Stefano Carnati, 18, has climbed Wolfgang Güllich’s legendary Action Directe (9a/5.14d) in the Frankenjura, Germany.
The Italian climber spent four years projecting the route and fell from the last move three times before redpointing.
“The end of a dream which was turning into an obsession!” he posted on Instagram.
Güllich established the short but powerful Frankenjura testpiece, laden with mono and two-finger pockets, at the Waldkopf crag in 1991. It became a benchmark
for the 9a grade and instantly gained international renown. Caranti first attempted the limestone prow in August 2013 and he managed to do all the
moves except the dyno start, according to Planet Mountain. Four years and more than 60 attempts later, he finally clipped the chains.
In March, Carnati, 17 at the time, made the third ascent of Adam Ondra’s Goldrake (9a+/5.15a) at Cornalba in northern Italy. He redpointed the
route in 13 attempts over five days. Goldrake was Carnati’s first 5.15a and the speed at which he climbed it is a testament to the difficulty
of Action Directe.
With his ascent, Carnati joins the ranks of the world’s best climbers—including Güllich, Dave Graham, Dai Koyamada, Adam Ondra, Jan Hojer, Alex Megos,
among others. Carnati’s is the 20th known ascent of the testpiece and the second Italian, after Gabriele Moroni in 2010.
"With this route I've understood how hard it could be to try a route at your limit far from home,” Carnati told Planet Mountain.
“Since I started climbing, I've always had the desire to try it one day as I really like pockets but above all for its history!"