Table of Contents
  • Are Homemade Draws Reliable?
  • Avoiding Arthritis
  • Avoiding Injury
  • Basic Aid Technique
  • Climb Safe: Belaying Part 1
  • Climb Safe: Belaying Part 2
  • How to Belay for Climbing
  • How to Choose Climbing Equipment
  • How to Climb on Lead
  • How to Climb on Toprope
  • How to Rappel
  • How to Rig an Anchor for a Novice
  • How To Rig Trad Anchors/Belays
  • How to Toprope
  • How to Train for Rock climbing
  • Respecting the Climbing Environment
  • Rock Climbing Accident: Bolt Pulls Out in the New River Gorge
  • Rock Climbing Injury: Shoulder: SLAP Lesion and Cortisone
  • Rock Climbing Injury: Shoulder: Thoracic Outlet Syndrome
  • Rock Climbing Nutrition: Anti-inflammatory Foods vs NSAIDS
  • Rock Climbing Training: Avoiding the Gear-Placement Pump
  • Rock Climbing Training: Beating the Lactic Acid Pump
  • Rock Climbing Training: Best Ratio of Resting to Bouldering
  • Rock Climbing Training: Boost Power With Eccentric Training
  • Rock Climbing Training: Can Old Guys Get Stronger?
  • Rock Climbing Training: Do Forearm Trainers Work?
  • Rock Climbing Training: Does Creatine Work?
  • Rock Climbing Training: Does Running or Biking Improve Your Climbing?
  • Rock Climbing Training: Dynamic vs. Static Stretching
  • Rock Climbing Training: Euro Training Secrets
  • Rock Climbing Training: Gain Confidence by Learning Not to Fear Falling
  • Rock Climbing Training: Get Better When You Are Scared and Pumped
  • Rock Climbing Training: Getting Strong After a Layoff
  • Rock Climbing Training: How Often Should You Rest?
  • Rock Climbing Training: How to Beat Fear
  • Rock Climbing Training: How to Develop Sloper Strength
  • Rock Climbing Training: How to Mentally Train
  • Rock Climbing Training: How to Power Train for Climbing
  • Rock Climbing Training: How to Prevent Bonking
  • Rock Climbing Training: How To Recover On Route
  • Rock Climbing Training: How to Stay Psyched
  • Rock Climbing Training: How to Unlock a Crux
  • Rock Climbing Training: HowTo Use Microcycles
  • Rock Climbing Training: Improving Slab Technique
  • Rock Climbing Training: Is Protein Important?
  • Rock Climbing Training: Maximizing a Small Home Wall
  • Rock Climbing Training: Maximum Training in Minimum Time
  • Rock Climbing Training: Never Get Pumped Again
  • Rock Climbing Training: Overcome Anxiety and Send!
  • Rock Climbing Training: Periodized Training For the Year-round Approach
  • Rock Climbing Training: Pushing Past Your Training Plateau
  • Rock Climbing Training: Recovery Supplement Truths
  • Rock Climbing Training: Regaining Confidence After a Fall
  • Rock Climbing Training: Resting the Perfect Amount
  • Rock Climbing Training: Should You Add Weight or Use Smaller Holds on a Hangboard
  • Rock Climbing Training: Should You Lose Weight or Get Stronger?
  • Rock Climbing Training: The Importance of Finger Strength
  • Rock Climbing Training: The Secrets of Warming Up
  • Rock Climbing Training: The Unnatural Way to Climb
  • Rock Climbing Training: Tips for Better Onsighting
  • Rock Climbing Training: Training During Pregnancy
  • Rock Climbing Training: Training While Hungry
  • Rock Climbing Training: Training With an Injury
  • Rock Climbing Training: Ultimate Strength
  • Rock Climbing Training: Using a Weight Belt For Training
  • Rock Climbing Training: Warming Up Without Warm-Ups
  • The First Sport
  • The Intuitive Approach to Training
  • THE PERFECT 5-MINUTE WARM-UP FOR CLIMBERS
  • Training for Climbing: Injured? Train Your Core!
  • Understanding Climbing Ratings and Grades
  • Winter Workouts
  • Witness the Mental Fitness
  • Are Homemade Draws Reliable?
  • Cam Care and Maintenance Guide
  • Climb Safe: Belaying Part 1
  • Climb Safe: Belaying Part 2
  • Climbing Anchor and Belay Stations
  • Climbing Photography How To
  • Climbing Protection
  • Free Climbing Tips: Why Get Stronger When You Can Get Better?
  • How to Belay for Climbing
  • How to Choose Climbing Equipment
  • How to Climb on Lead
  • How to Climb on Toprope
  • How to Rappel
  • How to Rig an Anchor for a Novice
  • How To Rig Trad Anchors/Belays
  • How to Toprope
  • How to Train for Rock climbing
  • Respecting the Climbing Environment
  • Rock Climbing Injury: Shoulder: SLAP Lesion and Cortisone
  • Rock Climbing Injury: Shoulder: Thoracic Outlet Syndrome
  • Rock Climbing Training: Beating the Lactic Acid Pump
  • Rock Climbing Training: Best Ratio of Resting to Bouldering
  • Rock Climbing Training: Boost Power With Eccentric Training
  • Rock Climbing Training: Can Old Guys Get Stronger?
  • Rock Climbing Training: Do Forearm Trainers Work?
  • Rock Climbing Training: Does Creatine Work?
  • Rock Climbing Training: Does Running or Biking Improve Your Climbing?
  • Rock Climbing Training: Dynamic vs. Static Stretching
  • Rock Climbing Training: Euro Training Secrets
  • Rock Climbing Training: Gain Confidence by Learning Not to Fear Falling
  • Rock Climbing Training: Get Better When You Are Scared and Pumped
  • Rock Climbing Training: Getting Strong After a Layoff
  • Rock Climbing Training: How Often Should You Rest?
  • Rock Climbing Training: How to Beat Fear
  • Rock Climbing Training: How to Develop Sloper Strength
  • Rock Climbing Training: How to Mentally Train
  • Rock Climbing Training: How to Power Train for Climbing
  • Rock Climbing Training: How to Prevent Bonking
  • Rock Climbing Training: How To Recover On Route
  • Rock Climbing Training: How to Stay Psyched
  • Rock Climbing Training: How to Unlock a Crux
  • Rock Climbing Training: HowTo Use Microcycles
  • Rock Climbing Training: Improving Slab Technique
  • Rock Climbing Training: Is Protein Important?
  • Rock Climbing Training: Maximizing a Small Home Wall
  • Rock Climbing Training: Maximum Training in Minimum Time
  • Rock Climbing Training: Overcome Anxiety and Send!
  • Rock Climbing Training: Periodized Training For the Year-round Approach
  • Rock Climbing Training: Pushing Past Your Training Plateau
  • Rock Climbing Training: Recovery Supplement Truths
  • Rock Climbing Training: Regaining Confidence After a Fall
  • Rock Climbing Training: Resting the Perfect Amount
  • Rock Climbing Training: Should You Add Weight or Use Smaller Holds on a Hangboard
  • Rock Climbing Training: Should You Lose Weight or Get Stronger?
  • Rock Climbing Training: The Importance of Finger Strength
  • Rock Climbing Training: The Secrets of Warming Up
  • Rock Climbing Training: The Unnatural Way to Climb
  • Rock Climbing Training: Tips for Better Onsighting
  • Rock Climbing Training: Training During Pregnancy
  • Rock Climbing Training: Training While Hungry
  • Rock Climbing Training: Training With an Injury
  • Rock Climbing Training: Ultimate Strength
  • Rock Climbing Training: Using a Weight Belt For Training
  • Rock Climbing Training: Warming Up Without Warm-Ups
  • The Climbing Dictionary
  • The First Sport
  • THE PERFECT 5-MINUTE WARM-UP FOR CLIMBERS
  • Training for Climbing: Injured? Train Your Core!
  • Understanding Climbing Ratings and Grades
  • Winter Workouts
  • Witness the Mental Fitness
  • Avoiding Arthritis
  • Avoiding Injury
  • Climb Safe: Spotting for Bouldering
  • Climbing Photography How To
  • Free Climbing Tips: Why Get Stronger When You Can Get Better?
  • Knee: ACL Reconstruction
  • Respecting the Climbing Environment
  • Rest ... or Else
  • Rock Climbing Injury: Ankle: Loud Pop Ankle Roll
  • Rock Climbing Injury: Leg: Fracture
  • Rock Climbing Injury: Shoulder: SLAP Lesion and Cortisone
  • Rock Climbing Injury: Shoulder: Thoracic Outlet Syndrome
  • Rock Climbing Nutrition: Anti-inflammatory Foods vs NSAIDS
  • Rock Climbing Nutrition: Eating Your Way to Better Climbing
  • Rock Climbing Training: Beating the Lactic Acid Pump
  • Rock Climbing Training: Best Ratio of Resting to Bouldering
  • Rock Climbing Training: Boost Power With Eccentric Training
  • Rock Climbing Training: Can Old Guys Get Stronger?
  • Rock Climbing Training: Do Forearm Trainers Work?
  • Rock Climbing Training: Does Creatine Work?
  • Rock Climbing Training: Does Running or Biking Improve Your Climbing?
  • Rock Climbing Training: Dynamic vs. Static Stretching
  • Rock Climbing Training: Euro Training Secrets
  • Rock Climbing Training: Get Better When You Are Scared and Pumped
  • Rock Climbing Training: Getting Strong After a Layoff
  • Rock Climbing Training: How Often Should You Rest?
  • Rock Climbing Training: How to Beat Fear
  • Rock Climbing Training: How to Develop Sloper Strength
  • Rock Climbing Training: How to Mentally Train
  • Rock Climbing Training: How to Power Train for Climbing
  • Rock Climbing Training: How to Prevent Bonking
  • Rock Climbing Training: How To Recover On Route
  • Rock Climbing Training: How to Stay Psyched
  • Rock Climbing Training: How to Unlock a Crux
  • Rock Climbing Training: HowTo Use Microcycles
  • Rock Climbing Training: Improving Slab Technique
  • Rock Climbing Training: Is Protein Important?
  • Rock Climbing Training: Maximizing a Small Home Wall
  • Rock Climbing Training: Maximum Training in Minimum Time
  • Rock Climbing Training: Overcome Anxiety and Send!
  • Rock Climbing Training: Periodized Training For the Year-round Approach
  • Rock Climbing Training: Pushing Past Your Training Plateau
  • Rock Climbing Training: Recovery Supplement Truths
  • Rock Climbing Training: Regaining Confidence After a Fall
  • Rock Climbing Training: Resting the Perfect Amount
  • Rock Climbing Training: Should You Add Weight or Use Smaller Holds on a Hangboard
  • Rock Climbing Training: Should You Lose Weight or Get Stronger?
  • Rock Climbing Training: The Importance of Finger Strength
  • Rock Climbing Training: The Secrets of Warming Up
  • Rock Climbing Training: The Unnatural Way to Climb
  • Rock Climbing Training: Training During Pregnancy
  • Rock Climbing Training: Training While Hungry
  • Rock Climbing Training: Training With an Injury
  • Rock Climbing Training: Ultimate Strength
  • Rock Climbing Training: Using a Weight Belt For Training
  • Rock Climbing Training: Warming Up Without Warm-Ups
  • The Climbing Dictionary
  • The First Sport
  • The Intuitive Approach to Training
  • THE PERFECT 5-MINUTE WARM-UP FOR CLIMBERS
  • Training for Climbing: Injured? Train Your Core!
  • Understanding Climbing Ratings and Grades
  • Winter Workouts
  • Witness the Mental Fitness
  • Are Homemade Draws Reliable?
  • Avoiding Arthritis
  • Avoiding Injury
  • Climb Safe: Belaying Part 1
  • Climb Safe: Belaying Part 2
  • Climbing Anchor and Belay Stations
  • Climbing Photography How To
  • Free Climbing Tips: Why Get Stronger When You Can Get Better?
  • How to Belay for Climbing
  • How to Choose Climbing Equipment
  • How to Climb on Lead
  • How to Climb on Toprope
  • How to Rappel
  • How to Rig an Anchor for a Novice
  • How to Toprope
  • How to Train for Rock climbing
  • Respecting the Climbing Environment
  • Rest ... or Else
  • Rock Climbing Accident: Bolt Pulls Out in the New River Gorge
  • Rock Climbing Injury: Shoulder: SLAP Lesion and Cortisone
  • Rock Climbing Injury: Shoulder: Thoracic Outlet Syndrome
  • Rock Climbing Nutrition: Anti-inflammatory Foods vs NSAIDS
  • Rock Climbing Nutrition: Eating Your Way to Better Climbing
  • Rock Climbing Training: Avoiding the Gear-Placement Pump
  • Rock Climbing Training: Beating the Lactic Acid Pump
  • Rock Climbing Training: Best Ratio of Resting to Bouldering
  • Rock Climbing Training: Boost Power With Eccentric Training
  • Rock Climbing Training: Can Old Guys Get Stronger?
  • Rock Climbing Training: Do Forearm Trainers Work?
  • Rock Climbing Training: Does Creatine Work?
  • Rock Climbing Training: Does Running or Biking Improve Your Climbing?
  • Rock Climbing Training: Dynamic vs. Static Stretching
  • Rock Climbing Training: Euro Training Secrets
  • Rock Climbing Training: Gain Confidence by Learning Not to Fear Falling
  • Rock Climbing Training: Get Better When You Are Scared and Pumped
  • Rock Climbing Training: Getting Strong After a Layoff
  • Rock Climbing Training: How Often Should You Rest?
  • Rock Climbing Training: How to Beat Fear
  • Rock Climbing Training: How to Develop Sloper Strength
  • Rock Climbing Training: How to Mentally Train
  • Rock Climbing Training: How to Power Train for Climbing
  • Rock Climbing Training: How to Prevent Bonking
  • Rock Climbing Training: How To Recover On Route
  • Rock Climbing Training: How to Stay Psyched
  • Rock Climbing Training: How to Unlock a Crux
  • Rock Climbing Training: HowTo Use Microcycles
  • Rock Climbing Training: Improving Slab Technique
  • Rock Climbing Training: Is Protein Important?
  • Rock Climbing Training: Maximizing a Small Home Wall
  • Rock Climbing Training: Maximum Training in Minimum Time
  • Rock Climbing Training: Never Get Pumped Again
  • Rock Climbing Training: Overcome Anxiety and Send!
  • Rock Climbing Training: Periodized Training For the Year-round Approach
  • Rock Climbing Training: Pushing Past Your Training Plateau
  • Rock Climbing Training: Recovery Supplement Truths
  • Rock Climbing Training: Regaining Confidence After a Fall
  • Rock Climbing Training: Resting the Perfect Amount
  • Rock Climbing Training: Should You Add Weight or Use Smaller Holds on a Hangboard
  • Rock Climbing Training: Should You Lose Weight or Get Stronger?
  • Rock Climbing Training: The Importance of Finger Strength
  • Rock Climbing Training: The Secrets of Warming Up
  • Rock Climbing Training: The Unnatural Way to Climb
  • Rock Climbing Training: Tips for Better Onsighting
  • Rock Climbing Training: Training During Pregnancy
  • Rock Climbing Training: Training While Hungry
  • Rock Climbing Training: Training With an Injury
  • Rock Climbing Training: Ultimate Strength
  • Rock Climbing Training: Using a Weight Belt For Training
  • Rock Climbing Training: Warming Up Without Warm-Ups
  • The Climbing Dictionary
  • The First Sport
  • The Intuitive Approach to Training
  • THE PERFECT 5-MINUTE WARM-UP FOR CLIMBERS
  • Training for Climbing: Injured? Train Your Core!
  • Understanding Climbing Ratings and Grades
  • Winter Workouts
  • Witness the Mental Fitness
  •  
    Video Spotlight
    Ascent. Bringing the Best Climbing Stories to Life.
    Ascent. Bringing the Best Climbing Stories to Life.

    Rock Climbing Training: Getting Strong After a Layoff

    09-Apr-2010
    By

    I slacked all winter and didn't train a lick, and still want to dominate on the rock this spring/summer. How can I whip myself into shape in short notice?

                                                                                                                                                                                             —Duane Raleigh, Redstone, CO


    Wait! Stop! There is no such thing as a quick comeback in climbing unless you are a super-talented young hotshot, and even then you are risking injury. If your performance curve looks a little like a roller coaster, it's time to consider a few home truths. We all know how frustrating it can be to take time out and lose strength and technique, but the worst thing you can do is jump back in the deep end. Don't hit the campus board. Chances are that if you attempt to play catch-up too fast then you will get hurt and slide further down.

    Any sound training program should be based on this progression: start at a low level, build back up to your current level and then reach past it. You should also start with volume-based training such as laps on easy routes, and only move on to high-intensity training such as bouldering or campusing once you have built a solid base. These are the basic principles of a peaking cycle for any sport. A typical peaking cycle is usually between four and eight months, and the longer you take to peak, the higher the level you will reach and the longer you will be able to sustain it. But if you don't have much time, you can construct a mini-peak. This will still need to be a minimum of six weeks:

    Phase 1: Endurance base. Two weeks of climbing one day-on, one day-off. During climbing days do up-and-downs or double laps on easy routes.  Do plenty of stretching and CV conditioning on rest days.

    Phase 2: Increase intensity. Two weeks of day-on, day-off with bouldering and routes on alternating days. Bouldering: After a thorough warm-up, do the usual format of short, steep, powerful problems with plenty of rest to prevent premature burnout. Endurance: Do harder single routes (one grade less than your onsight max, 6 to 8 reps with 5 minutes rest between reps). Keep the rest-day conditioning sessions going.

    Phase 3: Prepare for peak. Two weeks of two days on, one day off. Do bouldering and bar exercises (such as pull-ups and leg raises) on Day One, and climb routes on Day Two. Stronger climbers may substitute the bouldering session with campusing. Reduce or cut out CV training on rest days but keep stretching.

    Phase 4: Recovery and peak. One week of light maintenance training (one light boulder session and one light route session) to taper for the climbing season or trip.

    Remember, though, that the best advice is not to let your performance slide in the first place. Even if you are busy with work, try to do a couple of hangboard sessions a week, just to maintain. Climbers don't respond well to fits and spurts. Try to climb a minimum of twice a week, every week, and you won't need to ask this question again!

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