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Climb Safe: Full Strength Haul Loops
To help make more climbers safer climbers, Rock and Ice has teamed up with Black Diamond Equipment to present the Climb Safe series. These articles aim to answer some of climbing's most common gear-related questions. Here, Kolin Powick, Black Diamond’s Category Director for climbing gear, and former Director of Quality, looks at haul loops.
John Long: What I've Learned
John Long, original Stonemaster and climbing's most popular writer, spills his guts.
In 2001, Leo Houlding and Jason Pickles made an audacious ground-up, no-drill, on-sight attempt to free climb a new route on El Cap. Nine years later, The Prophet finally spoke.
Rob Raker | Filmmaker, 55, Golden, CO. Sometimes the worst things in life can lead to the most positive outcomes. In my case, it was a really bad ski accident...
Charlie Fowler American Alpinist
That Charlie Fowler would meet his end while doing what he loved is no huge surprise given the sheer volume of his climbing. At age 52, he'd racked up three and a half decades of it, and had carried his quiet air of a seasoned survivor from hard rock to the high-risk games of alpine climbing and soloing.
Five Ten Prism Rock Shoe
I've worn various climbing shoes and wished that they were better at this or that -- heel hooks, dime edges, smearing and so on. But I've never donned a shoe and thought, I wish these shoes would outside edge better.
Knee: Ruptured Ligament and Meniscus
Last year my knee exploded while during a heel hook. I ruptured my lateral collateral ligament, tore my posterior cruciate and arcuate ligament, the medial meniscus, as well as disrupting the posterior capsule of the knee joint. How is it even possible to do so much damage?
How Often Should You Rest?
I climb three or four days a week on average. What's the best combination of rest days and climbing days?
Climbing Skin Care
First, you must build up a tough skin base, which comes from simply climbing. Knowing when your skin feels thin and weepy, or that you are developing a crack or flapper is important too - stop climbing when you feel the onset of a problem. Best to nip it in the bud before it becomes chronic. A deep crack in a pad or joint crease, for instance, can pester you for an entire season.