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Climb Safe: How to Belay, Part 1
No commitment—not even the one to your SO—is as binding as that of the belay. When you hold the rope, your partner’s life is in your hands. Screw up this marriage and you give new meaning to the vow “till death do us part.”
John Long: Guilty Pleasures
Lynn Hill and I spent the winter of 1981 in Las Vegas, climbing daily at Red Rocks and plowing through nights at dead-end jobs. After roughly 10 seasons of climbing 300 days a year, my learning curve had flattened and I found myself singing the same old song.
Close But No Cigar
In 1981 John Bachar cast off into the uncharted expanse of Mendlicott Dome, a steep 500-foot, knob-spackled granite face in Tuolumne Meadows, California, with nothing but a hand drill and bolts, some slings, hooks and cams. Climbing onsight and belayed by Dave Yerian, he established the litmus test for runout climbing, the Bachar-Yerian (5.11c R).
"Open Bivy" Willy
Will Stanhope on hard trad and the truth.
Charlie Fowler American Alpinist
That Charlie Fowler would meet his end while doing what he loved is no huge surprise given the sheer volume of his climbing. At age 52, he'd racked up three and a half decades of it, and had carried his quiet air of a seasoned survivor from hard rock to the high-risk games of alpine climbing and soloing.
Black Diamond Torque Glove Review
Close fitting and contoured into a semi-closed fist, the Torque latches onto your hand, doesn’t creep off even when you are hanging full bore from tool handles, and isn’t pumpy to close. It’s also simple, with no cumbersome cuff to interfere with your jacket or tool leash, if you still use those things.
Elbow: Medial Tendonosis
The last three years I’ve had medial tendonosis in both elbows. For several months I’ve tried all the exercises in various rehab programs including [Dr. J’s] Dodgy Elbows. I wake up every night with pain in my elbows, particularly when I bend my arms. Should I keep getting cortisone shots three times a year? Is surgery an option?
Building a Better Climber: Phase 1 - Conditioning Phase
Welcome to the Rock and Ice yearlong training plan. This seven-phase series will present specific workouts based on the principles of periodization, a proven approach to training that results in peak performance. Each six-week segment will build upon the previous with the end result being a better, stronger climbing machine—you.