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Kurt Albert Critical After Fall Rock climbing pioneer Kurt Albert, 56, was badly injured in a 60-foot fall from the via feratta Hohenglucksteig in Bavaria, Germany, on Sunday. Early reports that he has died are unconfirmed. Albert is in serious condition. Via ferattas, or “iron roads,” are rock routes equipped with metal rungs and cables, popular among hikers and non-technical climbers. Most were installed during World World I to provide troop access to the Alps. Kurt Albert The Interview: Chipping, Redpointing and The State of American Climbing There are tales of Kurt Albert’s trips to India, China, Pakistan and Patagonia—among various other points on the globe. And I knew from the Frankenjura guidebook and a number of small red dots at the bases of cliffs that Albert had done literally hundreds of first ascents, including the first 5.13 in Germany. He was also rumored to be an excellent mathematician who used to win Rubik's Cube contests. When Kurt Albert rolled into Boulder for the final stop on a September tour of the States, it was (atypically, according to all who know him) on a somewhat depressed note. While he had enjoyed the climbing, and atmosphere of America, his good friend and housemate, Wolfgang Gullich had just died in a car crash in Germany and Albert was leaving shortly to attend to his friend’s affairs. He was philosophical about Gullich’s death, but had a hard time talking about their trips together. I didn’t push him on the subject when he agreed to meet me for a beer (on the ground!) and the following discussion took place. For More: Kurt Albert The Interview and Origin of the Redpoint SUBSCRIBE TODAY |
In 12 months Rock and Ice received over 1,000 climbing photos—a record—for the third-annual Mammut/Rock and Ice photo contest, and we are very pleased to announce that for the first time we didn’t receive a single photo of anybody’s hairy bare ass, although, sadly, flipping the bird remained a popular subject. Rather, we did receive a multitude of stunning images proving again that you folks out there have more talents than mere climbing. While swallowing an anaconda whole would have been easier , the editors and supporting cast here at the magazine did, after bickering and at least one round of leg wrestling, settle on five photos that are the best of the best. SEE THE BEST CLIMIBING PHOTOS HERE, but first, the winners who scored the great Mammut gear are: |
Rock and Ice is proud to sponsor the Triple Crown of Bouldering. Be sure to visit their site and register for the October 2nd Hound Ears Bouldering Comp. |
Mount Evans has been called the best bouldering area in Colorado. With steep angles, king-sized blocks spread out over four stacked areas (A, B, C and D) and cool, alpine temps, this 14,264-foot peak with a paved road right to the summit really should rank high on any serious boulderer’s tick list. Recently, more areas have been developed, including an old spot on the shores of Lincoln Lake dubbed “Wolverine Land.” Watch Sick Video of Wolverene Area 8a.nu scorecard watchers will have noticed a frenzy of high-end FAs at Lincoln Lake being posted by the likes of Dave Graham and Daniel Woods this summer, including a new V15 called Warrior Up, first sent by Woods on September 4. Graham, in typical manic fashion has really cleaned up, topping out 21 problems rated V11 and harder (11 of those first ascents), and opening two problems—Vanilla Sky (V14) and Tattooed Teardrops (V13)—on his last day before heading east. For more: Video: Graham, Woods, Cardwell and Hukkataival Discover New Bouldering on Evans |
America's premier climbers Daniel Woods and Dave Graham squared off in a rare duel for those two on Saturday at the Nor'easter climbing competition held on the flanks of Loon Mountain, New Hampshire. Yet it was Ethan Pringle's surprise win that stole the show as he duked it out with Brian Kim, who came in a close second. Despite easily flashing all six qualifying problems (the only person to do so), Woods, who was favored to win, came in a disappointing third place. Woods, fresh from wins at the Teva World Cup and a Salt Lake City comp, just seemed off his game, falling on problems that, by his own admission, suited his powerful style. Finals problem 2, for example, started with a double dyno to two opposing vertical "tufa" rails—a "compression"-style move that Woods typically excels at. Yet, he repeatedly fumbled, becoming visibly frustrated, before sticking the tufas and then just falling up high. |
Steve Townshend apparently can do a lot with two days: like the second ascent of Tim Emmett’s awesome Muy Caliente at Pembroke, the first E10 in Wales and one of only a handful in the UK. Townshend pulled off the second ascent on borrowed time and borrowed gear. He is said to be the eighth person to climb that U.K. grade. Townshend, age 29, a climber and pilot from Squamish, B.C., bought a ticket a month ago to visit the family of his girlfriend, Marine Cusa, in France (Cusa, a strong boulderer, is French but also has a Canadian citizenship). On their holiday he spent one day bouldering at Font, but mostly ate lots of bread and cheese before heading toward the cliffline of Stennis Ford, Pembroke, South Wales. For more: Second ascent of Wales' Fierce Trad E10 Muy Caliente
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Night temperatures are dropping and ice season is just around the corner! Do you have your membership? http://ourayicepark.com/membership
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10/24 Edgeworks Blacklight Bouldering Competition & Climb Tacoma, WA www.edgeworks-climbing.com |