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Climb Safe: To Screamer Or Not To Screamer
To help make more climbers safer climbers, Rock and Ice has teamed up with Black Diamond Equipment to present the Climb Safe series. These articles aim to answer some of climbing's most common gear-related questions. Here, Corey LaForge, back from an ascent of the Eiger Norwand with some questions about Yates Screamers, promptly puts them to the test.
John Long: Channel Surfing
As far back as I could remember I’d wondered which of mankind’s faiths and illusions I could choose as my sustaining light, and I’d chosen the greatest existential pathology of them all: that if I worked hard enough, and smartly enough, my greatest challenges would someday flow effortlessly under my hands like glassy Malibu swells.
I was gambling: two kings face down in front of me, and a third in the middle of the table, along with two spades and half my chips. I shoved my remaining $150 into the middle. Of course my opponent called and turned over two more spades. Climbing photographers aren’t the highest-paid people in the world, so a $540 pot was plenty to fire my adrenal glands into hyperdrive.
Hayden Kennedy: Superballistic
Hayden Kennedy and Jason Kruk, ages 21 and 23, had chopped a bivy ledge at the base of the final headwall on the mammoth North Face of North Twin when the storm moved in. Still trying to climb amid snow, rain, spindrift and thin pro the next morning, Hayden had a thought: “Well, maybe we should start thinking about the descent.”
TNB: Chris Sharma and The Art of Jeep Maintenance
The scorched desert expanse surrounding Las Vegas smears together into one terrible brown color as Chris Sharma, Dalia Ojeda, Miguel and I whiz along at 90 miles per hour in an old Jeep Grand Cherokee. The American West, this celebrated frontier, as tame as it has become with commercialism and super highways, is still the last good place I know of for real adventure.
Maxim Chalkline 10.8mm Climbing Rope Review
Maxim Chalkline 10.8 climbing rope is reviewed by Rock and Ice, the climbing magazine.
Hit in the Thigh With a Rock
I was climbing Rainier two weeks ago and took a hit from grapefruit-sized rock. Plunked me in the muscle just above the kneecap. I gutted it out and summited, but it was 18 hours before I was home to ice and elevate it.