• Rock Climbing Training: How to Keep Your Job and Family and Still Climb at Your Limit
  • Rock Climbing Training: Map Out a Plan with the Radar System
  • Rock Climbing Training: How to Train for Compression
  • Rock Climbing Training: General Conditioning for Climbers
  • Rock Climbing Training: How to Dyno
  • Rock Climbing Training: Transitioning from the Gym to the Crag
  • Rock Climbing Training: Building a Better Climber: Part 8
  • Rock Climbing Training: Building a Better Climber: Part 7
  • Rock Climbing Training: Building a Better Climber: Part 6
  • Rock Climbing Training: Building a Better Climber: Part 5
  • Steve House Climbing Training: The Training Effect
  • Rock Climbing Training: Building a Better Climber: Part 4
  • Rock Climbing Training: Building a Better Climber: Part 3
  • Rock Climbing Training: Building a Better Climber: Part 2
  • Rock Climbing Training: Building a Better Climber: Part 1
  • Rock Climbing Nutrition: Eating Your Way to Better Climbing
  • Rock Climbing Training: Gain Confidence by Learning Not to Fear Falling
  • Rock Climbing Training: The Unnatural Way to Climb
  • Rock Climbing Training: Get Better When You Are Scared and Pumped
  • Rock Climbing Training: Never Get Pumped Again
  • Rock Climbing Nutrition: Power Your Climbing With Whole Foods
  • Rock Climbing Training: Should You Add Weight or Use Smaller Holds on a Hangboard
  • Training for Climbing: Injured? Train Your Core!
  • Rock Climbing Training: Pushing Past Your Training Plateau
  • Rock Climbing Nutrition: Anti-inflammatory Foods vs NSAIDS
  • Rock Climbing Training: How to Mentally Train
  • Rock Climbing Training: How to Power Train for Climbing
  • Rock Climbing Training: Boost Power With Eccentric Training
  • Rock Climbing Training: Tips for Better Onsighting
  • Rock Climbing Training: Should You Lose Weight or Get Stronger?
  • Rock Climbing Training: Does Running or Biking Improve Your Climbing?
  • Rock Climbing Training: Is Protein Important?
  • Rock Climbing Training: Getting Strong After a Layoff
  • Rock Climbing Training: Training While Hungry
  • Rock Climbing Training: HowTo Use Microcycles
  • Rock Climbing Training: Improving Slab Technique
  • Rock Climbing Training: How to Unlock a Crux
  • Rock Climbing Training: Best Ratio of Resting to Bouldering
  • Rock Climbing Training: Training During Pregnancy
  • Rock Climbing Training: Using Your Hangboard the Right Way
  • Rock Climbing Training: Maximizing a Small Home Wall
  • Rock Climbing Training: How to Stay Psyched
  • Rock Climbing Training: How to Prevent Bonking
  • Rock Climbing Training: Using a Weight Belt For Training
  • Rock Climbing Training: Regaining Confidence After a Fall
  • Rock Climbing Training: Dynamic vs. Static Stretching
  • Rock Climbing Training: Overcome Anxiety and Send!
  • Rock Climbing Training: The Importance of Finger Strength
  • Rock Climbing Training: Do Forearm Trainers Work?
  • Rock Climbing Training: Maximum Training in Minimum Time
  • Dialing in Crampon Technique
  • Rock Climbing Training: Ultimate Strength
  • Rock Climbing Training: Periodized Training For the Year-round Approach
  • Rock Climbing Training: The Secrets of Warming Up
  • Climbing Training: Beat the Ice-Climbing Pump
  • Rock Climbing Training: Resting the Perfect Amount
  • Rock Climbing Training: How To Recover On Route
  • Rock Climbing Training: Does Creatine Work?
  • Rock Climbing Training: Can Old Guys Get Stronger?
  • Rock Climbing Training: Recovery Supplement Truths
  • Rock Climbing Training: Euro Training Secrets
  • Rock Climbing Training: How to Beat Fear
  • Rock Climbing Training: How Often Should You Rest?
  • Rock Climbing Training: Training With an Injury
  • Rock Climbing Training: Avoiding the Gear-Placement Pump
  • Rock Climbing Training: How to Develop Sloper Strength
  • Rock Climbing Training: Warming Up Without Warm-Ups
  • Rock Climbing Training: Beating the Lactic Acid Pump
  • Video Spotlight
    Maxin Rope Review
    Maxin Rope Review

    Rock Climbing Training: Using a Weight Belt For Training

    02-Feb-2010
    By

    Does it help to use a weight belt to increase endurance, or should weight only be added when training strength and power?

    —Jason Grubb | Carbondale, CO

    The answer to your question lies in the type of climbing that you are training for, and specifically, the type of endurance you need to develop.

    The obvious use for weight belts is system training, where you make each move progressively harder each session simply by adding weight in small increments (of say 1 or 2 pounds) at a time.

    Endurance training, in contrast to system, or power training, is all about maximizing volume (or number of moves). Clearly, the use of a weight belt would compromise the goal in favor of boosting intensity.

    If you are training for a 30-pitch vertical marathon on El Cap, there is no point weighing yourself down so that you can only climb for bursts of two minutes before burning out. In this case, the goal would be to maximize the volume of training at all costs, so go easy and do the longest possible stints. It can be tedious work but you may need to do five or six stints of 30 minutes of climbing to train this type of slow-burn stamina.

    That said, a weight belt of 4 or 5 pounds might be just the ticket to prepare you for that unruly big-wall rack, but reduce the difficulty of the climbing so that you can keep going for the required time.

    If, on the other hand, you're training for hard single-pitch sport routes at Rifle or the Red River Gorge then you must maintain a potent blend of intensity and volume, and using a weight belt can be a useful tool. You could increase intensity simply by trying harder routes or circuits, but this is the same old method.

    The beauty of weight belts is that they can jolt you out of a plateau, but it's important to note that they should be used with caution. If you train with a weight belt routinely (for example, an hour or so every session) then you are running the risk of injury.

    Use weight belts occasionally in a strategic and targeted way; for example, for the last three or four consecutive sessions during the final week or two of a power-endurance training phase. This way your body will be ready to cope with the extra strain and you can obtain that final edge to your performance with a lower risk of injury.

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