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Climb Safe: Rethinking the Double-Loop Bowline
Pity the double-loop bowline—it’s getting worse press than Jacko. Two issues ago, we bagged on the knot because in 1989 Lynn Hill took a 70-foot groundfall when her partly tied bowline pulled free of her harness.
John Long: Guilty Pleasures
Lynn Hill and I spent the winter of 1981 in Las Vegas, climbing daily at Red Rocks and plowing through nights at dead-end jobs. After roughly 10 seasons of climbing 300 days a year, my learning curve had flattened and I found myself singing the same old song.
Waimea (5.10d): Runmey, New Hampshire
I've spent the last decade traveling to the world’s best sport-climbing areas, but a recent trip to my old stomping grounds reminded me of how good we have it here at home. Rumney, New Hampshire, is a rather small area but it is stacked with over 700 sport routes spread out over 20some crags on Rattlesnake Mountain.
Extreme Eleven and Beyond
Dave MacLeod, 29, of Fort William, Scotland, is the top contender for the title of world's best all-around climber -- not just because he has a fat tick list of top-end grades, but because he has also established first ascents at this high-end level.
A Sport for All Ages
At this the most lovely old man got up at the furthest and humblest end of the hall, as he had got up on all similar occasions for the past half-century.
A climber’s approach shoe is asked to do more jobs than Jesus, the guy on whose shoulders rests both the salvation and destruction of the human race, depending on which sect you listen to.
Shoulder: Torn Labrum, SLAP Lesion
Two months ago I was working an overhanging crack on toprope. My left hand was jammed in a bottleneck constriction, and as I was reaching up with my right hand for another hold, my feet came off. I fell with full force onto my left arm, but my left hand did not come out of crack.
Does Running or Biking Improve Your Climbing?
Specificity is the number-one training principle for climbing, and laps on routes will always produce more specific endurance gains for climbing than hitting the pavement.