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Climb Safe: Knot Passing 101
Rappelling past a knot that links two ropes end-to-end, however, need not puzzle you, nor must you learn this seemingly complicated yet vital bit of ropework the hard way. The following five-step method for passing a knot is easy to master, safe and efficient.
John Long: The Only Rule That Counts
The greatest riches lie at the end of your dreams
The Owens River Gorge is vast, bullet and the best sport-climbing venue in California. So how did it fall by the wayside and why is it just now coming back?
It's fall, but the Red River Gorge is so humid we're all looking for a break from the heat. The lights are finally set for a portrait I'm taking of a big name, 5.14-sending sponsored athlete, when over walks Nelson Carayannis, a climber of considerably less talent and strength. Carayannis, casually gripping a Gatorade bottle, asks if I'm ready.
A Sport for All Ages
At this the most lovely old man got up at the furthest and humblest end of the hall, as he had got up on all similar occasions for the past half-century.
La Sportiva Katana Lace Shoe Review
The classic Katana Velcro slipper has undergone a makeover with the addition of laces and the P3 rand to produce the Katana Lace, a high-quality, multi-purpose climbing shoe that, as I have found over a few months of testing, excels in all situations.
Back: Preventing Hunchback
What's up with those rock climbers who look honed as hell, but the minute they step off the rock, they turn into the Hunchback of Notre Dame?
Building a Better Climber: Phase 2 - Low-Intensity Endurance
Welcome to the Rock and Ice year-long training plan. If you followed phase one, then you’ll be feeling fit and ready to move on to the next phase. You have laid down a base of general strength and fitness, and the next stage will move on to sport-specific endurance.
Worst-Case Scenario - A Factor 2 Fall
Let's say I'm using a rope that has a maximum impact force of 8.6kN, and the leader takes a serious almost Factor 2 fall. The force on the belayer catching the fall would be less than that on the leader because of the friction on the carabiner through which the rope is clipped. How much less typically?