On Tuesday, February 12 Carlo Traversi sent Meadowlark Lemon (V15) in Red Rock Canyon, Nevada. His successful climb marks the third ascent of the problem.
"Being shorter than the first 2 ascentionists, I had to adopt a much different sequence through the crux," Traversi told Rock and Ice. "Luckily when my lack of reach becomes a problem I can rely on power."
Paul Robinson first climbed Meadowlark on January 10, 2010 after two and a half days of work. He graded the problem V13 but pointed to a low start that could go at V15. Then he went back on January 12, 2012 and sent the the V15 variation.
David Graham nabbed a second ascent on on January 8, 2013 and described the Meadowlark as a "5 star gigantic compression rig" on 8a.nu.
Rock and Ice contacted Traversi to hear his thoughts about sending this impressive boulder problem.
What inspired you to climb Meadowlark?
I've always been inspired by tall, aesthetic, impressive lines and when my friend Paul Robinson showed me the photos after his first ascent of it, I knew I had to get to Red Rocks and give it a try.
How many sessions did it take to send?
I managed to finish the boulder 1st try on my 4th day of trying. The first day on it I completed all the moves and on the 2nd day I got close to sending, but the conditions weren't perfect until my 4th day of climbing. It's a really difficult problem to link. Lots of difficult, technical moves in a row.
Can you describe the problem?
It starts on two small hueco jugs at about waist height. The first move is a huge reach to a small crimp on the arete with your left hand and then you move into a 4 move compression sequence that is basically the crux of the boulder. Slapping up the arete with your left hand with your right hand on a good undercling crimp. It ends with a few long pulls up the arete on some crimps with a final jump to a jug. Being shorter than the first 2 ascentionists, I had to adopt a much different sequence through the crux. Basically, I had to fully engage a hold that normally you can just hang on, and walk my feet really high to two really bad feet. Luckily when my lack of reach becomes a problem I can rely on power.
What did it feel like to top out?
Relief. My hands were really numb and I thought I was going to dry fire off the last hold. So more than anything I was just happy not to punt on the easier section.
What are your next big plans?
ABS Nationals in Colorado in a little less than 2 weeks. And then I'm headed to Fontainebleau and Switzerland for the month of March.