In front of a packed crowd this weekend in Vail, Colorado Shauna Coxsey of Great Britain and Jongwon Chon of
South Korea topped the podium at the one-and-only IFSC Bouldering World Cup held on U.S. soil. For Coxsey, it was her third gold medal out of the five
competitions so far this season, and 10th of her career.
The world cup kicked off Friday during the GoPro Mountain Games with 59 men and 55 women in the qualifying round. The top 20 men and top 20 women moved on to semifinals held Saturday morning, and then the top six
from each moved on to finals later that afternoon.
In finals, Coxsey secured first place with three tops in only four attempts, ahead of Akiyo Noguchi and Miho Nonaka, both of Japan, who topped three problems
in six attempts and seven attempts, respectively. Coxsey also won the bouldering world cups in Nanjing, China and Meiringen, Switzerland earlier this season.
The U.S.’s own Alex Puccio took fourth place with three tops in 10 attempts. Katja Kadic of Slovenia came in fifth with one top in three attempts and Petra
Klingler of Switzerland rounded out finals in sixth with zero tops and one bonus hold in two attempts.
On the men’s side, Chon dominated the field by topping all four finals problems—the only competitor to do so—in nine attempts. Meichi Narasaki
of Japan took second with three tops in six attempts and Yoshiyuki Ogata of Japan rounded out the podium in third with three tops in 11 attempts. Russia’s
Alexey Rubtsov took fourth with two tops in five attempts, and the Japanses climbers Kokoro Fujii and Keita Watabe completed finals with two tops in
six attempts and one top in three attempts, respectively.
Team U.S.A. had a strong showing at the competition, and along with Puccio, Brooke Raboutou—for her first adult bouldering world cup—Megan
Mascarenas, Meagan Martin and Lily Canavan all made it into the final round. Raboutou placed ninth overall, Mascarenas placed 15th, and Martin and
Canavan came in a three-way tie with Leah Crane of Great Britian for 18th.
Also from the U.S., Carroll Chauncey and Kyra Condie placed 23rd, Grace McKeehan 25th, Maya Madere 27th, Victoria Perkins 35th, Sierra Blair-Coyle 37th,
Lisa Chulich and Alexis Mascarenas in three-way tie with Allison Vest of Canada for 39th, Molly Rennie 42nd, Lila Neahring 43rd, Julianna Jimreivat
47th, Natalia Grossman and Audrey Miller 49th, and Isabel Gifford and Zoe Steinberg 51st.
On the men’s side, Sean Bailey was the only U.S. male climber to qualify for semifinals. He placed 11th overall. Following Bailey, from the U.S., Michael
O’Rourke placed 23rd, Shawn Raboutou 25th, Nathaniel Coleman 29th, Kai Lightner 31st, Solomon Barth 33rd, Peter Dixon and Kyle Struthers came in a
three-way tie with Hannes Puman of Sweden for 35th, Ben Hanna 38th, Palmer Larsen 42nd, Brian Antheunisse 43rd, Brendan Mitchell and Charlie Schreiber
49th, Ryan Copeland and Andrew Lamb 53rd, Nicholas Picarella 55th, Tristan Chen 57th, and Joel Zerr 59th.
In Rock and Ice’s hangboard competition between semifinals and finals, Kestrel Pikiewict, of Louisville, Colorado topped the
leader board for hang time on the two-finger pocket with a time of 1 minute 46 seconds She also won last year. For the quarter-inch edge, Jake Kibbee,
from Parker, Colorado, took first with a hang time of 51.73 seconds. Pikiewict and Kibbee each earned a free year-long subscription to Rock and Ice.
With five of seven IFSC Bouldering World Cups in the books, Coxsey, who has claimed three victories so far, leads the overall bouldering world cup rankings with 435 points, ahead of Janja Garnbrete of Slovenia with 370 points and Nonaka with 297
points. For men, Watabe holds a slight lead in the overall rankings with 332 points, ahead of Chon with 326 points and Rubtsov with 307 points.