• Will Sweat Harm My Harness?
  • Should You Use Rope or Webbing to Connect to an Anchor?
  • Choosing Between C4s and Friends
  • Can You Lead On a Static Rope?
  • Can I Use Climbing Bolts For Anchors in a Gym?
  • Are Falls Held or Breaking Strength More Important In a Rope?
  • Does Poop Harm a Climbing Rope?
  • Are Homemade Draws Reliable?
  • Shopping for Economy Carabiners
  • When You Fly, Can You Carry On Climbing Gear?
  • Can I Trust Fixed Draws?
  • Which Helmet WIll Fit My Big Head?
  • Choosing Ice Screw Length
  • Are Adjustable Leg Loops Useful?
  • Should I clip ice screws with Screamers?
  • How do I Make a Bomber Anchor?
  • Can I Modify my Crampon Without Compromising the Integrity?
  • Hot Versus Cold Forging
  • Caring For Your FIngertips
  • Are Sewn Slings Stronger Than Knotted Ones?
  • When to Replace Climbing Webbing
  • Using Grip Dip To Color Code Gear
  • The Benefits of Cotton
  • How to Pull a Rappel Rope
  • How to Properly Orient a Carabiner Gate
  • Are My Fuzzy Quickdraws Safe?
  • How to Stretch Climbing Shoes
  • Are 1/2-inch bolts really better than 3/8-inch?
  • Should I Resole My Rock Shoes?
  • Hand Drill Advice
  • Lonely Climber Looking for Woman
  • Is My Invented Knot Safe?
  • Difference Between Double and Twin Ropes
  • Dealing With an Argumentative Partner
  • Will Antifreeze Ruin Rope?
  • Why Is a Rack Called a Rack?
  • Rock Shoes For a Big Guy
  • Do They Kill Geese To Get Down?
  • How to Wash a Rope
  • Do Cam Teeth Do Anything?
  • Can I Fix Delaminated Rock Shoes?
  • Can I Mix a Static With a Dynamic Rope for Rappelling?
  • Should You Lower Or Rap Through Anchors?
  • Should You Clip the Belay As Your First Lead Pro?
  • How Should The Middle Man Tie In?
  • How Do I Get a Good Climbing Man?
  • Do Falls Weaken Bolts?
  • Should I Rope Solo?
  • Should I Angle Ice Screws Down?
  • How Should Old Climbers Train?
  • Can I Make a Belay Loop?
  • Reusiing Ice Screw Holes
  • Overcoming Fear of Falling
  • Choosing a Stove Fuel
  • Will My Hiking Boots Work With Crampons?
  • Do Heavy People Shock Load the Rope?
  • Can Offset Cams Subsitute for Regular Cams?
  • Can I Resling My Cams Myself?
  • Are Older Alien Cams Safe?
  • Antifreeze
  • The Truth About Climbing Supplements
  • Can I Make My Leashed Tools, Leashless?
  • Rope Stretch Facts
  • How To Cut a Rope Without a Knife
  • Secrets of the Toprope
  • How to Sharpen Crampons
  • Should I Become a Climbing Guide?
  • Preventing Climbing Rope Wear
  • How to Remove an Old Bolt
  • How to Customize Ice Tool Picks
  • Double Rope Facts
  • Do It Yourself Fruit Boots
  • Climbing Rope Sheath Slippage
  • Rockfall Safety
  • Do Screamers Work?
  • Defining the Cheater Stick and Stick Clip
  • Climbing Skin Care
  • Selecting a Gym Rope
  • Quick Links for Climbing
  • Are Russian Cams Good?
  • When To Retire Climbing Gear and Ropes
  • Should I Get a Link Cam?
  • How to Get a Climbing Mate
  • Will Dog Urine Harm My Rope?
  • Using Steel Carabiners for Fixed Quickdraws
  • Petzl Tibloc and Climbing Rope Sheath Damage
  • Overcoming Anger
  • Fixing a Spinning Bolt
  •  
    Video Spotlight
    Weekend Whipper: Groundfall at Frog Buttress
    Weekend Whipper: Groundfall at Frog Buttress

    Do Screamers Work?

    29-Jan-2010
    By Gear Guy

    Suppose I'm aiding. I am daisy chained to a bomber bolt while I am bounce testing a marginal placement. If the top piece blows, will it be okay to take a daisy fall if I have a Screamer between the bolt and my daisy?

    Listen up, Bagley, your entire system is jacked. You should never clip a daisy to a piece below you. A daisy chain is just a big pacifier. Sucking on it will give you a warm fuzzy feeling, but eventually it will make your teeth crooked and turn you into a chronic masturbator. Daisy chains are not intended to catch falls. Period. They are only intended to temporarily anchor you to overhead gear. There's this thing called a rope that is designed to catch falls in climbing. Why are you afraid of the rope?

    A daisy chain clipped to pro below you is nothing more than a false sense of security. Daisy chains don't stretch. Every daisy fall is static, or very close to it, and can deliver a jolt that makes the electric chair feel like an Asian massage.

    If the shock of a static fall doesn't rip your innards loose, gear will very likely break. Both might even happen. About five years ago, Rock and Ice conducted a series of drop tests using a 165-pound weight and daisy chains. When the weight was clipped to the end of the daisy chains and dropped the full 54 inches (the length of the daisies), the daisy chains both broke. When the weight was clipped to the pockets instead of the end, the pockets zippered out, creating a bit of a dynamic catch, but still pegged 2,200 pounds on the load-o-meter, enough to rip placements and break gear.

    Here is how you should use a daisy chain (think of this advice as coming straight from the burning bush, because it is):

    1. Place a piece overhead.

    2. Clip an aider to it.

    3. Clip a daisy chain to the aider.

    4. Clip the lead rope to the piece you are hanging on. This placement is probably around waist level.

    5. Unclip your daisy chain from the piece you are hanging on.

    6. Test the placement overhead. If that piece blows, the daisy chain will catch it, and if you fall the rope will give you a nice dynamic catch.

    Your notion of making a daisy chain dynamic by clipping it to a Screamer is misguided. When you incorporate a Screamer as you suggest, you are jury-rigging a piece of gear to suit a purpose that it is not designed for. In essence you are screwing a prosthetic leg into an arm hole -- it will work at some level, but, again, why not just use the rope to catch you? Next!

    Reader's Commentary:

    Don't want to use Facebook, but still want to comment? We have you covered:

    Add Your Comments to this article:
    No items found.
    Hello