Klem Loskot recently exploded onto the scene with a V15 ascent and a 5.15a first ascent. Now Loskot has shared his thoughts, photos, and video footage of his recent repeat of Zunami (V15) with Rock and Ice.
"Zunami is limestone of high quality and a pure line, though not very tall." wrote Loskot in an email to Rock and Ice. "The grade 8C/V15 as suggested by the first ascentionist can fit. For sure nothing less than 8B+/V14."
Zunami, located in the Austrian region of Saalachtal, was opened by the Schwaiger brothers in December, 2003. For nine years the problem remained unrepeated, though according to Loskot, "it's the most visited testpiece in our region."
Follow along with Loskot’s seven-photo tour of Zunami as he walks the viewer through each section of the V15 boulder problem. Then watch the moves coalesce in a one-take send-video of the iconic Zunami.
[ 1. "Fire start from two crimpers and small footholds that are hard to make speed from."]
[2. "Reach to a big edge, almost a jug, ground is super close, so you're making yourself small. Difficulties are fading."]
[ 3. "Easy section to good hold for both hands."]
[ 4. "Difficulties start to rise now. Precise dyno to incut crimper, best to have as much skin as possible."]
[5. "Place heel-hook and (see below) go controlled to slopey pinch."]
[7. "Match on pinch and set up for the throw. Once hand reaches final flake, big swing is starting." (see video below)]
Photos by Schurl Brandstaetter.
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