• Shiraishi, Garnbret Win Again at Arco Youth World Championships
  • Climbing Beta: El Potrero Chico, Mexico
  • Q&A: Sasha DiGiulian on Climbing the Eiger
  • Q&A: Carlo Traversi on Climbing the Eiger
  • Americans Claim Two Karakoram First Ascents
  • VIDEO: How To Climb 5.14d and Hold A Job
  • Scottish Team Climbs Paciencia on the Eiger North Face
  • USA Girls Rise Up in Arco's IFSC Bouldering Youth and Junior World Championships
  • Rocklands – How Far Are You
  • Seb Bouin Claims First Ascent in Verdon Gorge
  • Jakob Schubert Takes Third Ascent of Thor’s Hammer (5.15a)
  • Dave Graham Repeats Spray of Light (V15)
  • Sasha DiGiulian and Carlo Traversi Climb the Eiger North Face
  • VIDEO: Jonathan Siegrist Climbs La Rambla (5.15a)
  • Stormed Out – Sasha DiGiulian and Carlo Traversi Bail on Paciencia
  • Roskelleys Climb NE Buttress of Mount Slesse
  • Alex Megos Repeats Thor’s Hammer (5.15a), Flatanger Cave
  • Isabelle Faus Sends Amandla (V14)
  • Markovič, Supper Claim Gold in Stavanger
  • First Ascent of the Southwest Buttress of Mt. Waddington, B.C.
  • Andy Kirkpatrick Solos Sea of Dreams on El Cap
  • How To Make Your Own Clip Stick - Tips from Jonathan Siegrist
  • Sasha DiGiulian, Carlo Traversi Go for Eiger Summit Push Tomorrow
  • Jonathan Hörst, 12, Sends Two 5.14’s
  • Best New Climbing Gear of 2016
  • Stanhope, Segal Free Bugaboos' Tom Egan Memorial Route at 5.14
  • Shauna Coxsey, Alexey Rubtsov Win Final Bouldering WC of the Year
  • Chon, Noguchi Crowned 2015 Bouldering World Cup Champions
  • Jon Krakauer: Climbing Everest was the Biggest Mistake I've Ever Made
  • 82 and Done – Ueli Steck Completes Alps Mission in 61 Days
  • Lightning Halts Psicobloc, Jimmy Webb and Charlotte Durif Take Gold
  • Potrero Chico First Ascentionist “Magic” Ed Wright Dies
  • Staying Alive in the Death Sport Capital of the World
  • Mina Markovič, Romain Desgranges Win Lead World Cup, Imst, Austria
  • Jon Cardwell Snags Second Ascent of Shadowboxing (5.14d), Rifle
  • Eight Day Solo First Ascent of Bigwall Route on Mt. Huashan, China
  • Robert Pizem – Father First, Climber Second
  • Czech Up - Adam Ondra Climbs A Sparsely Bolted Sandstone Arête
  • British Team Makes First Ascent of The Mirror Wall, Greenland
  • Keep 'er Wild - Leave No Trace Tips for Rock Climbers
  • New Route and Deaths on Annapurna - World's Deadliest Mountain
  • Julianne Wurm and Jan Hojer On Sending Spree in Silvretta, Austria
  • Adam Ondra Claims Second Ascent of Sharma’s Three Degrees of Separation (5.14d), Céüse
  • Homestead: Access Fund Saves 360 Acres of Climbing Access in Arizona
  • MERU: Highly Anticipated Climbing Film Premieres August 14th
  • 32-Year-Old Dutch Mountaineer Dies in Fall on Mount Blanc Massif
  • Margo Hayes, 17, Sends Two Rifle 5.14s in One Day
  • Jesse Huey, Brette Harrington Claim Second and Third Free Ascents of Edge of Pan (5.13 R), Squamish
  • Vikki Weldon Makes Fourth Free Ascent of Adder Crack (5.13 R)
  • VIDEO: Stefano Ghisolfi Repeats Chris Sharma's Demencia Senil (5.15a)
  • Hukkataival, Woods Claim First and Second Ascents of Get Railed (V14)
  • REEL ROCK 10 Film Tour Lineup
  • Jain Kim, Gautier Supper Win Gold in Briançon, France
  • Karoline Sinnhuber Sends First V13, Charity Boulder, Silvretta
  • VIDEO: Sicilian Deep Water Soloing
  • Juliane Wurm Ditches Comp Climbing for Real Rocks
  • Rock Climbing Saved My Life: A Veteran’s Struggle with PTSD
  • Conrad Anker, David Lama Put Up New Route on Temple of Sinewava
  • Barbara Zangerl Sends Bellavista (5.14a, 500m)
  • Mina Markovič, Ramón Julián Puigblanque Win Lead World Cup, Chamonix, France
  • Daniel Woods V15 FA Spray of Light, Rocklands
  • Seb Bouin Establishes 5.15a at Pic Saint-Loup
  • UK/US Expedition Summits Unclimbed Himalayan Peak
  • Ueli Steck Reaches Halfway Point on 82 Summits Project
  • Dave Graham Claims FA of Hatchet Prow (V14), Rocklands
  • MOVES - How Many Climbs Can You Identify From Just One Move?
  • Jimmy Webb Makes Second Ascent of Livin Large (V15), Rocklands
  • Belay Ledge Disappears on Half Dome’s Regular Route
  • Giorgia Tesio, 14, Makes First Female Ascent of Chay (5.13d)
  • Dimitri Vogt, 18, Sends Cabane au Canada (5.14d)
  • Time-Lapse: Lightning Triggers Multiple Wildfires in Zion
  • Anthony Johnson Onsights Jihad - Third Ascent of “Terrifying” Vedauwoo Offwidth
  • Nacho Sánchez Sends Monkey Wedding (V15)—Rocklands
  • Climbing Access Victory – Michigan’s AAA Walls Re-Opened
  • ​First World Cup Victory for Petra Klingler - Haiyang, China
  • Grampians: Best Bouldering in the World or Overrated?
  • Stefano Ghisolfi Sends Sharma’s Biographie/Realization (5.15a)
  • Sean McColl, Akiyo Noguchi Win Bouldering World Cup, Chongqing, China
  • Ueli Steck, Michi Wohlleben: Eighty-two Summits in 80 days
  • The Beatnik of the Alps: A tale of FA's, Rescues, Love, and Suicide
  • Untouched Rock: Angie Eiter, Bernie Ruech Develop New Crag in Greece
  • Massive Rockfall in Yosemite's Tenaya Canyon
  • Hazel Findlay on Positivity, Being Bold and Staying Focused
  • Cameron Hörst, 14, Sends First 5.14b, Raubritter
  • Josh Ibbertson, 11, Sends Raindogs (5.13b)
  • Jonathan Siegrist: 5.14 First Ascent in the Flatirons, Colorado
  • Sasha DiGiulian Makes First Female Ascent of La Coccinelle Trump L'oeil (5.14), Verdon Gorge
  • Chris Sharma Free-Climbs California’s Redwoods
  • Stefano Ghisolfi Sends Hell'Avaro (5.14c/d)
  • For Sale: 10 Acres at Donner Summit
  • Roland Hemetzberger Repeats Ondra’s Fugu (5.14d)
  • Iranian Team Climbs First Ascent on Karambony Tower, Madagascar
  • Megan Mascarenas, Nathaniel Coleman on the Podium in Vail
  • Inside the Mind of Ethan Pringle – Climbing Jumbo Love (5.15b)
  • Sachi Amma - Second and Last Ascent of Tinipi (5.15a), Borneo Earthquake
  • Adam Ondra Flashes Jade (V14), Don’t Get Too Greedy (V13) after Vail WC
  • Emily Harrington Sends Golden Gate (5.13) on El Capitan
  • VIDEO: Hazel Findlay - Giving El Cap's Pre-Muir (5.13+) a Try
  • GoPro Mountain Games Hosts Bouldering World Cup
  • Austrian Alpinists Summit Unclimbed Mt. Reaper in Alaska.
  • Adam Ondra Sends White Noise (V14/15), Flashes Bear Toss (V13)
  • Mateusz Haladaj Sends Sharma’s Papichulo (9a+/5.15a)
  • Anna Stöhr and Alban Levier Take Gold in Toronto
  • Twenty-two Year Old Dies in Rappelling Accident on El Cap
  • Ramp Up Your Training with Fun
  • IFSC World Cup in Toronto May 30-31
  • Sébastian Bouin Claims Third Ascent of Chilam Balam (5.15b), Spain
  • Bouldering Competition to be Held in Memory of Tito Traversa
  • VIDEO: Tommy Caldwell Cruises Ice-Covered Crack
  • Vasya Vorotnikov, Claire Bresnan Claim Bouldering Titles at Riverrock
  • Alex Puccio on Training, Bodyweight and Crowdfunding
  • Siegrist Sends Le Cadre Nouvelle (5.14d)–“Best climbing trip of my life”
  • Kev Shields – High Solace: Demons, Depression and Solo Climbing
  • VIDEO: Raw Power vs Flawless Technique
  • Germans Win Big at European Bouldering Championships
  • Ethan Pringle Sends Jumbo Love (5.15b) – Hardest Sport Climb in America
  • Dean Potter Killed in Wingsuit Accident in Yosemite
  • Solo Climber Found Dead on Denali
  • VIDEO: Gord McArthur - The Man Behind the Machine
  • Training Beta: How to Warm Up For Route Climbing
  • Logan Barber Frees The Firewall (5.13d)—Hardest Trad Line in China
  • Sherpa Future Fund and Account of the April 25 Everest Avalanche
  • A Second Earthquake and A Shorter Everest
  • Dai Koyamada Sends Three-Year “Super Project”
  • Chris Sharma Onsights Snuff Movies (8c/5.14b), Catalonia, Spain
  • Calling All Non-Sponsored Climbers
  • 2015 Ice Climbing Trip Report: Montana, Wyoming and Norway
  • Melloblocco 2015: World's Largest International Bouldering Festival
  • Dean Potter Sets New Half Dome FKT
  • Indian Creek, Cedar Mesa Under Threat by Utah Legislature
  • Nepal Disaster Relief: How You Can Help
  • Dani Arnold Breaks Ueli Steck’s Speed Record on the Matterhorn
  • Big Men: 5.15a First Ascent by Iker Pou, Spain
  • A Summitless Year for Everest? North Side Closed, Retreat from the South
  • Training Beta: How to Make Yourself Try Hard
  • Q&A: Angie Scarth-Johnson, 10, On Tijuanita (5.14a)
  • Mina Leslie-Wujastyk, Mecca Extension (5.14b) and What it Means to be a Climber
  • Earthquake, Avalanche, 18 Dead on Everest, Over 4,600 in Nepal
  • VIDEO: Chris Sharma Sends El Bon Combat (5.15b/c)
  • Angie Scarth-Johnson, 10, Climbs Her First 5.14b
  • VIDEO: Yvon Chouinard on the Today Show
  • VIDEO: Lynn Hill, Real Life Superhero
  • Sufferfest: Alex Honnold and Cedar Wright on Nat Geo Live
  • Angy Eiter Sends Era Vella (5.14d), Spain
  • VIDEO: Sasha DiGiulian on the Deep Bond Between Climbing Partners
  • Pamela Pack Establishes 5.13 Offwidth, American Horror Story
  • Geyikbayiri Saved: Climbers Stop Mining Operation at Turkey’s Largest Crag
  • Jacopo Larcher Gets Second Ascent of Helmutant (5.14d), Italy (With Video)
  • Carlo Traversi Bags Bad Girls Club (5.14d), Rifle, Colorado
  • Training Beta: Mark and Mike Anderson’s Guide to Hangboard Training
  • Puccio Sends V10, V11 and V12 in One Day
  • Daniel Woods, Jon Cardwell Send Kryptonite (5.14d)
  • Plane Crash Kills Climber Andy Tyson
  • Jakob Schubert Gets Second Ascent of Bügeleisen Sit, Austria’s First V15
  • 2015 Piolets d’Or Awards
  • Rub it Raw: Mike Anderson, Bryan Bird Free Five-Pitch 5.13 in Zion
  • Vikki Weldon Sends Los Humildes pa Casa (5.14a), Oliana, Spain
  • Q&A: Sonnie Trotter On Estado Critico (5.14d)
  • Alex Megos Downunder
  • Roads, Bridges Washed Out At Red River Gorge
  • Kai Lightner Sends His First 5.14d, Era Vella, Spain
  • Sonnie Trotter Sends Estado Critico (5.14d), Siurana, Spain
  • Ramón Julián Puigblanque: Two 5.14d's and Two 5.15a's in Four Days
  • Matt Segal Bags 2nd Ascent of Carbondale Short Bus (5.14-)
  • VIDEO: Dave MacLeod – Project Fear
  • VIDEO: Training with Adam Ondra
  • Dean Potter: When Dogs Fly - Wingsuit Flying with Whisper
  • Q&A: Jesse Grupper, 2015 SCS National Championship Runner-Up
  • Kai Lightner, Delaney Miller Win 2015 SCS National Championships
  • Annapurna Claims Two More Lives
  • ​Carlo Traversi Sends Kryptonite (5.14d)
  • Roland Wagner: A 21-Year Dream to Climb 5.14d (With Video)
  • Ashima Ticks Another Project in Spain
  • Jonathan Siegrist Sends La Rambla (5.15a)
  • Alex Megos: Japan Sendathon
  • VIDEO: Ontario Climbing
  • Ethan Pringle Sends La Reina Mora (5.14d)
  • Ashima Shiraishi May Be First Female to Climb 5.15
  • Golden Moment: Bill Ramsey Sends 5.14b at 54
  • VIDEO: Alex Megos on Lucid Dreaming (V15)
  • Mason Earle Establishes New 5.14 Crack Climb
  • Wildfire Tears Through Cape Town Crags
  • Siberian Express: New 5.14c from Mark Anderson
  • Lead Singer of The Rebel Spell Dies in Climbing Accident
  • Ryan Vachon and Sarah Hueniken Crush Vail’s Hardest Mixed Lines
  • Caldwell, Honnold, Practice Your Speeches for the 2015 Piolets d’Or
  • Chris Sharma Sends El Bon Combat (5.15b/c)
  • Magic Woods
  • Alex Johnson: FA of The Swoop (V10), with Video
  • VIDEO: Teton Gravity: The Himalayas from 20,000 ft.
  • First Free-Solo of Chiaro di Luna (5.11a), Fitz Roy Massif, Patagonia
  • Q&A: Ondra Sends Necessary Evil, Says Failures Are Reasons to Train
  • Pakistan to Train High-Altitude Police Unit to Protect Climbers
  • Marc-André Leclerc Solos Corkscrew on Cerro Torre
  • New Winter Route on the Troll Wall, Romsdal, Norway
  • New Paltz Climbing Gym Burns Down
  • Hueco Tanks Public Use Plan Under Review
  • Kwon YoungHye Sends World's Hardest Mixed-Climbs In A Season
  • Everest: Reroute Through Khumbu Icefall for the 2015 Climbing Season
  • Sachi Amma Sends 5.15a on 4th Attempt, in Santa Linya, Spain
  • Royal Canadian Air Force Sgt. Missing After Ice Climbing Accident
  • Griffin Whiteside Sends The Big Island (V15) in Fontainebleau
  • Puccio and Woods Both Claim 9th ABS National Title
  • Colin Haley and Marc-André Leclerc Put Up New Routes in Patagonia
  • Sneak Peek: The Dawn Wall Issue Is On The Way!
  • Papert Claims Second Ascent of M12 Scarefest
  • Messner Capped the Hour at the AAC’s 2015 Annual Benefit Dinner
  • Sachi Amma Sends Sharma's Fight or Flight (5.15b) in Oliana, Spain
  • Climbing Guide Dies in Fall
  • VIDEO: Will Gadd Sends Niagara Falls
  • Will Gadd Climbs a Frozen Niagara Falls
  • SlabMaster: Klemen Bečan Onsights 5.14c in Spain (With Video)
  • The Quinfecta: Classic San Juan Colorado Ice Climb Link-up
  • Alex Megos Sends Lucid Dreaming (V15)
  • Nick Duttle Sends 5.14d Project in New Mexico
  • Nalle Hukkataival Cranks First Ascent of Kintsugi (V15)
  • Tommy Caldwell and Kevin Jorgeson Appear on The Ellen DeGeneres Show
  • The Grand Experience: Superbowl XLIX to Host Rock Climbing Wall
  • Oregon Climber Killed in Fall
  • Climbing Film "Meru" Makes it into the Sundance Film Festival
  • Q&A: Jason Kehl Proves that Hueco Tanks Is Far From Climbed Out
  • Daniel Woods Sends The Process - Possible V16
  • Acclaimed Cellist Ben Sollee Raises Money for Red River Gorge
  • Robert Craig, K2 Survivor, Author and Educator, Dies
  • The Film "Valley Uprising" is Now Available Here
  • The Dawn Wall Goes Down!
  • Guidebook Worth its Weight in Gold, Selling for $1,000
  • Dawn Wall Update: Jorgeson Catches Caldwell, Final Push Begins
  • Dawn Wall Update: Jorgeson Sends Dyno, Two Pitches Away from Wino Tower
  • Gadd Wins Ouray, Again
  • Dawn Wall Update: Jorgeson Sends Pitch 15!
  • Dawn Wall Update: Caldwell Sends Last 5.14 Pitch!
  • Sasha DiGiulian to Compete in Ouray Ice Fest
  • Sam Elias Reports on New Routes in Lebanon
  • Dawn Wall Update: Caldwell Sends Pitch 16!
  • Dawn Wall Update: Caldwell and Jorgeson Both Send Crux Pitch!
  • Climbers We Lost in 2014
  • Caldwell and Jorgeson are Charging Up The Dawn Wall
  • Ashima Shiraishi Climbs V12 in Bishop
  • Toni Lamprecht Establishes Black Flag (5.14c/d)
  • Video: Niky Ceria Bouldering in Albarracin, Spain Before the Chalk Ban
  • Desert Climbing Legend Eric Bjornstad Has Died
  • Adam Ondra Flashes Chromosome Y (5.14d)
  • Broken Rules and Broken Problems in Red Rock, Nevada
  • Will Mayo Sends Jedi Mind Tricks (M13) and Establishes Mustang (M14)
  • Jeff Mercier Onsights D13
  • Climbing Saves At-Risk Youth in Mexico
  • Ascent, Now Accepting Stories
  • Jimmy Webb Takes Down Defying Gravity (V15)
  • Climber Dies From Fall in the Gunks
  • Tommy Caldwell Sends Last Hard Pitch on the Dawn Wall
  • Ondra Takes First in Lead World Cup
  • Honnold Frees El Cap's Muir Wall (5.13b/c) in 12 Hours with No Falls
  • Delaney Miller Jumps From V7 to V11
  • Clif Bar's Response: A Letter to the Climbing Community
  • Drew Ruana, 15, Sends an American Classic - Just Do It (5.14c)
  • Alex Megos Sends Mandala Sit Start (V13/14)
  • Dave Pegg, King of Rifle, Has Died
  • Jorg Verhoeven Free Climbs the Nose (5.14) on El Cap
  • Honnold, Potter, and Others Fired by Clif Bar for Soloing
  • New Outhouse in Indian Creek in Honor of Black Diamond Engineer
  • Jimmy Webb Makes First Ascent of Wyoming’s Multiverse (V14)
  • Jakob Schubert Wastes No Time in Magic Wood
  • Another New Speed Record on the Nose for Sauter and Smith-Gobat
  • Martin Stranik Repeats Practice of the Wild (V15)
  • Gabriele Moroni Finishes Three-Year Project—Goldrake (5.15a)
  • Libby Sauter and Mayan Smith-Gobat Break El Cap Speed Record
  • Ondra and Kim Back on Top at Inzai World Cup
  • Nina Caprez Sends 5.14b at a New Crag in Turkey
  • Marieta Akalski Cranks in Spain, Sends Florida (5.14b)
  • Vandalism Across National Parks
  • Sonnie Trotter Establishes His Hardest Trad Climb - Family Man (5.14b)
  • Pete Whittaker Flashes Freerider (5.12d) on El Cap
  • Climber Dies in Fall at Zion National Park
  • Déjà Vu for Women, Ghisolfi Gets First Gold
  • Mina Leslie-Wujastyk Sends Mecca Extension (5.14b)
  • J-Star is Livin' Astro (5.14c)
  • Alex Huber Establishes 10-Pitch Alpine 5.14b
  • Bouldering in Namibia
  • Hukkataival Puts Up "One of the Best Boulders" He's Ever Climbed
  • Surprise in Korea: Ondra Out of Finals, Nice Wins for Schubert and Markovic
  • Scott Cosgrove Gravely Injured
  • Updated! Back-to-Back Strong Sends for Angela Eiter
  • DiGiulian and Marin Send 1,000-Foot 5.14 in Sardinia
  • New Four-Pitch Mixed Testpiece in Utah
  • Fabian Buhl Expands Repertoire With Six-Pitch Silbergeier (5.14a)
  • VIDEO: Mark Heal Makes FA of Holy Rails Sit (V13) in Tuolumne
  • Two V14s in a Day for Dave Graham
  • Oakdale Climbers Festival Themed "A Woman's Reach"
  • Katharina Saurwein Becomes Third Woman to Send Nuthin' But Sunshine (V13)
  • Avalanche Kills Two On 8,000m Himalayan Peak
  • Fred Nicole Sends The Escapist (V14)
  • Canadian Crusher Marieta Akalski Storms Rifle, Sends Her First 5.14a
  • The Naked Edge Done in 26 Minutes, See Video Clip
  • Mountain Guide Latest IS Victim
  • Daniel Woods Bags First Ascent at 14,000 Feet
  • VIDEO: Jorg Verhoeven and Katharina Saurwein Rip It Up in RMNP
  • Lee Sheftel Climbs 5.13b at 68 Years Old
  • Alex Puccio Sends Her Second V14, Wheel of Chaos
  • Brette Harrington Makes Second Female Ascent of the Trad Route Shadow (5.13a)
  • Jon Cardwell Sends Wheel of Chaos (V14) In A Day
  • Cheyne Lempe and Ethan Pringle Climb New Route in Yosemite
  • VIDEO: The Psychology of Climbing Champion Ramón Julián
  • World Cup Climber Sean McColl Dominates American Ninja Warrior
  • Jonathan Siegrist Develops Hard Routes in Idaho
  • Climber Dies From Fall On Mount Garfield, Washington
  • Alex Megos Sends His Longest Project Yet—Geocache
  • VIDEO: Inside the Mind of a Free Soloist - Tom Randall Goes Ropeless
  • Q&A: Yuji Hirayama Wants More UK Trad
  • Nalle Hukkataival Sends V15 Project in Australia
  • James Pearson Flashes Something’s Burning (5.13d X) in Wales
  • Yuji Hirayama Sends 5.13+ R Trad Testpiece
  • Chris Bonington, 80, Sends Old Man of Hoy for his Birthday
  • Alex Puccio's Outdoor Climbing Pays Off At Arco
  • VIDEO: Jonathan Siegrist Climbing Speed Intégrale (5.14d)
  • Ondra Dominates Bouldering Championships, Puccio Takes Silver
  • Alex Honnold Talks About the Risk of Free Soloing
  • Climber Dies in Tuolumne Meadows
  • Alex Puccio Climbs The Automator (V13)
  • Urs Moosmuller Climbs Fathers Day (5.14a) on Gear
  • Q&A: Beat Kammerlander Still Runs It Out
  • Buhrfeind and McColl Win 2014 Psicobloc Masters
  • Famed Utah Tower Falls
  • Angie Payne Gets Freaky with Her Second V13
  • Alex Puccio Sends Jade (V14)
  • Nina Caprez Redpoints All Pitches on Orbayu (5.14b)
  • First All-Female Nepalese Team Summits K2
  • Interview: Alex Megos Climbs Slow, But Sends Fast
  • VIDEO: Coxsey Climbs New Base Line (V14)
  • VIDEO: Nalle Hukkataival on Bügeleisen Sit Start (V15+)
  • Hans Florine, 50, Sets Solo Speed Record for Triple Direct on El Cap
  • Sam Davis Climbs Jade (V14)
  • Q&A: Shauna Coxsey Third Woman to Climb V14
  • Q&A: Alex Megos Sends Biographie/Realization (5.15a) in Three Tries
  • Q&A: Mirko Caballero Claims His 2nd V14
  • Coxsey and Caballero Climb V14
  • Ashima Shiraishi, 13, Becomes Second Female to Climb V14
  • Mélissa Le Nevé Sends Baa Baa Black Sheep (5.14b/c)
  • Alex Puccio Sends Nuthin’ But Sunshine (V13)
  • Q&A: Joe Kinder Climbs Punks in the Gym (5.14a) in a Downpour
  • Roland Hemetzberger Frees Multi-Pitch 5.14a in Zillertal, Austria
  • Q&A: Sam Elias and Mike Kerzhner Fire 3rd Ascent of El Cap's PreMuir (5.13+)
  • Austin Siadak Solos Evolution Traverse in a Day
  • Q&A: Mirko Caballero flashes his first V11 in South Africa
  • Kyle Vassilopoulos Establishes 130-Foot 5.14 at Wolf Point
  • Hukkataival Climbs Alpine Sport Testpiece Sibergeier (5.14a)
  • Chattanooga's Take on Buildering
  • Alex Megos Frees 20-Pitch 5.14b in Switzerland
  • Trotter, Caldwell, Wharton Put Up Six-Pitch Route in Sicily
  • Jes Meiris Beats Female Solo Speed Record of the Nose by 4 Days
  • Kilian Jornet Smashes Speed Record on Denali
  • Eitan Green, 28, Remembered
  • 7-Up: Honnold and Allfrey Climb 7 El Cap Routes in 7 Days
  • How To Be a Xena of Rock Climbing
  • Vail World Cup Comp Report: Noguchi repeats from last weekend, Sharafutdinov from last time at Vail
  • Emily Harrington Runs It Out to Send Tom et Je Ris (5.14a)
  • Mark Anderson Establishes the Hardest Route at Independence Pass
  • David Mason Sends 20 Problems (V11-V13) in Vastervik, Sweden
  • Six Presumed Dead After 3,000-Foot Fall On Mount Rainier
  • Q&A: Jonathan Siegrist Sends Biographie/Realization (5.15a)
  • Ryan Jennings and Kevin Cooper Climb Major New Route in Alaska
  • Nick Duttle Sends 10 New River Gorge 5.14s in One Month
  • Dean Potter Responds to Criticism About Flying with His Dog
  • New Yosemite Classic: First Free Ascent of The Unemployment Line (5.12-)
  • Alex Luger Frees "Psycho" 5.14 Trad Route
  • Mélissa Le Nevé Makes First Female Ascent of Wallstreet (5.14b)
  • Ondra Climbs Two 5.14ds and One 5.15a - Plus Amazing Send Footage
  • Jimmy Webb Sends Jour de Chasse (V15) in 15 minutes
  • Interview: Megos Sends Another 5.14d in Two Hours
  • Q&A: Ethan Pringle Gives Some Love to Jumbo Love (5.15b)
  • Nalle Hukkataival Sends Emotional Landscapes (V15)
  • Ondra Onsights Il Domani (5.14d)
  • Interview: Hukkataival on Bügeleisen Sit: Hardest in the World?
  • Special Report: Enough Misinformation, The Truth of Everest
  • Adam Ondra Climbs Two 5.14d’s While Training for the World Cup
  • Wharton Frees Hallucinogen in A Day
  • A Tribute To Our Brother, Ankaji Sherpa
  • 14-Year-Old Kai Lightner Climbs Lucifer (5.14c)
  • Jimmy Webb Climbs Multiple V15s in Magic Wood, Switzerland
  • Fransico “Novato” Marín Is the Oldest Person in the World to Climb 5.14a
  • Save Getu Climbing From Destruction
  • Jonathan Siegrist Establishes 5.14 Testpiece at Quality Arizona Crag
  • Jan Hojer Sends The Story of Two Worlds (V15) and Big Kat (V14)
  • Alpine Ascent of the Season: Lindic and Krajnc Free Rolling Stones
  • Video: Rok Klancnik Makes Third Ascent of Bügeleisen (V14/15)
  • Shauna Coxsey Climbs Her Second V13 in Albarracín, Spain
  • Hazel Findlay Becomes the First British Woman to Climb 5.14b
  • Sasha DiGiulian Climbs Red Bull Stadium
  • David Roetzel Solos 15 Pitches of Hard Ice in One Day
  • Ueli Steck's Solo, Slawinsky and Welsted's K6 Ascent Win Piolets d'Or
  • Is Bishop World Class? Niccolò Ceria Says Don’t Believe The Hype
  • Dani Arnold Free Solos 1,100-Foot WI 6 in 27 Minutes!
  • Jimmy Webb Sends The Story of Two Worlds (V15) in Switzerland
  • Sean "Stanley" Leary Killed BASE Jumping
  • Mirko Caballero Becomes Youngest Person to Climb V14
  • Katy Whittaker Climbs China Crisis (5.14a)
  • Red Flag! Help protect access to the Red River Gorge’s most popular crag.
  • American Climbers Crush in Switzerland
  • Stefan Glowacz and Chris Sharma Attempt Massive Oman Cave Route
  • Mark Anderson Makes Third Ascent of Mission Impossible (5.14c/d)
  • Isabelle Faus Climbs the World’s First V12 Trice
  • Barbara Zangerl Sends the Spicy Trad Pitch Prinzip Hoffnung (5.14a)
  • VIDEO: Woods and Webb Crush The Nest (V15)
  • Five Ten Adds Mirko Caballero to their Elite Team
  • The Secret Climb of Chris Sharma and Stefan Glowacz
  • Dan Goodwin Sets New World Record for Longest Lead Climb
  • Avalanche Kills Two Climbers in the Caucasus Mountains
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  • Final Update: UIAA Ice Climbing World Cup and Olympics
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    Nathan Kutcher Establishes Alaska’s Hardest Mixed Line

    07-Mar-2017
    By

    Canadian climber Nathan Kutcher has established what is likely the hardest mixed route in Alaska and a contender for the most difficult mixed climb in North America. His new route, Contra, ascends a near featureless, overhanging rock face in Keystone Canyon outside of Valdez.

    Nathan Kutcher on <em>Flake It Till You Make It</em> (M11), a parallel line to <em>Contra</em> (M13-) in Keystone Canyon, Valdez, Alaska. Photo: <a target="_blank" href="https://www.instagram.com/rockymtngringo/">Hayden Carpenter</a>.“When I clipped the chains there was no big celebration. I was too physically and mentally drained from fighting to keep things together,” Kutcher tells Rock and Ice. “I was physically wrecked for a few days after.”

    According to Kutcher, Contra holds its own against Saphira (M15-) in Vail, Colorado—a route widely considered to be the hardest mixed climb in North America—even though Kutcher suggested the humble grade of M13- for Contra.

    “It ended up being a lot harder than I thought!” he says.

    The allure of new lines, and the Valdez Ice Climbing Festival, brought Kutcher and his climbing counterpart, Rebecca Lewis, to the small seaside city of Valdez. The Canadians had planned on a different objective, but when the weather turned—and led to the cancelation of the festival's climbing events—Kutcher and Lewis looked for new options. They were happily suprised by what they found.

    “Before we came to Valdez we never expected to find something steep like this wall,” Kutcher says.

    Over the week, they envisioned, cleaned and bolted two side-by-side dry tooling routes (Kutcher still refers to them as mixed climbs) on the wall—Contra and Flake It Till You Make It (M11). Rock and Ice caught up with Kutcher to learn more about the climbs.

     

    Q&A with Nathan Kutcher

    What brought you up to Valdez, Alaska?

    I’ve always wanted to check out the climbing around Valdez, but it seemed like a long way to go. Lee Hart invited Rebecca [Lewis] up for the Valdez Ice Fest, which gave us more incentive. Looking at photos and talking with a local climber sealed the deal.

    I was really excited to go up and try to climb some new mixed routes on the days we weren't teaching clinics [for the ice festival].

    How did you find Contra and why did you choose that particular line?

    Going to Valdez, I had hoped to climb new multipitch routes on the bigger walls in the area, but the rain, melting river, and high avalanche conditions made us look for new options.

    I picked this line because it was a faint weakness of thin seams and overlaps up the center of the wall. There were a few continuous seams, as well as a couple of harder-to-see lines that I also briefly looked at. This one seemed like it would be hard, but not too hard. It ended up being a lot harder than I thought!

    The crew looks for possible lines on the wall. Photo: <a target="_blank" href="https://www.instagram.com/rockymtngringo/">Hayden Carpenter</a>.What's the style of climbing like?

    The wall is about 20-meters tall and around 25 to 30 degrees overhanging. Most of the weaknesses in the rock diagonal right to left up the wall. Other than the fracture lines, it has very few features. The diagonal nature of the seams and a lack of features on the face make for generally terrible footholds. The rock is some sort of slate or shale, and it’s very hard and slippery. It is also somewhat friable, but mostly solid.

    The overall climbing style is technical power climbing with bad feet. Most of the holds are three to six feet apart with bad or no feet, and most of them are rather small and technical. Some require sideways pulling and body tension. Because the wall is not very steep, figure-4ing is somewhat awkward and you can't just swing from hold to hold with a long sequence of fig-4/9's.

    It's hard to say Contra was fun because the moves are so difficult and insecure. I always felt like my tool was going to pop off and I was going to take an out-of-control fall. I guess hard routes are usually ‘Type 2’ fun. Looking back, they were all really fun.

    What was the crux for you?

    There is a technical crux and a redpoint crux. The technical crux is about two-thirds the way up at a deadpoint to a small accuracy-dependent hold just out of reach. There are no footholds there, so for me it involved smearing my lower crampon on the smooth rock to push myself as high as possible on a figure-4. The redpoint crux at the end isn't particularly difficult, but involves long pulls after your biceps are fried.

    What do you think the grade is?

    I'm not sure what the grade is. I feel like there should be some sort of mathematical formula for calculating M-Grades!

    Move for move, I think Contra is the hardest route I have climbed on rock with tools. But it is short and I know I can climb something harder. There were one or two moves that were near the limit of my reach, but I think I could go further. I just need more core tension and endurance.

    I rated Contra M13-. I hope someone will come repeat it and put in his or her opinion. It’s not like anything I've climbed in high-end outdoor drytooling.

    Nathan Kutcher sticks the technical crux of <em>Contra</em>, a deadpoint to a small hold, using a figure-4.<br />Photo: <a target="_blank" href="https://www.instagram.com/ljsteele_photography/ "> LJSteele Photography</a>.How does it compare to other top mixed routes in North America?

    I recently repeated Saphira at Vail. It’s a hard route and could possibly be the most difficult in the U.S., but I don't think that it's (and several other high end routes at Vail) anywhere near its proposed [M15-] grade.

    Saphira took me five tries over two and a half days. Two of the days and three of the tries were spent finding holds. The day I sent Saphira I dropped a tool right after starting into the reverse Mustang section. I lowered off, pulled the rope, started over and sent it.

    I think Contra took me five tries over three days, and I knew where most of the holds were. Even though the styles of climbing are very different I think the routes are similar in difficulty overall.

    Where do you think the sport of dry tooling is heading?

    Some people have said that hard dry tooling outside is dead. They could be right, but I think that “hard” routes need to be looked at from a new perspective. Hanging on forever through bigger and bigger roofs doesn't make routes harder when you always have a jug to hold onto. Horizontal rock is also not that difficult to climb compared to something not as horizontal—think about swinging across monkey bars and how much more difficult it would be at a 45-degree angle.

    I'm really excited about this cliff, and the cliffs we found on the Bay of Fundy that have dense rock that is steep, but not horizontal.

    Is Rebecca’s route still unclimbed?

    Rebecca put in an amazing effort the last day we were there. She gave two solid redpoint burns and fell off the second to last move on her second redpoint attempt. If she had a day or two for rest and another attempt she would have sent it for sure.

    I climbed it with her blessing so it would be finished, just in case we didn't get back next year. We also wanted to try to get a better idea of how difficult it is.

    Rebecca Lewis, in photo, and Nathan Kutcher spend a “rest day” away from their mixed projects climbing an overhanging iceberg on Glacier Lake. Photo: <a target="_blank" href="https://www.instagram.com/rockymtngringo/">Hayden Carpenter</a>.In the end I think of it as her route. She envisioned it, she cleaned it and she did the majority of the bolting. With sport climbing, I think it’s mostly a matter of semantics who the first person to send a route is, unless it’s a groundbreaking ascent. But without the hard work of the equipper, a sport route doesn't exist.

    She named it, Flake It Till You Make It, and we graded it M11.

    What’s next for you? Trips, projects, events?

    Rebecca and I are organizing the Great Lakes Mixed Competition in Fenton, Michigan on March 11. We have a few crushers coming out, but this year it’s geared more towards people who have never tried competitions or even mixed climbing.

    We want to show that comps can be fun, and hopefully start building a larger base of people who are into competitive dry tooling. After that we will probably switch back to rock climbing.

    We also have to go back to work and actually make money rather than just spend it at some point...

    Do you think you’ll ever return to Valdez?

    Yes! I would like to come back next year if I have the time. There is a pile of established routes I'd like to climb and a lot of potential for new routes.

     

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    Tom Ballard Establishes World’s Hardest Dry Tooling Route

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