mccoll repeats dreamcatcher
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Just before it went.
Photo by: SeanMcColl.com
The route, says Sean McColl, "was amazing. "
The rumors had gone out Wednesday evening.
"Rumor has it Sean McColl sent DreamCatcher, 5.14d, in Squamish today," Steve "Manboy" Townshend wrote on Facebook. "If the rumors are true: WAY TO GO, SEAN!!! AWESOME!!!!!"
He teased, "What took you so long?"
A Chris Sharma route (5.14d / 9a), on the Cacodemon boulder in Squamish, B.C., Dreamcatcher had gone four years without a repeat.
Sean tells Rock and Ice, "Perfect conditions just after the sun went behind the mountain. Took me eight tries this year as well as numerous attempts three years ago. I fell twice in the pin scars on my last couple of attemps but I was feeling really good when I was falling. I wasn't falling because I was too pumped, I was falling because the move was low percentage." When he finally pass that section, he sent.
The night he did it, he wrote on his blog, seanmccoll.com:
"Yup, it’s true, I’ve just made the second ascent of the famous route Dreamcatcher."
The send was the first route at that grade for McColl, 22, a student from the Vancouver area.
He started working the route a year after its first ascent: "It was more of a joke for me at the time," he writes, "because I thought that the route was too hard."
McColl left it alone then until this year and his return from Europe, where he'd put in a full and successful season on the World Cup competition circuit.
The route was tried by extremely strong climbers, among them Paul Robinson, Sonnie Trotter, Ethan Pringle and Nick Duttle.
Upon his return from Europe in early September, McColl tried again: "The first time I got on it again, it still felt so hard. The slab hurt my feet, the dyno was big and the last crux moves seemed unfathomable. The more I tried the route, the easier it became. My muscles started to remember."
McColl is ranked fifth in the world by the International Federation of Sport Climbing (http://www.ifsc-climbing.org), which lists his best results, as per below. These, which include a second, third and fourth, are also complemented by another third at Imst last year:
The rumors had gone out Wednesday evening.
"Rumor has it Sean McColl sent DreamCatcher, 5.14d, in Squamish today," Steve "Manboy" Townshend wrote on Facebook. "If the rumors are true: WAY TO GO, SEAN!!! AWESOME!!!!!"
He teased, "What took you so long?"
A Chris Sharma route (5.14d / 9a), on the Cacodemon boulder in Squamish, B.C., Dreamcatcher had gone four years without a repeat.
Sean tells Rock and Ice, "Perfect conditions just after the sun went behind the mountain. Took me eight tries this year as well as numerous attempts three years ago. I fell twice in the pin scars on my last couple of attemps but I was feeling really good when I was falling. I wasn't falling because I was too pumped, I was falling because the move was low percentage." When he finally pass that section, he sent.
The night he did it, he wrote on his blog, seanmccoll.com:
"Yup, it’s true, I’ve just made the second ascent of the famous route Dreamcatcher."
The send was the first route at that grade for McColl, 22, a student from the Vancouver area.
He started working the route a year after its first ascent: "It was more of a joke for me at the time," he writes, "because I thought that the route was too hard."
McColl left it alone then until this year and his return from Europe, where he'd put in a full and successful season on the World Cup competition circuit.
The route was tried by extremely strong climbers, among them Paul Robinson, Sonnie Trotter, Ethan Pringle and Nick Duttle.
Upon his return from Europe in early September, McColl tried again: "The first time I got on it again, it still felt so hard. The slab hurt my feet, the dyno was big and the last crux moves seemed unfathomable. The more I tried the route, the easier it became. My muscles started to remember."
McColl is ranked fifth in the world by the International Federation of Sport Climbing (http://www.ifsc-climbing.org), which lists his best results, as per below. These, which include a second, third and fourth, are also complemented by another third at Imst last year:
| 3. | IFSC Climbing Worldcup (L) - Imst (AUT) 2009 | 21.08.2009 | |||
| 4. | IFSC Climbing Worldcup (L) - Barcelona (ESP) 2009 | 08.08.2009 | |||
| 6. | M E N bouldering: IFSC Climbing World Championships - Qinghai (CHN) 2009 | 30.06.2009 | |||
| 5. | IFSC Climbing World Championships - Qinghai (CHN) 2009 | 30.06.2009 | |||
| 2. | M E N bouldering: IFSC Climbing Worldcup (B) - Wien (AUT) 2009 | 29.05.2009 | |||
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