No items found.

  • Ryan Vachon: Top Ice Climber and Climate Scientist
  • John Long: What I've Learned
  • Topropers Unite!
  • Steep Learning Curve: Alex Honnold On His Early Free-Soloing Days
  • Andy Kirkpatrick - Words Like Morphine
  • Margo Hayes and the Power of the Mind
  • Snapshot: Michaela Kiersch - The Chicago Hustle
  • Out of Nowhere - Nathaniel Coleman Jumps Onto the Podium
  • Jeff Lowe: What I've Learned
  • The Cheater - Learning to Climb for Myself, the Hard Way
  • What I've Learned: John Bachar's Last Interview
  • Art of the First Ascent: The Bold Climbs of Marcus Garcia
  • The Professional: Hilaree O'Neill
  • The Inventor: Alan Douglas
  • The Advocate: Nicholas Rothenbush
  • The Guide: Kris Erickson
  • The Craftsman: Jimmy Chin
  • Curious Case: Brette Harrington Breaks New Ground
  • Stefano Ghisolfi - One of The World's Best Makes Time For Fun
  • Kai Lightner Reflects on Competitions, Bouldering and the Future
  • The Locomotive: Roy McMurtrey – 87 and Still Climbing
  • No Expectations: Joe Kinder Sends 6 5.14c's in Spain
  • Spotlight: Megan Mascarenas - The Logician
  • Alpine Warriors - History of Alpinists in Yugoslavia
  • Q&A: The Willpower of Mar Álvarez
  • Q&A: Ethan Pringle on Thor's Hammer (5.15a)
  • A Youth Wasted Climbing
  • Bouldering Bub - Isaac Caldiero
  • Spotlight: Alexander Ruchkin - Russian Locomotive
  • Alex Johnson - The Pro Life and Growing Up as a Climber
  • Rock Climbing Saved My Life: A Veteran’s Struggle with PTSD
  • The Beatnik of the Alps: A tale of FA's, Rescues, Love, and Suicide
  • Kev Shields – High Solace: Demons, Depression and Solo Climbing
  • Dean Potter On Laws, Modern America and Soloing Delicate Arch
  • Climbers We Lost in 2014
  • Spotlight: The Double Life of Chris Webb Parsons
  • What I've Learned: Sonnie Trotter
  • What I've Learned: Mark Udall
  • Reinhold Messner: What I've Learned
  • Listening for the Echo: The Klem Loskot Profile
  • Climbers We Lost in 2013
  • Layton Kor Dies
  • Climbers We Lost in 2012
  • Life on Hold: The Ian Powell Story
  • Rope Jumping with Dan Osman
  • Mike Foley: Never Enough
  • Naomi Guy: What I've Learned
  • Hayden Kennedy: Superballistic
  • Dave Macleod: What I've Learned
  • Q&A: V15 Maestro Nacho Sanchez Unleashed
  • Francesca Metcalf: Meant to Compete
  • Maurice Herzog Dies
  • Mason Earle: Crack Ropegun
  • Kurt Albert: Free Wheel
  • Mayan Smith-Gobat: Climber for all Seasons
  • Nik Berry: Obsessive Crusher
  • TNB: Tony Scott, Climber, Movie Maker, Lived and Died Large
  • Who's Next?
  • Tom Patey: The Tiger of Yesterday
  • Todd Skinner: The Renegade
  • The Stonemasters Climb at Pirates Cove
  • Patxi Usobiaga: The Bionic Man
  • Michael Reardon
  • Max Turgeon and Louis-Philippe Ménard: Alpinists and Ice Climbers
  • Kurt Albert: The Climber Who Invented Redpointing
  • Josh Wharton: The Alpinist
  • John Rosholt: Climber and Gambler Disappears in Las Vegas
  • John Long: A Man for All Seasons
  • John Bachar's Last Interview
  • John Bachar Remembers Michael Reardon
  • John Bachar Remembered by Duane Raleigh
  • John Bachar by Henry Barber
  • John Bachar by Doug Robinson
  • John Bachar and the Bachar-Yerian First Ascent
  • Colin Kirkus: Climbing's Greatest Unknown
  • Alex Puccio
  • The Prophet
  • The Guy Whose Nuts Revolutionized Climbing: R.P.
  • Randy Leavitt
  • Galen Rowell: The Vertical World
  • Brian Kim Spotlight
  • Rob Raker
  • Ueli Steck
  • Kemple and Lindner Almost Free El Nino
  • Crack Attack
  • Climbing World Mourns Todd Skinner
  • Ammon McKneely
  • A Tour of Magic and Mystery
  • Tanja Grmovsek
  • Rob Miller
  • Climber Hugh Herr Honored by Esquire Magazine
  • Climber Eric Brand Dies
  • Chuck Fryberger, Climber and Filmmaker
  • Chris Schulte Profile
  • Beth Rodden - What I Learned
  • Joe Kinder
  • Hazel Findlay
  • To the BASE Layer
  • Pete Ward
  • Mad Max
  • Chris Boskoff
  • Bradford Washburn
  • Revenge of the Nerd
  • Chris Lindner
  • Tim Clifford: Escaping the Quantum Hole
  • Renan Ozturk
  • One-Track Mind
  • Traveling Light
  • Colette McInerney
  • The Banner Years
  • Pakistan: The Big and Free
  • MAD DASH
  • Kris Hampton
  • KEEPING THE FAITH
  • Jules Cho
  • Extreme Eleven and Beyond
  • Bob Bates, 96, Takes His Final Journey
  • Jody Hansen
  • Home Girl
  • An Encounter with Fred
  • The Average Hero Sir Edmund Hillary, 88
  • More Than One Trick
  • Dave Graham
  • Red River Sugar Mama
  • Phillip Schaal
  • An Advanced Beginner
  • The Last Samurai:
  • THE BERMANATOR
  • Sonnie in Scotland
  • Offwidth Hombre
  • Moonlight Solo-Nata
  • Jasmin Caton
  • Crag Clown
  • Unlikely Candidate
  • Lone Star
  • The Calculator: Alex Kordick
  • Rise of the Machines
  • Dave Waggoner 1955-2009
  • Blood Spider
  • The Original Desert Rat: Kyle Copeland | 51
  • J-Star
  • Italian Legend: Lino lacedelli | 83
  • Committed: Matt McCormick
  • Cold Justice Paul Cormier
  • The Suffer King
  • The Need for Speed
  • Nick Martino Gives All
  • G-Money
  • Climbing Out of Academic Trouble
  • Charles Houston, 96
  • Bobby Model, 36
  • "Open Bivy" Willy
  • To the Rescue
  • The Genius - Jeff Lowe
  • The Gamer
  • Shock Rock
  • Ryan Triplett | 31
  • John Bachar and the Cosmic Surfboard
  • Hand Crafted
  • Return of the Verm
  • Amped
  • Regime Change
  • Man vs. Snake
  • Living Legend
  • Layton Kor honored by AAC
  • Cold Justice
  • Cowboy Anguish
  • The Rock Jester
  • Mixed Rehab
  • Laura Fletcher
  • Bill Stall
  • Benjamin Strohmeier
  • Joe Six-Pack
  • Freedom Path
  • Manboy
  • Up and Down
  • The Duelist
  • A for Achiever
  • Paul A. Duval
  • Kelly S. Bell
  • Close But No Cigar
  • Video Spotlight
    Chris Sharma - Back in Business! Second Ascent of Joe Mama (5.15a)
    Chris Sharma - Back in Business! Second Ascent of Joe Mama (5.15a)
    Whipper of the Month
    Weekend Whipper: Michele Caminati's Rope-Cutting Ground Fall
    Weekend Whipper: Michele Caminati's Rope-Cutting Ground Fall
     



    Out of Nowhere - Nathaniel Coleman Jumps Onto the Podium

    07-Feb-2017
    By

    Comp placings can be close, but this was ridiculous. Nathaniel Coleman, an 18-year-old from Salt Lake City, tied for the last slot of sixth going into finals at the World Cup in Vail, Colorado. In finals, he and Jan Hojer of Germany both flashed the third problem.

    Nathaniel Coleman. Photo: Eddie Fowke.As the two readied for Problem 4, Coleman says, “Jan told me we were tied for first. If I flashed it, I had a shot at gold.”

    Coleman did flash—and so did Hojer. Among the four final problems, the two were even on topouts and number of attempts to top out. The tiebreaker had to go clear back to attempts to reach the bonus (midway) holds on the first and second problems: Coleman took two attempts and Hojer one each. Ultimately, Coleman finished a very close second place.

    An unknown no more, Coleman has just graduated from Murray High, Utah. His father is a dental ceramicist, and his mother is a tutor and the manager of his climbing team at Momentum Climbing Gym. He has two half brothers, though he says, “They are so much older, I consider myself an only child.” He says his parents “drove me around a lot” on climbing trips.

    He will attend the University of Utah next spring after taking this summer and autumn to climb. After the first two World Cups, Coleman attended two more in China (placing 18th and 11th) and then youth Nationals in Atlanta (he took his first Sport Climbing Series title), to be followed by route climbing in Céüse, France; Youth Worlds in Arco, Italy; and the last Bouldering World Cup, in Munich in August.

     

    Q&A with Nathaniel Coleman

    What are your school interests and grades?

    I have a GPA of 3.8. My study habits are perhaps not the best, but I managed to get decent grades by working really hard when I’m at school.

    I’ve seen a lot of people doing really well in comps and in school—Sasha DiGiulian, Vasya Vorotnikov. They’re both doing what I hope I can do.

    I’ve always liked math and science. Recently I have been into computer programming. I want to have sort of my own business so I would be able to work on the go, writing programs on a laptop so I could still travel and climb.

    In Vail, were you stressing with that close call making finals?

    No. I would have been fine with just making the semifinals. I was thrilled to have done so well [third] in qualifiers.

    What is in your mind on the wall?

    I’m good at letting go of how I’m placing, how I’m doing with respect to the other competitors. I can focus more on my climbing, being in the moment, rather than making it to the next round.

    Weaknesses?

    I used to think my weakness was slabs, but lately they’ve been saving me.

    Strength?

    Being powerful. It’s partly my genetics. I’ve always been a slightly bigger kid [5’11’’ 160 pounds] all around. That gave me a slight advantage to begin with. So I worked on my advantage.

    Nathaniel Coleman (left) with his "climbing idol" Adam Ondra. Photo: Eddie Fowke.Did you get sponsorship offers after the World Cups in North America?

    Sort of. I have not signed with anybody.

    Are you hoping to get on one of the outdoor-industry teams?

    It sounds like if I wanted to, I could maybe become a semi-professional climber. Which is the most I’d probably want to do because being a professional climber is kind of a risky move. If you blow a pulley or hurt your knee warming up, you’re out. A good majority of professional climbers barely scrape by. I’ve always planned on staying in school and getting a job that can pay for my passion in climbing. But if I can make a little money in climbing as well, that’s great. There’s a lot of expenses.

    Are you goal-oriented?

    Having a goal of a placement in a comp doesn’t really help you much. You could be the best climber out there, but still not take first. I set my goals more towards personal perfection and how I feel about my climbing after the comp.

    Any motto in climbing or training?

    In training it’s, “If you give up now, it will be that much harder to succeed next time.”

    Do you say it out loud?

    No.

    Are you rather quiet?

    I try to think before I speak. I find it difficult to put myself into words, so I try to go slowly and express myself as clearly as I can. I’m logical in my decision-making.

    Reactions from other climbers at the World Cup?

    Jan and Adam were very open and encouraging, telling me I could do well in the rankings if I go to China. That was unreal, to hear from your climbing idols.

    After he flashed the last problem, Jan came over to where I was standing. He apologized for flashing, which was kind of ridiculous.

    How are you at outdoor climbing?

    I guess I’m all right. I wouldn’t call myself very good at flashing boulder problems. But I’m working on it!

    Do you see yourself as a lifelong climber?

    Until I can’t hold on.

     

    Also read Puccio, Coleman Take 2017 Bouldering Open National Championship

     

    Road to Bouldering Nationals with Nathaniel Coleman:

     

    This article originally appeared in Rock and Ice issue 229 (October 2015).

    Reader's Commentary:

    Don't want to use Facebook, but still want to comment? We have you covered:

    Add Your Comments to this article:
    Hello