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Climb Safe: Rethinking the Double-Loop Bowline
Pity the double-loop bowline—it’s getting worse press than Jacko. Two issues ago, we bagged on the knot because in 1989 Lynn Hill took a 70-foot groundfall when her partly tied bowline pulled free of her harness.
John Long: What I've Learned
John Long, original Stonemaster and climbing's most popular writer, spills his guts.
The best bet I ever lost was with Andy Burr over which of us was crazy enough to jump off the 50-plus-foot Henningsvaser, Norway, bridge. At home I jump into the Colorado River after nearly every climbing trip, and at my first look at the bridge, I said, “I’ve run bigger waterfalls than this in my kayak. I’m jumping in.”
Jasmin Caton pulled the haul bag the final feet up onto Heart Ledge, El Capitan, and Amelia Patterson tied it off. Sweating from the heat and from hauling up the slabs on the Salathe, they took off their helmets and sank onto the ledge.
A Sport for All Ages
At this the most lovely old man got up at the furthest and humblest end of the hall, as he had got up on all similar occasions for the past half-century.
KONG Scarab Helmet Review
My friend James, an Alaskan native who flips trucks like pancakes, dragged me out to Utah’s fearsome Fisher Towers for a “real Western adventure,” as he calls anything muddy, loose and dangerous.
Shoulder: Torn Labrum, SLAP Lesion
Two months ago I was working an overhanging crack on toprope. My left hand was jammed in a bottleneck constriction, and as I was reaching up with my right hand for another hold, my feet came off. I fell with full force onto my left arm, but my left hand did not come out of crack.
Boost Power With Eccentric Training
Eccentric training can be used to build strength for climbing in three main ways.