• VIDEO: Coxsey Climbs New Base Line (V14)
  • VIDEO: Nalle Hukkataival on Bügeleisen Sit Start (V15+)
  • Hans Florine, 50, Sets Solo Speed Record for Triple Direct on El Cap
  • Q&A: Shauna Coxsey Third Woman to Climb V14
  • Sam Davis Climbs Jade (V14)
  • Q&A: Alex Megos Sends Biographie/Realization (5.15a) in Three Tries
  • Q&A: Mirko Caballero Claims His 2nd V14
  • Respected Climber Falls 50 Feet and Dies at Cathedral Ledge
  • Coxsey and Caballero Climb V14
  • Ashima Shiraishi, 13, Becomes Second Female to Climb V14
  • Mélissa Le Nevé Sends Baa Baa Black Sheep (5.14b/c)
  • Alex Puccio Sends Nuthin’ But Sunshine (V13)
  • Q&A: Joe Kinder Climbs Punks in the Gym (5.14a) in a Downpour
  • Q&A: Sam Elias and Mike Kerzhner Fire 3rd Ascent of El Cap's PreMuir (5.13+)
  • Austin Siadak Solos Evolution Traverse in a Day
  • Roland Hemetzberger Frees Multi-Pitch 5.14a in Zillertal, Austria
  • Q&A: Mirko Caballero flashes his first V11 in South Africa
  • Kyle Vassilopoulos Establishes 130-Foot 5.14 at Wolf Point
  • Hukkataival Climbs Alpine Sport Testpiece Sibergeier (5.14a)
  • Chattanooga's Take on Buildering
  • Alex Megos Frees 20-Pitch 5.14b in Switzerland
  • Trotter, Caldwell, Wharton Put Up Six-Pitch Route in Sicily
  • Jes Meiris Beats Female Solo Speed Record of the Nose by 4 Days
  • Eitan Green, 28, Remembered
  • Kilian Jornet Smashes Speed Record on Denali
  • 7-Up: Honnold and Allfrey Climb 7 El Cap Routes in 7 Days
  • How To Be a Xena of Rock Climbing
  • Vail World Cup Comp Report: Noguchi repeats from last weekend, Sharafutdinov from last time at Vail
  • Emily Harrington Runs It Out to Send Tom et Je Ris (5.14a)
  • David Mason Sends 20 Problems (V11-V13) in Vastervik, Sweden
  • Mark Anderson Establishes the Hardest Route at Independence Pass
  • Six Presumed Dead After 3,000-Foot Fall On Mount Rainier
  • Q&A: Jonathan Siegrist Sends Biographie/Realization (5.15a)
  • Nick Duttle Sends 10 New River Gorge 5.14s in One Month
  • Ryan Jennings and Kevin Cooper Climb Major New Route in Alaska
  • Dean Potter Responds to Criticism About Flying with His Dog
  • New Yosemite Classic: First Free Ascent of The Unemployment Line (5.12-)
  • Alex Luger Frees "Psycho" 5.14 Trad Route
  • Mélissa Le Nevé Makes First Female Ascent of Wallstreet (5.14b)
  • Jimmy Webb Sends Jour de Chasse (V15) in 15 minutes
  • Ondra Climbs Two 5.14ds and One 5.15a - Plus Amazing Send Footage
  • Interview: Megos Sends Another 5.14d in Two Hours
  • Q&A: Ethan Pringle Gives Some Love to Jumbo Love (5.15b)
  • Nalle Hukkataival Sends Emotional Landscapes (V15)
  • Ondra Onsights Il Domani (5.14d)
  • Interview: Hukkataival on Bügeleisen Sit: Hardest in the World?
  • Special Report: Enough Misinformation, The Truth of Everest
  • Adam Ondra Climbs Two 5.14d’s While Training for the World Cup
  • Wharton Frees Hallucinogen in A Day
  • A Tribute To Our Brother, Ankaji Sherpa
  • 14-Year-Old Kai Lightner Climbs Lucifer (5.14c)
  • Jimmy Webb Climbs Multiple V15s in Magic Wood, Switzerland
  • Fransico “Novato” Marín Is the Oldest Person in the World to Climb 5.14a
  • Rad Video: Mirko Caballero Climbing Meadowlark Lemon
  • Save Getu Climbing From Destruction
  • Jan Hojer Sends The Story of Two Worlds (V15) and Big Kat (V14)
  • Jonathan Siegrist Establishes 5.14 Testpiece at Quality Arizona Crag
  • Alpine Ascent of the Season: Lindic and Krajnc Free Rolling Stones
  • Shauna Coxsey Climbs Her Second V13 in Albarracín, Spain
  • Video: Rok Klancnik Makes Third Ascent of Bügeleisen (V14/15)
  • Hazel Findlay Becomes the First British Woman to Climb 5.14b
  • Sasha DiGiulian Climbs Red Bull Stadium
  • David Roetzel Solos 15 Pitches of Hard Ice in One Day
  • Ueli Steck's Solo, Slawinsky and Welsted's K6 Ascent Win Piolets d'Or
  • Is Bishop World Class? Niccolò Ceria Says Don’t Believe The Hype
  • Dani Arnold Free Solos 1,100-Foot WI 6 in 27 Minutes!
  • Jimmy Webb Sends The Story of Two Worlds (V15) in Switzerland
  • Mirko Caballero Becomes Youngest Person to Climb V14
  • Katy Whittaker Climbs China Crisis (5.14a)
  • Sean "Stanley" Leary Killed BASE Jumping
  • Red Flag! Help protect access to the Red River Gorge’s most popular crag.
  • American Climbers Crush in Switzerland
  • Stefan Glowacz and Chris Sharma Attempt Massive Oman Cave Route
  • Mark Anderson Makes Third Ascent of Mission Impossible (5.14c/d)
  • Crazy Video: Free-Solo Aerial Dancing
  • Isabelle Faus Climbs the World’s First V12 Trice
  • Barbara Zangerl Sends the Spicy Trad Pitch Prinzip Hoffnung (5.14a)
  • Five Ten Adds Mirko Caballero to their Elite Team
  • VIDEO: Woods and Webb Crush The Nest (V15)
  • The Secret Climb of Chris Sharma and Stefan Glowacz
  • Cool Vid: Dave Graham's Process and Send of Foundation's Edge (V15)
  • Dan Goodwin Sets New World Record for Longest Lead Climb
  • Avalanche Kills Two Climbers in the Caucasus Mountains
  • Nepalese Government To Penalize Everest Climbers Who Leave Trash
  • Final Update: UIAA Ice Climbing World Cup and Olympics
  • Sean O’Neill Becomes First Paraplegic to Climb Bridal Veil Falls
  • Climbing Borders: Non-Profit Uses Climbing to Help At-Risk Youth
  • Piolets d’Or 2014 Nominations Announced
  • Nepal Changes Fees to Climb Everest: But Are They Lower or Higher?
  • Puccio and Woods Each Win Eighth ABS National Titles
  • Charlie Porter Dies
  • Nalle Hukkataival Nabs Third Ascent of Gioia (V16)
  • Ian McNaught-Davis: 1929-2014
  • Will Gadd and Team Make First Ascent of Overhead Hazard (M13+)
  • Woods and Wurm Win 21st Annual Hueco Rock Rodeo
  • Paul Robinson Establishes New V14 in Hueco Tanks
  • Sharma to Chouinard in a Weekend
  • Honnold and Caldwell Complete First Ascent of Fitz Traverse
  • Chad Kellogg Killed in Patagonia
  • Help Protect Eagle Bluff in Clifton, Maine
  • Updated: Magnus Midtbø is STILL Working on Neanderthal (5.15b)
  • Film Review: The Last Great Climb
  • New Multi-Pitch M11 Mixed-Route Goes Up in Ouray, Colorado
  • Jay Renneberg Remembered
  • Update: UIAA Ice Climbing World Cup in Switzerland and France
  • Adam Ondra Nabs Second Ascent of First Round, First Minute (5.15b)
  • Record Conditions for Redstone Winterfest
  • Q&A: Daniel Woods Gets "Obsessed" to Send Lucid Dreaming (V15)
  • Mount Washington Valley Ice Fest Celebrates 21 Years
  • 70-Year-Old Legends Tick Bird Brain Boulevard (IV Wi 5)
  • Help Open Climbing in Hawaii
  • Daniel Woods Sends Lucid Dreaming (V15)
  • Update: Climber Found Unresponsive at Rock Gym and Declared Dead
  • Cardwell and Puccio Win Di'Namik Comp
  • VIDEO: David Lama and Dani Arnold on First Ascent of Moose's Tooth
  • Update: UIAA Ice Climbing World Cup
  • Greg Mortenson Grateful for Allegations
  • Q&A: Honnold Takes A "Step Forward" by Soloing El Sendero Luminoso
  • Honnold Free-Solos the 1,750-Foot El Sendero Luminoso (5.12d)
  • Climbing Friend Accused of Killing Geoff Farrar at Carderock
  • John Long Writing Symposium Announced
  • Best In Gear For 2014
  • French Stars Storm Ouray: Mercier and Maureau Win 2014 Mixed Comp
  • VIDEO: Bernd Zangerl's Hardest Problem Yet--V16?
  • Robert Jasper Sends Cutting Edge Mixed Climb: The Black Death
  • Two Killed on Aconcagua
  • VIDEO: Sasha DiGiulian and Edu Marin Send Bellavista (5.14b)
  • 2014 Spitzer Award Winners
  • Roskelley First American Awarded Piolet d’Or Career Award
  • Raw Send Footage of Adam Ondra on New 5.14d First Ascent
  • John Ewbank, 1948-Dec. 2, 2013
  • The Hardest Pitch in Yosemite Goes Down!
  • Mallorca Access Problems for Climbers
  • Paige Claassen Sends India's Hardest Route--Ganesh (5.14)
  • Will Gadd Edged Out at Bozeman UIAA Mixed Comp
  • David Lama Solos New Winter Route in the Alps
  • Webb and Woods Both Send/Downgrade Meadowlark Lemon (V15/14)
  • Jan Hojer Claims V15 First Ascent in Fontainebleau
  • Tommy Caldwell Is Back on the Dawn Wall!
  • Exclusive Dawn Wall Videos: Episodes 3 & 4
  • Interview with Ondra on New 5.15c
  • Ondra Climbs Third 5.15c
  • Watch the Exclusive Dawn Wall Project: Episodes 1 & 2
  • Interview with Ty Landman on the Smiling Buttress FA
  • New Psychological 5.13d Testpiece in the Alps
  • Jimmy Webb Wins La Sportiva Legends Only 2013 Comp
  • Andy Turner Gets Second Ascent Of Powerdab (M13)
  • Muriel Sarkany Becomes Fourth Woman to Redpoint 5.14d
  • Liberty Cap Gets Second FFA of the Year: Scarface (5.12)
  • Q&A: Daniel Woods Defies Gravity
  • How-To's for Gym-Outdoor Transition, Barry Blanchard Memoir and More!
  • Defying Gravity (V15) FA for Daniel Woods
  • Boswell and Bullock Go Big in Canada
  • First Ascent of Unclimbed Peak in the Everest Region, Nepal
  • Building Ethiopia's Potential: Rock Climbing Near Addis Ababa
  • Ryan Vachon Sends M12 Testpiece on Gear
  • Cheyne Lempe Sets New Solo Record on El Cap
  • Gear Guide Contest Winners
  • Jimmy Webb Sends Bridge of Ashes (V15/14) in a Session
  • Updated: Three New Ice Routes on Mt. Evans, Colorado
  • Kevin Jorgeson Is Still Gunning for the Dawn Wall
  • Interview: Daniel Woods on His Hardest Boulder Problem Yet
  • Tommy Caldwell Hurt on the Dawn Wall
  • Jimmy Webb Repeats The Penrose Step (V14)
  • Get power the German way: New training book, new guidebooks and MORE
  • Q&A: Paul Robinson Sends Jaws II (5.15a)
  • Interview: Hazel Findlay Climbs Freerider (5.12d) on El Cap
  • New Ice Route on the Diamond: Window Pain (WI 6+)
  • Ondra Sends Three 5.14d's in One Day
  • Send in your Accident Reports and Win $1000 in Gear
  • Update: Jimmy Webb Flashes Two V12s, One V13 at Leavenworth
  • Interview and Video: Pete Whittaker on the First Ascent of Baron Greenback (5.13d R)
  • Rumney Local Makes Fourth Ascent of Jaws II (5.15a)
  • Traversi Takes Down the Leavenworth Project to Establish The Penrose Step (V14)
  • Graham Makes FA of Foundation's Edge (V15) in Switzerland
  • Woman Paraplegic Climbs El Cap Despite Yosemite's Closure
  • In the Cloud (V12): Hardest Boulder Problem Established by a Woman?
  • Sisu Masters 2013: Finland's Unique Bouldering Competition
  • Megos Makes Easy Work of Kalymnos Climbing Festival
  • Update: New Info on Ueli Steck's 28-Hour Solo of Annapurna's South Face
  • Ueli Steck Summits Annapurna's South Face ... Solo!
  • Sharma to Try New Clark Mountain Project, Possible 5.15+
  • Nick Duttle Sends 5.13 at 14,000 Feet
  • Yosemite Climbers Keep Climbing Despite Shutdown
  • Ashima Shiraishi Makes First Female Ascent of 24 Karats (5.14c) in the Red
  • UPDATED: Rave Reviews and Sleepless Sending at 24 Hours of Horseshoe Hell
  • Chris Sharma to Try Dawn Wall Project on El Cap
  • Q&A: Paige Claassen on Sending One of the Word's Hardest Slabs--Art Attack (5.14b)
  • Government Shutdown Forces National Park Closures
  • New Female Speed Record on El Cap's Nose by Smith-Gobat and Sauter
  • Fatal Gym Accident
  • Memoirs of Big Walls and Peaks; Tahoe bouldering, Sonora Pass, Missouri Granite
  • Two More 5.15a's for Ondra in Norway
  • New Route on Kapura Peak, Pakistan
  • Yesterday's Gear Guide Giveaway Winner Announced!
  • Bellavista for MacLeod and Cassidy
  • Amazing Helicopter Mountain Rescue Caught on Video!
  • Ueli Steck Heads Back to Himalaya
  • Wide Boy Randall Ticks Cobra Crack (5.14) on Last Day
  • Wide Boy Pete Whittaker Sends the Cobra Crack (5.14)
  • New 5.14 Alpine Route on Mt. Hooker, Wyoming
  • Arizona Climbing Area at Risk of Destruction
  • More V15's for Graham and Webb
  • Wharton and Walsh Send the North Pillar of Twins Tower
  • Yesterday's Gear Guide Giveaway Winner Announced Here!
  • Polish Team Establishes New Route on Great Trango Tower
  • Kilian Jornet and Emelie Forsberg Rescued from Frendo Spur
  • Daniel Woods Spins The Wheel of Wolvo (V15)
  • Kausch Breaks Record for 6000m Peaks Climbed in Andes
  • Barbara Zangerl Sends Des Kaisers neue Kleider (5.14a) and Completes the Alpine Trilogy
  • Heritage Featuring Carlo Traversi in Switzerland
  • Fischhuber and Stöhr Win European Bouldering Championships
  • Five Ten announces winners of 2013 CORE Awards
  • Trotter Sends New 5.14 Big Wall
  • Black Diamond Engineer Killed in Climbing Fall
  • 12-Year-Old Mirko Caballero Climbs His First 5.14b
  • New Guides to Bouldering in the Winds, Shuteye Ridge, Yosemite and More
  • Interview: Being Alex Megos
  • Ashima Sends V13 in Colorado
  • Alex Megos Establishes 5.15a Link-Up in Australia’s Grampians
  • Manslaughter Charges Filed in Death of Tito Traversa
  • Federation President Killed on G1
  • IFSC 2013 World Youth Championship Results
  • Mario Richard Killed in BASE Jump
  • Alex Megos Establishes Australia's First 5.14d
  • 12-Year-Olds Mirko Caballero and Ashima Shiraishi Send V13 in Magic Wood
  • New 5.12d Free Route on The Eiger's North Face
  • Sasha DiGiulian Makes First Female Ascent of Bellavista (5.14b) in the Dolomites
  • DiGiulian Continues to Roll, Onsights Italy’s Pole Position (5.13c)
  • Weekend Whipper: Psicobloc Choss
  • Mount Everest: New Regulations and "Government Mechanism" to Police Mountain
  • New 5.13b Free Route in Yosemite Valley by Mason Earle
  • Adam Ondra Makes First Ascent of Iron Curtain (5.15b)
  • DiGiulian and Webb Win Psicobloc: Photos and Video
  • Updated: Tommy Caldwell Repeats The Path (5.14 R)
  • Father and Son Killed on K2
  • Rocklands Climbing In Jeopardy
  • New Route Opened in Alaska's Rugged Revelation Mountains
  • Alex Honnold to Climb a Building on Live T.V. but Which One?
  • Weekend Whipper: How to Spot a Bad Spotter
  • New Guidebooks! Beta for Fitz Roy, Rifle and More ...
  • Alex Honnold and Cedar Wright Traverse California's 14ers By Bike and Free Solo
  • 24,278-Foot Mountain in Karakoram Finally Sees First Ascent
  • Gérôme Pouvreau Sends Silbergeier (5.14a) in the Rätikon
  • Kilian Jornet Breaks Speed Record on Mont Blanc
  • DiGiulian Cranks Another 5.14 First Ascent
  • Siegrist Repeats Moonshine (5.14d) in Wyoming
  • Ullrich and Muskett Climb Indian Face (E9 6c/5.13ax)
  • Interview: Adam Ondra About Onsighting La Cabane au Canada (5.14d)
  • Weekend Whipper: Don't Get Your Foot Caught!
  • Remembering Layton Kor
  • Brain Puzzle Winner, Wins!
  • Sasha DiGiulian Cranks the First Ascent of a 5.14c in South Africa
  • Alex Megos Sends The Wheel of Life (V15)
  • Adam Ondra Onsights La Cabane Au Canada (5.14d)
  • Paige Claassen Opens 5.14, Starts Charity Tour
  • 12-Year-Old Tito Traversa Dies From Climbing Fall
  • Austrians Make Second Ascent of Ozturk and Wilkinson's Tooth Traverse in Alaska
  • Randy Udall, Missing in Wind Rivers, Has Deep Mountain Roots
  • Five Ten Accepting Applicants for 2013 CORE AWARD
  • Enormocast Features Rock and Ice Publisher Duane Raleigh
  • Jimmy Webb Crushing Rocklands, South Africa
  • Shauna Coxsey Cranks First Female Ascent of Nuthin' But Sunshine (V13)
  • Video: James Kassay on the First Ascent of The Wheel of Life Direct (V16)
  • Ramonet Sends Sharma's Tierra Negra (5.14d/.15a) Second Try
  • Colorado Man Dies on Grand Teton
  • Nine Climbers Murdered on Nanga Parbat
  • 12-Year-Old Mirko Caballero Crushes In Europe
  • Nalle Hukkataival Sends Long-Standing Swiss Project
  • Two Events Commemorate Layton Kor
  • The Future of Bouldering?
  • Dave Graham Cranks the Second Ascent of The Full Circle (V14)
  • Daring High Altitude Rescue on Everest Sets Records
  • Alex Puccio Third, Stöhr and Sharafutdinov Win Vail World Cup
  • Yosemite's Liberty Cap Goes Free
  • Sharma and Crew Bring First Deep Water Soloing Competition to America!
  • Climber Dies on El Cap
  • New Climbing Area Purchased in Kentucky
  • Climbing Doesn't Make Olympics
  • Possible 5.15a by Steve McClure
  • Whittaker Says Missed Sex and Salad Most
  • 5.14d First Ascent for Adam Ondra
  • Nico Favresse Sends His Hardest Crack Climb!
  • Five Climbers Missing on Kangchenjunga
  • Tragic Climbing Accident at Tahquitz Rock, California
  • Trotter, Cardwell, Traversi and Schulte Join Photo Camp
  • Kenton Cool and Dorje Gylgen Sherpa Summit Nuptse, Everest and Lhotse
  • Updated: Death on El Cap
  • Woods and Robinson Send The Ice Knife (V15)
  • Daniel Woods Establishes New V14
  • Death on Everest
  • National Park Service Authorizes Fixed Anchors in Wilderness
  • Alexander Megos Sends Frankenjura's Hardest
  • Visiting Climbers Ignored Bolt Ban, Prompting Armenian Basalt Closure
  • Climbing Banned at Idaho's Castle Rocks
  • 5.14c Onsight for Adam Ondra
  • Climbing Banned on Armenian Basalt Columns
  • James Pearson Skips Bolts and Places Gear on 5.14a
  • 5.15a First Ascent for Alex Megos
  • Ueli Steck Attacked on Everest
  • Help Layton Kor's Family
  • Lama and Arnold Blitz New Route in Alaska
  • Q&A: Samuel Johnson Solos Mount Hayes
  • Barbara Raudner Climbs Mind Control (5.14c)
  • Female Onsight of Los Humildes pa Casa (5.14a)
  • Sachi Amma Throws Down in Spain
  • Interview: Wilder Sends 5.13d Trad at the New River Gorge
  • 13-Year-Old Drew Ruana Climbs To Bolt or Not to Be (5.14a)
  • Said Belhaj Cranks 5.14d Second Try
  • Climber Dies in Clear Creek Canyon, Colorado
  • Hard New Mixed Route in Alaska's Kichatna Range
  • Nalle Hukkataival Repeats Bügeleisen (V14)
  • First Ski Descent of Grand Teton North Face
  • Solid Gold: Dan Mirsky Opens New 5.14c
  • Joshua Tree Climbing Area Closed Due to Vandalism
  • Sherpa Killed Fixing Lines on Everest
  • VIDEO#2: Honnold Sending A Gift From Wyoming
  • Daniel Woods and Charlotte Durif Win SCS Nationals
  • Everyone Wins at Piolets d'Or
  • VIDEO: Honnold Sending A Gift from Wyoming (5.13) in Yosemite
  • Ramon Julian Sends Three New 5.14's in Spain
  • Hazel Findlay Sends 5.13c Trad Testpiece
  • VIDEO: Robert Jasper's Trad M12 Scarefest
  • Emmett and Gresham Do First One-Day Ascent of Three Welsh Classics
  • Carlo Traversi Sends New V15 in Switzerland
  • Megos Strikes Again with 5.15a Second Try
  • VIDEO: Guntram Jörg Sends V14 in the Canary Islands
  • Q&A: Traversi vs The Story of Two Worlds (V15)
  • Sasha DiGiulian Sends Two 5.14bs in One Day
  • Traversi Repeats The Story of Two Worlds (V15)
  • World's First 5.14d Onsight!
  • Chris Sharma Sends La Dura Dura (5.15c)
  • George Lowe, Member of Everest '53 Team, Dead at 89
  • Piolets d'Or Committee Hails Controversial Cerro Torre Climbs
  • The Struggle For Portugal's Hardest Sport Climb
  • Paul Robinson Cranks New V15
  • Lama, Ortner, and Auer Claim Bold Winter Ascent
  • Bouldering and Speed Climbing Join 2020 Olympic Bid
  • VIDEO: Magnus Midtbø Sends Ciudad de Dios (5.14d/.15a) in Santa Linya, Spain.
  • 5.13 First Free Ascents in Chile
  • Weekend Whipper: 60-Foot Fall!
  • VIDEO: Mina Leslie-Wujastyk Does FFA of Jason's Roof (V10/11)
  • Caldwell and Honnold Rip it Up in Zion
  • Kennedy/Dempster 3rd of Ogre Nominated for Piolet d'Or
  • Three North Faces, Solo, in Winter. Check.
  • Ethical Debate: Dave MacLeod's Routes Disputed
  • Daniel Woods Repeats Bridge of Ashes (V15)
  • 10-Year-Old Sends God's Own Stone (5.14a) in the Red
  • Missing Climbers Declared Dead on Broad Peak
  • Massive Ice Climbing Fall!
  • Dave Graham Sends New V15
  • VIDEO: Emily Harrington on Ice and Mixed Climbing
  • Weekend Whipper: Climber Falls Big on Cobra Crack
  • SICK VIDEO: Ondra Sends Change 5.15c
  • VIDEO: Interview With Adam Ondra
  • VIDEO: Alex Honnold in Chile
  • Two Polish Climbers Feared Dead on Broad Peak
  • Rope Jumping with Dan Osman
  • VIDEO: Mina Leslie-Wujastyk Does FFA of Careless Torque (V11)
  • Q&A: Schulte Sends V15 in Font
  • Solo Climber Dies in Fall
  • Weekend Whipper: Steve McClure on Rhapsody (E11)
  • VIDEO: Chris Sharma, Witness the Fitness (V15)
  • Jasper's Trad M12 Scarefest
  • Schulte Cranking in Font
  • Toru Nakajima Sends The Big Island (V15)
  • Spannuth Repeats La Rêve (5.14d)
  • New M12/13 in Montana
  • Ines Papert Sends New M9+ on Gear
  • Austrian Free Solos Cerro Torre
  • Woods and Puccio Win 2013 ABS Nationals
  • VINTAGE VIDEO: Dani Andrada on La Rambla (5.15a)
  • Weekend Whipper: Ice Groundfall
  • Chipping Controversy
  • New Book on How to Big Wall Climb
  • Grants for Everyday People
  • Robinson and Payne Dominate Hueco
  • Hojer Sends Dreamtime (V15)
  • Sick Video: Nalle Hukkataival Bouldering in Penoles, Mexico.
  • Schulte Cranks in Switzerland
  • Weekend Whipper: Dave MacLeod Whips Big
  • Three Killed in Cairngorms
  • COOL VIDEO: Sasha DiGiulian on "Era Vella" 5.14d
  • Woods Sends Hydrangea (V15): Updated with Photos
  • Q&A: Traversi on Meadowlark Lemon (V15)
  • Honnold Rips in Mexico: Updated with New Send
  • Colin Haley Frees Classic Bolted Line in Patagonia
  • Q&A: Chris Sharma Stokes the Fire
  • The Hueco Rock Rodeo Celebrates 20 Years
  • First Female M14
  • Ondra's Spanish Rampage Continues + Raw Send Video
  • Elias Wins Vail Mixed Comp
  • Weekend Whipper: Scary Ice Fall
  • Kurt Diemberger Wins Piolet d'Or
  • Winter Speed Ascent of the Diamond + Rare Repeat of Eldo Horrorshow
  • VIDEO: For the Love of the Game
  • Ondra Sends La Dura Dura 5.15c
  • Sharma Sends 5.15b Project! Updated with Video
  • First Winter Ascent of Europe's Biggest Wall
  • New Secretary of Interior Could Be Good News For Climbers
  • Dave Macleod is Back After Accident
  • Last Great Problem of the Antarctica, Solved
  • VIDEO: Core's Possible V17
  • Dave Graham Wins Spot Bouldering Comp
  • World's First Trad M10?
  • Two Climbers Killed on Les Droites in Chamonix
  • Weekend Whipper: Katie's Scary Tombstone Fall
  • Dani Arnold Ice Marathon
  • VIDEO: Malcolm Smith On Training for Hubble
  • VIDEO: David Graham Crushes in Australia
  • John Long Accident Recovery Update
  • The Naked Edge in 44 Minutes!
  • Sharma and Ondra Gunning for World's Hardest Route
  • 18 Murdered Near Potrero
  • Q&A: Bernd Zangerl Discovers New Boulders
  • Stanley Headwall Gets Sick New Route
  • The Mount Washington Valley Ice Fest Celebrates 20 Years
  • Hojer Sends The Big Island
  • Ice Climber Killed
  • Despite Warnings, Three Injured in Mount Washington Avalanche
  • Is Patagonia Now a Playground?
  • Video + Interview: Schulte's New V13 at Indy Pass
  • American Women Fire Fitz Roy
  • Dark Horse Repeats Hueco's Hardest
  • Cool Video: Making Tommy Caldwell
  • New Mixed Route in Italian Dolomites
  • Chasing Winter Debuts: Q&A with Ashima + Video
  • Four Dead in Scottish Highlands
  • Weekend Whipper: Man vs Tree
  • Big New Free Route in the Black Canyon
  • Widow's Tears Rare Repeat
  • New Slawinski Route Tribute to Guy Lacelle
  • Fontainebleau's Hardest Repeated
  • Fresh Ascent of Sharma 5.15a
  • David Lama Back to Patagonia
  • Happy Birthday to Fred Beckey
  • Gadd's New M11
  • Papert and Duverney Return, Win Ouray
  • Spindrift: Lama and Ortner Open Alpine Testpiece
  • Blow by Blow: Loskot's V15 Spraydown
  • Photo Gallery: Fred Beckey's Big Comeback
  • Ethical Debate: Traversi versus Blowtorch
  • V15s for Cardwell and Graham
  • Andres Marin Sends Ouray's Hardest Mixed Lines in a Day
  • VIDEO: Rad WI11 in Helmcken Falls
  • Daniel Woods Resurrects Witness the Fitness (V15)
  • Weekend Whipper: Josh Wharton's Screamer in the Park
  • Southeast's First V14? Woods Unlocks Aggravated Assault
  • Everest in 3.8 Billion Pixels
  • Two Dead on Aconcagua
  • Video: Toru Nakajima Storms Colorado
  • Cool Video: Jan Hojer Climbs Off the Wagon (V14)
  • Bill Forrest Dies
  • Thomas Bubendorfer: Eiger Legend Back in the Game
  • Q&A: V15 Maestro Nacho Sanchez Unleashed
  • Jimmy Webb Flashes V13
  • Sarah Hueniken Climbs M11
  • Maurice Herzog Dies
  • Is Chalk Toxic?
  • 11-Year-Old Repeats Sharma Testpiece
  • 10 Best Photos of 2012
  • Saturday Bonus: Stalking Dean Potter
  • Most Beautiful Unclimbed Line in Patagonia Climbed
  • John Long Accident Details and Update
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    Secundo Route - Sugar Loaf
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    David Lama Sounds Off on Cerro Torre, Pakistan and More

    13-Dec-2012
    By

    Earlier this year David Lama, 22, freed the infamous Compressor Route on Patagonia's Cerro Torre. Almost a year later, Lama is showing no signs of slowing down. A recent trip to Trango Tower in Pakistan saw the driven climber testing his reserves at altitude, and he is keen to return to Pakistan next year to take his high standard of free climbing to the Himalayan arena.

    Opinionated, strong-willed, determined and successful, we spoke at length with the young Austrian.

     

    INTERVIEW with the UKClimbing Editorial Team: David Lama

    Where did you start climbing? Was it with your parents? And in what style?

    My parents were not climbers at all, before I started with it, but they were outdoor and mountain enthusiasts. I started climbing when I was around five years old. Peter Habeler, the partner of Reinhold Messner on the first ascent of Mt. Everest without supplementary oxygen, was a friend of my parents and invited me to one of his outdoor camps for kids in the Zillertal back in 1995. We were doing some glacier hikes, went on some easy mountains and one day also went climbing on some rock slabs, close to the hut we were staying at. Peter noticed my feelings for the rock and the fun I was having and therefore encouraged my parents to let me climb with Reini Scherer, who at that time led a climbing group for kids.


    Your father is from Nepal. What influence does this Sherpa heritage play on your climbing life?

    This is a question I get asked a lot. Both of my parents (my mom is from Austria) are mountain enthusiasts and therefore my early childhood days were full of hiking and adventure, both in Nepal and in Austria, and this influenced my personality for sure. People have said that I'll be able to deal with high altitudes better due to my father being a Sherpa but I'm not sure about that. Personally I have the impression that I benefit much more from the calm and even-tempered approach to life that certainly comes from my father's side.

    ==

    You started climbing at a young age and then soon got involved with competition climbing. Do you feel that this gave you a good introduction to the sport?

    I started on rock and then got into competitions, not the other way around. I think that mainly starting at a young age gives you an advantage, just as in every other sport. For me, the combination of rock climbing and the eagerness to compete were for sure a good motivation to train hard and to get better.


    Has climbing changed for you since those early days? Are you looking for something different in climbing now? Or is it the same?

    It hasn't changed in the respect that climbing is and will always be the center of my life. But my perception of life has evolved together with my view on climbing and vice versa.


    And after a successful competition career you stopped competition climbing after the 2010 season. Do you think you will return to this at some stage in the future?

    It wasn't with a heavy heart that I left the competitions. Already back in 2008 I felt that my perceptions and visions for my climbing future didn't fit within the confines of a gym or a set of rules. When leaving the comps I actually had the intention of coming back in some years, but to be honest for the moment I don't see a single reason why I should, especially with the format that still exists. I still climb in the gym to train, but I'm not sure if I'll ever fit into the world of rules and regulations again that the World Cup currently represents for me.


    It seems that you have some strong ideas about the World Cup and the format of the competitions. How do you think it could be improved? What do you think of the overall competition organization - and any thoughts on climbing and the fact that it might possibly be heading to the Olympic Games?

    I couldn't care less about the Olympics; I don't give much about this platform. Generally speaking, I believe that competition climbing will further evolve more and more, and become a sport all its own, much further away from the original climbing than now. This doesn't necessarily have to be a bad thing, but it's simply not my thing. For me the World Cup currently doesn't breathe "climbing DNA" and that's what I'm missing.

    ==

    And do you think it is possible to combine competing at the top level with a career as a top Alpine climber?

    Competitions have gotten a lot more specific over the past couple of years and the level necessary to win increased quite a bit. When I entered the comps I used to be able to go rock climbing a lot while I was still able to win World Cups. It depends what expectations you have on yourself, but with the increasing density of strong competition athletes that focus mainly on the indoor climbing, there is no chance to do well without specific training on plastic.

    Being an alpinist, and especially going on expeditions several times a year, is totally counterproductive to a competitors cycle. So there is no way to combine these two disciplines without making major compromises, especially if you have the ambition to win as I always did.


    Back to what you have been doing out in the world of mountains and rock. So far in your climbing life what do you regard as your greatest climbing achievement?

    That's a difficult question; there are quite a few first ascents that I'm proud of. But if I had to choose one it would probably be the first free ascent of Cerro Torre's southeast ridge, as I failed multiple times before I finally succeeded earlier this year. Furthermore I was confronted with a lot of critique due to mistakes that were made in course of producing a film on my first attempt, which made me reevaluate a lot of different things. I went through hell and back before I was able to realize my dream. For no other project so far have I had to grow as much, not just as a climber.


    Going through hell and back and also reevaluating a lot of different things. It seems that Cerro Torre was indeed a tough challenge, both the climbing of course, and the reaction from climbers following your attempts. You have grown as a person - what have you learned? And could you pass on any advice to other young climbers after this experience? If you could go back in time, would you do it again, or differently?

    If I went there now I would probably start off the project in the way I brought it to an end, but I certainly don't want to miss the experiences made. What I learned was definitely that mistakes, no matter how big, are just a status quo of a situation and offer a range of opportunities to grow on. My advice to young climbers would probably be: Go out there and make your own mistakes!


    In 2011 there was some controversy before your trip since you had stated that you planned to take a drill, and use the old bolts for protection on your free attempt. In the end you didn't use a drill and the upper bolt ladder had been removed just before you got there. What you achieved was amazing, but I am interested as to why your original plans had been less ambitious and clean than what it turned out you were capable of?

    My plan had always been ambitious and it actually didn't change a lot over the years. But as there was no real achievement in the first two years of attempting, all that was visible for the climbing world was the controversy concerning the filming bolts. I had always planned on clipping Maestri's bolts for protection. The route was there back then, and why pretend it wasn't? Regarding the alternations for a free ascent I had always hoped to be able to protect the climb exclusively with removable gear, but I had always suspected that there are some long, blank sections which are free climbable, but not protectable with removable gear; for those I had considered hand-drilling bolts. The fact that the Maestri’s bolts of the headwall were chopped for sure didn't make the whole endeavor easier, but actually the psychologically most demanding part first starts when you leave the Compressor Route. I had four 6mm bolts with me on the free ascent, but I ended up not placing any. There were blank sections, but I felt strong enough to run them out.

    ==

    Can you describe in detail the crux section of your free route on Cerro Torre? Where does it go in relation to the line of the old Compressor Route, and what is the climbing, protection and general feel of the pitch like? (Well done on what is one of the world's most iconic lines, by the way).

    The hardest pitch is the one that goes up a few meters left of the Salvaterra Crack, just a couple of meters above where Maestri's bolt traverse leads into blank granite to the right. The pitch starts off with relatively easy terrain before you climb a thin crack that leads you directly into the crux section, which is a quiet difficult boulder. There is one piton and below you can place some small nuts, maybe a really small cam would work too. Then you have to climb the crux section and about eight meters (26 feet) higher you can place a friend again. At first I thought it must be around 8a (5.13b), but the more I think about it the harder it feels. But I don't really care about the grade of this pitch as it says very little about the difficulty of the whole climb.


    Do you think that it is acceptable to leave small changes to the natural environment - fixed belays and ropes, protection bolts and pegs - or should we strive to leave the rock and mountains untouched so others that follow can find it in the same state, and has your opinion on this changed since the Cerro Torre trip?

    This question could be the basis of a discussion that lasts for hours... Climbing is about freedom, I've always said that written rules will not solve the problems of the world of our sport. But people that are eager for first ascent need to be aware of the fact that the terrain for first ascents gets rarer and rarer. I'm not saying that bolts are to be abandoned completely from alpine climbing, but pristine rock needs to be approached with much more forethought now than some decades ago. And wherever there is the possibility to protect with trad gear, no bolt should be added.

    All in all, it just has to make sense. I put up a new multipitch route called Safety Discussion with my partner Peter Ortner about a month ago through a steep limestone face in East Tirol. It consists of eleven pitches and has bolted belays and very few additional bolts. We first ascended the route partly in free climbing and partly aid climbing, but it was always our aim to make it a free climbable route. We reduced the number of bolts to an absolute minimum in this kind of terrain and left a couple of placements in situ for potential repeaters. With difficulties up to 8b (5.13d) and most pitches above 7b (5.12b), we had the impression that this style made sense.

    In regard to Cerro Torre, which is a very specific case, I think all climbers agree that the compressor route was a big mistake. Despite that f ct, I'm of the opinion that it should have been left in place as part of the mountains history and a symbol of human hubris for the next generations to learn from. For the status quo, it neither exists nor was it removed in its entirety.


    In 2010 you were part of a visiting Mammut Climbing Team who came to the Peak District, England, to sample some gritstone. Did you enjoy the style of gritstone climbing?

    I like the grit climbing a lot. I was actually there already before 2010 and also this September for a few days, together with a friend and we climbed some really nice routes.


    There was another, smaller, controversy after the Mammut Team visit where many of the routes you climbed on the trip were left covered in chalk tick marks, which is very much against the local ethic. Were you aware of this? Have you any thoughts about it now?

    Regarding the Mammut team trip, there was a bunch of people trying the same routes and we also had a long spell of good weather without any rain. Retrospectively it was kind of peculiar that this topic seems to be attached to my name. Even though there is no ethic over in Austria that forbids ticking, I'm known to get mad if people don't brush away their chalk. I'm certainly aware of the local ethics, but I wasn't the only one climbing. I think that's all that needs to be said.

    ==

    What are your future goals in your climbing?

    I thrive most in trying things nobody has ever done before. Generally speaking, big, alpine faces with logical lines are what I'm looking for. Whereas there are hardly any left to find in the Alps, there are plenty in the Karakoram or in the Himalayas. That was the main reason why Peter and I also chose to attempt Chogolisa this year after climbing Trango Tower, which is kind of an unusual goal for climbers like us. We wanted to see what our body feels like way above 7000 meters (22,965 feet), before we can go out next season and try to put up a new difficult climbing route in this altitude.


    Good luck on your next trip - where are you headed? Or is it a secret? And can you tell us about Peter? And what you look for in a partner for these kinds of adventures?

    In 2013 I'm planning on heading back to Patagonia for my fourth consecutive year and in summer I'll be back in Pakistan. I'm not 100% sure yet where exactly I'll be heading, but I saw so many unclimbed walls I just have to go back.

    Besides having what it takes to realize a project, my partner for big alpine projects needs to have a similar view on things as I do and has to be reliable. Peter is not only a strong alpinist, but also great guy and a good friend. Perhaps the only "downside" with having him as my main partner is that he simply cannot commit to expeditions as egoistically as I can. He has a family back home waiting for him.


    Interview and story by the UKClimbing Editorial Team for UKClimbing.com.

    For more on Lama read the full Rock and Ice article here).

     

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