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DR. J Medical Advice

Body

  • Body: Pain Meds vs Sex
  • Appendectomy and Climbing Training
  • Body: Injury Truths
  • Body: BPA and Waterbottles
  • Body: Bouldering for Bone Density
  • Body: Chronic Injury
  • Body: Bouldering for the Bones
  • Body: Antibiotics and Tendon Damage

    • Back

  • Back: Spinal Fracture
  • Back: Preventing Hunchback
  • Back: Herniated Disc

    • Abdomen

  • Abdomen: Muscle Tear/Hernia

    • Arm

    No items found.

    Shoulder

  • Shoulder: Thoracic Outlet Syndrome
  • Shoulder: SLAP Lesion and Cortisone
  • Shoulder: Frozen Shoulder
  • Shoulder: Torn Labrum, SLAP Lesion
  • Shoulder: Separation
  • Shoulder: Pain and Virus

    • Biceps

    No items found.

    Elbow

  • Elbow: Tennis Elbow
  • Elbow: Medial Tendonosis
  • Elbow: DR. J's Dodgy Elbows
  • Elbow: Tendonosis
  • Elbow: Medial Epicondylosis and Taping
  • Elbow: Tingling and Numbness
  • Elbows: Minimizing Fingerboard Injuries
  • Elbow: Medial Epicondyle Tendonosis
  • Elbow: Stress Fracture
  • Elbow: Pain and Hangboarding

    • Wrist

  • Wrist: Klienbock's Disease
  • Wrist: Ruptured Tendon
  • Snap, Crackle, Wrist
  • Wrist: Fractured Scaphoid
  • Wrist: Instability

    • Hand

  • Stressed-Out Fingers
  • Hands: Dupuytren's Disease (lump in palm)
  • Hands: Numbness and Carpal Tunnel Syndrome

    • Fingers

  • Fingers: What To Do with a Ruptured Flexor Digitorum Superficialis
  • Stressed-Out Fingers
  • Fingers: Hyper-extended
  • Fingers: Cysts and Pain
  • Fingers: Cracked Fingertips
  • Fingers: De Quervain's Tenosynovitis
  • Fingers: NSAID Treatment
  • Fingers: Torn A2 Pulley
  • Fingers: Trigger Thumb Syndrome
  • Fingers: Stiffness, Soreness
  • Fingers: Grip Position and Injury
  • Fingers: Pinky Finger Pain
  • Fingers: Electrostimulation
  • Fingers: Cortisone for Tendon Injuries
  • Hands: Numbness and Carpal Tunnel Syndrome
  • Fingers: Taping Truths
  • Fingers: Flappers
  • Fingers: Trigger-Finger Syndrome
  • Fingers: Torn A3 and A4 Pulleys
  • Fingers: Cysts
  • Fingers: Arthritis
  • Fingers: Numbness
  • Fingers: Blown Tendons

    • Leg

  • Leg: Achilles Tendonitis
  • Leg and Knee: Broken Femur and Shattered Kneecap
  • Leg: Pulled Hamstring
  • Leg: Fracture

    • Knee

  • Knee: Rockfall Causes Lump
  • Knee: Chondral Injury of the Lateral Tibial Plateau
  • Leg and Knee: Broken Femur and Shattered Kneecap
  • Knee: Ruptured ACL
  • Knee: Ruptured Ligament and Meniscus
  • Knee: Synovial Cartilage Damage

    • Ankle

  • America's Best Climbing Area: Red River Gorge
  • Loud Pop Ankle Roll

    • Feet

  • Feet: Broken Foot
  • Feet: Gout and Pseudogout
  • Feet: Toe Fracture
    • Mountain Games

    Gear Reviews

    Destinations

    Wild Wild West Virginia
    On a late afternoon in November 1974, Hunt Prothro stared up at the sunbaked overhanging West Face of the North Peak, Seneca Rocks. Above him a proud, unclimbed line connected cracks, corner systems and a blank face.
    Video Spotlight
    Bouldering in Ubatuba
    Bouldering in Ubatuba
    Photo Galleries
    Pinnacles, California/Jim Thornburg
    Indy Pass in HD: Rock & Ice Photo Camp 2012
    Himalaya/Anton Jarkovy
    Ice Climbing at the Narrows, Colorado

    Free Digital Isssue

    Rock and Ice Issue #209

    Rock and Ice Issue #209

    Table Of Contents:

    Climb Safe

    Spectra versus Nylon
    Britney or Christina, Frappuccino or half-caf vanilla latte, Maxim or FHM, trad or sport—our world is full of crucial, life-defining choices. Your sling choice, however, truly is life affecting. Read on to find out why.

    Features

    John Long: On the Road
    And you thought your last climbing trip was tough.
    Good Ice Hunting
    Who says global warming is putting the kibosh on ice climbing? Certainly not a small but active crew of climbers in Virginia.
    Galen Rowell: The Vertical World
    If you had to pinpoint the one element from which all else fanned out around Galen Rowell, prolific climber-photographer-author, it was energy: intense, propulsive, and everyday.
    Altered State
    A tricky crux, a surprise pop, a very fast 15-foot descent. I was delighted to find myself dangling from my beloved little blue Metolius. But when doing a quick body inventory, I noted that my left foot was attempting an inward 180. Suddenly, explosively, it hurt like hell. My partner Peter quickly lowered me, winced, and suggested we call an ambulance.
    Mammut Champ Pants
    Mammut Champ Pants field test report by Rock and Ice magazine.
    Climber's Festival

    Medical Advice

    Fingers: Flappers
    I recently cut off the tip of my left index finger with a plate joiner. I am a new ice climber. How will this affect my ability to climb? I am 27 years old.

    Training Tips

    Witness the Mental Fitness
    Set thought aside to improve performance

    Gear Advice

    Can I Modify my Crampon Without Compromising the Integrity?
    I reversed and flipped a front point on my DMM Terminators to make a heel spur. This required cutting a notch in the frame of the crampons to fit the point. Have I seriously compromised the integrity of the crampon?

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