• Climbers We Lost in 2015
  • Lost in Mozambique – First Ascent on Mt. Namuli
  • A Step Too Far - The Tragic First Ascent of Kuksar
  • The K2 Summit Controversy
  • The Locomotive: Roy McMurtrey – 87 and Still Climbing
  • Alpine Warriors - History of Alpinists in Yugoslavia
  • Bouldering Bub - Isaac Caldiero
  • The End of Everest?
  • Murderball: Two Longtime Friends Face Rockfall and Sudden Injury
  • Dean Potter: Life at the Edge of Realization
  • Devil's Delight: Devils Head is Colorado's Treasure
  • Living With A Very Serious Climber
  • What I've Learned: Sonnie Trotter
  • The Tower: A Chronicle of Climbing and Controversy on Cerro Torre
  • What I've Learned: Mark Udall
  • John Long's Favorite 5.10
  • The Rock Rambo: A "Tough Mudder" For Climbers
  • The Pirate: Adventures with Ammon McNeely
  • Dean Potter: What I've Learned
  • Call of the Wild: America's Hardest Crag - Wolf Point - Is Just a Vision
  • Berni's Tips for the Climbing Road Trip
  • What I've Learned: Heinz Mariacher
  • The Hardest Bouldering in America ... and Maybe the World
  • The Sasha DiGiulian Profile
  • What I've Learned: Chris Sharma
  • Notes from A Generation X Climber
  • Durango Unchained
  • Tipping Point on Everest
  • Tales of Sickness: Pro Climbing is Neither
  • Climbing Deal Breakers
  • Alex Honnold's First Ascent in Memory of Todd Skinner
  • The Seeker: Said Belhaj
  • The Art of Losing
  • Tommy Caldwell: What I've Learned
  • Dave Graham: Looking Backward
  • Reinhold Messner: What I've Learned
  • To the Death: Inside Catalunya and Ridiculously Hard Sport Climbing
  • The Definitive Charlie Porter Profile & Interview
  • Sonnie Trotter's Favorite 5.10: Exasperator (5.10c)
  • Unbroken: The Alex Johnson Profile
  • What I've Learned: John Bachar's Last Interview
  • Listening for the Echo: The Klem Loskot Profile
  • Bishop Bound: The Boulders and Beyond
  • The Eiger the Hard Way: Britain's Boldest Take on the North Face
  • Royal Robbins on the First Ascent of the North American Wall
  • Adam Ondra's Hardest Routes in Flatanger
  • Perfect Play: What It Took to Climb La Dura Dura (5.15c)--The World's Hardest Route
  • Sasha DiGiulian Explains Why We Don't Climb Hard Enough
  • TNB: The Only Blasphemy
  • Everest Deserves Respect: Why It's Hard, From Someone Who's Been There
  • TNB: Chasing the Devil's Snort
  • Life on Hold: The Ian Powell Story
  • Return to Yosemite
  • Rope Jumping with Dan Osman
  • Origin of Species: Fontainebleau
  • El Cap's Hardest: Wings of Steel
  • Cragging in the Bay Area
  • TNB: What's the Problem?
  • To the Rescue
  • The Midwest Mindset
  • Point Break: Fight Over Fixed Draws
  • Island of Opportunity: Exploring the Potential of Puerto Rico
  • Storming Castles: New Routing in the High Sierras
  • Soul Rising: In Pursuit of the South's Most Excellent 5.9s
  • Pure Magic: Spellbound By the Boulders of Switzerland
  • Arctic Gold
  • Where Worlds Collide
  • TNB: The Jungle
  • Tahoe Moderates
  • Comic Relief
  • Shoot Like Simon Carter
  • Kurt Albert: Free Wheel
  • Place of Happiness
  • High Exposure: A Fresh Perspective on the Gunks
  • California's Big House
  • TNB: The Hurt Locker
  • TNB: Eating People and the Real Seventh Summit
  • Wild Wild West Virginia
  • Wild Chihuahua
  • Who's Next?
  • Rock Climbing Nutrition: Power Your Climbing With Whole Foods
  • What's Supp?
  • Vintage Vantage
  • Tuff Love
  • True Believers
  • Tower of the Damned, Climbing the Crystal Tower
  • Top Digs
  • Todd Skinner: The Renegade
  • The Upstart
  • Tom Patey: The Tiger of Yesterday
  • The Stone Garden
  • The Secret of Nanda Devi
  • The Hidden
  • The Hard Way
  • The First Attempt on Latok I North Ridge by Michael Kennedy
  • The Eyes Have It
  • The Bond
  • The Black is Beautiful
  • Patxi Usobiaga: The Bionic Man
  • The Better Half
  • The Beast of the East
  • Talk is Cheap
  • Souvenirs
  • Southern Idaho Secrets
  • Simon Yates' New Route on Mount Vancouver
  • Routes Less Traveled
  • Rock Climbing in India
  • Ray's Roof Solo
  • Perfect Chaos
  • Open Water Treading in Paradise
  • New Mexico
  • Never Mind The Dinosaurs
  • Mountain of Clark
  • Michael Reardon
  • Melt Down
  • Max Turgeon and Louis-Philippe Ménard: Alpinists and Ice Climbers
  • Making The Grade
  • Local Color
  • Limestone Harmony
  • Landscaping
  • Kurt Albert: The Climber Who Invented Redpointing
  • King Air
  • Josh Wharton: The Alpinist
  • John Rosholt: Climber and Gambler Disappears in Las Vegas
  • John Long: The Real Deal
  • John Long: Slaying Giants
  • John Long: High Times
  • The Stonemasters Climb at Pirates Cove
  • John Bachar's Last Interview
  • John Bachar Remembers Michael Reardon
  • John Bachar by Henry Barber
  • John Bachar Remembered by Duane Raleigh
  • John Bachar by Doug Robinson
  • John Bachar and the Bachar-Yerian First Ascent
  • Jimmie Dunn
  • Is Mixed Climbing Legitimite?
  • In the Land of Myths
  • Ice Climbing in Norway with WIll Gadd
  • Green Party
  • Getting High and Feeling Good
  • Generational Shift
  • Game On 2
  • G.I. YO!
  • Freaky Folklore
  • For Climbing
  • Empire Blocks
  • Divine Wind
  • Devil's Advocate
  • Deep Water Soloing in Mallorca
  • Dave MacLeod versus Dave Birkett
  • Conquistdors of the Useful
  • Colin Kirkus: Climbing's Greatest Unknown
  • Climbing Jobs, Benefits and Salaries
  • Climbing Jobs
  • Clever Levers
  • Classic Acts
  • TNB: Chris Sharma and The Art of Jeep Maintenance
  • Charlie Fowler American Alpinist
  • Bouldering in Hampi India
  • Bastard Child
  • Backwoods Bouldering
  • Avoiding Arthritis
  • Attack of the Daks
  • Armenia Rock Climbing
  • Arco Climbing Comp, the Face of 2010
  • Alex and Thomas Huber Climb in Queen Maud Land
  • Ain't it Grand
  • Age of Reason
  • A Short Walk With Whillans
  • John Long: A Man for All Seasons
  • America's Best Climbing Area: Red River Gorge
  • Galen Rowell: The Vertical World
  • The Prophet
  • The Guy Whose Nuts Revolutionized Climbing: R.P.
  • Brotherhood on Orizaba
  • TNB: American Dirtbag
  • A Desperate Move
  • The Last Moonset
  • Murder At Cho Oyu
  • Climbing Dark Star, a Sierra Classic
  • Rock Climbing and Bouldering in Mongolia
  • Defying the Red Rock Bolt Ban
  • Crossroads
  • John Long: The Royal Scam
  • John Long: The Only Rule That Counts
  • John Long: On the Road
  • John Long: Nothing but Rubble
  • John Long: Mountains of Trouble
  • John Long: Legends of the Mind
  • John Long: Legend of Lord Gym
  • John Long: Guilty Pleasures
  • John Long: Channel Surfing
  • John Long: A Confederacy of Dunces
  • Dreamweaver Mixed Climb: Rocky Mountain National Park
  • Tom Frost and Yosemite's Lost Climbing Photos
  • Refugee
  • Creatures of Feature
  • The Dark Art
  • Altered State
  • The Montana Girls
  • Moving Over Stone
  • An Encounter with Fred
  • Life Without Limits
  • Self Service
  • The Crossing
  • Disco Dance Party on the Blob
  • Rescue 5.11
  • VSC Reprise
  • Crashing the Heights
  • Cold Justice Paul Cormier
  • Whiteout
  • The Bucket List
  • Finding Nirvana
  • Rock Climbing Training: How to Prevent Bonking
  • Wabi Sabi
  • The Plastic Prince
  • John Bachar and the Cosmic Surfboard
  • Confessions of an Almost Serious Climber
  • Three F's for Jany
  • What's at the root of the name of the route?
  • For the Birds
  • The Recreational Life
  • The Cruxiest Move
  • Video Spotlight
    First Repeat of Jeff Lowe's Metanoia on the Eiger North Face
    First Repeat of Jeff Lowe's Metanoia on the Eiger North Face

    Climbing Deal Breakers


    Deal Breakers are everywhere! Illustration by Meg Bisharat.Life is full of Deal Breakers, those habits or fashions that trump any redeeming qualities an individual might possess. No matter how good things might have been or how good you imagined they could be, when you hit a Deal Breaker the relationship is over in a flash, never to be the same again. Cute, handsome, sexy, a stud in the sack, a smokin’ ass, nipples that could cut glass, whatever … they are all eradicated by a Deal Breaker—e.g., owns a bird; has an inspirational quote in their e-mail signature; has a “sweet” Lego collection; saves bread to feed to squirrels; has a Twitter account; rollerblades or kayaks; un-ironically uses “holla,” “word” or “dawg;” has a modified exhaust pipe (found on everything from jacked-up F350 trucks to lowered, rice-rocket Honda Preludes ... both of which are also Deal Breakers); Facebooks with his or her parents; owns any album or song by a former American Idol contestant, etc.

    It’s important to note that Deal Breakers are not obvious during an initial encounter—they are subcutaneous characteristics or habits that you have to stumble upon after the initial fly-by assessment. For instance, you would never hang out with a guy who has a neatly groomed goatee or ask out a woman smoking a clove cigarette. Those are blatant, all-systems-stop, non-starters and your involvement with that person would never go beyond a quick judgment from afar. Now, if a person was initially deemed non-offensive and you engaged him or her in a second- or third-level interaction, and then the next weekend he started growing a neatly groomed goatee or later that night she lit up a clove cig, well, then those would definitely be Deal Breakers. ¿Comprende?

    The twisted beauty of Deal Breakers is that everyone has them, and yet most people are unaware of what theirs are. Sure, they may be worried about obvious stuff like their dandruff or weight, but they are oblivious to the fact that their hair-sculpting gels or skinny jeans are major Deal Breakers that, left unaddressed, will leave them socially ostracized—no matter how dandruff free or shapely they are.

    The twisted beauty of Deal Breakers is that everyone has them, and yet most people are unaware of what theirs are. In over 20-plus years of climbing around the world, I’ve witnessed dozens and dozens of Climbing Deal Breakers (CDBs), ranging from subtle to glaring, and have diligently compiled a list of these transgressions. Without question, the largest collection of CDBs can be found in one of two locations: climbing gyms and Smith Rock, Oregon. Both are stacked with the misguided gumbies, uninformed hacks and clueless college-aged newbs that are most susceptible to shocking CDBs. My friend and Smith Rock super-local Ian Yurdin, has, over the years, helped me compile and refine the CDB list. Ian recently sent me a flurry of text messages detailing seven or eight new CDBs. When I thanked him later for thinking of them, he said he didn’t, that he was just texting me what he saw in the 50-meter expanse between Magic Light and 5 Gallon Buckets at Smith Rock.

    With climbing currently expanding at unprecedented levels and CDBs at the crag and gym becoming more and more brazen (wearing a Bluetooth earbud while climbing; running on a treadmill at the climbing gym—while wearing climbing shoes), the time for action is now. The CDB list has to become official and be published here in order to save the climbing world from itself.

    Please do not think of the CDB list as a mean-spirited rant that singles out or belittles specific people or peoples. The point of this list is to help people, to enlighten and empower them, thereby freeing them from the embarrassment of unknowingly showcasing one CDB transgression, a handful of them or, in the case of an unfortunate few, many, many (if you have more than 10 CDBs, may God have mercy on your soul).

    Now, some of you may read this list and be stunned that you have been running a CDB for years. Fear not, all is not lost—you can recover, you can rebound. Hell, I taught myself how to climb while growing up in Oregon and for the first few years of my climbing career I wore basketball shorts and a bandana do-rag; I had an anklet, and one day I even clipped climbing shoes to the outside of my pack—at school. But through careful and persistent peer counseling from knowledgeable, experienced climbers and deep personal reflection I was able to shed my CDBs and become the legit, ultra-steez’d baller that I am today.

    I have chosen to detail the rationale behind the inclusion of certain items on the CDB list, both in an effort to highlight all that encompasses the CDB, as well as to explain exactly why the CDB is so egregious. Read the list, learn from it and clean up your act. Don’t delude yourself any further with thoughts that this shit is OK. It’s not. It’s bad. Real bad.

    The CDBs:

    Topropes with Extraneous Gear on their harness.
    You don’t need an ATC, belay gloves, nut tool and/or random single locker for toproping. What the hell are you going to use any of that stuff for? Double-negative CDB if you’re in the climbing gym.

    Daisy Chains.

    If this Deal Breaker list was organized in order of importance—which it is not—daisy chains would be at the top. Why are people using daisy chains while rock climbing? Who started this? Who is teaching this as a method for clipping into anchors? Why do so many people from Oregon and Washington use daisy chains? Why? Why? Why? Daisy chains are for aid climbing. Period. They are not for clipping into anchors while rock climbing. Not only is it dangerous, it’s completely unnecessary. If you get to an anchor, be it a sport climb or a multi-pitch trad route, and think, “Man, it would be sweet to have a daisy chain right now,” you need to go get some professional instruction. And for God’s sake, stop, stop, STOP threading daisy chains through your crotch like a G-string—that is the ultimate Climbing Deal Breaker.

    Has biceps tattoos (barbed wire, tribal glyphs, interwoven flowers, dancing bears, etc.) pierced nipples (female exception), hemp anklets or massive wooden ear-lobe plugs.

    Has Dave Graham’s 8a.nu scorecard as their web browser’s home page.

    Plays any of the following at camp or in the parking lot:
    Harmonica. Didgeridoo. Triangle. Rainstick. Harp. Guitar. Sitar. Kazoo-flute-plastic-thing.Accordion.

    Has a climbing grade of any kind in their e-mail address
    (e.g., jimmyV15@gmail.com or 514darcy@yahoo.com).

    Drinks mate at the crag from one of those gourd/straw things.

    Wears sunglasses pushed up on the head while climbing.

    Has a climbing-related vanity license plate (e.g., TRADCLMR, ONBLAY or RK N ICE).

    Wears Crocs, Chacos, Dansko clogs or those five-toed rubber shoe things. Birkenstock clogs are on the cusp of inclusion. It all comes down to whether you have the style to pull them off. I do; you probably do not.

    Wears manpris. Why are manpris on the CDB list? Put on a pair and stand in front of a mirror. That metrosexual poseur you see? Yeah, that’s you.

    Dudes cuffing their jeans up to manpri-length. See above.

    Hollers non-native language encouragements such as “Allez,” “Venga” or “Jiyo” to partners.

    Sports the no-shirt/beanie combo (female exception)
    This is when things can get really, really bad, and someone will run this op along with manpris, pierced nipples and screaming on a toprope. No joke. I’ve seen it.

    Has Canadian flags sewn onto their pack.
    Why do Canadians think anyone gives a shit that they are from Canada? My friend Kolin is the worst Canadian-flag transgressor I have ever come across. His chalk bag, his coffee mug, his camp chair are all covered in Canadian flags, yet where does he live and work? The good ol’ U.S. of A. I keep calling the INS and hopefully someday soon I’ll be able to get him and his goddamn Canadian flag-covered shit deported.

    Has (or ever had) a “Climbers for Kerry” sticker on their helmet.

    Has (or ever had) a “Canadian Girls Kick Ass” sticker on their helmet.

    Considers self a “major contributor” to an online climbing forum/message board.

    Uses eco-colored chalk and/or a chalk ball. And, no, making either of those items yourself does not make it OK. Basic loose chalk—use it.

    Has a pet named Denali, Lhotse, Makalu or Sharma.

    Kneebars on a warm-up. If you really need to kneebar to do a move on a warm-up, you aren’t warming up.

    Talks loudly on a cell phone at the crag. To borrow a couple of lines from the Beastie Boys: “I didn’t ask to be part of your day, so please stop shouting in your phone, OK?”

    Updates Facebook or 8a.nu scorecard on smartphone while at the crag.

    Screams on moves while dogging a route, toproping or in the gym (or all three).

    Stick clips. Ranks right up there with daisy chains. How, when and why did stick clipping become so damn common? Unless there is some terrifying consequence if you blow the first clip, you do not need a stick clip. A stick clip is not, and never has been, a mandatory piece of climbing equipment, so don’t make one, don’t bring one to the crag and don’t swap route-specific stick-clipping beta. Just sac up and lead it.

    Goes into the bathroom at the climbing gym barefoot.

    Wears a visor. Double-negative CDB if wearing it backward. Triple-negative CDB if wearing it backward and upside-down.

    Calls successfully walking a slackline a “send.”

    Uses the term “tuque.”

    Brings a barking dog to the crag. No one wants to hear that shit while climbing. Leave it at home.

    Brings a crying kid to the crag. Same as above.

    Has a chalk bag that looks like a Starbucks coffee or Crown Royal bag.

    Has a quickdraw hanging from the rearview mirror.

    Has a framed climbing poster.

    Uses a blue Ikea bag for a rope bag.

    Uses a haulbag for a cragging pack.

    Has anything clipped to the outside of their pack. Shoes, helmet, water bottle, etc. do NOT belong dangling/clanging on the outside of a pack. Put it all inside or buy a bigger pack.

    Extends draws with an additional draw or sling and then double clips them.

    Climbs while wearing headphones.

    Walks from crag to crag fully racked up.

    Toprope belays with a Jumar as the top hand on the rope.

    Harnesses up in the parking lot.

    Boulders at the climbing gym with a harness on.

    Wears any sort of mainstream sportswear while climbing (e.g., soccer shorts, football jersey or basketball tank top).

    Overuses the word “crush.”

    Has cats on a leash at the crag. The best of Ian’s CDBs texted directly from Smith Rock.

    Fist bumps.

    Belays in gym or at crag with climbing shoes on.

    Clips chalk bag to harness with a carabiner. Double negative if this is a locking biner.

    Gives beta on a route she hasn’t done. Double negative CDB if she hasn’t even been on the route (e.g., “Have you done that route?”… “No, but I belayed my buddy on it and he definitely used that left crimp.”).

    Writes a Letter to the Editor to complain about the CDB list.

    Reader's Commentary:

    Don't want to use Facebook, but still want to comment? We have you covered:

    Add Your Comments to this article:
    Erik Shepard commented on 13-Apr-2014 06:30 PM1 out of 5 stars
    This is a pretty degrading piece. I hate to see a reputable climbing media organization publish negative, nonconstructive articles like this. I have always known the climbing community to be inclusive and friendly, with a sort of camaraderie not found in other sports. This falls very far from that atmosphere. It saddens me that we have this kind of derisive media published. Thanks R&I.
    Stacey Rice commented on 14-Apr-2014 01:08 PM3 out of 5 stars
    The title makes this seem like a constructive list of climbing techniques and gear knowledge, but after reading the first sentence it is far from that. This is a completely judgmental article, and saying this: "Please do not think of the CDB list as a mean-spirited rant that singles out or belittles specific people or peoples. The point of this list is to help people, to enlighten and empower them..." doesn't mean it isn't mean-spirited. That's just a bullshit cover. I've also known the climbing community to be nothing but encouraging, inclusive and friendly. This article is very negatively out of pace with all of the other articles on Rock & Ice. What happened?
    Nathan Hixson commented on 14-Apr-2014 01:09 PM2 out of 5 stars
    I'm going to have to agree with Erik. It didn't sound to me like even 1% of fellow climbers I've ever met. I get that this is probably meant to be more of a humor piece and I actually found a couple points funny. And sure, there are things that annoy me at the crag and gym, but if it's not a safety issue (and a few of them could be considered that), keep your judgmental attitudes to yourself or find a new hobby. Climbing won't miss people like you.
    Nathan Hixson commented on 14-Apr-2014 01:10 PM2 out of 5 stars
    I'm going to have to agree with Erik. It didn't sound to me like even 1% of fellow climbers I've ever met. I get that this is probably meant to be more of a humor piece and I actually found a couple points funny. And sure, there are things that annoy me at the crag and gym, but if it's not a safety issue (and a few of them could be considered that), keep your judgmental attitudes to yourself or find a new hobby. Climbing won't miss people like you.
    Werner Goetz commented on 14-Apr-2014 02:04 PM3 out of 5 stars
    And the worst offence of all: Writes for a climbing rag. Especially when articles only posted online.

    Trust me, you don't ever want to be roped up to one of these d-bags. They'll spend all day warming up by flailing up the low-grade "classics", all the while trying to figure out how to turn a mediocre experience into a story about their latest epic. These guys are easy to spot by their Pavlovian salivation response if a pro every rolls up.
    josh commented on 14-Apr-2014 07:01 PM5 out of 5 stars
    Thank you this was so funny best article I've read in rock and ice in a while keep them coming hahahaha
    Aaron Ferguson commented on 15-Apr-2014 12:25 PM1 out of 5 stars
    This article made me feel bad. You have not accomplished your goal of helping anyone, You should spend some time looking deeply inside yourself and ask yourself why you wrote this article? B/c I suspect your motive was to make yourself feel superior to others. You have claimed that the true intent of this list was to help a person change, well, allow me to help you by inviting you to change yourself.
    Joseph Michael commented on 15-Apr-2014 01:04 PM1 out of 5 stars
    He forgot to add, "gets drunk, lights fire on top of rock formation in national park, gets busted by rangers and banned from park."

    Come on guys, Rock and Ice is better than to post this elitist nonsense. This is high school level journalism, juvenile, and yes, mean spirited. But the author obviously knew that since he threw in that little quip in the beginning, "Please do not think of the CDB list as a mean-spirited rant that singles out or belittles specific people or peoples."

    Raise your game, stop tearing others down for a couple of cheap laughs.
    G Halsne commented on 20-Apr-2014 11:47 PM5 out of 5 stars
    OMG... so many people upon their high horse! This article has me in stitches! Then the next day i climbers with a guy that broke like 6 BDB's .. .Its all true and hilarious! Get over yourselves people!

    Yall need to go back to your REI climbing 101 classes and buy some more books or something... sniveling weenies cant take a joke! ;-)
    T Olsen commented on 14-Aug-2016 02:23 PM2 out of 5 stars
    "The greatest obstacles to inner peace [and good climbing] are disturbing emotions such as anger, attachment, fear and suspicion, while love and compassion and a sense of universal responsibility are the sources of peace and happiness."