• Mason Earle Sends Squamish Testpiece Cobra Crack (5.14b)
  • Canadians Free New Line On Chacraraju Este in the Cordillera Blanca
  • Results from U.S.A. Climbing Sport and Speed Youth Nationals 2017
  • The First Road Trip, Ever - Editor's Note #244
  • Second Gold for Garnbret and a First for Bombardi at Chamonix World Cup
  • Ondra Establishes Move Hard (5.15b), Makes Progress on "Project Hard"
  • Katie Bono Sets Bar for Women’s Denali Speed Record
  • Garnbret and Desgranges Win First IFSC Lead World Cup of the Season
  • Job Opening: Rock and Ice Magazine Advertising Manager
  • Karakoram: Climbing Through the Kashmir Conflict, by Steve Swenson
  • Search Called Off for Missing Climbers on Nanga Parbat
  • AAC Announces 2017 Craggin' Classic Series
  • Adam Ondra's Training Video Series
  • Jonathan Siegrist Sends Three Rifle 5.14d’s in Two Weeks
  • Mike Foley Sends Dreamcatcher (5.14d) in Squamish (with send footage)
  • Seb Bouin Completes 20-Year-Old Open Project in France
  • Shauna Coxsey Secures Bouldering World Cup Title in Navi Mumbai
  • Chris Sharma Establishes Deep Water Solo “Dream Line” in France
  • Q&A: Joe Kinder on Fat Camp (5.14d), Rifle and Route Development
  • Alex Megos Puts Up Clash of the Titans (9a+/5.15a) in Austria
  • Pirmin Bertle Establishes South America’s Third 9a - Ruta de Cobre
  • Quinn Brett Makes Rare Free Ascent of Spaceshot in Zion
  • Alex Megos Repeats Companion of Change (5.15a) In Three Days
  • Coxsey and Chon Victorious at 2017 Vail World Cup
  • LIVE STREAM: IFSC Bouldering World Cup, Vail, Colorado - FINALS
  • LIVE STREAM: IFSC Bouldering World Cup, Vail, Colorado - SEMIFINALS
  • VIDEO: First Teaser of Alex Honnold’s El Cap Free Solo
  • Top Climbers At World Cup in Vail, Colorado This Weekend
  • Alex Honnold, Freerider and What It All Means for Climbing
  • Alex Honnold – El Cap Free Solo Interview
  • Big Deal – Alex Honnold Free Solos El Cap
  • Steve McClure, 46, Establishes the U.K.'s First 5.15b, Rainman
  • Jon Cardwell, Sasha DiGiulian and Marcus Garcia Free Yosemite’s Misty Wall
  • Editor's Note: Rock and Ice 243 (July 2017) - Trundling Along
  • European Climbing Trips With Rockbusters: Learn With the Pros
  • Christof Rauch Puts Up Three V15s In Two Weeks
  • Marek Raganowicz Solos Two New Routes on Baffin Island
  • VIDEO: Piedra Blanca - Charlotte Durif Explores Puerto Rico
  • Alex Megos Onsights Second 5.14d!
  • Kai Lightner and Brooke Raboutou Win 2017 Dominion Riverrock
  • The Hillary Step: Gone, Altered, or Simply Hidden?
  • The Push: Tommy Caldwell and Alex Honnold on the Fitz Traverse
  • VIDEO: Above the Fray - Beth Rodden on Climbing, Kidnap and Motherhood
  • Seventh Time’s the Charm? Kuriki Poised for Everest Summit
  • The New Adaptive Foot: A Step Forward For Adaptive Climbing
  • Hong and Cardwell Establish Stocking Stuffer (5.14d) in Rifle
  • Four Medals for Japan and Gold for Rubtsov and Garnbret in Tokyo
  • Interview: Alex Honnold and the Kenya Expedition
  • American Climbers Crank in Spain This Season
  • Q&A: Jon Cardwell Sends Papichulo (5.15a) in Spain
  • Stefano Ghisolfi Makes First Ascent of One Punch (9a+/5.15a), Italy
  • Coxsey and Watabe Take Gold at 2017 Nanjing World Cup
  • Yoga for Climbers - Video Series
  • Ueli Steck Killed on Nuptse
  • Ethan Pringle Makes FA of Everything Is Karate (5.14+) in Bishop
  • Jonathan Siegrist Interview - Three 5.15s in Three Weeks
  • VIDEO: Jonathan Siegrist and the Art of Projecting - Pachamama (5.15a)
  • Jonathan Siegrist Sends Three 5.15's in Three Weeks
  • Tuck Fest Hosts First Comp on NC's Permanent Deep Water Solo Wall
  • EVENT: Leif Whittaker Comes to Carbondale, Colorado
  • Top Podium Spots for Garnbret and Chon at Chongqing World Cup
  • Adam Ondra Destroys Italy’s Hardest Climbs
  • Klemen Bečan Jumps Aboard the La Rambla Send Train
  • 2017 Piolets d'Or Awarded to British and Russian Teams
  • Jimmy Webb and Dave Graham Send Ill Thrill (8B+/V14) in Magic Wood
  • Trango Recalls New Vergo Belay Device
  • Alizée Dufraisse Sends Estado Critico (5.14d), Siurana, Spain
  • Outrage and Red Cards Mark the First IFSC World Cup of the Season
  • My Old Man and the Mountain, by Leif Whittaker (book excerpt)
  • Alexander Rohr Makes Third Ascent of Chromosome Y (9a/5.14d)
  • Alex Megos Establishes Chile’s First 5.14d, Pasito a Pasito
  • Wild Country Recalls Friends - Sizes 2, 3 and 4
  • Learn to Write with John Long
  • Taylor McNeill Repeats Webb's Engine Bloc (V14), Makes V14 First Ascent
  • Margo Hayes – La Rambla (5.15a) Interview
  • Golden Age Climbing Legend Royal Robbins Dies, Aged 82
  • Ashima Shiraishi, Kai Lightner Win 2017 Sport National Championship
  • Hueco Tanks Re-Opens The Five Bimbos to Bouldering
  • Access Fund Announces 2016 Sharp End Awards
  • Nathan Kutcher Establishes Alaska’s Hardest Mixed Line
  • Michaela Kiersch Sends Two 5.14c’s in One Weekend
  • Jeff Lowe Honored with Piolet d’Or Lifetime Achievement Award
  • VIDEO: Stefano Ghisolfi Sends Jungle Boogie (9a+/5.15a)
  • Nina Williams Completes Bishop Highball Trio with Ambrosia (V11)
  • Q&A: Matty Hong Sends La Rambla (5.15a) in Spain
  • Michaela Kiersch Sends "Savage" Twenty Four Karats (5.14c), RRG
  • Fifteen-Year-Old Laura Rogora Sends Joe-Cita (5.14d)
  • Margo Hayes Sends La Rambla (5.15a)!
  • Weekend Whipper: Adam Ondra Whips Off Neanderthal (5.15b)
  • After 20 Years of Waiting "Dreamline" (WI 6+) Comes True
  • Toru Nakajima Makes Fourth Ascent of Lucid Dreaming (V15)
  • Outdoor Gear Innovator Jack Stephenson Passes Away at 84
  • A Trip Across the Pond: Shauna and Leah Train U.S. Style
  • Events at Valdez Ice Festival Canceled Due to Unsafe Conditions
  • 2017 USA Bouldering Youth National Championships Results
  • Puccio, Coleman Take 2017 Bouldering Open National Championship
  • Stefano Ghisolfi Sends Sharma's First Round, First Minute (5.15b)
  • Seb Bouin Repeats Novena Enmienda (5.14d/5.15a) in Spain
  • Roland Pauligk, the Creator of the RP, Dies at Age 79
  • Hardest Female First Ascent Ever for 15-Year Old Laura Rogora?
  • 22nd Annual Ouray Ice Festival Delivers the Stuff
  • Chris Snobeck Sends Saphira (M15-), America’s Hardest Mixed Climb
  • Top 10 Climbing Videos of 2016
  • VIDEO: Jimmy Webb's Next Level Project And A Nasty Finger Injury
  • Jimmy Webb Repeats Kintsugi (V15), Makes V13 FA in Yosemite
  • Training For Climbing with Eric Hörst - Video Series
  • Alexey Dengin, WoonSeon Shin Start Ice World Cup Season with Golds
  • Life After Competition: Mélissa Le Nevé Climbs Her First 8B (V13)
  • Roadworthy - Our Top Travel Gear
  • Good-bye, Indian Creek – Excerpt from Luke Mehall’s Latest Book
  • 2017 Mugs Stump Award Recipients Announced
  • Jongwon Chon Continues Sending Streak with Second New V15
  • Anna Liina Laitinen Sends Southern Smoke (5.14c), RRG
  • Top 10 Weekend Whippers of 2016
  • Ice Climbing World Cup Comes to Durango, Colorado
  • Jongwon Chon Triumphs at La Sportiva Legends Only 2016
  • Jorg Verhoeven - Dihedral Wall Interview
  • El Cap’s Heart Route (5.13b V10) Sees Second Free Ascent
  • Adam Ondra – Dawn Wall Interview
  • Adam Ondra Sends the Dawn Wall!
  • Final Push – Day 6: Ondra Sends Crux Pitches, Reaches Wino Tower
  • Barbara Zangerl, Jacopo Larcher Free El Cap's Zodiac (VI 5.13d)
  • Final Push – Day 4: Adam Ondra Hits First Hurdle
  • Jorg Verhoeven Makes Second Free Ascent of Dihedral Wall (VI 5.14a)
  • Final Push – Day 2: Ondra Completes Pitches 10 Through 13 on Dawn Wall
  • Robbie Phillips Frees El Cap’s 30-Pitch Pre-Muir (5.13d)
  • Michaela Kiersch Sends Golden Ticket (5.14c), Red River Gorge
  • VIDEO: David Lama Attempts Southeast Ridge of Annapurna III
  • Final Push: Adam Ondra Blasts Up First Nine Pitches of the Dawn Wall
  • Wildfire Engulfs Popular East Coast Climbing Area
  • Ashima Shiraishi, Margo Hayes Dominate at 2016 Youth World Championships
  • Dawn Wall Update: Adam Ondra Prepares for Final Push
  • Climbers We Lost in 2016
  • Vandal Destroys Holds on Climbs in Little Cottonwood Canyon, Utah
  • The Gunks' New Hardest Climb: Bro-Zone (5.14b)
  • INTERVIEW: Jernej Kruder On Climbing Sharma’s “King Line” Es Pontas
  • Jernej Kruder Repeats Sharma’s “King Line” Es Pontas
  • VIDEO: Adam Ondra Onsights C'est La Vie (8c+/5.14c)
  • Joe Kinder Puts Up Bone Tomahawk (5.14d/5.15a)
  • VIDEO: Adam Ondra's First Ascent of Robin Ud (5.15b)
  • Steph Davis, Unpacked: From Desert Towers to Indian Creek Craggin'
  • Dave Graham Nabs Second Ascent of Creature from the Black Lagoon (V16)
  • Michaela Kiersch Sends Lucifer (5.14c), Red River Gorge
  • Nalle Hukkataival Sends World’s First V17
  • Ghisolfi and Garnbret Seize Golds at World Cup in Xiamen, China
  • Neil Gresham, 45, Establishes Sabotage (8c+/5.14c), Malham Cove
  • Dawn Wall Update: Adam Ondra Reaches Pitch 15 and Dyno Crux
  • Adam Ondra Makes Quick Progress on the Dawn Wall
  • Winners of the Rock and Ice / Mammut Photo Contest 2016
  • Dave Graham Establishes Topaz (V15) in Wild Basin, RMNP, Colorado
  • Best Mountaineering Article 2016 Award Goes to Jeff Long
  • El Cap Sees 90-percent Decline In Attempts Following Tom Evans’ Retirement
  • Red Rock Canyon Under Threat From Major Housing Development
  • Magnus Midtbø Finally Sends Thor's Hammer (~5.15a)
  • Chris Sharma Makes Second Ascent of Joe Mama (5.15a)
  • VIDEO: Stefano Carnati Climbing Le Cadre Nouvelle (9a/5.14d), Céüse
  • Matty Hong Sends Shadowboxing (5.14d) and Kryptonite (5.14d)
  • Adam Ondra Climbs New 5.15b, Onsights 5.14c
  • Isabelle Faus Sends Her Second V14, The Wheel of Chaos
  • Stefano Ghisolfi Bags Third Ascent of Jungle Boogie (5.15a)
  • Life and Death in the Karakoram: Climbing Latok I and Ogre II
  • VIDEO: Tom Randall and Pete Whittaker's "Crucifix Project"
  • Wide Boyz Establish World’s Longest Roof Crack - Crown of Thorns (5.14a)
  • Mark Anderson Sends Shadowboxing (5.14d), Rifle, Colorado
  • VIDEO: Kilian Fischhuber Repeats Rätikon's Headless Children (8b/5.13d)
  • Chris Sharma Sends Five-Year 5.15 Deep Water Solo Project
  • Daniel Woods Climbs Black 90 Project at V16
  • Marc-André Leclerc Solos Patagonia’s Torre Egger in Winter
  • Matty Hong Repeats Fat Camp (5.14d) in Rifle, Colorado
  • Banff Mountain Book Competition Announces 2016 Finalists
  • Remembering Kim Schmitz, by John Roskelley
  • Ondra Seizes Lead Championship, American Women Climb High
  • Roger Schaeli Makes Second Ascent of La Vida es Silbar, Eiger North Face
  • Ines Papert Makes Rare Ascent of Alpine Testpiece Scaramouche (5.13b/c)
  • Rob Collister: Gletscherhorn North Face, Swiss Alps
  • 2016 IFSC Climbing World Championships
  • VIDEO: Ryuichi Murai Sends Three V15’s In A Month
  • Ashima Shiraishi on Horizon (V15), Sleepy Rave (V15) & “Young Guns”
  • VIDEO: Chris Sharma Trains With Patxi Usobiaga For ‘Le Blond’ Project
  • Boardman Tasker Award for Mountain Literature 2016 Shortlist
  • VIDEO: Dave Graham Sends Monkey Wedding (V15), Rocklands
  • Search Called Off for Missing Pair in Pakistan
  • (Updated) Weather to Break, Helicopters Expected to Fly in Search for Adamson and Dempster in Karakorum
  • ​Tommy Caldwell Free Climbs Mount Hooker in a Day Car to Car
  • Domen Skofic, Magdalena Röck Victorious at Imst Lead World Cup
  • Alex Megos Flashes The Path (5.14 R) On Gear, Talks Fightclub (5.15b)
  • Coxsey, Narasaki Overall 2016 Bouldering World Cup Champions
  • Dave Graham Sends Old Nemesis, Monkey Wedding (V15)
  • Alex Megos Establishes Fightclub – Canada’s First 5.15
  • Margo Hayes, 18, Breaks the “Boys Club” of Bad Girls Club (5.14d)
  • Jon Cardwell Finishes Fat Camp (5.14d), Rifle First Ascent
  • VIDEO: Man Attempts to Climb Trump Tower, Gets Nabbed
  • Jan Hojer, Michaela Kiersch Win 2016 Psicobloc Masters, Park City
  • Miranda Oakley Breaks Women’s Solo Speed Record on the Nose
  • REEL ROCK 11 Film Tour Lineup
  • Taking Back the Record - The Nose, Yosemite
  • Sean Bailey, 20, Clips Chains on Biographie/Realization (5.15a)
  • LIVE: 2016 Psicobloc Masters
  • Ashima Tops Second V15, Sleepy Rave, Grampians, Australia
  • Tokyo 2020 Olympics Officially Approves Climbing
  • A Win for Tennessee Climbing: Denny Cove Protected
  • Megos Crushes Canada: Seven 5.14b’s in Four Days
  • Toshi Takeuchi, Shawn Raboutou Smash Spray of Light (V15)
  • Drew Ruana, 16, Sends Le Cadre Nouvelle (5.14d) in Céüse
  • VIDEO: Melissa Le Nevé on Training, Comps and Outdoor Projects
  • Dave Di Paolo, Carderock Hammer Killer, Sentenced to 10 Years
  • Climbers Spook Gunman, Allowing Hostages to Flee on Independence Pass
  • Adam Ondra Cranks 5.15a FA in Three Attempts, Onsights Two 5.14c's
  • VIDEO: Alex Megos Sends Ben Moon’s Infamous Hubble (5.14c)
  • Nalle Hukkataival, Vadim Timonov Send Monkey Wedding (V15)
  • Gary Falk, IFMGA Guide, Falls to Death on Grand Teton
  • Janja Garnbret Dominates Lead World Cup, Again
  • Sherpas on Denali: First Nepalese Ascent of the West Rib
  • Mich Kemeter Frees 14-Pitch Voie Petit (8b 5.13d) on Grand Capucin
  • Paul Robinson - South African Boulder Fiend and Visionary
  • Nalle Hukkataival Repeats The Dragon’s Guardian (~V15), South Africa
  • Sean McColl, Janja Garnbret Take Gold At 2016 Villars World Cup
  • Margo Hayes, Brian Huang Win USA Climbing Junior Sport Nationals
  • Seb Bouin Repeats Thor’s Hammer (~5.15a), Suggests Downgrade
  • Inspect Your DMM Climbing Harness
  • Slovenians Victorious at First Lead World Cup of Season
  • LIVE: IFSC Lead Climbing World Cup - Chamonix, France 2016 - Finals
  • Ashima Shiraishi Injured in 45-Foot Ground Fall
  • Weekend Whipper: Climbers vs. Trees
  • Adam Ondra Establishes The Right of Passage (5.14d), Flatanger
  • Sachi Amma Repeats Thor's Hammer (9a+ 5.15a)
  • Paul Robinson Establishes The Dragon’s Guardian (V15), South Africa
  • Three El Cap Routes in a Day for Brad Gobright and Scott Bennett
  • Q&A: Martin Keller, 39, Sends 13-Year Project Highlander (8C V15)
  • American Alpine Club Announces 2016 Craggin’ Classics
  • The Battle for Indian Creek: Bears Ears, Rob Bishop & the Access Fund
  • Jon Cardwell's Biographie (9a+ 5.15a) Training and Projecting Advice
  • Dave Graham Makes Third Ascent of Delirium (V15)
  • Caroline Gleich, World-Famous Ski Mountaineer, is a Trad Addict
  • Virtual Reality: Watch Alex Honnold Solo the Needles in 360-degrees
  • Bouldering Access is Back in Catoctin Mountain Park, Maryland
  • Adam Ondra Makes First Ascent of 120 Degrees (5.15a), Flatanger
  • VIDEO: Sean Villanueva O'Driscoll Loves Pain and Dirty, Wet Cracks
  • Klemen Bečan Sends Papichulo (5.15a), Disappointed With Ease
  • Margo Hayes, 18, Sends The Crew (5.14c) in Rifle
  • President Obama Takes Over Yosemite
  • Rustam Gelmanov Makes Second Ascent of Hypnotized Minds (V16)
  • RIP Ken Wilson: Editor of Mountain Magazine, Rabble-Rouser
  • Lena Herrmann, 22, Climbs 5.14c in the Frankenjura
  • The Desert – Excerpt from “American Climber” by Luke Mehall
  • Heather Weidner Sends China Doll (5.14a R) on Gear
  • INTERVIEW: USA Boulderers On the IFSC World Cup in Vail
  • Stefano Carnati Sends Action Directe (5.14d), Frankenjura
  • RIP: Nicholas Clinch, 85, Led Only American First Ascent of an 8000er
  • Jonathan Siegrist's Mission to Rediscover Switzerland's World-Class Sport Climbing
  • Megan Mascarenas Dominates 2016 Vail Bouldering World Cup
  • LIVE: IFSC Bouldering World Cup, Vail 2016 (Finals)
  • LIVE: IFSC Bouldering World Cup, Vail 2016 (Semi-Finals)
  • Mélissa Le Nevé, a Top-Three Boulderer at Vail World Cup, Talks Rock
  • VIDEO: Pump Control and Efficient Resting for Climbing
  • Virginia Sandstone Crag Opened to Climbing
  • Bouldering World Cup Comes to Vail, Colorado This Weekend
  • Alex Megos Sends Hubble (8c+), Northern Lights (9a)
  • INTERVIEW: Melissa Arnot on Climbing Everest Without Supplemental Oxygen
  • Dai Koyamada Establishes Nehanna (V14/15) in Japan
  • VIDEO: Daniel Woods on the Elusive V17 Bouldering Grade
  • VIDEO: Adam Ondra Makes Second Ascent of Geocache (9a+/5.15a)
  • Q&A: Jon Cardwell On Climbing Biographie/Realization (9a+/5.15a)
  • Adam Ondra Repeats Geocache (9a+/5.15a) in a Day
  • American Melissa Arnot Claims Mount Everest Record
  • Jon Cardwell Sends Biographie/Realization (5.15a)
  • Coxsey, Chon Win Innsbruck Bouldering World Cup
  • Nathaniel Coleman, Brooke Raboutou Win 2016 Riverrock Boulder Bash
  • Zimmerman, Wright Establish New Route in Alaska’s St. Elias Range
  • Three Dead, Two Missing and Hundreds Summit on Everest
  • Robbie Phillips and Jacob Cook Free El Cap’s 30-Pitch El Niño
  • VIDEO: Chris Sharma On His Santa Linya Project
  • Climbing and Mentorship Come Together at City Rocks
  • Japan Triumphs at Bouldering World Cup in Navi Mumbai
  • Silvio Reffo Sends Goldrake (5.15a), Cornalba, Italy
  • The Wizard - Dean Potter
  • The Great Unknown - Graham Hunt
  • Dean Potter: What I've Learned
  • VIDEO: Alex Megos Sends First Round, First Minute (5.15b)
  • Ofer Blutrich Sends Mind Control - First Israeli to Climb 5.14c
  • INTERVIEW: Sonnie Trotter on Freeing "The Prow," 5.14a Multi-pitch
  • Valley Walls: A Memoir of Climbing and Living in Yosemite
  • Block and Wall: Buildering and Raving in Trento, Italy
  • VIDEO: Adam Ondra Attempts The World's First 5.15a Flash
  • VIDEO: The Width of Life - Tribute to Dave Pegg, Colorado Climbing Legend
  • William Bosi, 17, Climbs Rainshadow (5.14d), Malham Cove
  • Shauna Coxsey Triumphs, Tomoa Narasaki Shocks at Chongqing World Cup
  • Alex Lowe's and David Bridges' Remains Found on Shishapangma
  • Mark Cole, Longtime Leader in SE Climbing, Passes at 58
  • The Greatest Boulderer You’ve Never Heard Of: Ryuichi Murai's on Fire
  • Alex Lowe Charitable Foundation's Khumbu Climbing Center Almost Complete
  • Climbers Remember Nepal on Anniversary of Earthquake
  • Shauna Coxsey Dominates at Kazo World Cup
  • VIDEO: Epic Climber - Sharma, Ondra, Digiulian, and Marin in Spain
  • Adam Ondra On Climbing In The Olympics
  • Crack School with Tom Randall and Pete Whittaker (Video Series)
  • Mary Harlan: Heartiness, Suffering and The Zion Link-Up
  • Chuck Pratt's "The View From Dead Horse Point"
  • VIDEO: Ethan Pringle Sends Meadowlark Lemon (V14), Red Rock
  • Megan Mascarenas Places Third At Meiringen Bouldering World Cup
  • VIDEO: Slow Details - 2016 Meiringen Bouldering World Cup
  • Tyler Armstrong, 12, Denied Permit to Climb Mount Everest
  • Drew Ruana Sends Five 5.14s, Onsights Four 5.13s at the RRG
  • Ryuichi Murai Sends Hydrangea (V15), His Third V15 in a Month
  • Roland Hemetzberger Frees 22-Year-Old Project, Outro (5.15a)
  • Everest's Icefall Doctors Establish 2016 Route Through Khumbu Icefall
  • Black Diamond Recalls Camalots/Camalot Ultralights, Ascenders and Via Ferratas
  • Glen Dawson, Sierra Nevada Climbing Pioneer, Dies at 103
  • Jim Curran, British Climber and Author of "K2, The Story of The Savage Mountain," Dies
  • Stefano Ghisolfi Sends Adam Ondra’s Goldrake (5.15a)
  • Access Fund 2016 Climbing Preservation Grants
  • Michaela Kiersch Sends Pure Imagination (5.14c)
  • Five New Mixed Routes in Pilot Creek, Wyoming
  • Allen Frame Hill, Climber-Filmmaker, Found Dead at Home
  • VIDEO: Profondo Sud - Bouldering in Basilicata, Italy
  • Ryan Vachon Makes Second Ascent of Saphira (M15-)
  • Adam Ondra Claims 5.15a/b and 5.14d First Ascents in One Weekend
  • Brooke Raboutou, Dru Mack Send Southern Smoke (5.14c) at the RRG
  • Durango Climbers Linkup Six Fisher Towers in Under 24 Hours
  • Margo Hayes Sends Pure Imagination (5.14c) at the Red River Gorge
  • VIDEO: Edu Marin Discovers His Limits On Alex Huber's Sansara (8b+/5.14a)
  • Matty Hong Sends Papichulo (5.15a) in Oliana, Spain
  • 2016 Piolets d’Or Award Recipients Announced
  • Jon Cardwell Sends Shadow Boxing (5.14d), Flashes Waka Flocka (5.14b)
  • Interview: Klemen Bečan on the First Ascent of Joe Mama (5.15a)
  • Ashima Shiraishi Sends V15!
  • Stefano Carnati, 17, Makes Quick Work of Goldrake (5.15a) in Italy
  • Margo Hayes, Sean Bailey Win USA Sport Open National Championships
  • Big Crowds, Big Money: Climbers Bring $3.6 Million to the RRG
  • Ethan Pringle and La Reina Mora – The Full Story
  • V15 Send Train by Adam Ondra, Sachi Amma and Jongwon Chon
  • The Bold and Cold: A History of 25 Classic Climbs in the Canadian Rockies
  • The 2015 Sharp End Awards from the Access Fund
  • Alex Puccio on Grade Chasing and Climbing Media
  • Magnus Midtbø Makes Fourth Ascent of Seleccion Anal (9a+/5.15a)
  • Daniel Woods Sends Papichulo (5.15a) in Oliana, Spain
  • Legendary Climber Cal Swoager Dies at 66
  • Klemen Bečan Puts Up New 5.15a in Oliana, Spain
  • Mayan Smith-Gobat and Ines Papert Repeat Riders on the Storm, Patagonia
  • Interview: Marc-Andre Leclerc Solos Three Routes on Stanley Headwall
  • Gaetan Raymond Repeats World's Hardest Dry Tooling Route
  • Nacho Sánchez Sends Catalán Witness the Fitness (V15)
  • First Winter Ascent of Nanga Parbat
  • The Final Frontier – Rumney, NH Land Purchase
  • Scott Cosgrove, Bold Yosemite Climber, Passes Away
  • Highlights from the 2016 Ice Climbing World Youth Championship
  • Felipe Camargo Repeats Catalán Witness the Fitness (V15)
  • Adam Ondra Repeats Sharma’s Stoking the Fire (5.15b)
  • Lucie Hrozová Establishes Hardest Mixed Climb in U.S.
  • ​Snowball Fight on K2: Interview with Pasang Lhamu Sherpa Akita
  • Drew Ruana, 16, Establishes Smith Rock’s Hardest Route
  • Pasang Lhamu Sherpa Akita Named Nat Geo Adventurer of the Year
  • Jimmy Webb, Charles Albert Repeat Fontainebleau's “Hardest Climb”
  • Alex Puccio, Jakob Schubert Win 2016 Hueco Rock Rodeo
  • Climbing Anchors and the Evolution of the Quad
  • Tom Ballard Establishes World’s Hardest Dry Tooling Route
  • Tim Emmett, Klemen Preml Establish 260-Foot WI 12 at Helmcken Falls
  • Jimmy Webb Sends The Big Island (V15), Toupie Carnivore assis (V14)
  • Kevin Lopata Sends Jour de Chasse (V15), Fontainebleau (with video)
  • Rocasolano Makes Second Ascent of Catalan Witness the Fitness (V15)
  • VIDEO: Jonathan Siegrist Sends Power Inverter (5.15a)
  • Black Diamond Recalls Carabiners, Quickdraws and Slings
  • Jimmy Webb Sends l’Alchemiste In Three Tries – Downgrades
  • Brette Harrington Free Solos Austríaca in Patagonia
  • Nathaniel Coleman, Megan Mascarenas Win 2016 Bouldering Nationals
  • Marianne van der Steen Flashes Kamasutra (D13+)
  • Alex Honnold and Colin Haley Repeat the Torre Traverse in a Day
  • Barefoot Climber First to Repeat Original l’Alchimiste (~V14)
  • Alban Levier Cranks Third Ascent of l’Alchimiste (V15)
  • New Big Wall Route Established on El Diente North Face in Mexico
  • Epic Ascent of Yosemite’s Ephemeral Widow’s Tears
  • Colin Haley on Patagonian Solo Streak
  • VIDEO: Tom Randall Takes Down the Kraken (V13)
  • Ryan Vachon Dominates 2016 Ouray Mixed Climbing Competition
  • Guillaume Glairon-Mondet Puts Up New V16 in Fontainebleau
  • Two Experienced Climbers Killed in the Scottish Highlands
  • Jimmy Webb Sends The Game (V15)
  • Siegrist Sends Power Inverter (5.15a), Flashes Fish Eye (5.14b) in Spain
  • Jakob Schubert Sends La Planta de Shiva (5.15b) in Spain
  • VIDEO: Ueli Steck - Accepting Risk, Reward & Danger (Part 4)
  • Epic TV's Top Three Training Videos of 2015
  • Chris Sharma Sends Catalan Witness the Fitness (V-Hard) in Spain
  • Alex Megos Sends First Round, First Minute (5.15b) and More
  • A Tribute: Doug Walker, First AAC President Killed in Office
  • VIDEO: Barefoot French Climber Sends V12 Traverse
  • Two-time Mugs Stump Award Winner Ryan Jennings Dies on Ice Climb
  • Climbers We Lost in 2015
  • VIDEO: Tragedy Strikes Ueli Steck’s 82 Summit Project
  • Climbers Against Cancer Founder John Ellison Dies
  • VIDEO: Alexey Rubtsov Climbs Three Magic Wood V14s
  • Ashima Shiraishi Sends Phenomena (V14) in 30 Minutes
  • Kayah Gaydish Climbing Accident Update
  • VIDEO: Ueli Steck Runs Up 18 4,000 Meter Peaks In A Day
  • North Carolina Climber Dies in 50-foot Fall
  • Jimmy Webb Puts Up The Matriarch - The Southeast's First V15
  • The Classic Alpinist: Ueli Steck Climbs 82 Summits In 62 Days - Part 1
  • 2016 Mugs Stump Award Recipients
  • Access Fund Launches Second Batmobile
  • VIDEO: Road to the Top - World Cup Training with Alex Puccio
  • Lost in Mozambique – First Ascent on Mt. Namuli
  • The Top 7 Climbing Achievements of 2015
  • Sarah Hueniken First North American Woman to Send M14
  • Will Gadd Sends The Mustang P-51 (M14-) Second Go - with Video
  • Walton, Grainger Claim Another Triple Crown Victory
  • Founder of The North Face, Doug Tompkins Dies in Patagonia
  • VIDEO: Highlights from La Sportiva Legends Only 2015
  • Top 10 Weekend Whippers of 2015
  • Kai Lightner Storms Bishop, Hikes The Mandala (V12)
  • Southern Rampage – Jimmy Webb Establishes Four V14s
  • Janja Garnbret Dominates La Sportiva Legends Only
  • Alex Megos Hikes Demencia Senil (5.15a)
  • Pirmin Bertle Sends Meiose (~5.15b) in Switzerland
  • VIDEO: Martin Stráník Climbs Story of Two Worlds (V15)
  • Q&A: Ueli Steck On Reclaiming the Eiger Speed Record
  • GEAR OF THE YEAR 2015
  • Edu Marin Redpoints Chilam Balam (5.15b)
  • Martin Stráník Sends Story of Two Worlds (V15)
  • Top 10 Climbing Videos of 2015
  • A Step Too Far - The Tragic First Ascent of Kuksar
  • VIDEO: Ondra and Markovič Crush in Kranj
  • Ueli Steck Reclaims Eiger Speed Record
  • Kai Lightner Reflects on Competitions, Bouldering and the Future
  • Jonathan Siegrist Crushes Papichulo (5.15a)
  • Dani Andrada Sends Chilam Balam (5.15b)
  • Ondra, Markovič Crowned 2015 Lead World Champions
  • Crack Fix – How to Build a Home Crack Training System
  • VIDEO: Alex Puccio Storms the Buttermilks—Bishop, California
  • The K2 Summit Controversy
  • VIDEO: Adam Ondra and Stefano Ghisolfi Send New 5.15b's
  • The Locomotive: Roy McMurtrey – 87 and Still Climbing
  • Whittaker, McManus Claim 2nd Ascent of The Secret Passage, El Cap
  • Sherpa Makes Solo First Ascent on Himalayan Peak
  • Banff Mountain Book Competition Announces Winners
  • VIDEO: Climbing the 9th Grade (5.14d)
  • Hound Ears Competition Postponed Again
  • Jorg Verhoeven Sends Wheel of Life (V15)
  • Adam Ondra Establishes France's Hardest Route
  • Stefano Ghisolfi Establishes Italy’s First 5.15b
  • No Expectations: Joe Kinder Sends 6 5.14c's in Spain
  • Solar, Rock and Landmines—Alex Honnold Explores Angola
  • Spotlight: Megan Mascarenas - The Logician
  • Big Wall Soloing on Bugs
  • Triple Crown Bouldering Series Kicks Off at Stone Fort
  • Niky Ceria Repeats Voyager Sit (V14)
  • Alpine Warriors - History of Alpinists in Yugoslavia
  • VIDEO: Joe Kinder and Patxi Usobiaga Explore Cala Gonone, Italy
  • Sonnie Trotter Fires Blue Jeans Direct (5.14a), Mount Yamnuska, Canada
  • Megos Cruises the Red River Gorge
  • Logan Barber Frees Honeycomb Dome (5.13d) in China
  • Ondra, Kim Sweep Lead World Cup in Wujiang, China
  • How to Build a Home Climbing Wall
  • Winners of the 8th Annual Rock and Ice / Mammut Photo Contest
  • Alex Megos Sweeps the New River Gorge
  • $10,000 Granted for Anchor Replacement Across U.S.
  • Three Sherpas Complete Three Himalayan First Ascents in Three Days
  • Ashima Shiraishi Sends Nuclear War (V14), New York
  • Dan Mirsky Sends The Crew (5.14c) – Rifle, Colorado
  • Marc-André Leclerc Free Solos Aguja Standhardt in Patagonia
  • David Lama Establishes Lebanon's Hardest Route
  • Dave Graham Sends Thor's Hammer
  • Q&A: The Willpower of Mar Álvarez
  • Q&A: Ethan Pringle on Thor's Hammer (5.15a)
  • Tufas in Paradise – Angy Eiter Puts Up New 5.14s in Greece
  • Yosemite Facelift - Finding Beauty Behind the Trash
  • Novice Climbers Could Be Banned from Everest to “Maintain the Glory”
  • Daniel Woods Smashes Thor's Hammer (5.15a)
  • Sport Climbing Makes Shortlist for 2020 Tokyo Olympics
  • Kim, Škofic Climb the Podium in Puurs
  • Trail Runner Now Hiring
  • Schaeli, Jasper, Gietl Establish Odyssee (5.13c) on the Eiger
  • VIDEO: Brette Harrington - Free Solo of Chiaro di Luna (5.11a)
  • Banff Mountain Book Competition Announces 2015 Finalists
  • A Youth Wasted Climbing
  • Toru Nakajima Sends Paint It Black (V15) in RMNP
  • Q&A: Jesse Grupper – Youth World Championships Silver Medalist
  • Everest ’96 – Unheard Voices of the 1996 Disaster
  • Paige Claassen Sends The Bleeding, Discusses First Female Ascents
  • Nalle Hukkataival Puts Up New V15 – The Stepping Stone
  • Sachi Amma Redpoints Jungle Boogie, 5.15a
  • Nina Caprez and Barbara Zangerl Redpoint 1,400-foot Rätikon 5.14
  • Bouldering Bub - Isaac Caldiero
  • REEL ROCK 10 - Interview with Filmmaker Peter Mortimer
  • Jonathan Siegrist Establishes New 5.14+ in the Fins
  • IMPORTANT SAFETY NOTICE: DMM Carabiner Recall
  • Climber Dies in Fall on Crestone Needle, CO
  • Alex Honnold Talks REEL ROCK 10
  • Marc-André Leclerc on Patagonian Climbing
  • The Dawn of Urban Big Wall Speed Climbing
  • She Goes! - Half Dome’s Regular Route Climbed After Rockfall
  • Spotlight: Alexander Ruchkin - Russian Locomotive
  • Climbing Beta: Rocktown, Georgia
  • Tex Bossier, Golden Age Climber, Dies in France
  • Ondra Pioneers Four FA's in Norway
  • Alpinists Killed Attempting New Route in Cordillera Blanca, Peru
  • Shiraishi, Garnbret Win Again at Arco Youth World Championships
  • Climbing Beta: El Potrero Chico, Mexico
  • Q&A: Sasha DiGiulian on Climbing the Eiger
  • Q&A: Carlo Traversi on Climbing the Eiger
  • Americans Claim Two Karakoram First Ascents
  • VIDEO: How To Climb 5.14d and Hold A Job
  • Video Spotlight
    Northern Soul - Ice climbing in Québec
    Northern Soul - Ice climbing in Québec
    Whipper of the Month
    Weekend Whipper: Roadside Attraction Trad Fall
    Weekend Whipper: Roadside Attraction Trad Fall
     



    Jorg Verhoeven - Dihedral Wall Interview

    29-Nov-2016
    By

    Just before Adam Ondra made history with his second free ascent of the Dawn Wall last week, the Dutch climber Jorg Verhoeven made history of his own by claiming the second free ascent of Dihedral Wall, one of the hardest free routes on El Capitan. First freed by big wall aficionado Tommy Caldwell in 2004, the line remained unclimbed for 12 years, until Verhoeven's efforts this season. Verhoeven has journeyed to Yosemite before and already climbed several other free routes on the Valley's biggest wall: Freerider, El Niño and the Nose. Aside from his big wall exploits, he is also an accomplished sport climber and boulderer, having dispatched routes graded 5.14d and boulders graded V15.

    After his ascent of Dihedral Wall, Rock and Ice asked Verhoeven about the climb and what's next for him. 

     

    Q&A with Jorg Verhoeven

    How did decide on Dihedral Wall as your objective?

    Going to Yosemite, I always feel like hopping right on El Cap, since a wall like that is not to be found anywhere else. After climbing El Niño, Freerider and the Nose in previous years, my motivation for El Cap free climbing had only increased so luckily there's plenty of routes to choose from.

    Original plans were Dawn Wall, but due to a finger injury that lasted from May to September I didn't feel like they would be up for the task. I set the sights on the two hardest routes apart from the Dawn Wall—Magic Mushroom and Dihedral—with Lurking Fear as a backup if my fingers proved too bothersome (slab climbing is always a better option for the fingers). Since my wife Katha Saurwein would join me this trip and we wanted to support each other's’ projects, Dihedral, with most of the hard climbing in the bottom half, seemed to be the better choice. On Magic Mushroom, as well as the Dawn Wall, you need a partner that wants to try it as well, or a paid team.

     

    Did you do any specific training for the climb before coming to the Valley?

    Yeah, I chilled really hard on Mallorcan beaches and did some deep water soloing! No, due to my injury I didn't climb for nearly two months, and tried to get back to the fitness level I had at the start of the spring comp season. It feels like Yosemite needs a general fitness (for hauling, jumaring, gear shuttling, etc.) plus experience on its style of climbing. I had the latter from the previous years, the first I kind of lacked this time around though...

     

    Did you chat at all with Tommy Caldwell beforehand?

    No, but his in-depth trip report online he described pretty well how he got completely wrecked climbing it. I knew what I was in for, and yes, got completely wrecked as well.

     

     

    A photo posted by jorg verhoeven (@jorgverhoeven) on

     

    How much work did you put into the climb in total (days, burns on crux pitches, etc.)?

    I had two-and-a-half weeks for preparation, which translates to something like seven days working the shit out of as many moves and pitches as possible. Starting the first push, I had freed only one pitch (the 5.11), and starting the second push, I hadn't freed any of the hard ones or even seen two of the 13c's. During push two I basically took falls everywhere, mostly on the 13c above our camp (which took four tries), two falls on the crux pitch (pitch 6, 5.14a) before sending, three tries on the 13d slab (a hold broke on one attempt), and many tries on the Yoyo 13c boulder pitch above the slimy pitch. Overall I worked the most on the crux pitch, which basically took me like four days of work and tries.

     

    So you hadn’t sent the crux pitch before your full redpoint pushes?

    I was a a thousand leagues away from it...

     

    What was the climbing on the crux pitches like?

    Slippery and slabby. The 14a starts off slightly overhanging and is powerful on the arms, but the crux is on a full slab right above. In general pitches are long (30-40m) and especially sustained. Climbing walls like this, you start loving the bouldery pitches, since they can be tried often and don't suck up so much energy.

    A 40-meter techy dihedral like the “Black Arch” (pitch 8), with hard climbing until the end, is your typical horror scenario. This pitch is the only one where I do not agree with Tommy's grade (13c), since i found it harder than “The Great Roof” (13d) on the Nose, which has similar climbing. Oh and the 13b slimy pitch is more like 12d, I thought. For the rest of the pitches the grades might have felt off or awkward to me, but since it was just a feeling in the moment and with a particular set of conditions, and so many factors come into play, I will not change any of these pitches' grades.

     

    What’s it like getting to climb major routes like this with your wife Katha Saurwein?

    In a word, freaking awesome! First of all it's always nicer (at least to me) to climb walls with company (Freerider rope-solo in 2014 just felt super lonely), but with your loved one it gets even better. Without her support I would have whined and cried like a baby even more, and would probably have epic-ed and gone down to the Valley for a pizza and a stiff drink.

     

    Katha crushed her project, Final Frontier (5.13b), on Fifi Buttress. Do you know if she has any plans for bigger El Cap routes in the future? Freerider? Golden Gate? Maybe even the Nose?

    Haha, she wasn't even too keen on going to the Valley in the first place. It took a bit for her to find a route she liked climbing on, but then all hell broke loose! She started running up these 12+ dihedrals like nothing and kind of got over her fear of heights. She even enjoyed staying on El Cap, where at the start of the trip she felt like a 1,000 feet above the deck she was dying!

    I hope she won't read this, but honestly: Yes, I think she will go for another route on El Cap at some point. She certainly has the ability to do cool stuff up there.

     

    What was climbing Dihedral Wall like compared to climbing the Nose in 2014?

    [Free] climbing the Nose felt like a walk in the park compared to [free] climbing Dihedral. I should have known that a 25-year-old Tommy Caldwell working for two months on a route and then still having a tough time sending it meant that the route was going to be a real challenge. It nearly destroyed me. Topping out I kept thinking of that Warren Harding quote about El Cap being in better state than he was. My hands and feet were swollen for a week and it took me 10 days to start appreciating the fact that I had climbed Dihedral—before that I was more like a grumpy old man.

     

     

    A photo posted by jorg verhoeven (@jorgverhoeven) on

     

    Did you have doubts at any point about whether you’d actually be able to do it?

    On the first push, I knew that the odds of me succeeding on the crux pitch were probably 50/50. I failed. Push two went better, but due to a time limit (we were flying out in six days) I lost confidence at day three, when I failed doing pitches 9 and 10. After that it was a nerve-wrecking game of time, energy, skin and water.

     

    There’s only one route harder than Dihedral and the Nose left for you on El Cap, if I’m not mistaken. And Mr. Ondra just nabbed the second ascent. Do you think you might try the Dawn Wall sometime in the next couple years?

    Yes and no.

    No: Because Dihedral taught me that doing a route that destroys you that bad is not fun. There are many more “moderate” routes like El Corazon, Salathe, Lurking Fear, Muir, Zodiac, etc., that I haven't done yet and would most likely be a much nicer experience and a less tough ordeal for my mental and physical well-being, so to speak...

    Yes: Because eventually psych always overtakes reason, and it'll drag me up there.

     

    Do you you have any interest in linking free El Cap routes in a day like Tommy Caldwell did? 

    Uggh, no that just sounds horrible. I have great respect for people linking stuff, but I cannot imagine how horribly Tommy’s feet must have hurt after doing two free routes on El Cap in a day.

     

    What’s next for you and Katha?

    Rest and time at home! We travelled so much this year that we need some time to relax. Winter is primarily our time to train for the next season, although I'm starting to shift towards less comp action and more time for other projects.

     

    Anything else you’d like to share about the climb, your Yosemite trip, or anything else?

    It was fun to see so much free climbing action in Yosemite this year. Tommy has been saying it for a decade and I mentioned it in the film Climbing the Nose, but it seems like people are finally getting the message that free climbing El Cap is such a rewarding and rich experience. It seems like there is a shift in this direction toward free climbing El Cap, which of course will bring problems as well (like the amount of fixed lines this year, or the insane traffic on Freerider) but also brings a lot of joy to climbers around the world doing it.

     

    Related Articles:

    Jorg Verhoeven Makes Second Free Ascent of Dihedral Wall (VI 5.14a)

    Adam Ondra Sends the Dawn Wall!

    El Cap's Heart Route (5.13b V10) Sees Second Free Ascent

    Barbara Zangerl, Jacopo Larcher Free El Cap's Zodiac (VI 5.13d)

    Robbie Phillips Frees El Cap’s 30-Pitch Pre-Muir (5.13d)

    Reader's Commentary:

    Don't want to use Facebook, but still want to comment? We have you covered:

    Add Your Comments to this article:

    Hello