Body

  • Body: Pain Meds vs Sex
  • Appendectomy and Climbing Training
  • Body: Injury Truths
  • Body: BPA and Waterbottles
  • Body: Bouldering for Bone Density
  • Body: Chronic Injury
  • Body: Bouldering for the Bones
  • Body: Antibiotics and Tendon Damage
  • Back

  • Back: Spinal Fracture
  • Back: Preventing Hunchback
  • Back: Herniated Disc
  • Abdomen

  • Abdomen: Muscle Tear/Hernia
  • Arm

    No items found.

    Shoulder

  • Shoulder: Thoracic Outlet Syndrome
  • Shoulder: SLAP Lesion and Cortisone
  • Shoulder: Frozen Shoulder
  • Shoulder: Torn Labrum, SLAP Lesion
  • Shoulder: Separation
  • Shoulder: Pain and Virus
  • Biceps

    No items found.

    Elbow

  • Elbow: Tennis Elbow
  • Elbow: Medial Tendonosis
  • Elbow: DR. J's Dodgy Elbows
  • Elbow: Tendonosis
  • Elbow: Medial Epicondylosis and Taping
  • Elbow: Tingling and Numbness
  • Elbows: Minimizing Fingerboard Injuries
  • Elbow: Medial Epicondyle Tendonosis
  • Elbow: Stress Fracture
  • Elbow: Pain and Hangboarding
  • Wrist

  • Wrist: Klienbock's Disease
  • Wrist: Ruptured Tendon
  • Snap, Crackle, Wrist
  • Wrist: Fractured Scaphoid
  • Wrist: Instability
  • Hand

  • Stressed-Out Fingers
  • Hands: Dupuytren's Disease (lump in palm)
  • Hands: Numbness and Carpal Tunnel Syndrome
  • Fingers

  • Fingers: What To Do with a Ruptured Flexor Digitorum Superficialis
  • Stressed-Out Fingers
  • Fingers: Hyper-extended
  • Fingers: Cysts and Pain
  • Fingers: Cracked Fingertips
  • Fingers: De Quervain's Tenosynovitis
  • Fingers: NSAID Treatment
  • Fingers: Torn A2 Pulley
  • Fingers: Trigger Thumb Syndrome
  • Fingers: Stiffness, Soreness
  • Fingers: Grip Position and Injury
  • Fingers: Pinky Finger Pain
  • Fingers: Electrostimulation
  • Fingers: Cortisone for Tendon Injuries
  • Hands: Numbness and Carpal Tunnel Syndrome
  • Fingers: Taping Truths
  • Fingers: Flappers
  • Fingers: Trigger-Finger Syndrome
  • Fingers: Torn A3 and A4 Pulleys
  • Fingers: Cysts
  • Fingers: Arthritis
  • Fingers: Numbness
  • Fingers: Blown Tendons
  • Leg

  • Leg: Achilles Tendonitis
  • Leg and Knee: Broken Femur and Shattered Kneecap
  • Leg: Pulled Hamstring
  • Leg: Fracture
  • Knee

  • Knee: Rockfall Causes Lump
  • Knee: Chondral Injury of the Lateral Tibial Plateau
  • Leg and Knee: Broken Femur and Shattered Kneecap
  • Knee: Ruptured ACL
  • Knee: Ruptured Ligament and Meniscus
  • Knee: Synovial Cartilage Damage
  • Ankle

  • America's Best Climbing Area: Red River Gorge
  • Loud Pop Ankle Roll
  • Feet

  • Feet: Broken Foot
  • Feet: Gout and Pseudogout
  • Feet: Toe Fracture
  •  
    Video Spotlight
    Connecticut Bouldering
    Connecticut Bouldering

    Body: Bouldering for the Bones

    30-Mar-2010
    By

    I climb and am dealing with osteopenia and/or osteoporosis resulting from medication I'm taking for Inflammatory Bowel Disease (Prednisone, among other drugs). My doctor recommended weight-bearing exercise. Does rock climbing or bouldering fill the bill?

    Tom Eisenstadt, Calabasas, California

     

    Being a believer in anecdotal evidence, I tested the null hypothesis that climbing was not weight bearing by trying a beautiful highball project. Amazingly, it seemed to be more weight bearing the higher I got! And when I finally thrutched at something distant (it was possibly a cloud), screamed and dislocated my ankle it was irrefragable, I was bearing my weight.

    In reality, the correlation between bone strength and types of exercise is a little like Tiger Woods' life, full of simple relationships that are difficult to comprehend in the big picture. The bottom line? Any exercise will potentially stimulate bone strengthening, though to widely varying degrees. Weight-bearing and non-weight-bearing are really just terms coined to describe gravitational load, and shouldn't be confused with load-bearing, which is far more descriptive when it comes to defining the effectiveness of exercises as they relate to one's bone density.

    All exercises are load-bearing in that muscles are loading bones. When muscles load bones (as does gravity), bones prick to attention, wondering, Are we strong enough for this task? If the answer is yes, there is no call to arms, nothing to worry about here. But if the answer is no, the calcium troops are rallied, and bone strength is bolstered in order to ward off potential fracture. Unfortunately, if the Bone Army is not mustered with some regular violence, calcium tends to go AWOL.

    The magnitude, rate and frequency of muscular strain all play integral roles in bone response, but how they interrelate is largely unknown. One thing is certain--if swimming is at one end of the spectrum, bouldering is at the other.

    Although climbers are subject to more musculoskeletal load than a fat man's bicycle, I'm not convinced that climbing alone will thwart the de-mineralizing effect of Prednisone across your whole skeletal system. Cover your bases and have a comprehensive program to combat bone loss.

    There is some more information regarding bone mineral density and climbing versus bouldering in Ask Dr J No. 170. You will find it archived on my web page, www.drjuliansaunders.com.

     

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    Body: Bone Density

    Body: Chronic Injury

    Body: Antibiotics and Tendon Damage

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