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  • Tim Emmett, Klemen Preml Establish 260-Foot WI 12 at Helmcken Falls
  • Jimmy Webb Sends The Big Island (V15), Toupie Carnivore assis (V14)
  • Kevin Lopata Sends Jour de Chasse (V15), Fontainebleau (with video)
  • Rocasolano Makes Second Ascent of Catalan Witness the Fitness (V15)
  • VIDEO: Jonathan Siegrist Sends Power Inverter (5.15a)
  • Black Diamond Recalls Carabiners, Quickdraws and Slings
  • Jimmy Webb Sends l’Alchemiste In Three Tries – Downgrades
  • Brette Harrington Free Solos Austríaca in Patagonia
  • Nathaniel Coleman, Megan Mascarenas Win 2016 Bouldering Nationals
  • Marianne van der Steen Flashes Kamasutra (D13+)
  • Alex Honnold and Colin Haley Repeat the Torre Traverse in a Day
  • Barefoot Climber First to Repeat Original l’Alchimiste (~V14)
  • Alban Levier Cranks Third Ascent of l’Alchimiste (V15)
  • New Big Wall Route Established on El Diente North Face in Mexico
  • Epic Ascent of Yosemite’s Ephemeral Widow’s Tears
  • Colin Haley on Patagonian Solo Streak
  • VIDEO: Tom Randall Takes Down the Kraken (V13)
  • Ryan Vachon Dominates 2016 Ouray Mixed Climbing Competition
  • Guillaume Glairon-Mondet Puts Up New V16 in Fontainebleau
  • Job Opening: Director of Digital Development
  • Two Experienced Climbers Killed in the Scottish Highlands
  • Jimmy Webb Sends The Game (V15)
  • Siegrist Sends Power Inverter (5.15a), Flashes Fish Eye (5.14b) in Spain
  • Jakob Schubert Sends La Planta de Shiva (5.15b) in Spain
  • VIDEO: Ueli Steck - Accepting Risk, Reward & Danger (Part 4)
  • Epic TV's Top Three Training Videos of 2015
  • Chris Sharma Sends Catalan Witness the Fitness (V-Hard) in Spain
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  • A Tribute: Doug Walker, First AAC President Killed in Office
  • VIDEO: Barefoot French Climber Sends V12 Traverse
  • Two-time Mugs Stump Award Winner Ryan Jennings Dies on Ice Climb
  • Climbers We Lost in 2015
  • VIDEO: Tragedy Strikes Ueli Steck’s 82 Summit Project
  • Climbers Against Cancer Founder John Ellison Dies
  • VIDEO: Alexey Rubtsov Climbs Three Magic Wood V14s
  • Ashima Shiraishi Sends Phenomena (V14) in 30 Minutes
  • Kayah Gaydish Climbing Accident Update
  • Climb Safe: To Screamer Or Not To Screamer
  • VIDEO: Ueli Steck Runs Up 18 4,000 Meter Peaks In A Day
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  • Jimmy Webb Puts Up The Matriarch - The Southeast's First V15
  • The Classic Alpinist: Ueli Steck Climbs 82 Summits In 62 Days - Part 1
  • 2016 Mugs Stump Award Recipients
  • Access Fund Launches Second Batmobile
  • VIDEO: Road to the Top - World Cup Training with Alex Puccio
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  • The Top 7 Climbing Achievements of 2015
  • Sarah Hueniken First North American Woman to Send M14
  • Climb Safe: Full Strength Haul Loops
  • Will Gadd Sends The Mustang P-51 (M14-) Second Go - with Video
  • Walton, Grainger Claim Another Triple Crown Victory
  • Founder of The North Face, Doug Tompkins Dies in Patagonia
  • VIDEO: Highlights from La Sportiva Legends Only 2015
  • Top 10 Weekend Whippers of 2015
  • Kai Lightner Storms Bishop, Hikes The Mandala (V12)
  • Southern Rampage – Jimmy Webb Establishes Four V14s
  • Janja Garnbret Dominates La Sportiva Legends Only
  • Alex Megos Hikes Demencia Senil (5.15a)
  • Pirmin Bertle Sends Meiose (~5.15b) in Switzerland
  • VIDEO: Martin Stráník Climbs Story of Two Worlds (V15)
  • Q&A: Ueli Steck On Reclaiming the Eiger Speed Record
  • GEAR OF THE YEAR 2015
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  • Martin Stráník Sends Story of Two Worlds (V15)
  • Top 10 Climbing Videos of 2015
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  • VIDEO: Ondra and Markovič Crush in Kranj
  • Ueli Steck Reclaims Eiger Speed Record
  • Kai Lightner Reflects on Competitions, Bouldering and the Future
  • Jonathan Siegrist Crushes Papichulo (5.15a)
  • Dani Andrada Sends Chilam Balam (5.15b)
  • Ondra, Markovič Crowned 2015 Lead World Champions
  • Crack Fix – How to Build a Home Crack Training System
  • VIDEO: Alex Puccio Storms the Buttermilks—Bishop, California
  • The K2 Summit Controversy
  • VIDEO: Adam Ondra and Stefano Ghisolfi Send New 5.15b's
  • The Locomotive: Roy McMurtrey – 87 and Still Climbing
  • Whittaker, McManus Claim 2nd Ascent of The Secret Passage, El Cap
  • Sherpa Makes Solo First Ascent on Himalayan Peak
  • Banff Mountain Book Competition Announces Winners
  • VIDEO: Climbing the 9th Grade (5.14d)
  • Hound Ears Competition Postponed Again
  • Jorg Verhoeven Sends Wheel of Life (V15)
  • Adam Ondra Establishes France's Hardest Route
  • Stefano Ghisolfi Establishes Italy’s First 5.15b
  • No Expectations: Joe Kinder Sends 6 5.14c's in Spain
  • Solar, Rock and Landmines—Alex Honnold Explores Angola
  • Spotlight: Megan Mascarenas - The Logician
  • Big Wall Soloing on Bugs
  • Triple Crown Bouldering Series Kicks Off at Stone Fort
  • Niky Ceria Repeats Voyager Sit (V14)
  • Alpine Warriors - History of Alpinists in Yugoslavia
  • VIDEO: Joe Kinder and Patxi Usobiaga Explore Cala Gonone, Italy
  • Sonnie Trotter Fires Blue Jeans Direct (5.14a), Mount Yamnuska, Canada
  • Megos Cruises the Red River Gorge
  • Logan Barber Frees Honeycomb Dome (5.13d) in China
  • Ondra, Kim Sweep Lead World Cup in Wujiang, China
  • How to Build a Home Climbing Wall
  • Winners of the 8th Annual Rock and Ice / Mammut Photo Contest
  • Alex Megos Sweeps the New River Gorge
  • $10,000 Granted for Anchor Replacement Across U.S.
  • Three Sherpas Complete Three Himalayan First Ascents in Three Days
  • Ashima Shiraishi Sends Nuclear War (V14), New York
  • Dan Mirsky Sends The Crew (5.14c) – Rifle, Colorado
  • Marc-André Leclerc Free Solos Aguja Standhardt in Patagonia
  • David Lama Establishes Lebanon's Hardest Route
  • Dave Graham Sends Thor's Hammer
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  • Yosemite Facelift - Finding Beauty Behind the Trash
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  • Sport Climbing Makes Shortlist for 2020 Tokyo Olympics
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  • VIDEO: Brette Harrington - Free Solo of Chiaro di Luna (5.11a)
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  • Q&A: Jesse Grupper – Youth World Championships Silver Medalist
  • Everest ’96 – Unheard Voices of the 1996 Disaster
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  • Nalle Hukkataival Puts Up New V15 – The Stepping Stone
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  • Nina Caprez and Barbara Zangerl Redpoint 1,400-foot Rätikon 5.14
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  • REEL ROCK 10 - Interview with Filmmaker Peter Mortimer
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  • The Dawn of Urban Big Wall Speed Climbing
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  • Ondra Pioneers Four FA's in Norway
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  • Shiraishi, Garnbret Win Again at Arco Youth World Championships
  • Climbing Beta: El Potrero Chico, Mexico
  • Q&A: Sasha DiGiulian on Climbing the Eiger
  • Q&A: Carlo Traversi on Climbing the Eiger
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  • VIDEO: How To Climb 5.14d and Hold A Job
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  • Seb Bouin Claims First Ascent in Verdon Gorge
  • Jakob Schubert Takes Third Ascent of Thor’s Hammer (5.15a)
  • Dave Graham Repeats Spray of Light (V15)
  • Sasha DiGiulian and Carlo Traversi Climb the Eiger North Face
  • VIDEO: Jonathan Siegrist Climbs La Rambla (5.15a)
  • Stormed Out – Sasha DiGiulian and Carlo Traversi Bail on Paciencia
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  • Alex Megos Repeats Thor’s Hammer (5.15a), Flatanger Cave
  • Isabelle Faus Sends Amandla (V14)
  • Markovič, Supper Claim Gold in Stavanger
  • First Ascent of the Southwest Buttress of Mt. Waddington, B.C.
  • Andy Kirkpatrick Solos Sea of Dreams on El Cap
  • LIVE: IFSC Lead Climbing World Cup Stavanger 2015 - FINALS
  • How To Make Your Own Clip Stick - Tips from Jonathan Siegrist
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  • Shauna Coxsey, Alexey Rubtsov Win Final Bouldering WC of the Year
  • Chon, Noguchi Crowned 2015 Bouldering World Cup Champions
  • Jon Krakauer: Climbing Everest was the Biggest Mistake I've Ever Made
  • LIVE: IFSC Bouldering World Cup Munich 2015
  • 82 and Done – Ueli Steck Completes Alps Mission in 61 Days
  • Lightning Halts Psicobloc, Jimmy Webb and Charlotte Durif Take Gold
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  • Staying Alive in the Death Sport Capital of the World
  • Mina Markovič, Romain Desgranges Win Lead World Cup, Imst, Austria
  • Jon Cardwell Snags Second Ascent of Shadowboxing (5.14d), Rifle
  • Eight Day Solo First Ascent of Bigwall Route on Mt. Huashan, China
  • Robert Pizem – Father First, Climber Second
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  • British Team Makes First Ascent of The Mirror Wall, Greenland
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  • Julianne Wurm and Jan Hojer On Sending Spree in Silvretta, Austria
  • Adam Ondra Claims Second Ascent of Sharma’s Three Degrees of Separation (5.14d), Céüse
  • Homestead: Access Fund Saves 360 Acres of Climbing Access in Arizona
  • MERU: Highly Anticipated Climbing Film Premieres August 14th
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  • Margo Hayes, 17, Sends Two Rifle 5.14s in One Day
  • Jesse Huey, Brette Harrington Claim Second and Third Free Ascents of Edge of Pan (5.13 R), Squamish
  • Vikki Weldon Makes Fourth Free Ascent of Adder Crack (5.13 R)
  • VIDEO: Stefano Ghisolfi Repeats Chris Sharma's Demencia Senil (5.15a)
  • Hukkataival, Woods Claim First and Second Ascents of Get Railed (V14)
  • REEL ROCK 10 Film Tour Lineup
  • Jain Kim, Gautier Supper Win Gold in Briançon, France
  • Karoline Sinnhuber Sends First V13, Charity Boulder, Silvretta
  • VIDEO: Sicilian Deep Water Soloing
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  • Conrad Anker, David Lama Put Up New Route on Temple of Sinewava
  • Barbara Zangerl Sends Bellavista (5.14a, 500m)
  • Mina Markovič, Ramón Julián Puigblanque Win Lead World Cup, Chamonix, France
  • Daniel Woods V15 FA Spray of Light, Rocklands
  • ​The Edge of Extinction - First Ascent of Nanga Parbat's Mazeno Ridge
  • Seb Bouin Establishes 5.15a at Pic Saint-Loup
  • UK/US Expedition Summits Unclimbed Himalayan Peak
  • Ueli Steck Reaches Halfway Point on 82 Summits Project
  • Dave Graham Claims FA of Hatchet Prow (V14), Rocklands
  • MOVES - How Many Climbs Can You Identify From Just One Move?
  • Jimmy Webb Makes Second Ascent of Livin Large (V15), Rocklands
  • Belay Ledge Disappears on Half Dome’s Regular Route
  • Giorgia Tesio, 14, Makes First Female Ascent of Chay (5.13d)
  • Dimitri Vogt, 18, Sends Cabane au Canada (5.14d)
  • Time-Lapse: Lightning Triggers Multiple Wildfires in Zion
  • Anthony Johnson Onsights Jihad - Third Ascent of “Terrifying” Vedauwoo Offwidth
  • Only Two Seats Left at the John Long Writing Symposium
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  • Climbing Access Victory – Michigan’s AAA Walls Re-Opened
  • ​First World Cup Victory for Petra Klingler - Haiyang, China
  • Grampians: Best Bouldering in the World or Overrated?
  • Stefano Ghisolfi Sends Sharma’s Biographie/Realization (5.15a)
  • Sean McColl, Akiyo Noguchi Win Bouldering World Cup, Chongqing, China
  • Ueli Steck, Michi Wohlleben: Eighty-two Summits in 80 days
  • The Beatnik of the Alps: A tale of FA's, Rescues, Love, and Suicide
  • Untouched Rock: Angie Eiter, Bernie Ruech Develop New Crag in Greece
  • Massive Rockfall in Yosemite's Tenaya Canyon
  • Hazel Findlay on Positivity, Being Bold and Staying Focused
  • Cameron Hörst, 14, Sends First 5.14b, Raubritter
  • Josh Ibbertson, 11, Sends Raindogs (5.13b)
  • Jonathan Siegrist: 5.14 First Ascent in the Flatirons, Colorado
  • Sasha DiGiulian Makes First Female Ascent of La Coccinelle Trump L'oeil (5.14), Verdon Gorge
  • Chris Sharma Free-Climbs California’s Redwoods
  • Stefano Ghisolfi Sends Hell'Avaro (5.14c/d)
  • For Sale: 10 Acres at Donner Summit
  • Roland Hemetzberger Repeats Ondra’s Fugu (5.14d)
  • Iranian Team Climbs First Ascent on Karambony Tower, Madagascar
  • Megan Mascarenas, Nathaniel Coleman on the Podium in Vail
  • Inside the Mind of Ethan Pringle – Climbing Jumbo Love (5.15b)
  • Sachi Amma - Second and Last Ascent of Tinipi (5.15a), Borneo Earthquake
  • Adam Ondra Flashes Jade (V14), Don’t Get Too Greedy (V13) after Vail WC
  • LIVE: 2015 IFSC Bouldering World Cup, Vail
  • Emily Harrington Sends Golden Gate (5.13) on El Capitan
  • VIDEO: Hazel Findlay - Giving El Cap's Pre-Muir (5.13+) a Try
  • GoPro Mountain Games Hosts Bouldering World Cup
  • Austrian Alpinists Summit Unclimbed Mt. Reaper in Alaska.
  • Adam Ondra Sends White Noise (V14/15), Flashes Bear Toss (V13)
  • Mateusz Haladaj Sends Sharma’s Papichulo (9a+/5.15a)
  • Anna Stöhr and Alban Levier Take Gold in Toronto
  • LIVE: IFSC Bouldering World Cup Toronto 2015
  • Twenty-two Year Old Dies in Rappelling Accident on El Cap
  • Ramp Up Your Training with Fun
  • IFSC World Cup in Toronto May 30-31
  • Sébastian Bouin Claims Third Ascent of Chilam Balam (5.15b), Spain
  • Bouldering Competition to be Held in Memory of Tito Traversa
  • Only Two Spots Left in the John Long Writing Symposium!
  • VIDEO: Tommy Caldwell Cruises Ice-Covered Crack
  • Vasya Vorotnikov, Claire Bresnan Claim Bouldering Titles at Riverrock
  • Alex Puccio on Training, Bodyweight and Crowdfunding
  • Siegrist Sends Le Cadre Nouvelle (5.14d)–“Best climbing trip of my life”
  • Kev Shields – High Solace: Demons, Depression and Solo Climbing
  • VIDEO: Raw Power vs Flawless Technique
  • Germans Win Big at European Bouldering Championships
  • Ethan Pringle Sends Jumbo Love (5.15b) – Hardest Sport Climb in America
  • Dean Potter Killed in Wingsuit Accident in Yosemite
  • Solo Climber Found Dead on Denali
  • LIVE STREAM: European Bouldering Championships 2015 – Semi-finals
  • VIDEO: Gord McArthur - The Man Behind the Machine
  • Training Beta: How to Warm Up For Route Climbing
  • Logan Barber Frees The Firewall (5.13d)—Hardest Trad Line in China
  • Sherpa Future Fund and Account of the April 25 Everest Avalanche
  • A Second Earthquake and A Shorter Everest
  • Dai Koyamada Sends Three-Year “Super Project”
  • Chris Sharma Onsights Snuff Movies (8c/5.14b), Catalonia, Spain
  • Calling All Non-Sponsored Climbers
  • 2015 Ice Climbing Trip Report: Montana, Wyoming and Norway
  • Melloblocco 2015: World's Largest International Bouldering Festival
  • Dean Potter Sets New Half Dome FKT
  • Indian Creek, Cedar Mesa Under Threat by Utah Legislature
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  • Dani Arnold Breaks Ueli Steck’s Speed Record on the Matterhorn
  • Big Men: 5.15a First Ascent by Iker Pou, Spain
  • A Summitless Year for Everest? North Side Closed, Retreat from the South
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  • VIDEO: Chris Sharma Sends El Bon Combat (5.15b/c)
  • Angie Scarth-Johnson, 10, Climbs Her First 5.14b
  • VIDEO: Yvon Chouinard on the Today Show
  • VIDEO: Lynn Hill, Real Life Superhero
  • Sufferfest: Alex Honnold and Cedar Wright on Nat Geo Live
  • Angy Eiter Sends Era Vella (5.14d), Spain
  • VIDEO: Sasha DiGiulian on the Deep Bond Between Climbing Partners
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  • Geyikbayiri Saved: Climbers Stop Mining Operation at Turkey’s Largest Crag
  • Jacopo Larcher Gets Second Ascent of Helmutant (5.14d), Italy (With Video)
  • Carlo Traversi Bags Bad Girls Club (5.14d), Rifle, Colorado
  • Training Beta: Mark and Mike Anderson’s Guide to Hangboard Training
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  • Jakob Schubert Gets Second Ascent of Bügeleisen Sit, Austria’s First V15
  • 2015 Piolets d’Or Awards
  • Rub it Raw: Mike Anderson, Bryan Bird Free Five-Pitch 5.13 in Zion
  • Vikki Weldon Sends Los Humildes pa Casa (5.14a), Oliana, Spain
  • Q&A: Sonnie Trotter On Estado Critico (5.14d)
  • Alex Megos Downunder
  • Roads, Bridges Washed Out At Red River Gorge
  • Kai Lightner Sends His First 5.14d, Era Vella, Spain
  • Sonnie Trotter Sends Estado Critico (5.14d), Siurana, Spain
  • Ramón Julián Puigblanque: Two 5.14d's and Two 5.15a's in Four Days
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  • VIDEO: Dave MacLeod – Project Fear
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  • Dean Potter: When Dogs Fly
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  • Kai Lightner, Delaney Miller Win 2015 SCS National Championships
  • LIVE: 2015 SCS National Championships
  • Annapurna Claims Two More Lives
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  • Ashima Ticks Another Project in Spain
  • Jonathan Siegrist Sends La Rambla (5.15a)
  • Alex Megos: Japan Sendathon
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  • Ashima Shiraishi Climbs Possible 5.15a
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  • Golden Moment: Bill Ramsey Sends 5.14b at 54
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  • VIDEO: Alex Megos on Lucid Dreaming (V15)
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  • PHOTO GALLERY: Canadian Ice: By John Price
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  • LIVE STREAM: Climbing Works International Festival 2015
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  • PHOTO GALLERY: Women of Rock 3 in HD
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  • First Free-Solo of Chiaro di Luna (5.11a), Fitz Roy Massif, Patagonia
  • 2015 Rock and Ice Photo Camp Enrollment Now Open
  • Q&A: Ondra Sends Necessary Evil, Says Failures Are Reasons to Train
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  • New Winter Route on the Troll Wall, Romsdal, Norway
  • New Paltz Climbing Gym Burns Down
  • Hueco Tanks Public Use Plan Under Review
  • Kwon YoungHye Sends World's Hardest Mixed-Climbs In A Season
  • Everest: Reroute Through Khumbu Icefall for the 2015 Climbing Season
  • Sachi Amma Sends 5.15a on 4th Attempt, in Santa Linya, Spain
  • Royal Canadian Air Force Sgt. Missing After Ice Climbing Accident
  • Griffin Whiteside Sends The Big Island (V15) in Fontainebleau
  • Puccio and Woods Both Claim 9th ABS National Title
  • Colin Haley and Marc-André Leclerc Put Up New Routes in Patagonia
  • Sneak Peek: The Dawn Wall Issue Is On The Way!
  • Papert Claims Second Ascent of M12 Scarefest
  • Messner Capped the Hour at the AAC’s 2015 Annual Benefit Dinner
  • Sachi Amma Sends Sharma's Fight or Flight (5.15b) in Oliana, Spain
  • Climbing Guide Dies in Fall
  • VIDEO: Will Gadd Sends Niagara Falls
  • Will Gadd Climbs a Frozen Niagara Falls
  • SlabMaster: Klemen Bečan Onsights 5.14c in Spain (With Video)
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  • Nick Duttle Sends 5.14d Project in New Mexico
  • Nalle Hukkataival Cranks First Ascent of Kintsugi (V15)
  • Tommy Caldwell and Kevin Jorgeson Appear on The Ellen DeGeneres Show
  • The Grand Experience: Superbowl XLIX to Host Rock Climbing Wall
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  • Q&A: Jason Kehl Proves that Hueco Tanks Is Far From Climbed Out
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  • The Film "Valley Uprising" is Now Available Here
  • The Dawn Wall Goes Down!
  • Guidebook Worth its Weight in Gold, Selling for $1,000
  • Dawn Wall Update: Jorgeson Catches Caldwell, Final Push Begins
  • Dawn Wall Update: Jorgeson Sends Dyno, Two Pitches Away from Wino Tower
  • Gadd Wins Ouray, Again
  • Dawn Wall Update: Jorgeson Sends Pitch 15!
  • Dawn Wall Update: Caldwell Sends Last 5.14 Pitch!
  • Sasha DiGiulian to Compete in Ouray Ice Fest
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  • Dawn Wall Update: Caldwell Sends Pitch 16!
  • Dawn Wall Update: Caldwell and Jorgeson Both Send Crux Pitch!
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  • Climber Dies From Fall in the Gunks
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  • Clif Bar's Response: A Letter to the Climbing Community
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  • Alex Megos Sends Mandala Sit Start (V13/14)
  • Dave Pegg, King of Rifle, Has Died
  • Jorg Verhoeven Free Climbs the Nose (5.14) on El Cap
  • Honnold, Potter, and Others Fired by Clif Bar for Soloing
  • New Outhouse in Indian Creek in Honor of Black Diamond Engineer
  • Jimmy Webb Makes First Ascent of Wyoming’s Multiverse (V14)
  • Jakob Schubert Wastes No Time in Magic Wood
  • Gear Review: Mammut Realization Shorts
  • Another New Speed Record on the Nose for Sauter and Smith-Gobat
  • Martin Stranik Repeats Practice of the Wild (V15)
  • Gabriele Moroni Finishes Three-Year Project—Goldrake (5.15a)
  • Libby Sauter and Mayan Smith-Gobat Break El Cap Speed Record
  • Ondra and Kim Back on Top at Inzai World Cup
  • Nina Caprez Sends 5.14b at a New Crag in Turkey
  • Marieta Akalski Cranks in Spain, Sends Florida (5.14b)
  • Vandalism Across National Parks
  • Sonnie Trotter Establishes His Hardest Trad Climb - Family Man (5.14b)
  • Pete Whittaker Flashes Freerider (5.12d) on El Cap
  • Climber Dies in Fall at Zion National Park
  • Déjà Vu for Women, Ghisolfi Gets First Gold
  • Mina Leslie-Wujastyk Sends Mecca Extension (5.14b)
  • J-Star is Livin' Astro (5.14c)
  • Alex Huber Establishes 10-Pitch Alpine 5.14b
  • Bouldering in Namibia
  • Hukkataival Puts Up "One of the Best Boulders" He's Ever Climbed
  • Surprise in Korea: Ondra Out of Finals, Nice Wins for Schubert and Markovic
  • Scott Cosgrove Gravely Injured
  • Updated! Back-to-Back Strong Sends for Angela Eiter
  • DiGiulian and Marin Send 1,000-Foot 5.14 in Sardinia
  • New Four-Pitch Mixed Testpiece in Utah
  • Fabian Buhl Expands Repertoire With Six-Pitch Silbergeier (5.14a)
  • VIDEO: Mark Heal Makes FA of Holy Rails Sit (V13) in Tuolumne
  • Two V14s in a Day for Dave Graham
  • Oakdale Climbers Festival Themed "A Woman's Reach"
  • Katharina Saurwein Becomes Third Woman to Send Nuthin' But Sunshine (V13)
  • Avalanche Kills Two On 8,000m Himalayan Peak
  • Fred Nicole Sends The Escapist (V14)
  • Canadian Crusher Marieta Akalski Storms Rifle, Sends Her First 5.14a
  • The Naked Edge Done in 26 Minutes, See Video Clip
  • Mountain Guide Latest IS Victim
  • Daniel Woods Bags First Ascent at 14,000 Feet
  • VIDEO: Jorg Verhoeven and Katharina Saurwein Rip It Up in RMNP
  • Lee Sheftel Climbs 5.13b at 68 Years Old
  • Alex Puccio Sends Her Second V14, Wheel of Chaos
  • Brette Harrington Makes Second Female Ascent of the Trad Route Shadow (5.13a)
  • Jon Cardwell Sends Wheel of Chaos (V14) In A Day
  • Cheyne Lempe and Ethan Pringle Climb New Route in Yosemite
  • VIDEO: The Psychology of Climbing Champion Ramón Julián
  • World Cup Climber Sean McColl Dominates American Ninja Warrior
  • Jonathan Siegrist Develops Hard Routes in Idaho
  • Climber Dies From Fall On Mount Garfield, Washington
  • Alex Megos Sends His Longest Project Yet—Geocache
  • VIDEO: Inside the Mind of a Free Soloist - Tom Randall Goes Ropeless
  • Q&A: Yuji Hirayama Wants More UK Trad
  • Nalle Hukkataival Sends V15 Project in Australia
  • James Pearson Flashes Something’s Burning (5.13d X) in Wales
  • Yuji Hirayama Sends 5.13+ R Trad Testpiece
  • Chris Bonington, 80, Sends Old Man of Hoy for his Birthday
  • Alex Puccio's Outdoor Climbing Pays Off At Arco
  • VIDEO: Jonathan Siegrist Climbing Speed Intégrale (5.14d)
  • Ondra Dominates Bouldering Championships, Puccio Takes Silver
  • Alex Honnold Talks About the Risk of Free Soloing
  • Climber Dies in Tuolumne Meadows
  • Alex Puccio Climbs The Automator (V13)
  • Urs Moosmuller Climbs Fathers Day (5.14a) on Gear
  • Q&A: Beat Kammerlander Still Runs It Out
  • Buhrfeind and McColl Win 2014 Psicobloc Masters
  • Famed Utah Tower Falls
  • Angie Payne Gets Freaky with Her Second V13
  • Alex Puccio Sends Jade (V14)
  • Nina Caprez Redpoints All Pitches on Orbayu (5.14b)
  • First All-Female Nepalese Team Summits K2
  • Interview: Alex Megos Climbs Slow, But Sends Fast
  • VIDEO: Coxsey Climbs New Base Line (V14)
  • VIDEO: Nalle Hukkataival on Bügeleisen Sit Start (V15+)
  • Hans Florine, 50, Sets Solo Speed Record for Triple Direct on El Cap
  • Sam Davis Climbs Jade (V14)
  • Q&A: Shauna Coxsey Third Woman to Climb V14
  • Q&A: Alex Megos Sends Biographie/Realization (5.15a) in Three Tries
  •  
    Video Spotlight
    30 Desert Towers - Moab, Utah
    30 Desert Towers - Moab, Utah

    Climbers We Lost in 2013

    30-Dec-2013
    By

    Editors’ note: Such a list is never comprehensive. We may have inadvertently left out other climbers who died this year. Please add your own remembrances about any other—or the following—climbers in the comments. We welcome your additions, comments and images.

     

    Tito Traversa, 12

    Tito Traversa was the future. Photo courtesy of Traversa collection.Nothing, it is safe to say, broke the heart of the world community like the boy who didn’t get to grow up. Tito Traversa of Italy was the future, a climbing prodigy who at 12 already moved as if he’d spent decades refining his craft. He had onsighted 5.13a, sent his fourth 5.14. The young Tito died on a warmup route, out for a day of climbing with a youth group at the mellow-natured area of Orpierre, France. 

    As he clipped the anchor and lowered, several incorrectly set-up quickdraws failed, zippering him to a groundfall. In the wake of shared international grief and soul-searching, climbers took a worried look at the very young stars whose emergence has in recent years been so exciting.

    Wrote Peter Beal on his website Mountains and Water, “[H]is death puts us in very new territory for the sport, where parents especially have to ask what they can do to respect their children's desire to climb while being careful to acknowledge that they are not responsible independent adults.”

    Robyn Erbesfield-Raboutou, parent and youth coach, wrote briefly but also memorably: “Buddy check every time, kiddos, including your gear!”

     

     

     


     

    Layton Kor, 74

    Layton Kor on the first ascent of Monster Tower, Canyonlands, in 1963. Courtesy Layton Kor collection.Kor, who died April 21, was the driving force of a generation, rising to preeminence in the 1950s and 1960s. He burned through partners: from the greats of the day to anyone he might grab to go. His classics in Eldorado Canyon include FAs (using aid, as was common) of the Yellow Spur (5.9) and the Naked Edge (5.11). There were also: the Kor Ingalls (5.9) route on Castleton Tower and Finger of Fate on the Titan, in the Fisher Towers, among others in desert Utah. The Yellow Wall (V 5.8 A4) on the Diamond Face of Long’s Peak. The South Face of Washington Column. Kor’s pictorial memoir Beyond the Vertical is a classic as well.

    Five years ago, when he gave a talk in Boulder, the original venue of Neptune Mountaineering was changed to a university auditorium to accommodate the crowds, and that venue sold out, too, with disappointed people at the doors. That evening Kor talked humorously about being a glutton—“We were hogs,” he said—for climbing. Kor was already in declining health, and speech was viewed as his probable final retrospective. He spoke of climbs worldwide, but did not address the traumatic and defining event of John Harlin’s death in 1966 as they, Christian Bonington and Dougal Haston forged a route up the North Face of the Eiger.

    Among many historic tributes to Kor is this gem from Yvon Chouinard, in describing the first ascent of the North American Wall, El Capitan: “The reason it was so scary was that there was only one climber capable of rescuing us, and that was Layton Kor, and he was in Colorado.”

    Click HERE to read Layton Kor's Obituary by Rock and Ice.

     


     

    Billy Beckwith, 38

    Billy Beckwith hosted an HGTV show while dreaming of nearby Yosemite. Photo by Jeff Johnson.William John “Billy” Beckwith, 38, died in San Francisco on December 2 when a car hit him on his motorcycle. He was the brother of Christian Beckwith, founder of outerlocal.com and former editor of Alpinist. The two grew up on a farm on the coast of Maine, where Billy began climbing at age 15 on the side of the family’s 150-year-old barn.

    “We’d culled rocks from the fields, drilled holes in them using our father’s press drill, bolted them to the barn walls and traversed above the mud,” recalls Christian. They also climbed up under the roof, top-rope protected by a single eyebolt drilled into the roof slats.

    Twenty years of adventure followed. Billy gained North American summits and El Cap routes. In his early 20s, he and Jason Lakey bicycled across Mexico from Texas to Guatemala, on the way summiting Pico de Orizaba with jerry-rigged gear and much spirit.

    Billy worked as a builder, a dancer, an actor, a model, and eventually as co-host of HGTV’s “Curb Appeal.”

    From Christian: “While this ‘day job’ got him in front of millions on TV, his heart remained in the mountains and on the walls, particularly of Yosemite.”

     

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    Randy Udall, 61

    Randy Udall, a lifelong mountain person and energy analyst,  fought to conserve and preserve. Photos by Weston BoylesAfter a weeklong search, Randy Udall, 61, was found in early July: off trail (yet on his intended route), pack on his back and ski poles in hand, in a meadow in the Wind Rivers of Wyoming. He was 61 and had died of natural causes. Udall spent a lifetime in the mountains, was an Outward Bound wilderness instructor, had done plenty of technical climbing but mostly liked mileage, covering huge distances on skis or foot, or scrambling.

    Son of a Congressman, brother and cousin of U.S. senators, Randy was part of a family that championed both public service and preservation of the outdoors. Randy, an energy expert and writer, promoted energy efficiency, conservation, and use of renewable resources, co-founding the progressive yet pragmatic Community Office for Resource Efficiency.

    Udall, who lived in Carbondale, Colorado, was married to Leslie Emerson, an educator and former Outward Bound instructor, daughter of the acclaimed mountaineer Dick Emerson of Tetons climbing and the first American Everest expedition of 51 years ago. Randy Udall left behind three children as well as his wife, a large extended family, and a lifetime of good work.

    Click HERE to see Rock and Ice's original report of Udall's disappearance.

     


     

    Steve Gladbach, 52

    Steve Gladbach, center, with mountain friends. On the left is Britt Jones, and on the right, Josh Friesma.Steve Gladbach, 52, of Pueblo, Colorado, died in a fall on June 23 while descending Thunder Pyramid, a 13,932-foot mountain in the Elk Range of Colorado. He had told his companions he was scouting a different line to return to.

    Gladbach was an experienced mountaineering guide and the first person to ascend all of Colorado 14,000-foot peaks during the winter and reach the summit of all of Colorado’s 13,000-foot peaks.

    He appears by far best remembered, though, as a mentor, who welcomed, coached, and encouraged dozens and dozens of people up mountains. The site 14ers.com was deluged at the time of his death.

    Wrote one person, describing himself as a newbie, of a day on the 14er Mount Elbert: “Kevin and I were the last two reached the summit. There is no way we could make it without Steve's help. I remember I told him he looks like Harrison Ford and he couldn't stop laughing.”

    Gladbach was a high-school math teacher. He left behind two daughters.

     


     

    Steve Johnson, 55

    Steve Johnson.Steve Johnson, 55, of Tucson, a prolific route developer on Mount Lemmon and in the Cochise Stronghold, Arizona, was found on a rope in the Santa Rita mountains. He had been scoping a new wall and route. His body was covered in hundreds of bee stings from a nest he had inadvertently disturbed. The swarm also killed his dog, waiting for him at the top of the cliff.

    Brian Benedon posted on Mountain Project: “Steve was a great person, a simple man with honest values. He was a dedicated family man.”

    Says Eric Fazio-Rhicard, a longtime Arizona climber who was part of the search and recovery effort: “He really was one of those people who would give you the shirt off his back if you needed it.”

    Johnson was an integral part of development of many routes along the Mt. Lemmon Highway and other areas. He found and led climbing efforts at an area called Revindell, putting in a dozen bolted lines. His last find was a place he called Avalon, at Mount Lemmon. It became a destination for moderate leaders, replete with a few trad lines and at least a dozen sport climbs ranging from 5.4 to 5.12.

    He leaves behind two sons, Kyle and Ryan, and a daughter, Deven.

     

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    Alexey Bolotov, 50

    Alexey Bolotov.Alexey Bolotov, 50, died May 14, 2013, while trying to establish a new route on the SW Face of Everest.

    Bolotov was that rarity, a winner of two Piolets d’Or awards, one in 1998 for Makalu West Face and another for the Janna North Face expedition. He was also veteran of many Everest trips and success on Khan Tengri and Thalay Sagar. He was with another leading high-altitude climber, Denis Urubko, a Kazakh climber. Urubko wrote on the Russian website Mountain.ru that Bolotov when a rappel rope severed, and he fell 300 meters.

    Bolotov was from Ekaterinburg, Russia, and was rated the USSR mountaineering champion in 1987.

     


     

    Yang Chunfeng, 45

    Yang Chunfeng, 45, was one of 11 innocent mountaineers killed in the terrorist attack June 22 on Nanga Parbat. He had climbed Everest in 2007 and 2009, and Cho Oyu in 2008 among 11 of the world’s 14 highest peaks, the only Chinese climber to ascend so many. His other peaks were Manaslu, Dhaulagiri, Kanchenjunga, Gasherbrum II, Gasherbrum I Annapurna, Lhotse, K2 and Makalu, according to the South China Morning Post.

    Sixteen attackers stormed basecamp on Nanga Parbat at about 9:30 p.m., hauling climbers and staff from their tents, first robbing them and then destroying all electronics such as satellite and mobile phones, and finally shooting some. The Pakistani Taliban later claimed responsibility.

    The other victims, all male, were: Igor Sviergun, Badavi Kashaiev and Konyayev Dmytro (Ukraine); Anton Dobes and Peter Perka (Slovakia); Honglu Chen (China-American dual citizenship); Sona Sherpa (Nepal); Ernestas Marksaitis (Lithuania); and Ali Hussain (Pakistan).

    In an open letter to the UIAA, the president of the Alpine Club of Pakistan wrote: “I take this opportunity to express our deepest and heartfelt condolences, share grief and sincerely apologize for the tragic loss of these mountaineering comrades … [G]eneral masses and Government of Pakistan are shocked and shattered.”

    Read Is Pakistan Safe for Climbers?

     


     

    Marty, 53, and Denali, 25, Schmidt

    Marty Schmidt on Makalu. Photo by Chris Warner.Marty and Denali Schmidt. The father-son team last radioed from Camp 3 on the Abruzzi Ridge, K2, on July 26. Sometime that night or the next day both were lost in an avalanche that wiped out their camp.

    Marty, 53, was an experienced American guide and mountaineer who had moved to New Zealand. He had started climbing in California in 1972, soon became a guide, and progressed to climbs in Alaska (climbing Denali three times in the 1983 season) and South America. In 1988 he moved to New Zealand, guiding many peaks there and in Europe. In 2010 he attempted a new route on Makalu, rescued his ill partner, and then climbed the mountain solo even after rescuing three Ukrainian climbers on the way. His resume, in fact, contains rescues on Denali, Aconcagua and Everest – as well as one of nine people from a hotel fire in the Philippines, according to everestnews.com.

    He climbed a new route on Everest, from Tibet, in 1994, and guided the mountain only this past spring. According to http://climber.co.nz, he also summited Kangchenjunga; guided (three times) and soloed (twice) Cho Oyu; and climbed Gasherbrum I and II solo.

    Denali, 25, had recently graduated from California College of the Arts in San Francisco, and was an experienced climber as well.

    As described by the American climber Jake Norton on his website: “In 2001, Marty and Denali had a climbing tour-de-force in Alaska, guiding clients to the North and South summits of Mount McKinley (Denali), then climbing the Sultana Ridge on Mt. Foraker before sending a new route on the Southwest Face of Denali in a 29-pitch, 29-hour blitz. The route was pretty burly, and aptly named Dad and Son (5.10 A2 WI5).”

    After the tragedy, a British climber, Adrian Hayes, released a statement from basecamp: "Marty and Denali ... were very well known, highly experienced and extremely strong mountaineers - the last people many would expect to be killed on a mountain."

    A eulogy posted by their friend and Broad Peak/ K2 teammate Chris Warner (Australia) on climber.co.nz states, “In my 18 years of climbing this is the most tragic of accidents I have personally experienced.”

    Warner called the trio’s acclimatization climb of Broad Peak “comfortable,” writing: “Both Marty and Denali were climbing strong on the mountain with Denali showing all the talent of his father, he had his father’s legs, lungs and heart. It was inspiring to watch a 8000m novice climb with such ease.”

     

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    Kevin Volkening, 25

    Kevin Volkening. Photo courtesy of Black Diamond.Kevin Volkening, 25, a Black Diamond engineer and employee, was killed climbing in Clark’s Fork, Wyoming, on August 30. “K-Bone,” as he was fondly known, had led up the final pitch of a moderate route when a block dropped out from beneath him. He fell about 50 feet, hitting a ledge. He was wearing a helmet and his friends reached him swiftly, but to no avail.

    Kevin graduated from Montana State University in Bozeman in 2012 with a degree in chemical and biological engineering, having also gained many days of climbing in Gallatin Canyon. A year and a half before the accident he moved to Salt Lake City to take his dream job, working for Black Diamond in quality assurance, and to be near his favorite climbing area, Indian Creek.

    The Black Diamond website posted this note: “Kevin was always smiling, always willing to help out and always…ALWAYS psyched to climb. The tag line from his personal blog reads ‘I LOVE to climb…everything,’ and it was true—from rock and ice all across the Western US and alpine routes in Alaska, to local bouldering and training at the gym—Kevin was a climber, and shared his positive energy with everyone.”

    A friend, Will Parrett, posted this comment: “Most people at BD consider themselves climbers, that is, until they meet K-Bone. Climbing was everything to Kevin, second only to his lovely Wife (perhaps 1A and 1B). Whether asleep, at work, or in his spare time, K-Bone lived climbing. He did it well, was humble, and was more stoked when a buddy sent a route than when he did.”

    He is survived by his wife, Marge Coyle Volkening; his parents, sisters and extended family.

     


     

    John Ewbank, 65

    John Ewbank on Clockwork Orange in the Blue Mountains in 1993. Photo by Greg Child.John Ewbank pioneered hundreds, possibly over 1,000, new routes across his adopted homeland of Australia, with many still considered among the country’s great classics of today. His Janicepts (21 / 5.11a) at Mount Piddington was for years the hardest climb in the country; he was the first to climb the world-famous Totem Pole in Tasmania; he started Australia’s first climbing magazine, known as Thrutch; and he originated Australia’s enviably simple rock-climbing rating system.

    A creative force in and out of climbing, Ewbank later moved to the United States, pursuing careers in music and in fine woodcraft in New York City, with recreational climbing at the nearby Shawangunks and further north, in New Hampshire. Ewbank died at (or within weeks of turning) age 65 in New York following a series of surgeries, the last an abdominal surgery from which he was healing poorly.

    During his time in New York, he released two CD’s (still available), named “Songs From the Bright Side (of a dark cell)” and “Stark Raving Songs.”

     

    See Ewbank's Obituary by Rock and Ice

     

     

     


     

    Jarad Spackman, 40

    Jarad Spackman graduated summa cum laude in international finance from the University of Colorado, and returned to his native Jackson to work in real estate with his father and brother.  Photo by Christian Beckwith. Jarad Spackman, 40, was a snowboard mountaineer and a lifelong climber with dozens of ascents in the Tetons. He died March 1 when he was avalanched about 1,000 feet from Apocalypse Couloir near the mouth of Death Canyon, Grand Teton National Park. His companion in the ski mountaineering foray, during which an adjacent steep chute as their objective, was Christian Beckwith. Beckwith reached and found him, but resuscitation efforts were futile.

    The energetic and positive Spackman, a realtor as well as all-around mountain athlete, left a wife and family.

    An obituary in the Jackson Hole News paraphrased Jarad’s brother Brandon in writing: “He was a world-class athlete, a connected community member, a loving husband, a special friend, a talented businessman, a much-loved son and an incredible brother.” Jarad and Brandon climbed in Alaska, the Himalaya, Antarctica and Iceland, while Jarad and his wife, Stephanie, rock climbed across the United States, to Cuba and Thailand.

     

    Climbers We Lost in 2014

     

    Climbers We Lost in 2012

     

     

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