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  • Canadians Free New Line On Chacraraju Este in the Cordillera Blanca
  • Results from U.S.A. Climbing Sport and Speed Youth Nationals 2017
  • The First Road Trip, Ever - Editor's Note #244
  • Second Gold for Garnbret and a First for Bombardi at Chamonix World Cup
  • Ondra Establishes Move Hard (5.15b), Makes Progress on "Project Hard"
  • Katie Bono Sets Bar for Women’s Denali Speed Record
  • Garnbret and Desgranges Win First IFSC Lead World Cup of the Season
  • Job Opening: Rock and Ice Magazine Advertising Manager
  • Karakoram: Climbing Through the Kashmir Conflict, by Steve Swenson
  • Search Called Off for Missing Climbers on Nanga Parbat
  • AAC Announces 2017 Craggin' Classic Series
  • Adam Ondra's Training Video Series
  • Jonathan Siegrist Sends Three Rifle 5.14d’s in Two Weeks
  • Mike Foley Sends Dreamcatcher (5.14d) in Squamish (with send footage)
  • Seb Bouin Completes 20-Year-Old Open Project in France
  • Shauna Coxsey Secures Bouldering World Cup Title in Navi Mumbai
  • Chris Sharma Establishes Deep Water Solo “Dream Line” in France
  • Q&A: Joe Kinder on Fat Camp (5.14d), Rifle and Route Development
  • Alex Megos Puts Up Clash of the Titans (9a+/5.15a) in Austria
  • Pirmin Bertle Establishes South America’s Third 9a - Ruta de Cobre
  • Quinn Brett Makes Rare Free Ascent of Spaceshot in Zion
  • Alex Megos Repeats Companion of Change (5.15a) In Three Days
  • Coxsey and Chon Victorious at 2017 Vail World Cup
  • LIVE STREAM: IFSC Bouldering World Cup, Vail, Colorado - FINALS
  • LIVE STREAM: IFSC Bouldering World Cup, Vail, Colorado - SEMIFINALS
  • VIDEO: First Teaser of Alex Honnold’s El Cap Free Solo
  • Top Climbers At World Cup in Vail, Colorado This Weekend
  • Alex Honnold, Freerider and What It All Means for Climbing
  • Alex Honnold – El Cap Free Solo Interview
  • Big Deal – Alex Honnold Free Solos El Cap
  • Steve McClure, 46, Establishes the U.K.'s First 5.15b, Rainman
  • Jon Cardwell, Sasha DiGiulian and Marcus Garcia Free Yosemite’s Misty Wall
  • Editor's Note: Rock and Ice 243 (July 2017) - Trundling Along
  • European Climbing Trips With Rockbusters: Learn With the Pros
  • Christof Rauch Puts Up Three V15s In Two Weeks
  • Marek Raganowicz Solos Two New Routes on Baffin Island
  • VIDEO: Piedra Blanca - Charlotte Durif Explores Puerto Rico
  • Alex Megos Onsights Second 5.14d!
  • Kai Lightner and Brooke Raboutou Win 2017 Dominion Riverrock
  • The Hillary Step: Gone, Altered, or Simply Hidden?
  • The Push: Tommy Caldwell and Alex Honnold on the Fitz Traverse
  • VIDEO: Above the Fray - Beth Rodden on Climbing, Kidnap and Motherhood
  • Seventh Time’s the Charm? Kuriki Poised for Everest Summit
  • The New Adaptive Foot: A Step Forward For Adaptive Climbing
  • Hong and Cardwell Establish Stocking Stuffer (5.14d) in Rifle
  • Four Medals for Japan and Gold for Rubtsov and Garnbret in Tokyo
  • Interview: Alex Honnold and the Kenya Expedition
  • American Climbers Crank in Spain This Season
  • Q&A: Jon Cardwell Sends Papichulo (5.15a) in Spain
  • Stefano Ghisolfi Makes First Ascent of One Punch (9a+/5.15a), Italy
  • Coxsey and Watabe Take Gold at 2017 Nanjing World Cup
  • Yoga for Climbers - Video Series
  • Ueli Steck Killed on Nuptse
  • Ethan Pringle Makes FA of Everything Is Karate (5.14+) in Bishop
  • Jonathan Siegrist Interview - Three 5.15s in Three Weeks
  • VIDEO: Jonathan Siegrist and the Art of Projecting - Pachamama (5.15a)
  • Jonathan Siegrist Sends Three 5.15's in Three Weeks
  • Tuck Fest Hosts First Comp on NC's Permanent Deep Water Solo Wall
  • EVENT: Leif Whittaker Comes to Carbondale, Colorado
  • Top Podium Spots for Garnbret and Chon at Chongqing World Cup
  • Adam Ondra Destroys Italy’s Hardest Climbs
  • Klemen Bečan Jumps Aboard the La Rambla Send Train
  • 2017 Piolets d'Or Awarded to British and Russian Teams
  • Jimmy Webb and Dave Graham Send Ill Thrill (8B+/V14) in Magic Wood
  • Trango Recalls New Vergo Belay Device
  • Alizée Dufraisse Sends Estado Critico (5.14d), Siurana, Spain
  • Outrage and Red Cards Mark the First IFSC World Cup of the Season
  • My Old Man and the Mountain, by Leif Whittaker (book excerpt)
  • Alexander Rohr Makes Third Ascent of Chromosome Y (9a/5.14d)
  • Alex Megos Establishes Chile’s First 5.14d, Pasito a Pasito
  • Wild Country Recalls Friends - Sizes 2, 3 and 4
  • Learn to Write with John Long
  • Taylor McNeill Repeats Webb's Engine Bloc (V14), Makes V14 First Ascent
  • Margo Hayes – La Rambla (5.15a) Interview
  • Golden Age Climbing Legend Royal Robbins Dies, Aged 82
  • Ashima Shiraishi, Kai Lightner Win 2017 Sport National Championship
  • Hueco Tanks Re-Opens The Five Bimbos to Bouldering
  • Access Fund Announces 2016 Sharp End Awards
  • Nathan Kutcher Establishes Alaska’s Hardest Mixed Line
  • Michaela Kiersch Sends Two 5.14c’s in One Weekend
  • Jeff Lowe Honored with Piolet d’Or Lifetime Achievement Award
  • VIDEO: Stefano Ghisolfi Sends Jungle Boogie (9a+/5.15a)
  • Nina Williams Completes Bishop Highball Trio with Ambrosia (V11)
  • Q&A: Matty Hong Sends La Rambla (5.15a) in Spain
  • Michaela Kiersch Sends "Savage" Twenty Four Karats (5.14c), RRG
  • Fifteen-Year-Old Laura Rogora Sends Joe-Cita (5.14d)
  • Margo Hayes Sends La Rambla (5.15a)!
  • Weekend Whipper: Adam Ondra Whips Off Neanderthal (5.15b)
  • After 20 Years of Waiting "Dreamline" (WI 6+) Comes True
  • Toru Nakajima Makes Fourth Ascent of Lucid Dreaming (V15)
  • Outdoor Gear Innovator Jack Stephenson Passes Away at 84
  • A Trip Across the Pond: Shauna and Leah Train U.S. Style
  • Events at Valdez Ice Festival Canceled Due to Unsafe Conditions
  • 2017 USA Bouldering Youth National Championships Results
  • Puccio, Coleman Take 2017 Bouldering Open National Championship
  • Stefano Ghisolfi Sends Sharma's First Round, First Minute (5.15b)
  • Seb Bouin Repeats Novena Enmienda (5.14d/5.15a) in Spain
  • Roland Pauligk, the Creator of the RP, Dies at Age 79
  • Hardest Female First Ascent Ever for 15-Year Old Laura Rogora?
  • 22nd Annual Ouray Ice Festival Delivers the Stuff
  • Chris Snobeck Sends Saphira (M15-), America’s Hardest Mixed Climb
  • Top 10 Climbing Videos of 2016
  • VIDEO: Jimmy Webb's Next Level Project And A Nasty Finger Injury
  • Jimmy Webb Repeats Kintsugi (V15), Makes V13 FA in Yosemite
  • Training For Climbing with Eric Hörst - Video Series
  • Alexey Dengin, WoonSeon Shin Start Ice World Cup Season with Golds
  • Life After Competition: Mélissa Le Nevé Climbs Her First 8B (V13)
  • Roadworthy - Our Top Travel Gear
  • Good-bye, Indian Creek – Excerpt from Luke Mehall’s Latest Book
  • 2017 Mugs Stump Award Recipients Announced
  • Jongwon Chon Continues Sending Streak with Second New V15
  • Anna Liina Laitinen Sends Southern Smoke (5.14c), RRG
  • Top 10 Weekend Whippers of 2016
  • Ice Climbing World Cup Comes to Durango, Colorado
  • Jongwon Chon Triumphs at La Sportiva Legends Only 2016
  • Jorg Verhoeven - Dihedral Wall Interview
  • El Cap’s Heart Route (5.13b V10) Sees Second Free Ascent
  • Adam Ondra – Dawn Wall Interview
  • Adam Ondra Sends the Dawn Wall!
  • Final Push – Day 6: Ondra Sends Crux Pitches, Reaches Wino Tower
  • Barbara Zangerl, Jacopo Larcher Free El Cap's Zodiac (VI 5.13d)
  • Final Push – Day 4: Adam Ondra Hits First Hurdle
  • Jorg Verhoeven Makes Second Free Ascent of Dihedral Wall (VI 5.14a)
  • Final Push – Day 2: Ondra Completes Pitches 10 Through 13 on Dawn Wall
  • Robbie Phillips Frees El Cap’s 30-Pitch Pre-Muir (5.13d)
  • Michaela Kiersch Sends Golden Ticket (5.14c), Red River Gorge
  • VIDEO: David Lama Attempts Southeast Ridge of Annapurna III
  • Final Push: Adam Ondra Blasts Up First Nine Pitches of the Dawn Wall
  • Wildfire Engulfs Popular East Coast Climbing Area
  • Ashima Shiraishi, Margo Hayes Dominate at 2016 Youth World Championships
  • Dawn Wall Update: Adam Ondra Prepares for Final Push
  • Climbers We Lost in 2016
  • Vandal Destroys Holds on Climbs in Little Cottonwood Canyon, Utah
  • The Gunks' New Hardest Climb: Bro-Zone (5.14b)
  • INTERVIEW: Jernej Kruder On Climbing Sharma’s “King Line” Es Pontas
  • Jernej Kruder Repeats Sharma’s “King Line” Es Pontas
  • VIDEO: Adam Ondra Onsights C'est La Vie (8c+/5.14c)
  • Joe Kinder Puts Up Bone Tomahawk (5.14d/5.15a)
  • VIDEO: Adam Ondra's First Ascent of Robin Ud (5.15b)
  • Steph Davis, Unpacked: From Desert Towers to Indian Creek Craggin'
  • Dave Graham Nabs Second Ascent of Creature from the Black Lagoon (V16)
  • Michaela Kiersch Sends Lucifer (5.14c), Red River Gorge
  • Nalle Hukkataival Sends World’s First V17
  • Ghisolfi and Garnbret Seize Golds at World Cup in Xiamen, China
  • Neil Gresham, 45, Establishes Sabotage (8c+/5.14c), Malham Cove
  • Dawn Wall Update: Adam Ondra Reaches Pitch 15 and Dyno Crux
  • Adam Ondra Makes Quick Progress on the Dawn Wall
  • Winners of the Rock and Ice / Mammut Photo Contest 2016
  • Dave Graham Establishes Topaz (V15) in Wild Basin, RMNP, Colorado
  • Best Mountaineering Article 2016 Award Goes to Jeff Long
  • El Cap Sees 90-percent Decline In Attempts Following Tom Evans’ Retirement
  • Red Rock Canyon Under Threat From Major Housing Development
  • Magnus Midtbø Finally Sends Thor's Hammer (~5.15a)
  • Chris Sharma Makes Second Ascent of Joe Mama (5.15a)
  • VIDEO: Stefano Carnati Climbing Le Cadre Nouvelle (9a/5.14d), Céüse
  • Matty Hong Sends Shadowboxing (5.14d) and Kryptonite (5.14d)
  • Adam Ondra Climbs New 5.15b, Onsights 5.14c
  • Isabelle Faus Sends Her Second V14, The Wheel of Chaos
  • Stefano Ghisolfi Bags Third Ascent of Jungle Boogie (5.15a)
  • Life and Death in the Karakoram: Climbing Latok I and Ogre II
  • VIDEO: Tom Randall and Pete Whittaker's "Crucifix Project"
  • Wide Boyz Establish World’s Longest Roof Crack - Crown of Thorns (5.14a)
  • Mark Anderson Sends Shadowboxing (5.14d), Rifle, Colorado
  • VIDEO: Kilian Fischhuber Repeats Rätikon's Headless Children (8b/5.13d)
  • Chris Sharma Sends Five-Year 5.15 Deep Water Solo Project
  • Daniel Woods Climbs Black 90 Project at V16
  • Marc-André Leclerc Solos Patagonia’s Torre Egger in Winter
  • Matty Hong Repeats Fat Camp (5.14d) in Rifle, Colorado
  • Banff Mountain Book Competition Announces 2016 Finalists
  • Remembering Kim Schmitz, by John Roskelley
  • Ondra Seizes Lead Championship, American Women Climb High
  • Roger Schaeli Makes Second Ascent of La Vida es Silbar, Eiger North Face
  • Ines Papert Makes Rare Ascent of Alpine Testpiece Scaramouche (5.13b/c)
  • Rob Collister: Gletscherhorn North Face, Swiss Alps
  • 2016 IFSC Climbing World Championships
  • VIDEO: Ryuichi Murai Sends Three V15’s In A Month
  • Ashima Shiraishi on Horizon (V15), Sleepy Rave (V15) & “Young Guns”
  • VIDEO: Chris Sharma Trains With Patxi Usobiaga For ‘Le Blond’ Project
  • Boardman Tasker Award for Mountain Literature 2016 Shortlist
  • VIDEO: Dave Graham Sends Monkey Wedding (V15), Rocklands
  • Search Called Off for Missing Pair in Pakistan
  • (Updated) Weather to Break, Helicopters Expected to Fly in Search for Adamson and Dempster in Karakorum
  • ​Tommy Caldwell Free Climbs Mount Hooker in a Day Car to Car
  • Domen Skofic, Magdalena Röck Victorious at Imst Lead World Cup
  • Alex Megos Flashes The Path (5.14 R) On Gear, Talks Fightclub (5.15b)
  • Coxsey, Narasaki Overall 2016 Bouldering World Cup Champions
  • Dave Graham Sends Old Nemesis, Monkey Wedding (V15)
  • Alex Megos Establishes Fightclub – Canada’s First 5.15
  • Margo Hayes, 18, Breaks the “Boys Club” of Bad Girls Club (5.14d)
  • Jon Cardwell Finishes Fat Camp (5.14d), Rifle First Ascent
  • VIDEO: Man Attempts to Climb Trump Tower, Gets Nabbed
  • Jan Hojer, Michaela Kiersch Win 2016 Psicobloc Masters, Park City
  • Miranda Oakley Breaks Women’s Solo Speed Record on the Nose
  • REEL ROCK 11 Film Tour Lineup
  • Taking Back the Record - The Nose, Yosemite
  • Sean Bailey, 20, Clips Chains on Biographie/Realization (5.15a)
  • LIVE: 2016 Psicobloc Masters
  • Ashima Tops Second V15, Sleepy Rave, Grampians, Australia
  • Tokyo 2020 Olympics Officially Approves Climbing
  • A Win for Tennessee Climbing: Denny Cove Protected
  • Megos Crushes Canada: Seven 5.14b’s in Four Days
  • Toshi Takeuchi, Shawn Raboutou Smash Spray of Light (V15)
  • Drew Ruana, 16, Sends Le Cadre Nouvelle (5.14d) in Céüse
  • VIDEO: Melissa Le Nevé on Training, Comps and Outdoor Projects
  • Dave Di Paolo, Carderock Hammer Killer, Sentenced to 10 Years
  • Climbers Spook Gunman, Allowing Hostages to Flee on Independence Pass
  • Adam Ondra Cranks 5.15a FA in Three Attempts, Onsights Two 5.14c's
  • VIDEO: Alex Megos Sends Ben Moon’s Infamous Hubble (5.14c)
  • Nalle Hukkataival, Vadim Timonov Send Monkey Wedding (V15)
  • Gary Falk, IFMGA Guide, Falls to Death on Grand Teton
  • Janja Garnbret Dominates Lead World Cup, Again
  • Sherpas on Denali: First Nepalese Ascent of the West Rib
  • Mich Kemeter Frees 14-Pitch Voie Petit (8b 5.13d) on Grand Capucin
  • Paul Robinson - South African Boulder Fiend and Visionary
  • Nalle Hukkataival Repeats The Dragon’s Guardian (~V15), South Africa
  • Sean McColl, Janja Garnbret Take Gold At 2016 Villars World Cup
  • Margo Hayes, Brian Huang Win USA Climbing Junior Sport Nationals
  • Seb Bouin Repeats Thor’s Hammer (~5.15a), Suggests Downgrade
  • Inspect Your DMM Climbing Harness
  • Slovenians Victorious at First Lead World Cup of Season
  • LIVE: IFSC Lead Climbing World Cup - Chamonix, France 2016 - Finals
  • Ashima Shiraishi Injured in 45-Foot Ground Fall
  • Weekend Whipper: Climbers vs. Trees
  • Adam Ondra Establishes The Right of Passage (5.14d), Flatanger
  • Sachi Amma Repeats Thor's Hammer (9a+ 5.15a)
  • Paul Robinson Establishes The Dragon’s Guardian (V15), South Africa
  • Three El Cap Routes in a Day for Brad Gobright and Scott Bennett
  • Q&A: Martin Keller, 39, Sends 13-Year Project Highlander (8C V15)
  • American Alpine Club Announces 2016 Craggin’ Classics
  • The Battle for Indian Creek: Bears Ears, Rob Bishop & the Access Fund
  • Jon Cardwell's Biographie (9a+ 5.15a) Training and Projecting Advice
  • Dave Graham Makes Third Ascent of Delirium (V15)
  • Caroline Gleich, World-Famous Ski Mountaineer, is a Trad Addict
  • Virtual Reality: Watch Alex Honnold Solo the Needles in 360-degrees
  • Bouldering Access is Back in Catoctin Mountain Park, Maryland
  • Adam Ondra Makes First Ascent of 120 Degrees (5.15a), Flatanger
  • VIDEO: Sean Villanueva O'Driscoll Loves Pain and Dirty, Wet Cracks
  • Klemen Bečan Sends Papichulo (5.15a), Disappointed With Ease
  • Margo Hayes, 18, Sends The Crew (5.14c) in Rifle
  • President Obama Takes Over Yosemite
  • Rustam Gelmanov Makes Second Ascent of Hypnotized Minds (V16)
  • RIP Ken Wilson: Editor of Mountain Magazine, Rabble-Rouser
  • Lena Herrmann, 22, Climbs 5.14c in the Frankenjura
  • The Desert – Excerpt from “American Climber” by Luke Mehall
  • Heather Weidner Sends China Doll (5.14a R) on Gear
  • INTERVIEW: USA Boulderers On the IFSC World Cup in Vail
  • Stefano Carnati Sends Action Directe (5.14d), Frankenjura
  • RIP: Nicholas Clinch, 85, Led Only American First Ascent of an 8000er
  • Jonathan Siegrist's Mission to Rediscover Switzerland's World-Class Sport Climbing
  • Megan Mascarenas Dominates 2016 Vail Bouldering World Cup
  • LIVE: IFSC Bouldering World Cup, Vail 2016 (Finals)
  • LIVE: IFSC Bouldering World Cup, Vail 2016 (Semi-Finals)
  • Mélissa Le Nevé, a Top-Three Boulderer at Vail World Cup, Talks Rock
  • VIDEO: Pump Control and Efficient Resting for Climbing
  • Virginia Sandstone Crag Opened to Climbing
  • Bouldering World Cup Comes to Vail, Colorado This Weekend
  • Alex Megos Sends Hubble (8c+), Northern Lights (9a)
  • INTERVIEW: Melissa Arnot on Climbing Everest Without Supplemental Oxygen
  • Dai Koyamada Establishes Nehanna (V14/15) in Japan
  • VIDEO: Daniel Woods on the Elusive V17 Bouldering Grade
  • VIDEO: Adam Ondra Makes Second Ascent of Geocache (9a+/5.15a)
  • Q&A: Jon Cardwell On Climbing Biographie/Realization (9a+/5.15a)
  • Adam Ondra Repeats Geocache (9a+/5.15a) in a Day
  • American Melissa Arnot Claims Mount Everest Record
  • Jon Cardwell Sends Biographie/Realization (5.15a)
  • Coxsey, Chon Win Innsbruck Bouldering World Cup
  • Nathaniel Coleman, Brooke Raboutou Win 2016 Riverrock Boulder Bash
  • Zimmerman, Wright Establish New Route in Alaska’s St. Elias Range
  • Three Dead, Two Missing and Hundreds Summit on Everest
  • Robbie Phillips and Jacob Cook Free El Cap’s 30-Pitch El Niño
  • VIDEO: Chris Sharma On His Santa Linya Project
  • Climbing and Mentorship Come Together at City Rocks
  • Japan Triumphs at Bouldering World Cup in Navi Mumbai
  • Silvio Reffo Sends Goldrake (5.15a), Cornalba, Italy
  • The Wizard - Dean Potter
  • The Great Unknown - Graham Hunt
  • Dean Potter: What I've Learned
  • VIDEO: Alex Megos Sends First Round, First Minute (5.15b)
  • Ofer Blutrich Sends Mind Control - First Israeli to Climb 5.14c
  • INTERVIEW: Sonnie Trotter on Freeing "The Prow," 5.14a Multi-pitch
  • Valley Walls: A Memoir of Climbing and Living in Yosemite
  • Block and Wall: Buildering and Raving in Trento, Italy
  • VIDEO: Adam Ondra Attempts The World's First 5.15a Flash
  • VIDEO: The Width of Life - Tribute to Dave Pegg, Colorado Climbing Legend
  • William Bosi, 17, Climbs Rainshadow (5.14d), Malham Cove
  • Shauna Coxsey Triumphs, Tomoa Narasaki Shocks at Chongqing World Cup
  • Alex Lowe's and David Bridges' Remains Found on Shishapangma
  • Mark Cole, Longtime Leader in SE Climbing, Passes at 58
  • The Greatest Boulderer You’ve Never Heard Of: Ryuichi Murai's on Fire
  • Alex Lowe Charitable Foundation's Khumbu Climbing Center Almost Complete
  • Climbers Remember Nepal on Anniversary of Earthquake
  • Shauna Coxsey Dominates at Kazo World Cup
  • VIDEO: Epic Climber - Sharma, Ondra, Digiulian, and Marin in Spain
  • Adam Ondra On Climbing In The Olympics
  • Crack School with Tom Randall and Pete Whittaker (Video Series)
  • Mary Harlan: Heartiness, Suffering and The Zion Link-Up
  • Chuck Pratt's "The View From Dead Horse Point"
  • VIDEO: Ethan Pringle Sends Meadowlark Lemon (V14), Red Rock
  • Megan Mascarenas Places Third At Meiringen Bouldering World Cup
  • VIDEO: Slow Details - 2016 Meiringen Bouldering World Cup
  • Tyler Armstrong, 12, Denied Permit to Climb Mount Everest
  • Drew Ruana Sends Five 5.14s, Onsights Four 5.13s at the RRG
  • Ryuichi Murai Sends Hydrangea (V15), His Third V15 in a Month
  • Roland Hemetzberger Frees 22-Year-Old Project, Outro (5.15a)
  • Everest's Icefall Doctors Establish 2016 Route Through Khumbu Icefall
  • Black Diamond Recalls Camalots/Camalot Ultralights, Ascenders and Via Ferratas
  • Glen Dawson, Sierra Nevada Climbing Pioneer, Dies at 103
  • Jim Curran, British Climber and Author of "K2, The Story of The Savage Mountain," Dies
  • Stefano Ghisolfi Sends Adam Ondra’s Goldrake (5.15a)
  • Access Fund 2016 Climbing Preservation Grants
  • Michaela Kiersch Sends Pure Imagination (5.14c)
  • Five New Mixed Routes in Pilot Creek, Wyoming
  • Allen Frame Hill, Climber-Filmmaker, Found Dead at Home
  • VIDEO: Profondo Sud - Bouldering in Basilicata, Italy
  • Ryan Vachon Makes Second Ascent of Saphira (M15-)
  • Adam Ondra Claims 5.15a/b and 5.14d First Ascents in One Weekend
  • Brooke Raboutou, Dru Mack Send Southern Smoke (5.14c) at the RRG
  • Durango Climbers Linkup Six Fisher Towers in Under 24 Hours
  • Margo Hayes Sends Pure Imagination (5.14c) at the Red River Gorge
  • VIDEO: Edu Marin Discovers His Limits On Alex Huber's Sansara (8b+/5.14a)
  • Matty Hong Sends Papichulo (5.15a) in Oliana, Spain
  • 2016 Piolets d’Or Award Recipients Announced
  • Jon Cardwell Sends Shadow Boxing (5.14d), Flashes Waka Flocka (5.14b)
  • Interview: Klemen Bečan on the First Ascent of Joe Mama (5.15a)
  • Ashima Shiraishi Sends V15!
  • Stefano Carnati, 17, Makes Quick Work of Goldrake (5.15a) in Italy
  • Margo Hayes, Sean Bailey Win USA Sport Open National Championships
  • Big Crowds, Big Money: Climbers Bring $3.6 Million to the RRG
  • Ethan Pringle and La Reina Mora – The Full Story
  • V15 Send Train by Adam Ondra, Sachi Amma and Jongwon Chon
  • The Bold and Cold: A History of 25 Classic Climbs in the Canadian Rockies
  • The 2015 Sharp End Awards from the Access Fund
  • Alex Puccio on Grade Chasing and Climbing Media
  • Magnus Midtbø Makes Fourth Ascent of Seleccion Anal (9a+/5.15a)
  • Daniel Woods Sends Papichulo (5.15a) in Oliana, Spain
  • Legendary Climber Cal Swoager Dies at 66
  • Klemen Bečan Puts Up New 5.15a in Oliana, Spain
  • Mayan Smith-Gobat and Ines Papert Repeat Riders on the Storm, Patagonia
  • Interview: Marc-Andre Leclerc Solos Three Routes on Stanley Headwall
  • Gaetan Raymond Repeats World's Hardest Dry Tooling Route
  • Nacho Sánchez Sends Catalán Witness the Fitness (V15)
  • First Winter Ascent of Nanga Parbat
  • The Final Frontier – Rumney, NH Land Purchase
  • Scott Cosgrove, Bold Yosemite Climber, Passes Away
  • Highlights from the 2016 Ice Climbing World Youth Championship
  • Felipe Camargo Repeats Catalán Witness the Fitness (V15)
  • Adam Ondra Repeats Sharma’s Stoking the Fire (5.15b)
  • Lucie Hrozová Establishes Hardest Mixed Climb in U.S.
  • ​Snowball Fight on K2: Interview with Pasang Lhamu Sherpa Akita
  • Drew Ruana, 16, Establishes Smith Rock’s Hardest Route
  • Pasang Lhamu Sherpa Akita Named Nat Geo Adventurer of the Year
  • Jimmy Webb, Charles Albert Repeat Fontainebleau's “Hardest Climb”
  • Alex Puccio, Jakob Schubert Win 2016 Hueco Rock Rodeo
  • Climbing Anchors and the Evolution of the Quad
  • Tom Ballard Establishes World’s Hardest Dry Tooling Route
  • Tim Emmett, Klemen Preml Establish 260-Foot WI 12 at Helmcken Falls
  • Jimmy Webb Sends The Big Island (V15), Toupie Carnivore assis (V14)
  • Kevin Lopata Sends Jour de Chasse (V15), Fontainebleau (with video)
  • Rocasolano Makes Second Ascent of Catalan Witness the Fitness (V15)
  • VIDEO: Jonathan Siegrist Sends Power Inverter (5.15a)
  • Black Diamond Recalls Carabiners, Quickdraws and Slings
  • Jimmy Webb Sends l’Alchemiste In Three Tries – Downgrades
  • Brette Harrington Free Solos Austríaca in Patagonia
  • Nathaniel Coleman, Megan Mascarenas Win 2016 Bouldering Nationals
  • Marianne van der Steen Flashes Kamasutra (D13+)
  • Alex Honnold and Colin Haley Repeat the Torre Traverse in a Day
  • Barefoot Climber First to Repeat Original l’Alchimiste (~V14)
  • Alban Levier Cranks Third Ascent of l’Alchimiste (V15)
  • New Big Wall Route Established on El Diente North Face in Mexico
  • Epic Ascent of Yosemite’s Ephemeral Widow’s Tears
  • Colin Haley on Patagonian Solo Streak
  • VIDEO: Tom Randall Takes Down the Kraken (V13)
  • Ryan Vachon Dominates 2016 Ouray Mixed Climbing Competition
  • Guillaume Glairon-Mondet Puts Up New V16 in Fontainebleau
  • Two Experienced Climbers Killed in the Scottish Highlands
  • Jimmy Webb Sends The Game (V15)
  • Siegrist Sends Power Inverter (5.15a), Flashes Fish Eye (5.14b) in Spain
  • Jakob Schubert Sends La Planta de Shiva (5.15b) in Spain
  • VIDEO: Ueli Steck - Accepting Risk, Reward & Danger (Part 4)
  • Epic TV's Top Three Training Videos of 2015
  • Chris Sharma Sends Catalan Witness the Fitness (V-Hard) in Spain
  • Alex Megos Sends First Round, First Minute (5.15b) and More
  • A Tribute: Doug Walker, First AAC President Killed in Office
  • VIDEO: Barefoot French Climber Sends V12 Traverse
  • Two-time Mugs Stump Award Winner Ryan Jennings Dies on Ice Climb
  • Climbers We Lost in 2015
  • VIDEO: Tragedy Strikes Ueli Steck’s 82 Summit Project
  • Climbers Against Cancer Founder John Ellison Dies
  • VIDEO: Alexey Rubtsov Climbs Three Magic Wood V14s
  • Ashima Shiraishi Sends Phenomena (V14) in 30 Minutes
  • Kayah Gaydish Climbing Accident Update
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    Climbers We Lost in 2014

    06-Jan-2015
    By

    Editors’ note: Such a list is never comprehensive. We may have inadvertently left out other climbers who died this year. Please add your own remembrances about any other—or the following—climbers in the comments. We welcome your additions, comments and images.

     

    Bill Putnam, 90, December 20

    Bill Putnam returning from Battle Abbey in the Selkirks. Photo Daniel Dibner.You gotta love a guy who nearly gets his dog into the American Alpine Club, back in the days when admission required resumes. Bill’s pooch, named Henry S. Pinkham, really had climbed many mountains in New England with him.

    “The Bear,” outspoken, deeply engaged and generous within many communities, contrary and gregarious, died within the same year as his wife, Kitty Elizabeth Putnam, to whom he was devoted.

    “Crusty on the outside, mushy on the interior,” said his longtime friend Jim McCarthy. McCarthy also noted that, in addition to Putnam’s many contributions to the climbing world, as sole trustee of the Lowell Observatory, in Flagstaff, Arizona, “he transformed the institution from a musty backwater research facility into one of the world's premiere astronomical observatories, with a very successful public outreach program.” The observatory was founded by his uncle Percival Lowell, astronomer and mathematician.

    A member of the prominent Lowell family in Massachusetts, William Lowell Putnam III, who maintained homes there and in Flagstaff, died December 20 after hitting his head in a fall. Putnam was president of the American Alpine Club (AAC) from 1971-73 and its 30-year American delegate to the UIAA, also representing Canada for many years. He also served as vice president of the UIAA Council.

    According to his bio on the AAC website, Putnam “made scores of first ascents in Western Canada” and produced several historical reference works on mountaineering there.

    “William was a great friend of the UIAA and one of its staunchest supporters,” the UIAA president Frits Vrijlandt posted. "He spent many decades representing the United States of America and Canada at the UIAA, making many friends and contributing greatly to the organization.”

    Putnam studied geology at Harvard, where he was president of the Harvard Mountaineering Club. During World War II he left his studies to volunteer in the elite ski and mountaineering corps known as the 10th Mountain Division, eventually sustaining a serious chest wound. According to wwllp.com, he received two Purple Hearts for injuries sustained and Silver and Bronze Stars for gallantry in action.

    Putnam founded the Springfield Television Corporation, the first television station in Springfield, Massachusetts, and added two more stations. A broadcaster through his main years of service to the AAC, he was in 2001 inducted into the Broadcasting Hall of Fame.

    His books on varied topics included A Century of American Alpinism and (co-written with Andrew J. Kaufman) K2: The 1939 Tragedy.

     


     

    Eric Bjornstad, 80, December 17

    Eric Bjornstad at home in Moab. Photo by Stewart Green.Most climbers know Eric Bjornstad for his classic comprehensive guidebook Desert Rock, but his first ascents ranged from the major desert spire Moses, in Taylor Canyon, Utah; to El Matador (later freed at 5.11) on Devil's Tower, Wyoming; to the Northeast Buttress of Mount Slesse in British Columbia.

    The rest of his life was at least as interesting and diverse as his climbs. The website for Adrift Adventures in Moab, where Bjornstad had lived since 1985 and had worked as a Jeep tour guide, states: “His early passions included poetry writing, chess, speed typing and classical music—playing both piano and oboe. He also sought physical challenges such as boxing, in which he excelled.”

    Bjornstad spent years in the Northwest, running coffee and tea houses, and for a time also owned a tea house in Moab. The Adrift site lists his past work as a draftsman, piano salesman, photo processor, gardener, bartender, dump truck driver, tree topper and handyman at a sorority, “to mention only a few.” He also produced and sold etched glass window hangings depicting Anasazi art. He was married and divorced three times, and had five children.

    Beginning in the late 1950s, Bjornstad lived in Seattle, where he taught climbing for the Seattle Mountaineers and began his alpine career. He and Fred Beckey, his best friend and climbing partner, co-authored the Climbers’ Guide to Leavenworth Climbing Areas.

    Bjornstad, featured in our “Lifers” photo essay in Ascent 2013, made a first winter ascent of Mount Robson in British Columbia and the second winter ascent of the West Peak of Moose's Tooth in Alaska. His desert years began in the late 1960 and led to many FAs including of Eagle Rock Spire in Monument Valley, Arizona, Echo Tower in the Fisher Towers, and The Bride in Canyonlands. Over the years he extended his desert guidebooks to four volumes.

    He spent his last years in a care facility, and died December 17.

     


     

    Dave Pegg, 47, November 8

    Dave Pegg. Photo by Duane Raleigh.Dave Pegg of Glenwood Springs, Colorado, was all sweetness and talent, and 100 percent climber, a contributor to our world in myriad ways.

    Dave was a first ascentionist, publisher, writer and head climbing-shoe reviewer at Rock and Ice, a familiar face in our offices and even more so at the local crags. A Yorkshire man by birth (you could hear it in his pronunciation of photo without the “t”), he first moved to Colorado from Sheffield, England, in 1996 to work for Climbing magazine. Five years later, he started Wolverine Publishing, writing, printing and distributing such high-quality color guidebooks as to elevate the whole field. Wolverine has 42 climbing guidebooks in print, as well as ski, cycling, hiking, kayaking and other books, and was a leader in early use of digital media.

    In Western Colorado, focusing on Rifle Mountain Park, he put up roughly 100 routes, and was a leading developer at such outlying crags as Main Elk, the Fortress and West Fortress, Hogwarts and the Distillery.

    He climbed as hard as 5.14, doing two of them—one in England, and The Gayness (5.14a) in Rifle, two decades apart, but is best known for his legion of high-quality FAs. Among those in England, the Yorkshire Ripper (5.13d) has gone down in lore. To thwart poaching efforts by the strong visitor Jean-Baptiste Tribout from France, Dave rapped down and smeared lip balm on the crux holds. He got the FA and Tribout the second ascent.

    Dave’s routes in Rifle, perhaps 40 in total, were consistently well-thought-out, and ranged from 5.11 to hard 5.13. They include Das Fruit Machine (5.13a), Bloodhound (5.12c), and the route extensions Don’t Point That Thing at Me (5.13c) and Hang ‘Em Higher (5.12d).

    He had, impressively, sent every climb (though not all the later extensions) at the 5.13-stacked stacked Project Wall, including Living in Fear (5.13d) as well as The Gayness.

    Dave was gentle, humorous, animated and friendly to all. He was also spacy, and absent-mindedly might leave his dog Bellatrix behind at the crag… or depart his house with the teakettle on … again. He was the heart of Rifle, starting its annual cleanup and serving as head of its Climbers’ Coalition.

    Struggling with depression, Dave took his life November 8, despite great care and concern from those close to him. His memorial was crammed with about 300 climbers, including from as far away as England.

    For some, Dave will always be defined by the five-part “Living with a VSC” (Very Serious Climber) series published intermittently in Rock and Ice from 2005 to 2013 by Fiona Lloyd about his obsessiveness yet cheer and guilelessness.

    You can read a long account of his life and nature, containing the best Dave Pegg story of all (hint: it involves a nuclear warhead), by Andrew Bisharat in our upcoming issue, No. 224.

     

    ==

     

    Mark Weber, 54, November 3

    Mark Weber. Photo courtesy Weber family.Mark was a lifelong climber, backcountry skier, hiker, biker and pro photographer who published images with Rock and Ice among many other venues. He died on November 3 of a heart attack.

    Weber had authored many of the routes and written the guidebook to the basalt playground of Dierkes Lake, Twin Falls, Idaho. His photographs also appeared in Nature’s Best Photography, Standup Journal, Outside, Sun Valley Guide, Outdoor Photographer, Climbing, Alpinist and Idaho Magazine.

    Wrote magicvalley.com, “His legacy lives on through his images and his children, Jedidiah, Jessica and Elijah,” all of whom grew up as outdoorspeople.

    Elijah, 29 and a strong climber, told Rock and Ice that one of his father’s mottos was, “A day on the couch is considered a day wasted.”

    Mark’s friend Andrew Stone tells us: “Mark was quite simply the best climber that I ever roped up with. He taught me that the way to stay out of the funk of fear and self-doubt was just to get to climbing with no hesitation.”

     

     

     

     


     

    Richard Harrison, 60, October 24

    Richard Harrison. Photo by Rick Accomazzo.Richard Harrison lived and climbed in Las Vegas for 35 years, pioneering at least 100 routes there, but he left his mark far more widely: in Suicide-Tahquitz, Joshua Tree, Yosemite and Tahoe, with further ventures to big faces in Mexico.

    The author of so many bold, hard routes in Red Rocks that any climber today will probably follow his path, Harrison was one of the original Stonemasters memorialized by the writer-climber John Long (who plans to write about him in our upcoming annual compendium, Ascent). Still, Harrison remains something of an unsung hero.

    He, Long and Rick Accomazzo all went to high school in Upland, California, and learned to climb together.

    “Ricky had all the talent,” John Long posted on Supertopo, “and Richard had all the commitment. I just talked loudly.”

    Harrison’s routes in Red Rocks include Adventure Punks (5.10d), Cloud Tower (IV 5.12a), Buffalo Wall (V 5.11 A3), Lone Star (IV 5.10+) and Sergeant Slaughter (V 5.10 A2) with Paul Van Betten and others; Rock Warrior (III 5.10) with Jay Smith and Nick Nordblom; and the Woodrow (5.10- R) with John Long. In Yosemite he established the classic Electric Ladyland (VI A4 5.10a), named for a huge thunderstorm, with Gib Lewis and Rick Accomazzo on Washington Column, and bold early 5.10s such as Greasy But Groovy with Long and Accomazzo, Shake and Bake with Accomazzo, and Spooky Tooth with John Yablonski and Fred East. He, Long and Accomazzo did the first free ascent of Le Toit (5.11c), a multipitch aid line with a roof high on Tahquitz, in 1973, and Harrison and Long freed the big second pitch of Iron Cross (5.11) on Suicide. The two also put up Imaginary Voyage (5.10d) in Joshua Tree in 1977. At Lovers Leap and in the greater Tahoe area, Harrison climbed many fine routes, including Purple Haze (5.10d) with Jay Smith, also in 1977. Another landmark was the first free ascent of D7 (5.11) on the Diamond Face of Long’s Peak, Rocky Mountain National Park, Colorado, with John Bachar in 1977.

    Harrison died unexpectedly October 24 only four days after his wife, Christina (“Tina”) succumbed to the depredations of a brain tumor. They had met 35 years ago in Yosemite, and leave a daughter, Lisa, 22, around whom the climbing community has rallied.

    An obituary in the Las Vegas Review Journal states: “He pioneered rock climbing in Red Rock National Conservation Area, establishing some of the area's most popular routes that are enjoyed today by climbers from around the world. … Off the rock, Richard loved listening to punk rock music and all types of racing, especially Formula One. He dabbled in motorcycle racing and had a passion for Porsches. His success on the rock was matched in business. For more than 20 years he ran his thriving window cleaning business.”

    Says Rick Accomazzo, “Whenever I caught up with him on the phone or in person over a 43-year time span, I’d ask about his family and what he had been doing. He’d chuckle and his response was always the same, ‘Family’s great and you know, the usual: been doing some new routes.’ Richard was dedicated to the climbing life like no one I’ve known, except [John] Bachar. Yet for how much he loved climbing, you got the contradictory sense that he never took it too seriously and appreciated the underlying absurdity of risking life and limb to struggle up some piece of rock. So he really couldn’t be bothered to spend time discussing himself or his climbs in the climbing media or guidebooks. The focus was always on the next climb, the next new route, preferably partnered by his wonderful daughter, Lisa.”

     


     

    Ross Halverson, 31, September 7

    Ross Halverson. Photo by Michael May.Ross Halverson, 31, a fixture at the Vertical World climbing gym, Seattle, died September 7 in a rappelling accident on Mount Garfield in the Cascades.

    Says his friend Tyson Schoene, “Ross was a beloved coach and outstanding routesetter. He spent all of his time in the mountains when he wasn’t mentoring young climbers. He was a very accomplished mountain runner, skier and climber. His hard work and dedication have influenced many in our community.

    “It’s hard for me to explain what he meant to me and the rest of our climbing team. He was one of my best friends, my right-hand man, and the softer side of who I need to be. His commitment and passion were infectious. His legacy lives on in the kids he worked with. He is missed in our gyms every day.”

    Ross Halverson, of North Bend, Washington, and a friend were rapping the 23-pitch route Infinite Bliss (5.10c R) in the face of encroaching darkness when the accident occurred. He missed a rappel station and possibly rappelled off the end of his rope, though his friends think that scenario unlikelygiven his habits of caution and double-checking, or he may have gone off it deliberately intending to down climb the last 15 feet. Whatever happened was an aberration.

    Ann Vogel, whose daughter learned from Halverson, told the Kitsap Sun, “He was just a superb rock climber, as well as a superb youth coach.”

     

    ==

     

    Brian McCray, 45, August 23

    Brian McCray. Photo by Ammon McNeely.Brian McCray, 45, was known, in almost an underground way, as a great all-arounder. But upon his death, with his feats compiled in many tributes, his achievements were stunning: First 5.14, Proper Soul, in the New River Gorge, in the 1990s, among scores of still testy and rarely repeated routes that brought the area to a whole new level. Seven El Cap speed records (including four first one-day ascents, one being the Wall of Early Morning Light) with Ammon McNeeley in the early 2000s. The FA of Isaac's Stigmata (VI 5.11R A4+), Zion, in 2000, and the 1999 Sauron's Eye (VI 5/10+R A4) in Red Rocks, ultimately completed solo after McCray earlier rescued his partner, Warren Hollinger, when he broke his back. Hundreds of sport routes. The FA, in 1999, of the monster route The Useless Emotion (VII 5.9 WI4 A4), the Bear's Tooth, Ruth Glacier, Alaska, with Jim Bridwell and others.

    “It was McCray’s first alpine climb; he led more than half the climb,” reported the American Alpine Journal.

    McCray had learned to climb in the early 1980s in Seneca Rocks, West Virginia, and from then on, he climbed all the time: everything, anything.

    Wrote Kenny Parker of Waterstone sports store, Fayetteville, West Virginia: “Flyin’ Brian McCray was the most motivated, psyched climber I have ever known. A lot of climbers are good, as in talented, and a lot are just so motivated they look good. Flyin’ Brian was both. His determination was inspiring. …. He just had a sense about him that he could do it all, which he basically went on to do.”

    McCray was a climbing-shoe re-soler and rigger. Florence Rogers, his partner in Las Vegas, his home and latest climbing venue, says, “At the time of his death he could pick and choose rigging gigs while ‘saving soles’ out of a workshop attached to a house he’d expertly rehabbed out of foreclosure. The same tenacity he applied in climbing was evident in anything he put his mind and hands to. He built an E-Bay business buying and selling esoteric books, art and specimen minerals. He had become a stealth purchaser of up and coming artists in Los Angeles and Las Vegas. From time to time he made his own paintings. He always had a book—or four—on the go ranging from Cormac McCarthy to Christopher Hitchens to some ancient treatise on alchemy. His own accounts of his climbing trips revealed a compelling storytelling voice and a window into his mischievous sense of humor. … and he could hold a conversation with absolutely anyone.

    “He was a renaissance man, constantly curious and ultimately fearless in the face of death itself.”

    McCray took his own life.

     


     

    Brad Parker, 36, August 16

    Brad Parker in Indian Creek. Photo by Jerry Dodrill.Brad Parker asked his girlfriend, Jainee Dial, to marry him on the summit of Yosemite’s Cathedral Peak. She said yes. Since he was training for a bigger climb to be undertaken with his friend Jerry Dodrill, Parker carried on alone and ran the three miles to Matthes Crest. He died in a fall while soloing the 5.7 traverse.

    Dial wrote to Rock and Ice, “He was a caring friend, a passionate yoga teacher, a healer, and a bad-ass outdoorsman with a deep commitment to living boldly and loving deeply.”

    Parker, 36, had climbed all over the world, and in 2012 was featured on the cover of California Climbing Magazine. According to The Press Democrat, Parker took two years after college to travel, going to destinations like Thailand and New Zealand. His Facebook page is crowded with photos of him surfing.

    His closest friends spoke to his commitment to making the world a better place. They and family have created a foundation in his honor that organizes projects that support community wellness, outdoor adventure, and environmental stewardship. Visit the B-Rad Foundation.

     


     

    Cole Kennedy, 24, July 14

    Cole Kennedy. Photo courtesy Kennedy family.Cole Kennedy, a graduate in physics from Colorado College, was an ardent climber and skier, his Facebook page overtaken by photos of him and friends bouldering and descending snowy summits.

    Kennedy, 24, died July 14 in an ice avalanche on Pirámide de Garcilaso in the Cordillera Blanca mountain range Peru, devastating his friends and fellow climbers in Colorado Springs, where he lived after growing up in Castle Rock.

    “As a mom, I can tell you he was outrageously smart, good-looking, level-headed, and funny with a sarcastic edge,” Karen Kennedy wrote to Rock and Ice. “He loved traveling, climbing, skiing, cooking, IPA beer and pub trivia.”

    Cole’s father, Jim, wrote, “Cole was really focused on his climbing over the last year or so. I remember how proud he was when he redpointed his first 5.13b and finished a V11 boulder project he was working on.”

    After the accident friends posted eulogies on Cole’s Facebook wall that testified to his humor, loyalty and adventurous spirit.

    “As a climber, you were always cool under pressure,” wrote John Collis, Cole’s best friend and his climbing partner when he died. “I could always count on you to have a cool head whether you were on a route with me or in front of an administrator who was looking for answers about how a keg could have found its way onto the roof of an academic building.”

    “He lives on through the people he touched,” Hannah Marshall, Cole’s girlfriend, wrote. “Through snarky one-liners, and our callused, swollen and bleeding fingertips, through every IPA we drink and pool game we play, every peak we summit, and, perhaps, in alphabetically organized record collections.” 

     

    ==

     

    Richie Copeland, 50, May 18

    Richie Copeland. Photo by Joe Reidhead.On May 18, Richard Copeland, a beloved Yosemite regular, fell to his death traversing an exposed ledge to reach the Southwest Face of Liberty Cap in Yosemite.

    Joe Reidhead, Copeland’s partner that day, recalls this line in a letter Copeland wrote a week before his death: "Climbing is about lifestyle even more than the climbing itself!"

    “Rich lived these words,” Reidhead tells Rock and Ice in an e-mail. “He knew that life is fun, even when suffering. The last words Rich said were, with a laugh and his infectious smile, ‘I love thrashing through manzanita.’ His love for friends, adventure, teaching, and the world was limitless. A true hero and hardman in an age when there are too few, he endeavored to inspire this love and joy for life in everyone.”

    Among Copeland’s accomplishments were two winter attempts on the North Face of Mount Hooker, over 20 ascents of El Capitan, and these first ascents on Yosemite's big walls: the Direct North Face (VI 5.8 A3, 2012) on Porcelain Wall with Erik Sloan, Good Ol' Boy (V 5.8 A2, 2012) on Camp 4 Wall with Sloan, and Call of the Yeti (VI 5.8 A2, 2014) with Gabriel Mange and Luke Smithwick on Lost Brother. He made a solo ascent of Zenith on Half Dome (VI 5.8 A4, 2004). Rich also did “countless” ascents on the sandstone and limestone of southern Missouri and southern Illinois.

    Copeland was a dedicated mentor, taking many “newbies” under his wing. He worked at the Montecito Sequoia Lodge in Sequoia National Forest, teaching climbing, mountain biking, snowboarding, and other activities to youth and adults.

    As a devoted steward, he replaced hundreds of anchors and worked to maintain trails. He was one of those behind setting up the controversial but popular El Cap Swing, done with his usual flair in orange bell-bottom jeans.

    From Reidhead: “Richard Copeland. Rich. Richie. The Dude. Carni Man. Raspberry Crumblecake. We miss you. Your death extinguished a blazing light in this world. But I know it burns on another wall. I only hope that you brought enough cam shackles and bear grease.”

     


     

    Adrianne Wadewitz, 37, April 8

    Adrianne Wadewitz. Photo by Peter B. JamesAdrianne Wadewitz was a prominent Wikipedia editor who provided over 50,000 edits to the articles about 18th-century female writers and had authored 36 “featured” articles, in which other Wikipedians choose a work to published on the home page of the website.

    Yet in addition to photos of her teaching classes about Wikipedia and feminist scholarship, her Twitter page includes videos of the young climber Ashima Shiraishi and links to Wadewitz’s detailed article on Steph Davis, climber and BASE-jumper.

    Adrianne, 37, died April 8 after sustaining a head injury in a fall 10 days earlier in Joshua Tree National Park in California.

    Sage Ross, a Wikipedia colleague, wrote on her blog after the accident that her friend had been “thoughtful and incredibly sharp.”

    “I remember her unfailing kindness and generosity, indomitable work ethic, and voracious appetite for knowledge.”

    Wadewitz had begun climbing two years prior, taking classes indoors, continually working with an instructor to improve. A Mellon Postdoctoral Fellow at Occidental College, she took the lessons she learned climbing— the importance of having goals, embracing failure and celebrating successes—back to her students.

    “[O]ne of the most empowering outcomes of my year of climbing has been the new narrative I can tell about myself,” she wrote on her blog. “I am no longer ‘Adrianne: scholar, book lover, pianist, and Wikipedian.’ I am now ‘Adrianne: scholar, book lover, pianist, Wikipedian, and rock climber.’”

     

    ==

     

    Matt Hegeman, 38; Eitan Green, 28; Mark Mahaney, 26; Uday Marty, 40; Erik Britton Kolb, 34; May 31.

    Matt Hegeman. Photo courtesy Ericka Hegeman.On May 31, a group of six climbers, apparently swept down by icefall or avalanche in the night, fell more than 3,300 feet down the steep north slope of Mount Rainier. The Alpine Ascents International group had been climbing the challenging Liberty Ridge.

    For our news story on the accident, click here.

    In August, three bodies were recovered after they were spotted during a training flight. They were identified as Mark Mahaney, 26, of St. Paul, Minnesota; Uday Marty, 40, of Singapore; and John Mullally, 40, of Seattle. Also lost were Erik Britton Kolb, of Brooklyn, New York, and the two guides, Matthew Hegeman, 38, of Truckee, California, and Eitan Green, 28.

    Hegeman, the lead guide, had climbed the mountain more than 50 times, as well asin Patagonia, the Alps, and Yosemite, where he had done El Capitan five times, once solo. He was an AMGA-certified rock and alpine guide practicing in the Sierra, the Cordillera Blanca in Peru, Mount Vinson in Antarctica, and Aconcagua in Argentina.

    In a eulogy, his friend Jonathan Spitzer celebrated “the laughter, the adventures, and of course the bullshitting we used to do while drinking whiskey. [Matt’s death] has made me remember the time we road-tripped through the Utah desert where the memories are not so much about the beautiful desert sandstone towers we climbed but more about the friendship we had created. I thought about the first time I met Matt and I can still see that big friendly smile and hear the sound of his voice telling funny stories.”

    Zach Summit and (right) Eitan Green. Photo by Zach Summit.Eitan Green, the other guide, was a 2009 magna cum laude graduate of Colby College who won the Anthropology prize. As a senior, he wrote an honors thesis discussing the global climbing community.

    Eitan had previously guided rock with Acadia Mountain Guides, and ice with the International Mountain Climbing School in North Conway, New Hampshire. He had climbed Rainier over 40 times, and in the Alaska Range and Patagonia.

    A remembrance on http://www.wbur.org discussed his intelligence (including social) and meticulous preparedness as a mountain guide, and told this story:

    “When his mother turned 60, Eitan took her on a backpacking trip through the Northern Cascades. He chose a path and a pace so she wouldn’t feel winded. He wasn’t fond of level hiking himself—too horizontal for him—but he wanted her, like everyone else he led, to feel sure-footed in the midst of wild beauty.”

    Mark Mahaney from his Instagram account.See our obituary here. 

    Mark Mahaney, a quality-assurance analyst for the high-tech company GovDelivery Inc., was an avid climber. His Instagram account is packed with images of him on technical ice flows, and he had climbed Rainier by another route in 2013 as well as Denali in Alaska, according to statements by his family, but wanted to return to Rainier and complete the technical Liberty Ridge. His family in a written statement called climbing “his true passion in life.”

    In a Facebook post before the ascent, for which he trained by biking 20 to 30 miles a day, according to his home newspaper, the Star Tribute, he wrote, “Nothing will be easy on this climb.”

    He was a member of Vertical Endeavors climbing gym in Saint Paul.

    Uday Marty, was an Intel Corp vice president, overseeing microchip-manufacturing operations in Southeast Asia. “Love the mountains yet live in Singapore,” he wrote on Twitter, while Intel called him “an accomplished engineer and manager.” An award-winning employee, he had been with Intel for 18 years. He described himself “an active mountain climber/hiker/runner and love dabbling in various languages.”

    Uday Marty, Intel photo. Bill Calder, Intel spokesperson, told the Associated Press, that Marty was "widely loved and respected at this company.”

    "He was a guy with a great attitude, and he always had a big smile," Calder said.

    John Mullally, was a longtime Microsoft employee and a rock and ice climber, boulderer, biker and runner. His wife, Holly, tells Rock and Ice that he had attained three previous summits of Rainier (twice on the Disappointment Cleaver route, once on the Emmons/Winthrop route, also Aconcagua via the Polish Glacier, Mount Baker twice, Mount Adams, and Rainier and Stuart each three times.

    Says his wife, Holly, “John was happiest on the trail. When [daughter] Isabella was 4 and Melanie was 1, we took them backpacking. We had to carry huge packs, as Melanie herself had to be carried. John loved the Cascades and backpacked all over.”

    Holly and John Mullally on the summit of Mount Stuart. Photo courtesy Holly Mullally.Holly and both daughters are climbers. John and Holly climbed Mount Stuart together in a day, via Cascadian Couloir. “He always said it was one of his favorite climbs ever.”

    Erik Kolb, a financial manager at American Express, was an experienced hiker and an adventurous individual who had traveled extensively to places as disparate as Jordan and Tanzania, with a trip planned to Peru.

    His family sent us this statement: "Erik was a smart, gentle and generous man whose warmth and kindness touched the lives of all who knew him. He was an avid outdoorsman with a passion for new and exciting experiences."

    He lived with his wife, Lisa.

     

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    Sean Leary, 38, March 13

    Sean Leary. Photo by Dean Fidelman.Sean “Stanley” Leary died March 13 in a wingsuiting accident in Zion National Park, Utah.

    Leary, whose website gives the motto “Live for Adventure,” was one of the great climbers of his generation, possessor of five El Cap speed ascents among a total of 70-plus ascents of the monolith, and hard trad and sport FAs around the world.

    "In some ways Sean was a hard guy for me to climb with because he was so good,” Yosemite’s Chris McNamara tells Rock and Ice. “It was too easy to let him take more than his fair share of pitches because he was just so much faster. But he was so modest, it always felt like we were climbing together, even though he was so much better on the bold and free stuff.”

    Among Leary’s multitude of climbs are the first free ascent of Easy Rider (VI 5.12), El Capitan, Yosemite, with Dean Potter; a 20-pitch first ascent on the Great Cross Pillar, Sam Ford Fjord on Baffin Island; an FA of the East face of La Espada, Torres del Paine, Patagonia; and the FFA of the Bonington-Whillans Route (Grade V 5.11), Torre Central, Chile.

    He climbed three El Capitan Grade VI routes—the Nose, Salathé and Lurking Fear, with Alex Honnold in under 24 hours in 2010, and two years earlier had linked Half Dome and Freerider (Grade VI 5.12d) on El Capitan, with Leo Houlding.

    He was an integral part of a 5.12 first ascent of Cerro Autana, Venezuela, in 2012, and, the following year, the FA of the Antarctic peak Ulvetanna, both times with Leo Houlding, Jason Pickles et al.

    Says Russ Mitrovich, big-wall and expedition partner: "He had this raw ability. When he put in the first speed ascent of Wyoming Sheep Ranch, he [did] 20 feet of hooking, got impatient, then decided to free the rest of the A4 pitch. Once he forgot the large cams on Native Son and had to free the offwidth without gear for 100 feet. …. Sean had a natural artistic talent that shone through in all his pursuits, from his garden at home to his incredible gymnastics on the rock."

    While many people these days climb hard, Leary seemed to climb hard in any conditions, to an outrageous extent.

    Alastair Lee, U.K. filmmaker and expeditionary, tells us: "There seemed to be a direct relationship between worsening conditions and Stanley's performance. The more hostile it got, the more Stanley would rise to the occasion. [On Baffin Island] Stanley [drew] on all his superman powers to climb 5.12d in the freezing dampness. One of the most memorable pitches I have ever filmed. I was filling my trousers from the exposure.”

    See Rock and Ice issue number 221 (October 2014) for a feature article by James Lucas on Sean Leary.

    Leary was married to Annamieka Simmons Leary. Their son, Finn, was born after his death.

     


     

    Charlie Porter, 63, February 23

    Charlie Porter during the second ascent of <em>Tis-sa-ack</em>, Yosemite. Photo by Jack Roberts.The New York Times called Charlie Porter, who died in Punta Arenas, Chile, “a mystery man.” He was the outsider who arrived to take Yosemite by storm, in the early 1970s putting up major El Cap routes: the Shield, Zodiac, Tangerine Trip, Grape Race and Mescalito.

    He climbed Mount Asgard, Baffin Island, solo in 1975, and in 1976 became the first person to solo the Cassin Ridge on Denali in 1976.

    He was a boat captain, boat builder and climate-change scientist, who, according to The New York Times, “made botanical and oceanographic surveys of the South American coastline, guiding visiting scientists through the maze of Chilean fjords and channels in the Tierra del Fuego archipelago. In recent years, he helped conduct climatological studies—setting up weather stations and glacier monitoring networks—in affiliation with the Climate Change Institute at the University of Maine.”

    Click here to read our obituary and an in-depth interview.

     

     

     

     

     

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    Chad Kellogg, 42, February 14

    Left to right: Lara Kellogg, Chad Kellogg, Joe Puryear, Dee Patterson, Mike Gauthier, Stoney Richards and  David Gottlieb, all climbing rangers on Rainier at the time. Photo by Mike Gauthier.Kellogg’s last decade was peppered with tragedy. In April of 2007, Kellogg’s wife, Lara Karena (Biteniecks) Kellogg, a climber, scientist and Rainier guide, died in a rappelling accident on the Northeast Ridge of Mount Wake, the Ruth Gorge, Alaska. Her death was not made public for five days, until Kellogg could be reached where he was climbing in the Sichuan Province of Western China. One of his closest friends, Joe Puryear, was also killed in the mountains, in Tibet three years ago. Kellogg had lost his brother to an early death and he himself survived colon cancer, diagnosed just months after his wife’s death.

    Kellogg, from Seattle, and his friend Jens Holsten of Leavenworth, Washington, had climbed the Afanassieff route on Fitz Roy in Patagonia and were descending at night when they pulled a stuck rappel rope, dislodging a block that hit Kellogg.

    Dan Nordstrom, owner of Outdoor Research, called Kellogg “an inspiration.”

    “I've long believed one of the things that differentiates most elite athletes from the rest of us,” Nordstrom’s post continued, “is the mental ability to find joy in mind-boggling amounts of training. Chad's training was truly legendary around the Seattle climbing community. I would see him at Vertical World doing 20 laps of overhanging 5.11+, and then he'd mention that he was about to do Rainier three times in a row—from White River up the Emmons glacier to the summit to Camp Muir and Paradise and back and then back again, 28 hours or so. Seriously.”

    A onetime climbing ranger on Mount Rainier, Kellogg was first to climb that mountain in sub-five hours.

    Mike Gauthier, chief of staff in the superintendent’s office in Yosemite National Park, recalls meeting Chad in a first-aid class when both were teenagers, then seeing him often out cragging. “Finally in 1996 I convinced him to become a climbing ranger. We had an incredible team or climbers/rangers for about five years at Rainier.” (One was Lara.)

    Kellogg, like Alex Lowe, Conrad Anker and Denis Urubko before him, won the Khan Tengri speed competition (2003); and he was first to climb Denali’s West Buttress round-trip in sub-24 hours. He tried three times for speed records on Mount Everest, and intended a fourth effort.

    Kellogg’s many alpine climbs included: the FAs of Pangbuk Ri, Nepal, 2007; the Black Crystal Arete on Kichatna Spire, Alaska, 2005 (with Puryear); the Southwest Ridge of Siguniang in China, 2008; and the Medicine Buddha on the South Face of Aconcagua, 2009.

    After his Everest attempt in May 2013, Kellogg admitted his disappointment in a blog post, but adding that he was happy to be healthy and coming home. “[T]he only thing you can hope to control in this life is your mind. … There will be other climbs and trips to be made because I made the right decisions. I have all my fingers, toes and appendages. I learned and progressed as an athlete and as a human being. After all, life is about living for each moment. I do not have any regrets, as each moment is a gift.”

    He left his parents and family; his partner, Mandy Kraus; and a hard-hit Seattle climbing community.

    See our news report at the time here.

     


     

    Jay Renneberg, 43, January 29

    Jay Renneberg on the Lost Arrow. Photo by Akio Joy. “Jay was above and beyond generous, kind, and stoked to help a college kid he hardly knew,” wrote one Supertopo poster. “My sincerest condolences to everyone who had the pleasure to meet such a superb human being.”

    Stoke is a word commonly used, yet almost not strong enough, to describe “Ghoulwe Jay,” part of a California climbing group or club that once, in a late-night moment, melded the words “couloir” and “gulley” to form the name. Renneberg, a Sacramento-based climber, was the type of swashbuckling character of whom novels are written and movies made. He won and lost fortunes, drove fast, and entertained hosts of climbers with his humor and tales. He once rescued two climbers while out on a casual solo day on Washington’s Column. Yet as high-spirited as he was, he was alone in many ways, and in the end chose to end his life. His adventuresome spirit is captured in this obituary by Greg Crouch. 

     

    Click here to read more on Jay Renneberg.

     

     


     

    Mark Hesse, 63, January 27

    Mark Hesse. Photo courtesy Rocky Mountain Field Institute.    Mark Hesse, a lifelong rock and mountain climber, died January 27 in a fall in the Boulder Rock Club climbing gym. He climbed landmark routes such as Tulgey Woods (sandbag 5.9) at Devil’s Tower, Wyoming, as early as 1972, with many FAs in the Utah desert and South Platte. In the mountains he soloed Denali’s South Face and was part of the bold and committing alpine-style first ascent of the Northeast Buttress of Kangtega (22,251) in Nepal with Jay Smith, Craig Reason and Wally Teare. Yet he is best known for his incredible stewardship efforts.

    A longtime resident of Colorado Springs, Colorado, Mark saw early on that climbing’s popularity would to create a need for systematic cliff maintenance and trailbuilding, and made himself a leader in such work. In 1982 he founded the American Mountain Foundation to support expeditionary climbing, and 15 years later changed the group’s name to the Rocky Mountain Field Institute, and its focus to education, sustainability and organized maintenance of climbing areas.

    Two years ago he retired and moved to Boulder, and immediately began helping with Access Fund trailwork efforts there.

    Rebecca Reed Jewett, executive director of the Rocky Mountain Field Institute, told the Boulder Daily Camera: "He loved being in the field working on projects. He would spend all day moving rocks and material, and even when the rest of us thought we put in a good day 's work and it was time to go back to camp and eat dinner, Mark would stay until dark. He was incredibly passionate about the work and just loved the outdoors."

    See our obituary here.

     

    Climbers We Lost in 2015

     

    Climbers We Lost in 2013

     

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