As the men’s lead finals of the 2016 IFSC Climbing World Championships in Paris wound down on Sunday, no competitor had topped out the
finals route. Sean McColl (CAN) had peeled off on the final headwall; Jakob Schubert (AUT) made it to within a few holds of the finish. The title came
down to the last competitor, Adam Ondra (CZE). After matching Schubert’s high point, Ondra launched off two tiny holds, lunging for a jug. Swinging
wildly, he stuck the move, then turned toward the audience, whooping and fist-pumping, knowing he had just clinched his second consecutive World Championship
in lead climbing.
The men’s and women’s medalists in lead
and bouldering at the World Championships, held only every two years, hailed from seven countries. Japan, Slovenia and the host-country France each
saw multiple climbers medal. Though no American athletes joined them, several of the U.S. women turned in particularly strong performances. Claire
Buhrfeind qualified for the lead finals and finished tied for seventh with a score of 23+. In women’s bouldering, Megan Mascarenas, the 2016 U.S. bouldering
champion, finished just off the podium in fourth, with two total tops.
Finishing behind Ondra in the men’s lead finals were Jakob Schubert in second with a score of 42+ and Gautier Supper (FRA) in third with a score of 41.
Sean McColl finished in sixth with a score of 37+, while the veteran Ramon Julian Puigblanque -- two-time gold medalist in World Championships -- finished
in a disappointing 9th place with a score of 9+.
In the women’s lead finals, Janja Garnbret (SLO) and Anak Verhoeven (BEL) both topped out. Garnbret took gold (based on a better performance in the semi-finals),
while Verhoeven went home with silver. Mina Markovic (SLO) rounded out the top three with a score of 43+.
In the bouldering division, Petra Klingler (SUI) shocked a talented finals pool, riding to gold on a virtuoso performance that included two flashes and
three total tops. Finishing behind her were Miho Nonaka (JAP) in second and Akiyo Noguchi (JAP) in third.
the men’s bouldering finals, Tomoa Narasaki (JAP), the 2016 IFSC World Cup winner, claimed the title by topping three of the boulder problems. Adam
Ondra finished just behind, topping out the same three problems as Narasaki, but taking more attempts. Ondra’s second-place finish means that he came
astonishingly close to defending his dual-gold medals in lead and bouldering from the 2014 World Championships.
In the men's speed climbing competition, Marcin Dzienski (POL) won gold, Reza Alipourshena (IRI) won silver and Aleksandr Shikov (RUS) won bronze. In the
women's speed finals, Anna Tsyganova (RUS) came in first, Anouck Jaubert (FRA) took second and Luliia Kaplina (RUS) came in third.
In the Paraclimbing World Championships, several American climbers took home medals or just missed doing so. Maureen Beck won gold medal in the women's
AU-2 (forearm amputee) division after she topped out the finals route, and Connor King captured bronze for the U.S. in the Men's RP1 (limited range,
power or stability) finals. Ronald Dickson just missed medaling, finishing fourth in the men's AL-2 (leg amputee) division, while Jillian Bukoski
also finished in fourth place in the women's RP3 finals.
The full bouldering and lead finals results are listed below.
Women’s Lead Finals
- Janja Garnbret (Slovenia)
- Anak Verhoeven (Belgium)
- Mina Markovic (Slovenia)
- Jain Kim (Korea)
- Jessica Pilz (Austria)
- Julia Chanourdie (France)
- Claire Buhrfeind (USA)
- Magdalena Röck (Austria)
- Alina Ring (Switzerland)
Men’s Lead Finals
- Adam Ondra (Czech Republic)
- Jakob Schubert (Austria)
- Gautier Supper (France)
- Domin Skofic (Slovenia)
- Romain Desgranges (France)
- Sean McColl (Canada)
- Stefano Ghisolfi (Italy)
- Keiichiro Korenaga (Japan)
- Ramón Julian Puigblanque (Spain)
Women’s Bouldering Finals
- Petra Klingler (Switzerland)
- Miho Nonaka (Japan)
- Akiyo Noguchi (Japan)
- Megan Mascarenas (USA)
- Anna Stöhr (Austria)
- Elena Krasovskaia (Russia)
Men’s Bouldering Finals
- Tomoa Naraski (Japan)
- Adam Ondra (Czech Republic)
- Manuel Cornu (France)
- Mickael Mawem (France)
- Jeremy Bonder (France)
- Tsukuru Hori (Japan
To see the full results from the 2016 World Championships in all categories, visit the IFSC’s website at ifsc-climbing.org.
2016 IFSC Climbing World Championships
Cover photo: Eddie Fowke/IFSC.