June has been a good month for Jonathan Siegrist. He climbed three 5.14d’s—Fat Camp,
Planet Garbage and Joe Kinder's newest creation The Club in the Wicked Cave of Rifle, Colorado—all in a two-week period.
J-Star has accumulated an impressive resume of Rifle’s hardest climbs in recent years, including the first ascent of Shadowboxing (5.14c/d),
but in an e-mail to Rock and Ice, he calls Planet Garbage “the hardest route I have climbed in Rifle.”
Siegrist was excited to leave the knee-pads on the ground for a change while he worked Planet Garbage, a steep route that was bolted and first climbed by Kinder in 2016. “Planet Garbage is very straight forward, no knee bars, pretty simple movement and hard
throughout,” Siegrist describes. “One of the main characteristics of the route is an accurate and tricky jump to a slot around the sixth bolt. Afterwards
you get a poor rest before the redpoint crux compressing these awesome feature holds on an incredible panel of rock.” Siegrist spent four days working
Before completing Planet Garbage Siegrist joined the Fat Camp (5.14d) sending spree. He clipped the chains June 12, not long after
Joe Kinder, for
the route’s fourth ascent. Siegrist believes the line is “without question one of the better routes in the Wicked Cave.”
Sam Elias followed up with another ascent of Fat Camp on Tuesday, June 27.
It was his first ascent of the grade and Fat Camp’s third ascent in this month alone.
Siegrist completed his Wicked Cave trifecta with The Club, another Kinder brainchild that links The Crew (5.14c) into Bad Girls Club (5.14c/d).
Kinder sent the linkup for its first ascent on June 27 and proposed 5.14d for the grade.
“The Club does the explosive pocket start of The Crew and then adds a difficult 10 foot transition section into Bad Girls Club,”
Siegrist writes. “You still get the bizarre and fickle finish of BGC but with a harder start.” Siegrist began working the route after Kinder's
FA. After his third try of the day, second day on, “I felt destroyed tying in but the conditions were okay and Joe [Kinder] was patient enough to give
me one last catch,” he writes. “I fought so incredibly hard the whole way, to the bitter end!
“I figured there was absolutely no chance of me sending but I just climbed like hell and made it happen. It’s always so fun to feel right on the edge for
so long. I was reduced to laughing from utter exhaustion when I lowered off.”
Watch Joe Kinder on the process of establishing Planet Garbage (5.14d):
Don't want to use Facebook, but still want to comment? We have you covered: