• Gabriele Moroni Finishes Three-Year Project—Goldrake (5.15a)
  • Martin Stranik Repeats Practice of the Wild (V15)
  • Libby Sauter and Mayan Smith-Gobat Break El Cap Speed Record
  • Nina Caprez Sends 5.14b at a New Crag in Turkey
  • Ondra and Kim Back on Top at Inzai World Cup
  • Marieta Akalski Cranks in Spain, Sends Florida (5.14b)
  • Vandalism Across National Parks
  • Sonnie Trotter Establishes His Hardest Trad Climb - Family Man (5.14b)
  • Climber Dies in Fall at Zion National Park
  • Pete Whittaker Flashes Freerider (5.12d) on El Cap
  • Déjà Vu for Women, Ghisolfi Gets First Gold
  • Mina Leslie-Wujastyk Sends Mecca Extension (5.14b)
  • J-Star is Livin' Astro (5.14c)
  • Alex Huber Establishes 10-Pitch Alpine 5.14b
  • Bouldering in Namibia
  • Hukkataival Puts Up "One of the Best Boulders" He's Ever Climbed
  • Surprise in Korea: Ondra Out of Finals, Nice Wins for Schubert and Markovic
  • Scott Cosgrove Gravely Injured
  • Updated! Back-to-Back Strong Sends for Angela Eiter
  • DiGiulian and Marin Send 1,000-Foot 5.14 in Sardinia
  • Fabian Buhl Expands Repertoire With Six-Pitch Silbergeier (5.14a)
  • New Four-Pitch Mixed Testpiece in Utah
  • Katharina Saurwein Becomes Third Woman to Send Nuthin' But Sunshine (V13)
  • VIDEO: Mark Heal Makes FA of Holy Rails Sit (V13) in Tuolumne
  • Two V14s in a Day for Dave Graham
  • Oakdale Climbers Festival Themed "A Woman's Reach"
  • Avalanche Kills Two On 8,000m Himalayan Peak
  • Fred Nicole Sends The Escapist (V14)
  • Canadian Crusher Marieta Akalski Storms Rifle, Sends Her First 5.14a
  • The Naked Edge Done in 26 Minutes, See Video Clip
  • Mountain Guide Latest IS Victim
  • Daniel Woods Bags First Ascent at 14,000 Feet
  • VIDEO: Jorg Verhoeven and Katharina Saurwein Rip It Up in RMNP
  • Lee Sheftel Climbs 5.13b at 68 Years Old
  • Alex Puccio Sends Her Second V14, Wheel of Chaos
  • Brette Harrington Makes Second Female Ascent of the Trad Route Shadow (5.13a)
  • Cheyne Lempe and Ethan Pringle Climb New Route in Yosemite
  • Jon Cardwell Sends Wheel of Chaos (V14) In A Day
  • VIDEO: The Psychology of Climbing Champion Ramón Julián
  • World Cup Climber Sean McColl Dominates American Ninja Warrior
  • Jonathan Siegrist Develops Hard Routes in Idaho
  • Alex Megos Sends His Longest Project Yet—Geocache
  • Climber Dies From Fall On Mount Garfield, Washington
  • Q&A: Yuji Hirayama Wants More UK Trad
  • VIDEO: Inside the Mind of a Free Soloist - Tom Randall Goes Ropeless
  • Nalle Hukkataival Sends V15 Project in Australia
  • James Pearson Flashes Something’s Burning (5.13d X) in Wales
  • Yuji Hirayama Sends 5.13+ R Trad Testpiece
  • Chris Bonington, 80, Sends Old Man of Hoy for his Birthday
  • Alex Puccio's Outdoor Climbing Pays Off At Arco
  • VIDEO: Jonathan Siegrist Climbing Speed Intégrale (5.14d)
  • Ondra Dominates Bouldering Championships, Puccio Takes Silver
  • Alex Honnold Talks About the Risk of Free Soloing
  • Climber Dies in Tuolumne Meadows
  • Alex Puccio Climbs The Automator (V13)
  • Urs Moosmuller Climbs Fathers Day (5.14a) on Gear
  • Q&A: Beat Kammerlander Still Runs It Out
  • Buhrfeind and McColl Win 2014 Psicobloc Masters
  • Famed Utah Tower Falls
  • Angie Payne Gets Freaky with Her Second V13
  • Alex Puccio Sends Jade (V14)
  • Nina Caprez Redpoints All Pitches on Orbayu (5.14b)
  • First All-Female Nepalese Team Summits K2
  • Interview: Alex Megos Climbs Slow, But Sends Fast
  • VIDEO: Coxsey Climbs New Base Line (V14)
  • VIDEO: Nalle Hukkataival on Bügeleisen Sit Start (V15+)
  • Hans Florine, 50, Sets Solo Speed Record for Triple Direct on El Cap
  • Q&A: Shauna Coxsey Third Woman to Climb V14
  • Sam Davis Climbs Jade (V14)
  • Q&A: Alex Megos Sends Biographie/Realization (5.15a) in Three Tries
  • Q&A: Mirko Caballero Claims His 2nd V14
  • Respected Climber Falls 50 Feet and Dies at Cathedral Ledge
  • Coxsey and Caballero Climb V14
  • Ashima Shiraishi, 13, Becomes Second Female to Climb V14
  • Mélissa Le Nevé Sends Baa Baa Black Sheep (5.14b/c)
  • Alex Puccio Sends Nuthin’ But Sunshine (V13)
  • Q&A: Joe Kinder Climbs Punks in the Gym (5.14a) in a Downpour
  • Q&A: Sam Elias and Mike Kerzhner Fire 3rd Ascent of El Cap's PreMuir (5.13+)
  • Austin Siadak Solos Evolution Traverse in a Day
  • Roland Hemetzberger Frees Multi-Pitch 5.14a in Zillertal, Austria
  • Q&A: Mirko Caballero flashes his first V11 in South Africa
  • Kyle Vassilopoulos Establishes 130-Foot 5.14 at Wolf Point
  • Hukkataival Climbs Alpine Sport Testpiece Sibergeier (5.14a)
  • Chattanooga's Take on Buildering
  • Alex Megos Frees 20-Pitch 5.14b in Switzerland
  • Trotter, Caldwell, Wharton Put Up Six-Pitch Route in Sicily
  • Jes Meiris Beats Female Solo Speed Record of the Nose by 4 Days
  • Eitan Green, 28, Remembered
  • Kilian Jornet Smashes Speed Record on Denali
  • 7-Up: Honnold and Allfrey Climb 7 El Cap Routes in 7 Days
  • How To Be a Xena of Rock Climbing
  • Vail World Cup Comp Report: Noguchi repeats from last weekend, Sharafutdinov from last time at Vail
  • Emily Harrington Runs It Out to Send Tom et Je Ris (5.14a)
  • David Mason Sends 20 Problems (V11-V13) in Vastervik, Sweden
  • Mark Anderson Establishes the Hardest Route at Independence Pass
  • Six Presumed Dead After 3,000-Foot Fall On Mount Rainier
  • Q&A: Jonathan Siegrist Sends Biographie/Realization (5.15a)
  • Nick Duttle Sends 10 New River Gorge 5.14s in One Month
  • Ryan Jennings and Kevin Cooper Climb Major New Route in Alaska
  • Dean Potter Responds to Criticism About Flying with His Dog
  • New Yosemite Classic: First Free Ascent of The Unemployment Line (5.12-)
  • Alex Luger Frees "Psycho" 5.14 Trad Route
  • Mélissa Le Nevé Makes First Female Ascent of Wallstreet (5.14b)
  • Jimmy Webb Sends Jour de Chasse (V15) in 15 minutes
  • Ondra Climbs Two 5.14ds and One 5.15a - Plus Amazing Send Footage
  • Interview: Megos Sends Another 5.14d in Two Hours
  • Q&A: Ethan Pringle Gives Some Love to Jumbo Love (5.15b)
  • Nalle Hukkataival Sends Emotional Landscapes (V15)
  • Ondra Onsights Il Domani (5.14d)
  • Interview: Hukkataival on Bügeleisen Sit: Hardest in the World?
  • Special Report: Enough Misinformation, The Truth of Everest
  • Adam Ondra Climbs Two 5.14d’s While Training for the World Cup
  • Wharton Frees Hallucinogen in A Day
  • A Tribute To Our Brother, Ankaji Sherpa
  • 14-Year-Old Kai Lightner Climbs Lucifer (5.14c)
  • Jimmy Webb Climbs Multiple V15s in Magic Wood, Switzerland
  • Fransico “Novato” Marín Is the Oldest Person in the World to Climb 5.14a
  • Rad Video: Mirko Caballero Climbing Meadowlark Lemon
  • Save Getu Climbing From Destruction
  • Jan Hojer Sends The Story of Two Worlds (V15) and Big Kat (V14)
  • Jonathan Siegrist Establishes 5.14 Testpiece at Quality Arizona Crag
  • Alpine Ascent of the Season: Lindic and Krajnc Free Rolling Stones
  • Shauna Coxsey Climbs Her Second V13 in Albarracín, Spain
  • Video: Rok Klancnik Makes Third Ascent of Bügeleisen (V14/15)
  • Hazel Findlay Becomes the First British Woman to Climb 5.14b
  • Sasha DiGiulian Climbs Red Bull Stadium
  • David Roetzel Solos 15 Pitches of Hard Ice in One Day
  • Ueli Steck's Solo, Slawinsky and Welsted's K6 Ascent Win Piolets d'Or
  • Is Bishop World Class? Niccolò Ceria Says Don’t Believe The Hype
  • Dani Arnold Free Solos 1,100-Foot WI 6 in 27 Minutes!
  • Jimmy Webb Sends The Story of Two Worlds (V15) in Switzerland
  • Mirko Caballero Becomes Youngest Person to Climb V14
  • Katy Whittaker Climbs China Crisis (5.14a)
  • Sean "Stanley" Leary Killed BASE Jumping
  • Red Flag! Help protect access to the Red River Gorge’s most popular crag.
  • American Climbers Crush in Switzerland
  • Stefan Glowacz and Chris Sharma Attempt Massive Oman Cave Route
  • Mark Anderson Makes Third Ascent of Mission Impossible (5.14c/d)
  • Crazy Video: Free-Solo Aerial Dancing
  • Isabelle Faus Climbs the World’s First V12 Trice
  • Barbara Zangerl Sends the Spicy Trad Pitch Prinzip Hoffnung (5.14a)
  • Five Ten Adds Mirko Caballero to their Elite Team
  • VIDEO: Woods and Webb Crush The Nest (V15)
  • The Secret Climb of Chris Sharma and Stefan Glowacz
  • Cool Vid: Dave Graham's Process and Send of Foundation's Edge (V15)
  • Dan Goodwin Sets New World Record for Longest Lead Climb
  • Avalanche Kills Two Climbers in the Caucasus Mountains
  • Nepalese Government To Penalize Everest Climbers Who Leave Trash
  • Final Update: UIAA Ice Climbing World Cup and Olympics
  • Sean O’Neill Becomes First Paraplegic to Climb Bridal Veil Falls
  • Climbing Borders: Non-Profit Uses Climbing to Help At-Risk Youth
  • Piolets d’Or 2014 Nominations Announced
  • Nepal Changes Fees to Climb Everest: But Are They Lower or Higher?
  • Puccio and Woods Each Win Eighth ABS National Titles
  • Charlie Porter Dies
  • Nalle Hukkataival Nabs Third Ascent of Gioia (V16)
  • Ian McNaught-Davis: 1929-2014
  • Will Gadd and Team Make First Ascent of Overhead Hazard (M13+)
  • Woods and Wurm Win 21st Annual Hueco Rock Rodeo
  • Paul Robinson Establishes New V14 in Hueco Tanks
  • Sharma to Chouinard in a Weekend
  • Honnold and Caldwell Complete First Ascent of Fitz Traverse
  • Chad Kellogg Killed in Patagonia
  • Help Protect Eagle Bluff in Clifton, Maine
  • Updated: Magnus Midtbø is STILL Working on Neanderthal (5.15b)
  • Film Review: The Last Great Climb
  • New Multi-Pitch M11 Mixed-Route Goes Up in Ouray, Colorado
  • Jay Renneberg Remembered
  • Update: UIAA Ice Climbing World Cup in Switzerland and France
  • Adam Ondra Nabs Second Ascent of First Round, First Minute (5.15b)
  • Record Conditions for Redstone Winterfest
  • Q&A: Daniel Woods Gets "Obsessed" to Send Lucid Dreaming (V15)
  • Mount Washington Valley Ice Fest Celebrates 21 Years
  • 70-Year-Old Legends Tick Bird Brain Boulevard (IV Wi 5)
  • Help Open Climbing in Hawaii
  • Daniel Woods Sends Lucid Dreaming (V15)
  • Update: Climber Found Unresponsive at Rock Gym and Declared Dead
  • Cardwell and Puccio Win Di'Namik Comp
  • VIDEO: David Lama and Dani Arnold on First Ascent of Moose's Tooth
  • Update: UIAA Ice Climbing World Cup
  • Greg Mortenson Grateful for Allegations
  • Q&A: Honnold Takes A "Step Forward" by Soloing El Sendero Luminoso
  • Honnold Free-Solos the 1,750-Foot El Sendero Luminoso (5.12d)
  • Climbing Friend Accused of Killing Geoff Farrar at Carderock
  • John Long Writing Symposium Announced
  • Best In Gear For 2014
  • French Stars Storm Ouray: Mercier and Maureau Win 2014 Mixed Comp
  • VIDEO: Bernd Zangerl's Hardest Problem Yet--V16?
  • Robert Jasper Sends Cutting Edge Mixed Climb: The Black Death
  • Two Killed on Aconcagua
  • VIDEO: Sasha DiGiulian and Edu Marin Send Bellavista (5.14b)
  • 2014 Spitzer Award Winners
  • Roskelley First American Awarded Piolet d’Or Career Award
  • Raw Send Footage of Adam Ondra on New 5.14d First Ascent
  • John Ewbank, 1948-Dec. 2, 2013
  • The Hardest Pitch in Yosemite Goes Down!
  • Mallorca Access Problems for Climbers
  • Paige Claassen Sends India's Hardest Route--Ganesh (5.14)
  • Will Gadd Edged Out at Bozeman UIAA Mixed Comp
  • David Lama Solos New Winter Route in the Alps
  • Webb and Woods Both Send/Downgrade Meadowlark Lemon (V15/14)
  • Jan Hojer Claims V15 First Ascent in Fontainebleau
  • Tommy Caldwell Is Back on the Dawn Wall!
  • Exclusive Dawn Wall Videos: Episodes 3 & 4
  • Interview with Ondra on New 5.15c
  • Ondra Climbs Third 5.15c
  • Watch the Exclusive Dawn Wall Project: Episodes 1 & 2
  • Interview with Ty Landman on the Smiling Buttress FA
  • New Psychological 5.13d Testpiece in the Alps
  • Jimmy Webb Wins La Sportiva Legends Only 2013 Comp
  • Andy Turner Gets Second Ascent Of Powerdab (M13)
  • Muriel Sarkany Becomes Fourth Woman to Redpoint 5.14d
  • Liberty Cap Gets Second FFA of the Year: Scarface (5.12)
  • Q&A: Daniel Woods Defies Gravity
  • How-To's for Gym-Outdoor Transition, Barry Blanchard Memoir and More!
  • Defying Gravity (V15) FA for Daniel Woods
  • Boswell and Bullock Go Big in Canada
  • First Ascent of Unclimbed Peak in the Everest Region, Nepal
  • Building Ethiopia's Potential: Rock Climbing Near Addis Ababa
  • Ryan Vachon Sends M12 Testpiece on Gear
  • Cheyne Lempe Sets New Solo Record on El Cap
  • Gear Guide Contest Winners
  • Jimmy Webb Sends Bridge of Ashes (V15/14) in a Session
  • Updated: Three New Ice Routes on Mt. Evans, Colorado
  • Kevin Jorgeson Is Still Gunning for the Dawn Wall
  • Interview: Daniel Woods on His Hardest Boulder Problem Yet
  • Tommy Caldwell Hurt on the Dawn Wall
  • Jimmy Webb Repeats The Penrose Step (V14)
  • Get power the German way: New training book, new guidebooks and MORE
  • Q&A: Paul Robinson Sends Jaws II (5.15a)
  • Interview: Hazel Findlay Climbs Freerider (5.12d) on El Cap
  • New Ice Route on the Diamond: Window Pain (WI 6+)
  • Ondra Sends Three 5.14d's in One Day
  • Send in your Accident Reports and Win $1000 in Gear
  • Update: Jimmy Webb Flashes Two V12s, One V13 at Leavenworth
  • Interview and Video: Pete Whittaker on the First Ascent of Baron Greenback (5.13d R)
  • Rumney Local Makes Fourth Ascent of Jaws II (5.15a)
  • Traversi Takes Down the Leavenworth Project to Establish The Penrose Step (V14)
  • Graham Makes FA of Foundation's Edge (V15) in Switzerland
  • Woman Paraplegic Climbs El Cap Despite Yosemite's Closure
  • In the Cloud (V12): Hardest Boulder Problem Established by a Woman?
  • Sisu Masters 2013: Finland's Unique Bouldering Competition
  • Megos Makes Easy Work of Kalymnos Climbing Festival
  • Update: New Info on Ueli Steck's 28-Hour Solo of Annapurna's South Face
  • Ueli Steck Summits Annapurna's South Face ... Solo!
  • Sharma to Try New Clark Mountain Project, Possible 5.15+
  • Nick Duttle Sends 5.13 at 14,000 Feet
  • Yosemite Climbers Keep Climbing Despite Shutdown
  • Ashima Shiraishi Makes First Female Ascent of 24 Karats (5.14c) in the Red
  • UPDATED: Rave Reviews and Sleepless Sending at 24 Hours of Horseshoe Hell
  • Chris Sharma to Try Dawn Wall Project on El Cap
  • Q&A: Paige Claassen on Sending One of the Word's Hardest Slabs--Art Attack (5.14b)
  • Government Shutdown Forces National Park Closures
  • New Female Speed Record on El Cap's Nose by Smith-Gobat and Sauter
  • Fatal Gym Accident
  • Memoirs of Big Walls and Peaks; Tahoe bouldering, Sonora Pass, Missouri Granite
  • Two More 5.15a's for Ondra in Norway
  • New Route on Kapura Peak, Pakistan
  • Yesterday's Gear Guide Giveaway Winner Announced!
  • Bellavista for MacLeod and Cassidy
  • Amazing Helicopter Mountain Rescue Caught on Video!
  • Ueli Steck Heads Back to Himalaya
  • Wide Boy Randall Ticks Cobra Crack (5.14) on Last Day
  • Wide Boy Pete Whittaker Sends the Cobra Crack (5.14)
  • New 5.14 Alpine Route on Mt. Hooker, Wyoming
  • Arizona Climbing Area at Risk of Destruction
  • More V15's for Graham and Webb
  • Wharton and Walsh Send the North Pillar of Twins Tower
  • Yesterday's Gear Guide Giveaway Winner Announced Here!
  • Polish Team Establishes New Route on Great Trango Tower
  • Kilian Jornet and Emelie Forsberg Rescued from Frendo Spur
  • Daniel Woods Spins The Wheel of Wolvo (V15)
  • Kausch Breaks Record for 6000m Peaks Climbed in Andes
  • Barbara Zangerl Sends Des Kaisers neue Kleider (5.14a) and Completes the Alpine Trilogy
  • Heritage Featuring Carlo Traversi in Switzerland
  • Fischhuber and Stöhr Win European Bouldering Championships
  • Five Ten announces winners of 2013 CORE Awards
  • Trotter Sends New 5.14 Big Wall
  • Black Diamond Engineer Killed in Climbing Fall
  • 12-Year-Old Mirko Caballero Climbs His First 5.14b
  • New Guides to Bouldering in the Winds, Shuteye Ridge, Yosemite and More
  • Interview: Being Alex Megos
  • Ashima Sends V13 in Colorado
  • Alex Megos Establishes 5.15a Link-Up in Australia’s Grampians
  • Manslaughter Charges Filed in Death of Tito Traversa
  • Federation President Killed on G1
  • IFSC 2013 World Youth Championship Results
  • Mario Richard Killed in BASE Jump
  • Alex Megos Establishes Australia's First 5.14d
  • 12-Year-Olds Mirko Caballero and Ashima Shiraishi Send V13 in Magic Wood
  • New 5.12d Free Route on The Eiger's North Face
  • Sasha DiGiulian Makes First Female Ascent of Bellavista (5.14b) in the Dolomites
  • DiGiulian Continues to Roll, Onsights Italy’s Pole Position (5.13c)
  • Weekend Whipper: Psicobloc Choss
  • Mount Everest: New Regulations and "Government Mechanism" to Police Mountain
  • New 5.13b Free Route in Yosemite Valley by Mason Earle
  • Adam Ondra Makes First Ascent of Iron Curtain (5.15b)
  • DiGiulian and Webb Win Psicobloc: Photos and Video
  • Updated: Tommy Caldwell Repeats The Path (5.14 R)
  • Father and Son Killed on K2
  • Rocklands Climbing In Jeopardy
  • New Route Opened in Alaska's Rugged Revelation Mountains
  • Alex Honnold to Climb a Building on Live T.V. but Which One?
  • Weekend Whipper: How to Spot a Bad Spotter
  • New Guidebooks! Beta for Fitz Roy, Rifle and More ...
  • Alex Honnold and Cedar Wright Traverse California's 14ers By Bike and Free Solo
  • 24,278-Foot Mountain in Karakoram Finally Sees First Ascent
  • Gérôme Pouvreau Sends Silbergeier (5.14a) in the Rätikon
  • Kilian Jornet Breaks Speed Record on Mont Blanc
  • DiGiulian Cranks Another 5.14 First Ascent
  • Siegrist Repeats Moonshine (5.14d) in Wyoming
  • Ullrich and Muskett Climb Indian Face (E9 6c/5.13ax)
  • Interview: Adam Ondra About Onsighting La Cabane au Canada (5.14d)
  • Weekend Whipper: Don't Get Your Foot Caught!
  • Remembering Layton Kor
  • Brain Puzzle Winner, Wins!
  • Sasha DiGiulian Cranks the First Ascent of a 5.14c in South Africa
  • Alex Megos Sends The Wheel of Life (V15)
  • Adam Ondra Onsights La Cabane Au Canada (5.14d)
  • Paige Claassen Opens 5.14, Starts Charity Tour
  • 12-Year-Old Tito Traversa Dies From Climbing Fall
  • Austrians Make Second Ascent of Ozturk and Wilkinson's Tooth Traverse in Alaska
  • Randy Udall, Missing in Wind Rivers, Has Deep Mountain Roots
  • Five Ten Accepting Applicants for 2013 CORE AWARD
  • Enormocast Features Rock and Ice Publisher Duane Raleigh
  • Jimmy Webb Crushing Rocklands, South Africa
  • Shauna Coxsey Cranks First Female Ascent of Nuthin' But Sunshine (V13)
  • Video: James Kassay on the First Ascent of The Wheel of Life Direct (V16)
  • Ramonet Sends Sharma's Tierra Negra (5.14d/.15a) Second Try
  • Colorado Man Dies on Grand Teton
  • Nine Climbers Murdered on Nanga Parbat
  • 12-Year-Old Mirko Caballero Crushes In Europe
  • Nalle Hukkataival Sends Long-Standing Swiss Project
  • Two Events Commemorate Layton Kor
  • The Future of Bouldering?
  • Dave Graham Cranks the Second Ascent of The Full Circle (V14)
  • Daring High Altitude Rescue on Everest Sets Records
  • Alex Puccio Third, Stöhr and Sharafutdinov Win Vail World Cup
  • Yosemite's Liberty Cap Goes Free
  • Sharma and Crew Bring First Deep Water Soloing Competition to America!
  • Climber Dies on El Cap
  • New Climbing Area Purchased in Kentucky
  • Climbing Doesn't Make Olympics
  • Possible 5.15a by Steve McClure
  • Whittaker Says Missed Sex and Salad Most
  • 5.14d First Ascent for Adam Ondra
  • Nico Favresse Sends His Hardest Crack Climb!
  • Five Climbers Missing on Kangchenjunga
  • Tragic Climbing Accident at Tahquitz Rock, California
  • Trotter, Cardwell, Traversi and Schulte Join Photo Camp
  • Kenton Cool and Dorje Gylgen Sherpa Summit Nuptse, Everest and Lhotse
  • Updated: Death on El Cap
  • Woods and Robinson Send The Ice Knife (V15)
  • Daniel Woods Establishes New V14
  • Death on Everest
  • National Park Service Authorizes Fixed Anchors in Wilderness
  • Alexander Megos Sends Frankenjura's Hardest
  • Visiting Climbers Ignored Bolt Ban, Prompting Armenian Basalt Closure
  • Climbing Banned at Idaho's Castle Rocks
  • 5.14c Onsight for Adam Ondra
  • Climbing Banned on Armenian Basalt Columns
  • James Pearson Skips Bolts and Places Gear on 5.14a
  • 5.15a First Ascent for Alex Megos
  • Ueli Steck Attacked on Everest
  • Help Layton Kor's Family
  • Lama and Arnold Blitz New Route in Alaska
  • Q&A: Samuel Johnson Solos Mount Hayes
  • Barbara Raudner Climbs Mind Control (5.14c)
  • Female Onsight of Los Humildes pa Casa (5.14a)
  • Sachi Amma Throws Down in Spain
  • Interview: Wilder Sends 5.13d Trad at the New River Gorge
  • 13-Year-Old Drew Ruana Climbs To Bolt or Not to Be (5.14a)
  • Said Belhaj Cranks 5.14d Second Try
  • Climber Dies in Clear Creek Canyon, Colorado
  • Hard New Mixed Route in Alaska's Kichatna Range
  • Nalle Hukkataival Repeats Bügeleisen (V14)
  • First Ski Descent of Grand Teton North Face
  • Solid Gold: Dan Mirsky Opens New 5.14c
  • Joshua Tree Climbing Area Closed Due to Vandalism
  • Sherpa Killed Fixing Lines on Everest
  • VIDEO#2: Honnold Sending A Gift From Wyoming
  • Daniel Woods and Charlotte Durif Win SCS Nationals
  • Everyone Wins at Piolets d'Or
  • VIDEO: Honnold Sending A Gift from Wyoming (5.13) in Yosemite
  • Ramon Julian Sends Three New 5.14's in Spain
  • Hazel Findlay Sends 5.13c Trad Testpiece
  • VIDEO: Robert Jasper's Trad M12 Scarefest
  • Emmett and Gresham Do First One-Day Ascent of Three Welsh Classics
  • Carlo Traversi Sends New V15 in Switzerland
  • Megos Strikes Again with 5.15a Second Try
  • VIDEO: Guntram Jörg Sends V14 in the Canary Islands
  • Q&A: Traversi vs The Story of Two Worlds (V15)
  • Sasha DiGiulian Sends Two 5.14bs in One Day
  • Traversi Repeats The Story of Two Worlds (V15)
  • World's First 5.14d Onsight!
  • Chris Sharma Sends La Dura Dura (5.15c)
  • George Lowe, Member of Everest '53 Team, Dead at 89
  • Piolets d'Or Committee Hails Controversial Cerro Torre Climbs
  • The Struggle For Portugal's Hardest Sport Climb
  • Paul Robinson Cranks New V15
  • Lama, Ortner, and Auer Claim Bold Winter Ascent
  • Bouldering and Speed Climbing Join 2020 Olympic Bid
  • VIDEO: Magnus Midtbø Sends Ciudad de Dios (5.14d/.15a) in Santa Linya, Spain.
  • 5.13 First Free Ascents in Chile
  • Weekend Whipper: 60-Foot Fall!
  • VIDEO: Mina Leslie-Wujastyk Does FFA of Jason's Roof (V10/11)
  • Caldwell and Honnold Rip it Up in Zion
  • Kennedy/Dempster 3rd of Ogre Nominated for Piolet d'Or
  • Three North Faces, Solo, in Winter. Check.
  • Ethical Debate: Dave MacLeod's Routes Disputed
  • Daniel Woods Repeats Bridge of Ashes (V15)
  • 10-Year-Old Sends God's Own Stone (5.14a) in the Red
  • Missing Climbers Declared Dead on Broad Peak
  • Massive Ice Climbing Fall!
  • Dave Graham Sends New V15
  • VIDEO: Emily Harrington on Ice and Mixed Climbing
  • Weekend Whipper: Climber Falls Big on Cobra Crack
  • SICK VIDEO: Ondra Sends Change 5.15c
  • VIDEO: Interview With Adam Ondra
  • VIDEO: Alex Honnold in Chile
  • Two Polish Climbers Feared Dead on Broad Peak
  • Rope Jumping with Dan Osman
  • VIDEO: Mina Leslie-Wujastyk Does FFA of Careless Torque (V11)
  • Q&A: Schulte Sends V15 in Font
  • Solo Climber Dies in Fall
  • Weekend Whipper: Steve McClure on Rhapsody (E11)
  • VIDEO: Chris Sharma, Witness the Fitness (V15)
  • Jasper's Trad M12 Scarefest
  • Schulte Cranking in Font
  • Toru Nakajima Sends The Big Island (V15)
  • Spannuth Repeats La Rêve (5.14d)
  • New M12/13 in Montana
  • Ines Papert Sends New M9+ on Gear
  • Austrian Free Solos Cerro Torre
  • Woods and Puccio Win 2013 ABS Nationals
  • VINTAGE VIDEO: Dani Andrada on La Rambla (5.15a)
  • Weekend Whipper: Ice Groundfall
  • Chipping Controversy
  • New Book on How to Big Wall Climb
  • Grants for Everyday People
  • Robinson and Payne Dominate Hueco
  • Hojer Sends Dreamtime (V15)
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    TNB: Climbers We Lost in 2013

    30-Dec-2013
    By

    Tito Traversa, 12

    Tito Traversa was the future. Photo courtesy of Traversa collection.Nothing, it is safe to say, broke the heart of the world community like the boy who didn’t get to grow up. Tito Traversa of Italy was the future, a climbing prodigy who at 12 already moved as if he’d spent decades refining his craft. He had onsighted 5.13a, sent his fourth 5.14. The young Tito died on a warmup route, out for a day of climbing with a youth group at the mellow-natured area of Orpierre, France. As he clipped the anchor and lowered, several incorrectly set-up quickdraws failed, zippering him to a groundfall. In the wake of shared international grief and soul-searching, climbers took a worried look at the very young stars whose emergence has in recent years been so exciting.


    Wrote Peter Beal on his website Mountains and Water, “[H]is death puts us in very new territory for the sport, where parents especially have to ask what they can do to respect their children's desire to climb while being careful to acknowledge that they are not responsible independent adults.”

    Robyn Erbesfield-Raboutou, parent and youth coach, wrote briefly but also memorably: “Buddy check every time, kiddos, including your gear!”


    Layton Kor, 74

    Kor, who died April 21, was the driving force of a generation, rising to preeminence in the 1950s and 1960s. He burned through partners: from the greats of the day to anyone he might grab to go. His classics in Eldorado Canyon include FAs (using aid, as was common) of the Yellow Spur (5.9) and the Naked Edge (5.11). There were also: the Kor Ingalls (5.9) route on Castleton Tower and Finger of Fate on the Titan, in the Fisher Towers, among others in desert Utah. The Yellow Wall (V 5.8 A4) on the Diamond Face of Long’s Peak. The South Face of Washington Column. Kor’s pictorial memoir Beyond the Vertical is a classic as well.

    Layton Kor on the first ascent of Monster Tower, Canyonlands, in 1963. Courtesy Layton Kor collection.Five years ago, when he gave a talk in Boulder, the original venue of Neptune Mountaineering was changed to a university auditorium to accommodate the crowds, and that venue sold out, too, with disappointed people at the doors. That evening Kor talked humorously about being a glutton—“We were hogs,” he said—for climbing. Kor was already in declining health, and speech was viewed as his probable final retrospective. He spoke of climbs worldwide, but did not address the traumatic and defining event of John Harlin’s death in 1966 as they, Christian Bonington and Dougal Haston forged a route up the North Face of the Eiger.
     
    Among many historic tributes to Kor is this gem from Yvon Chouinard, in describing the first ascent of the North American Wall, El Capitan: “The reason it was so scary was that there was only one climber capable of rescuing us, and that was Layton Kor, and he was in Colorado.”

    Click HERE to read Layton Kor's Obituary by Rock and Ice.


    Billy Beckwith

    William John “Billy” Beckwith, 38, died in San Francisco on December 2 when a car hit him on his motorcycle. He was the brother of Christian Beckwith, founder of outerlocal.com and former editor of Alpinist. The two grew up on a farm on the coast of Maine, where Billy began climbing at age 15 on the side of the family’s 150-year-old barn.

    Billy Beckwith hosted an HGTV show while dreaming of nearby Yosemite. Photo by Jeff Johnson.“We’d culled rocks from the fields, drilled holes in them using our father’s press drill, bolted them to the barn walls and traversed above the mud,” recalls Christian. They also climbed up under the roof, top-rope protected by a single eyebolt drilled into the roof slats.

    Twenty years of adventure followed. Billy gained North American summits and El Cap routes. In his early 20s, he and Jason Lakey bicycled across Mexico from Texas to Guatemala, on the way summiting Pico de Orizaba with jerry-rigged gear and much spirit.

    Billy worked as a builder, a dancer, an actor, a model, and eventually as co-host of HGTV’s “Curb Appeal.”

    From Christian: “While this ‘day job’ got him in front of millions on TV, his heart remained in the mountains and on the walls, particularly of Yosemite.”



    Randy Udall


    Randy Udall, a lifelong mountain person and energy analyst,  fought to conserve and preserve. Photos by Weston BoylesAfter a weeklong search, Randy Udall, 61, was found in early July: off trail (yet on his intended route), pack on his back and ski poles in hand, in a meadow in the Wind Rivers of Wyoming. He was 61 and had died of natural causes. Udall spent a lifetime in the mountains, was an Outward Bound wilderness instructor, had done plenty of technical climbing but mostly liked mileage, covering huge distances on skis or foot, or scrambling.

    Son of a Congressman, brother and cousin of U.S. senators, Randy was part of a family that championed both public service and preservation of the outdoors. Randy, an energy expert and writer, promoted energy efficiency, conservation, and use of renewable resources, co-founding the progressive yet pragmatic Community Office for Resource Efficiency.

    Udall, who lived in Carbondale, Colorado, was married to Leslie Emerson, an educator and former Outward Bound instructor, daughter of the acclaimed mountaineer Dick Emerson of Tetons climbing and the first American Everest expedition of 51 years ago. Randy Udall left behind three children as well as his wife, a large extended family, and a lifetime of good work.

    Click HERE to see Rock and Ice's original report of Udall's disappearance.

    ==
    Steve Gladbach
, 52, of Pueblo, Colorado, died in a fall on June 23 while descending Thunder Pyramid, a 13,932-foot mountain in the Elk Range of Colorado. He had told his companions he was scouting a different line to return to.

    Steve Gladbach, center, with mountain friends. On the left is Britt Jones, and on the right, Josh Friesma.Gladbach was an experienced mountaineering guide and the first person to ascend all of Colorado 14,000-foot peaks during the winter and reach the summit of all of Colorado’s 13,000-foot peaks.

    He appears by far best remembered, though, as a mentor, who welcomed, coached, and encouraged dozens and dozens of people up mountains. The site 14ers.com was deluged at the time of his death.

    Wrote one person, describing himself as a newbie, of a day on the 14er Mount Elbert: “Kevin and I were the last two reached the summit. There is no way we could make it without Steve's help. I remember I told him he looks like Harrison Ford and he couldn't stop laughing.”

    Gladbach was a high-school math teacher. He left behind two daughters.


    Steve Johnson, 55, 
of Tucson, a prolific route developer on Mount Lemmon and in the Cochise Stronghold, Arizona, was found on a rope in the Santa Rita mountains. He had been scoping a new wall and route. His body was covered in hundreds of bee stings from a nest he had inadvertently disturbed. The swarm also killed his dog, waiting for him at the top of the cliff.

    Brian Benedon posted on Mountain Project: “Steve was a great person, a simple man with honest values. He was a dedicated family man.”

    Steve Johnson.Says Eric Fazio-Rhicard, a longtime Arizona climber who was part of the search and recovery effort: “He really was one of those people who would give you the shirt off his back if you needed it.”

    Johnson was an integral part of development of many routes along the Mt. Lemmon Highway and other areas. He found and led climbing efforts at an area called Revindell, putting in a dozen bolted lines. His last find was a place he called Avalon, at Mount Lemmon. It became a destination for moderate leaders, replete with a few trad lines and at least a dozen sport climbs ranging from 5.4 to 5.12.

    He leaves behind two sons, Kyle and Ryan, and a daughter, Deven.


    Alexey Bolotov, 50, 
died May 14, 2013, while trying to establish a new route on the SW Face of Everest. Bolotov was that rarity, a winner of two Piolets d’Or awards, one in 1998 for Makalu West Face and another for the Janna North Face expedition. He was also veteran of many Everest trips and success on Khan Tengri and Thalay Sagar. He was with another leading high-altitude climber, Denis Urubko, a Kazakh climber. Urubko wrote on the Russian website Mountain.ru that Bolotov when a rappel rope severed, and he fell 300 meters. Bolotov was from Ekaterinburg, Russia, and was rated the USSR mountaineering champion in 1987.
    Alexey Bolotov.

    Yang Chunfeng, 45, was one of 11 innocent 
mountaineers killed in the terrorist attack June 22 on Nanga Parbat. He had climbed Everest in 2007 and 2009, and Cho Oyu in 2008 among 11 of the world’s 14 highest peaks, the only Chinese climber to ascend so many. His other peaks were Manaslu, Dhaulagiri, Kanchenjunga, Gasherbrum II, Gasherbrum I Annapurna, Lhotse, K2 and Makalu, according to the South China Morning Post.

    Sixteen attackers stormed basecamp on Nanga Parbat at about 9:30 p.m., hauling climbers and staff from their tents, first robbing them and then destroying all electronics such as satellite and mobile phones, and finally shooting some. The Pakistani Taliban later claimed responsibility.

    The other victims, all male, were: Igor Sviergun, Badavi Kashaiev and Konyayev Dmytro (Ukraine); Anton Dobes and Peter Perka (Slovakia); Honglu Chen (China-American dual citizenship); Sona Sherpa (Nepal); Ernestas Marksaitis (Lithuania); and Ali Hussain (Pakistan).

    In an open letter to the UIAA, the president of the Alpine Club of Pakistan wrote: “I take this opportunity to express our deepest and heartfelt condolences, share grief and sincerely apologize for the tragic loss of these mountaineering comrades … [G]eneral masses and Government of Pakistan are shocked and shattered.”

    Read Is Pakistan Safe for Climbers?
    ==

    Marty Schmidt on Makalu. Photo by Chris Warner.Marty and Denali Schmidt. 
The father-son team last radioed from Camp 3 on the Abruzzi Ridge, K2, on July 26. Sometime that night or the next day both were lost in an avalanche that wiped out their camp. Marty, 53, was an experienced American guide and mountaineer who had moved to New Zealand. He had started climbing in California in 1972, soon became a guide, and progressed to climbs in Alaska (climbing Denali three times in the 1983 season) and South America. In 1988 he moved to New Zealand, guiding many peaks there and in Europe. In 2010 he attempted a new route on Makalu, rescued his ill partner, and then climbed the mountain solo even after rescuing three Ukrainian climbers on the way. His resume, in fact, contains rescues on Denali, Aconcagua and Everest – as well as one of nine people from a hotel fire in the Philippines, according to everestnews.com.

    He climbed a new route on Everest, from Tibet, in 1994, and guided the mountain only this past spring. According to http://climber.co.nz, he also summited Kangchenjunga; guided (three times) and soloed (twice) Cho Oyu; and climbed Gasherbrum I and II solo.

    Denali, 25, had recently graduated from California College of the Arts in San Francisco, and was an experienced climber as well. 
     
    As described by the American climber Jake Norton on his website: “In 2001, Marty and Denali had a climbing tour-de-force in Alaska, guiding clients to the North and South summits of Mount McKinley (Denali), then climbing the Sultana Ridge on Mt. Foraker before sending a new route on the Southwest Face of Denali in a 29-pitch, 29-hour blitz. The route was pretty burly, and aptly named Dad and Son (5.10 A2 WI5).”

    After the tragedy, a British climber, Adrian Hayes, released a statement from basecamp: "Marty and Denali ... were very well known, highly experienced and extremely strong mountaineers - the last people many would expect to be killed on a mountain."

    A eulogy posted by their friend and Broad Peak/ K2 teammate Chris Warner (Australia) on climber.co.nz states, “In my 18 years of climbing this is the most tragic of accidents I have personally experienced.”

    Warner called the trio’s acclimatization climb of Broad Peak “comfortable,” writing: “Both Marty and Denali were climbing strong on the mountain with Denali showing all the talent of his father, he had his father’s legs, lungs and heart. It was inspiring to watch a 8000m novice climb with such ease.”



    Kevin Volkening. Photo courtesy of Black Diamond.
    Kevin Volkening, 25, a 
Black Diamond engineer and employee, was killed climbing in Clark’s Fork, Wyoming, on August 30. “K-Bone,” as he was fondly known, had led up the final pitch of a moderate route when a block dropped out from beneath him. He fell about 50 feet, hitting a ledge. He was wearing a helmet and his friends reached him swiftly, but to no avail.

    Kevin graduated from Montana State University in Bozeman in 2012 with a degree in chemical and biological engineering, having also gained many days of climbing in Gallatin Canyon. A year and a half before the accident he moved to Salt Lake City to take his dream job, working for Black Diamond in quality assurance, and to be near his favorite climbing area, Indian Creek.

    The Black Diamond website posted this note: “Kevin was always smiling, always willing to help out and always…ALWAYS psyched to climb. The tag line from his personal blog reads ‘I LOVE to climb…everything,’ and it was true—from rock and ice all across the Western US and alpine routes in Alaska, to local bouldering and training at the gym—Kevin was a climber, and shared his positive energy with everyone.”

    A friend, Will Parrett, posted this comment: “Most people at BD consider themselves climbers, that is, until they meet K-Bone. Climbing was everything to Kevin, second only to his lovely Wife (perhaps 1A and 1B). Whether asleep, at work, or in his spare time, K-Bone lived climbing. He did it well, was humble, and was more stoked when a buddy sent a route than when he did.”

    He is survived by his wife, Marge Coyle Volkening; his parents, sisters and extended family.



    John Ewbank on Clockwork Orange in the Blue Mountains in 1993. Photo by Greg Child.John Ewbank pioneered hundreds, possibly over 1,000, new routes across his adopted homeland of Australia, with many still considered among the country’s great classics of today. His Janicepts (21 / 5.11a) at Mount Piddington was for years the hardest climb in the country; he was the first to climb the world-famous Totem Pole in Tasmania; he started Australia’s first climbing magazine, known as Thrutch; and he originated Australia’s enviably simple rock-climbing rating system.

    A creative force in and out of climbing, Ewbank later moved to the United States, pursuing careers in music and in fine woodcraft in New York City, with recreational climbing at the nearby Shawangunks and further north, in New Hampshire. Ewbank died at (or within weeks of turning) age 65 in New York following a series of surgeries, the last an abdominal surgery from which he was healing poorly.

    During his time in New York, he released two CD’s (still available), named “Songs From the Bright Side (of a dark cell)” and “Stark Raving Songs.”

    See Ewbank's Obituary by Rock and Ice


    Jarad Spackman, 40, was a snowboard mountaineer and a lifelong climber with dozens of ascents in the Tetons. He died March 1 when he was avalanched about 1,000 feet from Apocalypse Couloir near the mouth of Death Canyon, Grand Teton National Park. His companion in the ski mountaineering foray, during which an adjacent steep chute as their objective, was Christian Beckwith. Beckwith reached and found him, but resuscitation efforts were futile.

    Jarad Spackman graduated summa cum laude in international finance from the University of Colorado, and returned to his native Jackson to work in real estate with his father and brother.  Photo by Christian Beckwith. The energetic and positive Spackman, a realtor as well as all-around mountain athlete, left a wife and family.

    An obituary in the Jackson Hole News paraphrased Jarad’s brother Brandon in writing: “He was a world-class athlete, a connected community member, a loving husband, a special friend, a talented businessman, a much-loved son and an incredible brother.” Jarad and Brandon climbed in Alaska, the Himalaya, Antarctica and Iceland, while Jarad and his wife, Stephanie, rock climbed across the United States, to Cuba and Thailand.

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