sea of dreams

Welcome to paradise. Today, after waking up to the crashing cadence of waves, and maybe eating some breakfast and going swimming, you have only one agenda: to go bouldering on the perfect granite stones that lie on the white sandy beaches like prehistoric eggs. This is British Virgin Gorda, the second-largest island in the British Virgin Islands archipelago.
The British Virgin Gorda (“Fat or Pregnant Virgin”) boulders are located at the Baths, the most famous site of all the BVIs. Tourists play in exotic pools and grottos that are formed by giant boulders situated on the perfect sandy beach. The granite consists mainly of feldspar and quartz uplifted from the sea floor 20 million years ago. The rock was originally square and jagged, but has eroded into fluted and rounded shapes. The stone is featured and sometimes coarse.
Because it rains most afternoons, you’ll find nearly no chalk or signs of previous climbers, which makes for a “first ascent” bouldering experience. Walk around and explore the giant boulders, and stop when you “discover” a line that catches your attention.
There is no climbing shop on the island; bring all the gear you will need. Lots of chalk, liquid chalk, tape and hydrogen peroxide for cuts. Bring sticky-rubber approach shoes for all of the rock hopping. A rope and harness are useful for cleaning highballs and putting up tall first ascents. Also, since most of the landings are rocky, and the problems are often 20 feet or taller, the more pads, the better.
In addition to the Baths, the BVG has three other main areas: Spring Bay, Devil’s Bay and Stoney Bay. Devil’s Bay and Spring Bay offer the best, most accessible problems.
Another bouldering area, called Lost Jerusalem, is on another island, one mile off the coast of BVG. To get to Lost Jerusalem, hire a water taxi or talk to locals in Spanish Town Harbor. Expect to pay about $100 per boatload.
All in all, the bouldering potential is vast. How vast? BVG offers probably two of Hueco’s West Mountain’s worth of boulders.



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