• Anak Verhoeven On Making the First Female 5.15a First Ascent
  • Japan Ranks First, U.S. Second at Youth World Championships
  • RECALL: Totem Issues Voluntarily Recall of Basic Cams
  • Adam Ondra – Silence (9c/5.15d) Interview
  • Great. Climbing. Writing. - Editor's Note #245
  • Adam Ondra Sends Project Hard - The World's First 5.15d
  • Slaying a Giant – Gord McArthur Establishes the World’s First D16
  • Hojer and Garnbret Win Final Bouldering World Cup of the Season
  • Jimmy Webb Repeats Creature From The Black Lagoon (V16)
  • Roadworthy! Our Top Gear Picks For Road Trips 2017
  • Evan Hau Establishes Honour and Glory, Canada’s Second 5.15
  • VIDEO: Sasha DiGiulian and Edu Marin Climb Mora Mora (8c/5.14b)
  • DiGiulian and Marin Make Second Free Ascent of Mora Mora (8c/5.14b) in Madagascar
  • U.S.A. Climbing Announces 2017/2018 National Cup Series
  • Garnbret Goes Undefeated and Desgranges Reclaims Gold in Briançon
  • VIDEO: Ryuichi Murai Destroys Magic Wood's Hardest Boulders
  • Ruby Supernova: First Ascent of 520-meter Trad Route in South Africa
  • Cliff Notes - Chris Parker's Songs Inspired by the Climbing Life
  • Mason Earle Sends Squamish Testpiece Cobra Crack (5.14b)
  • Canadians Free New Line On Chacraraju Este in the Cordillera Blanca
  • Results from U.S.A. Climbing Sport and Speed Youth Nationals 2017
  • The First Road Trip, Ever - Editor's Note #244
  • Second Gold for Garnbret and a First for Bombardi at Chamonix World Cup
  • Ondra Establishes Move Hard (5.15b), Makes Progress on "Project Hard"
  • Katie Bono Sets Bar for Women’s Denali Speed Record
  • Garnbret and Desgranges Win First IFSC Lead World Cup of the Season
  • Karakoram: Climbing Through the Kashmir Conflict, by Steve Swenson
  • Search Called Off for Missing Climbers on Nanga Parbat
  • AAC Announces 2017 Craggin' Classic Series
  • Adam Ondra's Training Video Series (NEW EPISODE)
  • Jonathan Siegrist Sends Three Rifle 5.14d’s in Two Weeks
  • Mike Foley Sends Dreamcatcher (5.14d) in Squamish (with send footage)
  • Seb Bouin Completes 20-Year-Old Open Project in France
  • Shauna Coxsey Secures Bouldering World Cup Title in Navi Mumbai
  • Chris Sharma Establishes Deep Water Solo “Dream Line” in France
  • Q&A: Joe Kinder on Fat Camp (5.14d), Rifle and Route Development
  • Alex Megos Puts Up Clash of the Titans (9a+/5.15a) in Austria
  • Pirmin Bertle Establishes South America’s Third 9a - Ruta de Cobre
  • Quinn Brett Makes Rare Free Ascent of Spaceshot in Zion
  • Alex Megos Repeats Companion of Change (5.15a) In Three Days
  • Coxsey and Chon Victorious at 2017 Vail World Cup
  • VIDEO: First Teaser of Alex Honnold’s El Cap Free Solo
  • Top Climbers At World Cup in Vail, Colorado This Weekend
  • Alex Honnold, Freerider and What It All Means for Climbing
  • Alex Honnold – El Cap Free Solo Interview
  • Big Deal – Alex Honnold Free Solos El Cap
  • Steve McClure, 46, Establishes the U.K.'s First 5.15b, Rainman
  • Jon Cardwell, Sasha DiGiulian and Marcus Garcia Free Yosemite’s Misty Wall
  • Editor's Note: Rock and Ice 243 (July 2017) - Trundling Along
  • European Climbing Trips With Rockbusters: Learn With the Pros
  • Christof Rauch Puts Up Three V15s In Two Weeks
  • Marek Raganowicz Solos Two New Routes on Baffin Island
  • VIDEO: Piedra Blanca - Charlotte Durif Explores Puerto Rico
  • Alex Megos Onsights Second 5.14d!
  • Kai Lightner and Brooke Raboutou Win 2017 Dominion Riverrock
  • The Hillary Step: Gone, Altered, or Simply Hidden?
  • The Push: Tommy Caldwell and Alex Honnold on the Fitz Traverse
  • VIDEO: Above the Fray - Beth Rodden on Climbing, Kidnap and Motherhood
  • Seventh Time’s the Charm? Kuriki Poised for Everest Summit
  • The New Adaptive Foot: A Step Forward For Adaptive Climbing
  • Hong and Cardwell Establish Stocking Stuffer (5.14d) in Rifle
  • Four Medals for Japan and Gold for Rubtsov and Garnbret in Tokyo
  • Interview: Alex Honnold and the Kenya Expedition
  • American Climbers Crank in Spain This Season
  • Q&A: Jon Cardwell Sends Papichulo (5.15a) in Spain
  • Stefano Ghisolfi Makes First Ascent of One Punch (9a+/5.15a), Italy
  • Coxsey and Watabe Take Gold at 2017 Nanjing World Cup
  • Yoga for Climbers - Video Series
  • Ueli Steck Killed on Nuptse
  • Ethan Pringle Makes FA of Everything Is Karate (5.14+) in Bishop
  • Jonathan Siegrist Interview - Three 5.15s in Three Weeks
  • VIDEO: Jonathan Siegrist and the Art of Projecting - Pachamama (5.15a)
  • Jonathan Siegrist Sends Three 5.15's in Three Weeks
  • Tuck Fest Hosts First Comp on NC's Permanent Deep Water Solo Wall
  • EVENT: Leif Whittaker Comes to Carbondale, Colorado
  • Top Podium Spots for Garnbret and Chon at Chongqing World Cup
  • Adam Ondra Destroys Italy’s Hardest Climbs
  • Klemen Bečan Jumps Aboard the La Rambla Send Train
  • 2017 Piolets d'Or Awarded to British and Russian Teams
  • Jimmy Webb and Dave Graham Send Ill Thrill (8B+/V14) in Magic Wood
  • Trango Recalls New Vergo Belay Device
  • Alizée Dufraisse Sends Estado Critico (5.14d), Siurana, Spain
  • Outrage and Red Cards Mark the First IFSC World Cup of the Season
  • My Old Man and the Mountain, by Leif Whittaker (book excerpt)
  • Alexander Rohr Makes Third Ascent of Chromosome Y (9a/5.14d)
  • Alex Megos Establishes Chile’s First 5.14d, Pasito a Pasito
  • Wild Country Recalls Friends - Sizes 2, 3 and 4
  • Taylor McNeill Repeats Webb's Engine Bloc (V14), Makes V14 First Ascent
  • Margo Hayes – La Rambla (5.15a) Interview
  • Golden Age Climbing Legend Royal Robbins Dies, Aged 82
  • Ashima Shiraishi, Kai Lightner Win 2017 Sport National Championship
  • Hueco Tanks Re-Opens The Five Bimbos to Bouldering
  • Access Fund Announces 2016 Sharp End Awards
  • Nathan Kutcher Establishes Alaska’s Hardest Mixed Line
  • Michaela Kiersch Sends Two 5.14c’s in One Weekend
  • Jeff Lowe Honored with Piolet d’Or Lifetime Achievement Award
  • VIDEO: Stefano Ghisolfi Sends Jungle Boogie (9a+/5.15a)
  • Nina Williams Completes Bishop Highball Trio with Ambrosia (V11)
  • Q&A: Matty Hong Sends La Rambla (5.15a) in Spain
  • Michaela Kiersch Sends "Savage" Twenty Four Karats (5.14c), RRG
  • Fifteen-Year-Old Laura Rogora Sends Joe-Cita (5.14d)
  • Margo Hayes Sends La Rambla (5.15a)!
  • Weekend Whipper: Adam Ondra Whips Off Neanderthal (5.15b)
  • After 20 Years of Waiting "Dreamline" (WI 6+) Comes True
  • Toru Nakajima Makes Fourth Ascent of Lucid Dreaming (V15)
  • Outdoor Gear Innovator Jack Stephenson Passes Away at 84
  • A Trip Across the Pond: Shauna and Leah Train U.S. Style
  • Events at Valdez Ice Festival Canceled Due to Unsafe Conditions
  • 2017 USA Bouldering Youth National Championships Results
  • Puccio, Coleman Take 2017 Bouldering Open National Championship
  • Stefano Ghisolfi Sends Sharma's First Round, First Minute (5.15b)
  • Seb Bouin Repeats Novena Enmienda (5.14d/5.15a) in Spain
  • Roland Pauligk, the Creator of the RP, Dies at Age 79
  • Hardest Female First Ascent Ever for 15-Year Old Laura Rogora?
  • 22nd Annual Ouray Ice Festival Delivers the Stuff
  • Chris Snobeck Sends Saphira (M15-), America’s Hardest Mixed Climb
  • Top 10 Climbing Videos of 2016
  • VIDEO: Jimmy Webb's Next Level Project And A Nasty Finger Injury
  • Jimmy Webb Repeats Kintsugi (V15), Makes V13 FA in Yosemite
  • Training For Climbing with Eric Hörst - Video Series
  • Alexey Dengin, WoonSeon Shin Start Ice World Cup Season with Golds
  • Life After Competition: Mélissa Le Nevé Climbs Her First 8B (V13)
  • Roadworthy - Our Top Travel Gear 2016
  • Good-bye, Indian Creek – Excerpt from Luke Mehall’s Latest Book
  • 2017 Mugs Stump Award Recipients Announced
  • Jongwon Chon Continues Sending Streak with Second New V15
  • Anna Liina Laitinen Sends Southern Smoke (5.14c), RRG
  • Top 10 Weekend Whippers of 2016
  • Ice Climbing World Cup Comes to Durango, Colorado
  • Jongwon Chon Triumphs at La Sportiva Legends Only 2016
  • Jorg Verhoeven - Dihedral Wall Interview
  • El Cap’s Heart Route (5.13b V10) Sees Second Free Ascent
  • Adam Ondra – Dawn Wall Interview
  • Adam Ondra Sends the Dawn Wall!
  • Final Push – Day 6: Ondra Sends Crux Pitches, Reaches Wino Tower
  • Barbara Zangerl, Jacopo Larcher Free El Cap's Zodiac (VI 5.13d)
  • Final Push – Day 4: Adam Ondra Hits First Hurdle
  • Jorg Verhoeven Makes Second Free Ascent of Dihedral Wall (VI 5.14a)
  • Final Push – Day 2: Ondra Completes Pitches 10 Through 13 on Dawn Wall
  • Robbie Phillips Frees El Cap’s 30-Pitch Pre-Muir (5.13d)
  • Michaela Kiersch Sends Golden Ticket (5.14c), Red River Gorge
  • VIDEO: David Lama Attempts Southeast Ridge of Annapurna III
  • Final Push: Adam Ondra Blasts Up First Nine Pitches of the Dawn Wall
  • Wildfire Engulfs Popular East Coast Climbing Area
  • Ashima Shiraishi, Margo Hayes Dominate at 2016 Youth World Championships
  • Dawn Wall Update: Adam Ondra Prepares for Final Push
  • Climbers We Lost in 2016
  • Vandal Destroys Holds on Climbs in Little Cottonwood Canyon, Utah
  • The Gunks' New Hardest Climb: Bro-Zone (5.14b)
  • INTERVIEW: Jernej Kruder On Climbing Sharma’s “King Line” Es Pontas
  • Jernej Kruder Repeats Sharma’s “King Line” Es Pontas
  • VIDEO: Adam Ondra Onsights C'est La Vie (8c+/5.14c)
  • Joe Kinder Puts Up Bone Tomahawk (5.14d/5.15a)
  • VIDEO: Adam Ondra's First Ascent of Robin Ud (5.15b)
  • Steph Davis, Unpacked: From Desert Towers to Indian Creek Craggin'
  • Dave Graham Nabs Second Ascent of Creature from the Black Lagoon (V16)
  • Michaela Kiersch Sends Lucifer (5.14c), Red River Gorge
  • Nalle Hukkataival Sends World’s First V17
  • Ghisolfi and Garnbret Seize Golds at World Cup in Xiamen, China
  • Neil Gresham, 45, Establishes Sabotage (8c+/5.14c), Malham Cove
  • Dawn Wall Update: Adam Ondra Reaches Pitch 15 and Dyno Crux
  • Adam Ondra Makes Quick Progress on the Dawn Wall
  • Winners of the Rock and Ice / Mammut Photo Contest 2016
  • Dave Graham Establishes Topaz (V15) in Wild Basin, RMNP, Colorado
  • Best Mountaineering Article 2016 Award Goes to Jeff Long
  • El Cap Sees 90-percent Decline In Attempts Following Tom Evans’ Retirement
  • Red Rock Canyon Under Threat From Major Housing Development
  • Magnus Midtbø Finally Sends Thor's Hammer (~5.15a)
  • Chris Sharma Makes Second Ascent of Joe Mama (5.15a)
  • VIDEO: Stefano Carnati Climbing Le Cadre Nouvelle (9a/5.14d), Céüse
  • Matty Hong Sends Shadowboxing (5.14d) and Kryptonite (5.14d)
  • Adam Ondra Climbs New 5.15b, Onsights 5.14c
  • Isabelle Faus Sends Her Second V14, The Wheel of Chaos
  • Stefano Ghisolfi Bags Third Ascent of Jungle Boogie (5.15a)
  • Life and Death in the Karakoram: Climbing Latok I and Ogre II
  • VIDEO: Tom Randall and Pete Whittaker's "Crucifix Project"
  • Wide Boyz Establish World’s Longest Roof Crack - Crown of Thorns (5.14a)
  • Mark Anderson Sends Shadowboxing (5.14d), Rifle, Colorado
  • VIDEO: Kilian Fischhuber Repeats Rätikon's Headless Children (8b/5.13d)
  • Chris Sharma Sends Five-Year 5.15 Deep Water Solo Project
  • Daniel Woods Climbs Black 90 Project at V16
  • Marc-André Leclerc Solos Patagonia’s Torre Egger in Winter
  • Matty Hong Repeats Fat Camp (5.14d) in Rifle, Colorado
  • Banff Mountain Book Competition Announces 2016 Finalists
  • Remembering Kim Schmitz, by John Roskelley
  • Ondra Seizes Lead Championship, American Women Climb High
  • Roger Schaeli Makes Second Ascent of La Vida es Silbar, Eiger North Face
  • Ines Papert Makes Rare Ascent of Alpine Testpiece Scaramouche (5.13b/c)
  • Rob Collister: Gletscherhorn North Face, Swiss Alps
  • 2016 IFSC Climbing World Championships
  • VIDEO: Ryuichi Murai Sends Three V15’s In A Month
  • Ashima Shiraishi on Horizon (V15), Sleepy Rave (V15) & “Young Guns”
  • VIDEO: Chris Sharma Trains With Patxi Usobiaga For ‘Le Blond’ Project
  • Boardman Tasker Award for Mountain Literature 2016 Shortlist
  • VIDEO: Dave Graham Sends Monkey Wedding (V15), Rocklands
  • Search Called Off for Missing Pair in Pakistan
  • (Updated) Weather to Break, Helicopters Expected to Fly in Search for Adamson and Dempster in Karakorum
  • ​Tommy Caldwell Free Climbs Mount Hooker in a Day Car to Car
  • Domen Skofic, Magdalena Röck Victorious at Imst Lead World Cup
  • Alex Megos Flashes The Path (5.14 R) On Gear, Talks Fightclub (5.15b)
  • Coxsey, Narasaki Overall 2016 Bouldering World Cup Champions
  • Dave Graham Sends Old Nemesis, Monkey Wedding (V15)
  • Alex Megos Establishes Fightclub – Canada’s First 5.15
  • Margo Hayes, 18, Breaks the “Boys Club” of Bad Girls Club (5.14d)
  • Jon Cardwell Finishes Fat Camp (5.14d), Rifle First Ascent
  • VIDEO: Man Attempts to Climb Trump Tower, Gets Nabbed
  • Jan Hojer, Michaela Kiersch Win 2016 Psicobloc Masters, Park City
  • Miranda Oakley Breaks Women’s Solo Speed Record on the Nose
  • REEL ROCK 11 Film Tour Lineup
  • Taking Back the Record - The Nose, Yosemite
  • Sean Bailey, 20, Clips Chains on Biographie/Realization (5.15a)
  • Ashima Tops Second V15, Sleepy Rave, Grampians, Australia
  • Tokyo 2020 Olympics Officially Approves Climbing
  • A Win for Tennessee Climbing: Denny Cove Protected
  • Megos Crushes Canada: Seven 5.14b’s in Four Days
  • Toshi Takeuchi, Shawn Raboutou Smash Spray of Light (V15)
  • Drew Ruana, 16, Sends Le Cadre Nouvelle (5.14d) in Céüse
  • VIDEO: Melissa Le Nevé on Training, Comps and Outdoor Projects
  • Dave Di Paolo, Carderock Hammer Killer, Sentenced to 10 Years
  • Climbers Spook Gunman, Allowing Hostages to Flee on Independence Pass
  • Adam Ondra Cranks 5.15a FA in Three Attempts, Onsights Two 5.14c's
  • VIDEO: Alex Megos Sends Ben Moon’s Infamous Hubble (5.14c)
  • Nalle Hukkataival, Vadim Timonov Send Monkey Wedding (V15)
  • Gary Falk, IFMGA Guide, Falls to Death on Grand Teton
  • Janja Garnbret Dominates Lead World Cup, Again
  • Sherpas on Denali: First Nepalese Ascent of the West Rib
  • Mich Kemeter Frees 14-Pitch Voie Petit (8b 5.13d) on Grand Capucin
  • Paul Robinson - South African Boulder Fiend and Visionary
  • Nalle Hukkataival Repeats The Dragon’s Guardian (~V15), South Africa
  • Sean McColl, Janja Garnbret Take Gold At 2016 Villars World Cup
  • Margo Hayes, Brian Huang Win USA Climbing Junior Sport Nationals
  • Seb Bouin Repeats Thor’s Hammer (~5.15a), Suggests Downgrade
  • Inspect Your DMM Climbing Harness
  • Slovenians Victorious at First Lead World Cup of Season
  • Ashima Shiraishi Injured in 45-Foot Ground Fall
  • Weekend Whipper: Climbers vs. Trees
  • Adam Ondra Establishes The Right of Passage (5.14d), Flatanger
  • Sachi Amma Repeats Thor's Hammer (9a+ 5.15a)
  • Paul Robinson Establishes The Dragon’s Guardian (V15), South Africa
  • Three El Cap Routes in a Day for Brad Gobright and Scott Bennett
  • Q&A: Martin Keller, 39, Sends 13-Year Project Highlander (8C V15)
  • American Alpine Club Announces 2016 Craggin’ Classics
  • The Battle for Indian Creek: Bears Ears, Rob Bishop & the Access Fund
  • Jon Cardwell's Biographie (9a+ 5.15a) Training and Projecting Advice
  • Dave Graham Makes Third Ascent of Delirium (V15)
  • Caroline Gleich, World-Famous Ski Mountaineer, is a Trad Addict
  • Virtual Reality: Watch Alex Honnold Solo the Needles in 360-degrees
  • Bouldering Access is Back in Catoctin Mountain Park, Maryland
  • Adam Ondra Makes First Ascent of 120 Degrees (5.15a), Flatanger
  • VIDEO: Sean Villanueva O'Driscoll Loves Pain and Dirty, Wet Cracks
  • Klemen Bečan Sends Papichulo (5.15a), Disappointed With Ease
  • Margo Hayes, 18, Sends The Crew (5.14c) in Rifle
  • President Obama Takes Over Yosemite
  • Rustam Gelmanov Makes Second Ascent of Hypnotized Minds (V16)
  • RIP Ken Wilson: Editor of Mountain Magazine, Rabble-Rouser
  • Lena Herrmann, 22, Climbs 5.14c in the Frankenjura
  • The Desert – Excerpt from “American Climber” by Luke Mehall
  • Heather Weidner Sends China Doll (5.14a R) on Gear
  • INTERVIEW: USA Boulderers On the IFSC World Cup in Vail
  • Stefano Carnati Sends Action Directe (5.14d), Frankenjura
  • RIP: Nicholas Clinch, 85, Led Only American First Ascent of an 8000er
  • Jonathan Siegrist's Mission to Rediscover Switzerland's World-Class Sport Climbing
  • Megan Mascarenas Dominates 2016 Vail Bouldering World Cup
  • Mélissa Le Nevé, a Top-Three Boulderer at Vail World Cup, Talks Rock
  • VIDEO: Pump Control and Efficient Resting for Climbing
  • Virginia Sandstone Crag Opened to Climbing
  • Bouldering World Cup Comes to Vail, Colorado This Weekend
  • Alex Megos Sends Hubble (8c+), Northern Lights (9a)
  • INTERVIEW: Melissa Arnot on Climbing Everest Without Supplemental Oxygen
  • Dai Koyamada Establishes Nehanna (V14/15) in Japan
  • VIDEO: Daniel Woods on the Elusive V17 Bouldering Grade
  • VIDEO: Adam Ondra Makes Second Ascent of Geocache (9a+/5.15a)
  • Q&A: Jon Cardwell On Climbing Biographie/Realization (9a+/5.15a)
  • Adam Ondra Repeats Geocache (9a+/5.15a) in a Day
  • American Melissa Arnot Claims Mount Everest Record
  • Jon Cardwell Sends Biographie/Realization (5.15a)
  • Coxsey, Chon Win Innsbruck Bouldering World Cup
  • Nathaniel Coleman, Brooke Raboutou Win 2016 Riverrock Boulder Bash
  • Zimmerman, Wright Establish New Route in Alaska’s St. Elias Range
  • Three Dead, Two Missing and Hundreds Summit on Everest
  • Robbie Phillips and Jacob Cook Free El Cap’s 30-Pitch El Niño
  • VIDEO: Chris Sharma On His Santa Linya Project
  • Climbing and Mentorship Come Together at City Rocks
  • Japan Triumphs at Bouldering World Cup in Navi Mumbai
  • Silvio Reffo Sends Goldrake (5.15a), Cornalba, Italy
  • VIDEO: Alex Megos Sends First Round, First Minute (5.15b)
  • Ofer Blutrich Sends Mind Control - First Israeli to Climb 5.14c
  • INTERVIEW: Sonnie Trotter on Freeing "The Prow," 5.14a Multi-pitch
  • Valley Walls: A Memoir of Climbing and Living in Yosemite
  • VIDEO: Adam Ondra Attempts The World's First 5.15a Flash
  • VIDEO: The Width of Life - Tribute to Dave Pegg, Colorado Climbing Legend
  • William Bosi, 17, Climbs Rainshadow (5.14d), Malham Cove
  • Shauna Coxsey Triumphs, Tomoa Narasaki Shocks at Chongqing World Cup
  • Alex Lowe's and David Bridges' Remains Found on Shishapangma
  • Mark Cole, Longtime Leader in SE Climbing, Passes at 58
  • The Greatest Boulderer You’ve Never Heard Of: Ryuichi Murai's on Fire
  • Alex Lowe Charitable Foundation's Khumbu Climbing Center Almost Complete
  • Climbers Remember Nepal on Anniversary of Earthquake
  • Shauna Coxsey Dominates at Kazo World Cup
  • VIDEO: Epic Climber - Sharma, Ondra, Digiulian, and Marin in Spain
  • Adam Ondra On Climbing In The Olympics
  • Crack School with Tom Randall and Pete Whittaker (Video Series)
  • Mary Harlan: Heartiness, Suffering and The Zion Link-Up
  • Chuck Pratt's "The View From Dead Horse Point"
  • VIDEO: Ethan Pringle Sends Meadowlark Lemon (V14), Red Rock
  • Megan Mascarenas Places Third At Meiringen Bouldering World Cup
  • VIDEO: Slow Details - 2016 Meiringen Bouldering World Cup
  • Tyler Armstrong, 12, Denied Permit to Climb Mount Everest
  • Drew Ruana Sends Five 5.14s, Onsights Four 5.13s at the RRG
  • Ryuichi Murai Sends Hydrangea (V15), His Third V15 in a Month
  • Roland Hemetzberger Frees 22-Year-Old Project, Outro (5.15a)
  • Everest's Icefall Doctors Establish 2016 Route Through Khumbu Icefall
  • Black Diamond Recalls Camalots/Camalot Ultralights, Ascenders and Via Ferratas
  • Glen Dawson, Sierra Nevada Climbing Pioneer, Dies at 103
  • Jim Curran, British Climber and Author of "K2, The Story of The Savage Mountain," Dies
  • Stefano Ghisolfi Sends Adam Ondra’s Goldrake (5.15a)
  • Access Fund 2016 Climbing Preservation Grants
  • Michaela Kiersch Sends Pure Imagination (5.14c)
  • Five New Mixed Routes in Pilot Creek, Wyoming
  • Allen Frame Hill, Climber-Filmmaker, Found Dead at Home
  • VIDEO: Profondo Sud - Bouldering in Basilicata, Italy
  • Ryan Vachon Makes Second Ascent of Saphira (M15-)
  • Adam Ondra Claims 5.15a/b and 5.14d First Ascents in One Weekend
  • Brooke Raboutou, Dru Mack Send Southern Smoke (5.14c) at the RRG
  • Durango Climbers Linkup Six Fisher Towers in Under 24 Hours
  • Margo Hayes Sends Pure Imagination (5.14c) at the Red River Gorge
  • VIDEO: Edu Marin Discovers His Limits On Alex Huber's Sansara (8b+/5.14a)
  • Matty Hong Sends Papichulo (5.15a) in Oliana, Spain
  • 2016 Piolets d’Or Award Recipients Announced
  • Jon Cardwell Sends Shadow Boxing (5.14d), Flashes Waka Flocka (5.14b)
  • Interview: Klemen Bečan on the First Ascent of Joe Mama (5.15a)
  • Ashima Shiraishi Sends V15!
  • Stefano Carnati, 17, Makes Quick Work of Goldrake (5.15a) in Italy
  • Margo Hayes, Sean Bailey Win USA Sport Open National Championships
  • Big Crowds, Big Money: Climbers Bring $3.6 Million to the RRG
  • Ethan Pringle and La Reina Mora – The Full Story
  • V15 Send Train by Adam Ondra, Sachi Amma and Jongwon Chon
  • The Bold and Cold: A History of 25 Classic Climbs in the Canadian Rockies
  • The 2015 Sharp End Awards from the Access Fund
  • Alex Puccio on Grade Chasing and Climbing Media
  • Magnus Midtbø Makes Fourth Ascent of Seleccion Anal (9a+/5.15a)
  • Daniel Woods Sends Papichulo (5.15a) in Oliana, Spain
  • Legendary Climber Cal Swoager Dies at 66
  • Klemen Bečan Puts Up New 5.15a in Oliana, Spain
  • Mayan Smith-Gobat and Ines Papert Repeat Riders on the Storm, Patagonia
  • Interview: Marc-Andre Leclerc Solos Three Routes on Stanley Headwall
  • Gaetan Raymond Repeats World's Hardest Dry Tooling Route
  • Nacho Sánchez Sends Catalán Witness the Fitness (V15)
  • First Winter Ascent of Nanga Parbat
  • The Final Frontier – Rumney, NH Land Purchase
  • Scott Cosgrove, Bold Yosemite Climber, Passes Away
  • Highlights from the 2016 Ice Climbing World Youth Championship
  • Felipe Camargo Repeats Catalán Witness the Fitness (V15)
  • Adam Ondra Repeats Sharma’s Stoking the Fire (5.15b)
  • Lucie Hrozová Establishes Hardest Mixed Climb in U.S.
  • ​Snowball Fight on K2: Interview with Pasang Lhamu Sherpa Akita
  • Drew Ruana, 16, Establishes Smith Rock’s Hardest Route
  • Pasang Lhamu Sherpa Akita Named Nat Geo Adventurer of the Year
  • Jimmy Webb, Charles Albert Repeat Fontainebleau's “Hardest Climb”
  • Alex Puccio, Jakob Schubert Win 2016 Hueco Rock Rodeo
  • Climbing Anchors and the Evolution of the Quad
  • Tom Ballard Establishes World’s Hardest Dry Tooling Route
  • Tim Emmett, Klemen Preml Establish 260-Foot WI 12 at Helmcken Falls
  • Jimmy Webb Sends The Big Island (V15), Toupie Carnivore assis (V14)
  • Kevin Lopata Sends Jour de Chasse (V15), Fontainebleau (with video)
  • Rocasolano Makes Second Ascent of Catalan Witness the Fitness (V15)
  • VIDEO: Jonathan Siegrist Sends Power Inverter (5.15a)
  • Black Diamond Recalls Carabiners, Quickdraws and Slings
  • Jimmy Webb Sends l’Alchemiste In Three Tries – Downgrades
  • Brette Harrington Free Solos Austríaca in Patagonia
  • Nathaniel Coleman, Megan Mascarenas Win 2016 Bouldering Nationals
  • Marianne van der Steen Flashes Kamasutra (D13+)
  • Alex Honnold and Colin Haley Repeat the Torre Traverse in a Day
  • Barefoot Climber First to Repeat Original l’Alchimiste (~V14)
  • Alban Levier Cranks Third Ascent of l’Alchimiste (V15)
  • New Big Wall Route Established on El Diente North Face in Mexico
  • Epic Ascent of Yosemite’s Ephemeral Widow’s Tears
  • Colin Haley on Patagonian Solo Streak
  • VIDEO: Tom Randall Takes Down the Kraken (V13)
  • Ryan Vachon Dominates 2016 Ouray Mixed Climbing Competition
  • Guillaume Glairon-Mondet Puts Up New V16 in Fontainebleau
  • Two Experienced Climbers Killed in the Scottish Highlands
  • Jimmy Webb Sends The Game (V15)
  • Siegrist Sends Power Inverter (5.15a), Flashes Fish Eye (5.14b) in Spain
  • Jakob Schubert Sends La Planta de Shiva (5.15b) in Spain
  • VIDEO: Ueli Steck - Accepting Risk, Reward & Danger (Part 4)
  • Epic TV's Top Three Training Videos of 2015
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    Taking Back the Record - The Nose, Yosemite

    By Hans Florine and Jayme Moye

    ON JUNE 17, 2012, the speed-climbing legend Hans Florine teamed up with Alex Honnold to try to take back the Nose record, a title Florine had held almost continuously for 20 years, but had lost to Dean Potter and Sean Leary in 2010 by 20 seconds. In this excerpt from Florine’s new book, On the Nose: a Lifelong Obsession with Yosemite's Most Iconic Climb, Hans talks about what it’s like to climb with a guy who thinks his hands are as good as cams.


    Hans Florine pulls the steep part of the final bolt ladder. Photo: Paul Hara.A new rock star was rising in Yosemite. In 2007 a 21-year-old from Sacramento named Alex Honnold free-climbed two classic Yosemite routes, Astroman (5.11c) and the Rostrum (5.11c), back-to-back, in a day—without a rope. Astroman ascends for 1,100 feet, and the Rostrum for 800. One mistake—grabbing onto a loose piece of rock or slipping on a patch of moisture—would have most likely been the end of Alex Honnold.

    A year later, Alex did the unthinkable—he free-soloed the 2,000-foot Regular Northwest Face of Half Dome (5.12a), and became known in the Valley as “that crazy kid who climbs without ropes.” But I noticed Alex also did plenty of free climbing with ropes, setting several new speed records in the process. Most notably, in 2009, Alex and Sean Leary ratcheted down Yuji Hirayama’s free-climbing time of 13 hours on the Salathé (5.13b) to 8.5 hours.

    I’d seen Alex, a gangly guy with a mop of brown hair and a big smile, here and there in Yosemite, but our paths didn’t cross until spring 2010, when I heard he was attempting the speed record on the Nose with Ueli Steck.

    The next time I saw Alex in Yosemite, I approached him to get the scoop. He told me that Sender Films, the company that co-created the popular Reel Rock film tour, was on-site getting footage of Steck for the film The Swiss Machine. They’d asked Alex to take a run up the Nose with Steck for the camera. Alex said he’d read my book on speed climbing in preparation, and he seemed genuinely excited to apply what he’d learned to the Nose.

    While my ego wanted to hold onto the speed record, I liked Alex’s enthusiasm. It was a good opportunity to try out a new role as mentor. I gave Alex my number and offered advice if he had any questions. He took me up on it, calling a few times during the filming. I enjoyed those talks and learned that Alex has a wry sense of humor and an insatiable curiosity about climbing.

    Shortly after another film, Race for the Nose, about Dean Potter and Sean Leary’s successful effort to break the Nose record, premiered, I saw a call from Alex come through on my cell. I was pretty sure he was calling, under the guise of offering condolences, to rib me for losing “my precious.” I answered and braced myself.

    “I saw Race for the Nose,” he said. “Sorry about that.”

    “Yeah, thanks,” I said, somewhat sarcastically. Alex paused. Here it comes, I thought.

    “So I was thinking we should take it back,” he said. “You know, the record.”

    I nearly dropped my phone. “You,” I said, “and me, the old guy?”

    Florine bites down on the last 50 feet of the bolted slab section before the top. Photo: Paul Hara.

    “Exactly how old are you, anyway?”

    “Don’t worry about it,” I said. “Oh, and Alex?”


    “I’m in.”

    Alex was well on his way to fame at that point. Sender Films had released Alone on the Wall, which chronicled Alex’s attempt to free-solo the Regular Northwest Face of Half Dome. The startling photo of Alex standing, without a rope or any protection, on a tiny ledge on Half Dome some 1,800 feet off the Valley floor would soon grace the cover of National Geographic, and Outside magazine would run the feature “No Strings Attached” on Alex in its April 2011 issue. Fast-forward a couple of years, and Alex Honnold would be rock climbing’s closest thing to a household name. Surely he was capable of setting the speed record on the Nose.

    But as soon as I hung up the phone, I panicked. I’d made a rash, emotional decision. I went home after work and fretted to my wife, Jacki. She listened for about two minutes and then cut me off.

    “Honey, it’s not going to hurt anything if you speed-climb the Nose with Alex Honnold. And it will probably be a lot of fun.”

    I stood very still.

    “What about Yuji?” I said. In 2008 Yuji and I had set the Nose record time of 2:37:05, which was subsequently beaten by Potter and Leary by 20 seconds.

    “Write him a courtesy e-mail,” she said. “It’s not like you guys made a commitment to be speed-climbing partners till death do you part.”

    She was right. I exhaled.

    Alex and I met on October 13, 2011, to climb together for the first time—the Nose, of course. Alex was rock climbing’s biggest star, while I was the Nose Guru, the guy who’d climbed it 83 times. Yet on a clear fall day in El Cap Meadow, we were just two guys sorting gear and debating the rack.


    Alex has a certain mindset. Let’s call it minimal to the point of reckless. I understood his motivation—the less gear on your rack, the lighter and faster you climb. But I had a different perspective: Place enough gear so you feel safe, and you climb faster.

    The final 5.10b crack before the bolt-ladder headwall.“You’re bringing a two?” Alex asked, raising his eyebrows.

    The cam he was referring to is just about the most indispensable piece of gear for climbing the Nose—the device you jam into two-inch cracks, mainly about 100 feet of the Stove Legs.

    “Actually, I’m bringing two number twos,” I said.

    Alex’s eyes widened. “My hand fits perfectly into a crack that size,” he said. “So I’m all set.”

    Now it was my turn to raise an eyebrow. “This is a test climb, practice, remember? I’m bringing it.”

    Alex rolled his eyes. But he didn’t let up. “And why are we bringing number threes?”

    I sighed. It was the same reason. There are about 120 feet worth of three-inch-wide cracks in the Stove Legs. I knew Alex knew that.

    “Why wouldn’t we bring threes?” I asked, looking him square in the eye.

    He held my gaze. “What’s on the edge of your wrist?”

    I wondered if this was some kind of trick question. Before I could muster an answer, he said, “Your hand. It’s the same size as a number-two Camalot. Turn your hand to the side, and it’s the size of a three. Make a fist, and it’s a four. So there you have three pieces of gear that you are already equipped with since birth.”

    “OK,” I said, looking away to hide my grin. “Then maybe you should lead the Stove Legs.”

    I had to chuckle at Alex’s logic. And his nerve. I was 22 years his senior. I had started climbing before he was born. It wasn’t that Alex was disrespectful, but he had no qualms about challenging the status quo. I sensed that I needed to give him more than a cursory explanation.

    “Look, Alex, if I put more pro in, I climb better, I climb faster. It’s a peace-of-mind thing.”

    He paused, considering the statement. I could almost see his brain sucking in the piece of data, analyzing it against his own experience to determine its validity, and then spitting back out the answer.

    “I climb the same regardless,” he said.

    In 29 years of climbing, I have never met anyone like Alex. In the end he deferred to my judgment on how many pieces of gear to bring—at least on our first climb.

    Alec "No Big Deal" Honnold. Photo: Paul Hara.We set out in late morning, with one rope and a slightly pared-down rack. The plan was to climb the Nose the way Jim Herson and I had done it in 2001 when we took the record back from Dean Potter and Timmy O’Neill. I would take the first 16 pitches, to the King Swing, and Alex would take pitches 17 through 31.

    We worked the route like a puzzle, identifying exactly how and when the follower would give the gear he’d cleaned back to the leader. And we bickered over the finer details like an old married couple.

    “Alex, it’s easier if you use the bolt ladder on Changing Corners instead of free-climbing it.”

    “It’s no problem for me to free it,” he said.

    “I get that, but it takes less energy if you use a biner and just pull from bolt to bolt.”

    “Maybe for you, Hans, but you’re a lot older. It doesn’t feel any harder to me.”

    “That’s great, Alex, but it’s just plain faster to use the bolt ladder.”

    Even with all the discussion and process re-engineering, we topped out in 4:37. I felt pretty good about that.

    As we started the hike down, Alex said, “You place gear really fast.”

    “Is that a compliment or your way of giving me permission to carry up as many threes as I want?” I asked.

    “Neither,” Alex said, then broke into a giant grin. “No, both.”

    As we hiked down, I learned some interesting facts about Alex. He’d had an unusually high GPA in high school, like a 4.7, for excelling in so many advanced classes, but then dropped out of UC Berkeley because he felt it was a waste of time. He likes to read, and we like some of the same books, including Ayn Rand’s Atlas Shrugged. Like me, he lost his father too early. And like me, he is an atheist.

    Our similarities helped increase my comfort level in climbing with him. For atheists, there is no afterlife. This is it, so we tend to follow the motto carpe diem, or “seize the day.” But we don’t do it with reckless abandon. We’re very careful with our one life. Barring some crazy accident like Boot Flake peeling off the face of El Capitan, I knew I was safe with Alex.


    WE TRAINED over the next two weeks, whittling our time to 3:16, then 2:37:30—just 45 seconds shy of the record. While it would have been cool to take back the record that year, the winter weather moved in and shut down any further climbing in Yosemite. We agreed to continue our quest in 2012, as soon as the route was dry.

    During the winter and spring, I trained indoors at Diablo Rock Gym. As a dad with a full-time job, I found it great to have such a strong goal to work for in the spring to improve my fitness level. I was 47, and many of my friends were starting to slow down, exercising less, climbing easier or shorter routes, and getting, well, sedentary. Luckily, I had Alex sending me regular text messages to make sure my “psych is still high.” In other words, to check that I was continuing to bust my butt in the gym.

    I also spent time really dialing in the route in my mind, stripping it down to the exact pieces of gear I’d use on each of my 16 pitches. I made a list, by pitch, noting each piece I’d need, in the order I’d need it.

    The Big Stone, the <em>Nose</em> out front. Photo: Paul Hara.And I solicited advice from the experts, including Eric J. Hörst, the foremost authority on climbing fitness and the author of eight books.

    “You could shave five minutes off your time by sleeping at altitude,” he told me. I was intrigued but not ready to invest in a hypoxic chamber for my home. Translation: Jacki vetoed it as “ridiculous.”

    Bill Wright, my good friend and co-author of my speed-climbing book, flew out from Colorado for a reconnaissance climb with me on June 10, before Alex arrived. It was a good way to relieve some stress, scouting the Nose to make sure nothing had changed, and reminding myself of critical points of execution enroute. Mostly, I wanted to make sure I remembered exactly where I needed to place a piece of gear in the thin seam that leads to Boot Flake. There’s an exact spot where the cam fits, and if you don’t get it right, you waste time fiddling.

    When Alex showed up two days later, I felt comfortably tuned up from my climb with Bill and ready to get to it. Our plan was to attempt the record on Sunday, June 17, Father’s Day and the day before my 48th birthday. Weekends were always best for cheers of support, not only from friends and family but also the media, climbing-community supporters and tourists—the Race for the Nose had become that big of a public spectacle.

    Alex and I took a test run up the Nose on June 13 to see where we were process- and fitness-wise. It took us 2:53. We were 17 minutes and 8 seconds off the record, but it was an incredible start. On the hike down we brainstormed improvements.

    “I hate carrying gear on my shoulder,” Alex said, referring to the sling he wore to clip in the pro he cleaned when following. During my lead, in between pitches six and seven, he removed it and handed it back to me. I did the same for him at roughly the halfway point on his lead.

    “I could try to make something you wear around your waist,” I said. “But it needs to be something you can take off really fast so we don’t spend too much time handing over the gear.”

    “What if we just don’t hand over the gear?” Alex asked.

    Honnold tops out on the final bolt ladder. Photo: Paul Hara.“So I carry enough gear for all 16 pitches so I don’t need you to replenish me, and you just hold onto the gear you clean?”

    “Pretty much.”

    My initial reaction was “no way.” But Alex had earned enough of my respect that I stopped to think about it. It was certainly possible. And it would remove the two time- draining gear handoffs.

    “You’d have to pare down your rack, of course,” Alex added.

    “Of course,” I said.

    In reality, I’d have to add some pieces to be able to climb both my leads without replenishing my gear. But that was an argument for later.

    “Let’s try it,” I said.

    “How about tomorrow?” Alex asked.

    “How about a rest day first?” I said.

    It will be really good training to climb it while we’re tired,” Alex said.

    “Can you handle it if I’m so tired that it takes us like six hours?” I asked.

    Alex rolled his eyes.

    “I’m serious,” I said. “I need you to be prepared that it might take me that long.”

    “Yeah, yeah, Hans, whatever.”

    On Thursday we met in the morning and quibbled a bit. For my 1,600-foot block, I’d pared the rack to 16 cams, 22 quickdraws, three long runners with biners, and 11 free biners. That equates to one piece of pro per every 31 vertical feet—as light and fast as I was willing to go. As we set out, I felt physically beat but mentally amped to try a new method.

    On the wall I got a little spooked leading the Stove Legs. It was the one section where I would have liked to place more pro. A fall of potentially 50 feet would have most likely ended with a serious injury, and while I’d never fallen on the Stove Legs, the thought made me hesitant to climb at full speed.

    When we topped out, I ran hard for the tree, smacked it, and sat down. Alex watched as I pulled my stopwatch off the back of my harness, then pressed a couple of buttons to access the main menu to change it from “time of day” mode to “chrono” mode so I could stop the time.


    Despite having run the vertical marathon up the Nose the day before, we’d done it 14 minutes faster. To use Alex’s term, my psych level was high over eliminating the gear handoffs. I could only imagine how fast we could climb when we were fresh. We were definitely going to set a new record.

    But Alex looked upset.

    “You know it took you at least five seconds to stop the time,” he said, more a statement than a question.

    “Well, I switch it to time-of-day mode after I start it so it doesn’t accidentally stop if I bump it while I’m climbing,” I explained. “So when we’re done, I have to switch it back before I can stop the time.”

    “Dude, we need to time how long that takes and subtract it,” Alex said.

    He wasn’t kidding. And he had a point. In fact, I was kind of surprised I hadn’t thought of it. I reset the stopwatch, and we tested how long the fiddling took me: seven seconds.

    “We can deduct seven seconds on Sunday,” I said.


    I DROVE BACK to the Bay Area and caught up on work. The next day, Friday, I climbed a couple of easy 5.10s in the gym to stay loose. On Saturday I e-mailed everyone that I thought would care that we were going for the speed record on the Nose. Alex stayed in Yosemite and “recovered” by spending two days backpacking 18 miles in the high country of Tuolumne Meadows. When he came out of the wilderness, he was a bit taken aback by the level of publicity I’d garnered for our record attempt. He called me up, sounding nervous, which was unusual for a climber known among friends as Alex “No Big Deal” Honnold.

    “I don’t want a lot of people there when we start,” he said. “It might mess with my focus.”

    Recalling the bay-laurel crowns that friends presented to Tom Frost, Royal Robbins and Chuck Pratt on top of El Cap in 1961. Photo: Paul Hara.“But you want them there at the end?” I asked.

    “Yeah, of course. Whatever,” Alex replied.

    I paused, trying to come up with a solution or something that would put Alex more at ease. He spoke before I did.

    “Can we just tell everyone we’re starting at 7 a.m.? Then we’ll go early and start at 6 a.m.”

    I agreed.

    The plan didn’t work. When we arrived Sunday morning at 5 a.m., about a dozen people were already milling around the meadow. Fortunately, Alex handled it just fine. We started at 5:52 a.m., slightly ahead of schedule.

    About two-thirds into my lead, I reached the Stove Legs and summoned my courage. I needed to blast through hundreds of feet worth of cracks flawlessly and at warp speed, with only minimal gear.

    As Alex simul-climbed hot on my heels, I concentrated on jamming my hands and feet into the sharp crack, bloodying my ankle in the process. I took only one brief pause to catch my breath, noting that Alex would surely tease me about it later. But it was worth it to lower my heart rate and steady my breathing. There was an updraft in the Valley that day, which carried the cheers of the hundreds of people gathered in El Cap Meadow.

    When it was my turn to follow Alex, I drew on every ounce of physical and mental energy to keep up. As the follower, I was very aware that I was the one holding the Grigri, so safety was largely in my hands. Not only was I belaying, I was climbing at the limit of my cardiovascular ability. By the time I raced up the last pitch to the top, I was dizzy with exhaustion. And elated. I knew without even checking the time that we had the record.

    I hit the tree and stopped the watch, subtracting the agreed-upon seven seconds. I pulled out my phone and called down to Jacki, who was in the meadow with the kids.

    “2:23:46,” I told her.

    Alex and I had broken Stanley and Dean’s record by 12 minutes and 59 seconds.

    “I think it can go in under two hours,” Alex said.

    “Maybe next year,” I said, mostly kidding. “For now, let’s enjoy this.”

    We walked over to the edge of El Capitan so the people in the meadow could see us, standing side by side, our arms raised in victory against a cloudless blue sky. The wind pulled the roar of their cheers up to us. I realized then that this was a record that might last for a long time.


    HANS FLORINE is a climber, author, motivational speaker and manager of the Diablo Rock Gym in San Francisco. In addition to holding the speed-climbing record for the Nose, he has won three gold medals in X Games speed climbing.

    JAYME MOYE is an adventure writer based in Boulder, Colorado. For more, see onthenosebook.com.

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