Body

  • Rock Climbing Injury: Broken Hand
  • Rock Climbing Injury: Hydrocele, Spermatocele and Strained Groin
  • Rock Climbing Injury: Hand: Arthritis
  • Rock Climbing Injury: NSAIDS: To Use or Not to Use
  • Rock Climbing Injury: Open-Heart Surgery
  • Rock Climbing Injury: Osteopenia and Increasing Bone Density
  • Rock Climbing Injury: Body: Pain Meds vs Sex
  • Rock Climbing Injury: Appendectomy and Climbing Training
  • Rock Climbing Injury: Body: Injury Truths
  • Rock Climbing Injury: Body: BPA and Waterbottles
  • Rock Climbing Injury: Body: Bouldering for Bone Density
  • Rock Climbing Injury: Body: Chronic Injury
  • Rock Climbing Injury: Body: Bouldering for the Bones
  • Rock Climbing Injury: Body: Antibiotics and Tendon Damage
  • Back

  • Rock Climbing Injury: Lumbar Bone Spurs
  • Rock Climbing Injury: Back: Spinal Fracture
  • Back: Preventing Hunchback
  • Back: Herniated Disc
  • Abdomen

  • Rock Climbing Injury: Abdomen: Muscle Tear/Hernia
  • Arm

    No items found.

    Shoulder

  • Rock climbing Injury: Shoulder Pain
  • Rock Climbing Injury: Thoracic Musculature Tightness
  • Rock Climbing Injury: Chronic Posterior Shoulder Pain
  • Rock Climbing Injury: Chronic Shoulder Pain
  • Rock Climbing Injury: Supraspinatus and Labral Tears
  • Rock Climbing Injury: Shoulder Pain
  • Rock Climbing Injury: Shoulder Replacement
  • Rock Climbing Injury: Exploding Shoulder
  • Rock Climbing Injury: Shoulder: Thoracic Outlet Syndrome
  • Rock Climbing Injury: Shoulder: SLAP Lesion and Cortisone
  • Rock Climbing Injury: Shoulder: Frozen Shoulder
  • Rock Climbing Injury: Shoulder: Torn Labrum, SLAP Lesion
  • Rock Climbing Injury: Shoulder: Separation
  • Rock Climbing Injury: Shoulder: Pain and Virus
  • Biceps

  • Rock Climbing Injury: Bursting Biceps
  • Elbow

  • Rock Climbing Injury: Golfer's Elbow
  • Rock Climbing Injury: Elbow: Brachioradialis Pain
  • Rock Climbing Injury: Tennis Elbow
  • Rock Climbing Injury: Medial Epicondylosis Tendonitis
  • Rock Climbing Injury: Dodgy Elbows Revisited
  • Rock Climbing Injury: Synovial Chips
  • Rock Climbing Injury: Quack Elbow Treatments to Avoid
  • Rock Climbing Injury: Do Compression Sleeves Work?
  • Rock Climbing Injury: Elbow: Tennis Elbow
  • Rock Climbing Injury: Elbow: Medial Tendonosis
  • Rock Climbing Injury: Elbow: Elbow Pain and Dodgy Elbows
  • Rock Climbing Injury: Elbow: Tendonosis
  • Rock Climbing Injury: Elbow: Medial Epicondylosis and Taping
  • Rock Climbing Injury: Elbow: Tingling and Numbness
  • Rock Climbing Injury: Elbows: Minimizing Fingerboard Injuries
  • Rock Climbing Injury: Elbow: Medial Epicondyle Tendonosis
  • Rock Climbing Injury: Elbow: Stress Fracture
  • Rock Climbing Injury: Elbow: Pain and Hangboarding
  • Wrist

  • Rock Climbing Injury: TFCC Tear
  • Rock Climbing Injury: Wrist: Klienbock's Disease
  • Rock Climbing Injury: Wrist: Ruptured Tendon
  • Rock Climbing Injury: Snap, Crackle, Wrist
  • Rock Climbing Injury: Wrist: Fractured Scaphoid
  • Rock Climbing Injury: Wrist: Instability
  • Hand

  • Rock Climbing Injury: Broken Hand
  • Rock Climbing Injury: Left Hand: Hook of the Hamate Fracture
  • Rock Climbing Injury: Fingers: Everything You Need to Know About Finger Stress
  • Rock Climbing Injury: Hands: Dupuytren's Disease (lump in palm)
  • Rock Climbing Injury: Hands: Numbness and Carpal Tunnel Syndrome
  • Fingers

  • Rock Climbing Injury: Avulsion Fracture
  • Rock Climbing Injury: Pinky Numbness
  • Rock Climbing Injury: Swollen Right Index Finger
  • Rock Climbing Injury: Finger Numbness
  • Rock Climbing Injury: Alternative to Pulley Taping
  • Rock Climbing Injury: Hand: Arthritis
  • Rock Climbing Injury: Fourth Metacarpal Break
  • Rock Climbing Injury: First Pulley Strain
  • Rock Climbing Injury: Freezing Fingers Today, Benefit Tomorrow?
  • Rock Climbing Injury: Cysts in Fingers
  • Rock Climbing Injury: Ruptured Finger Pulley
  • Rock Climbing Injury: Fingers: What To Do with a Ruptured Flexor Digitorum Superficialis
  • Rock Climbing Injury: Fingers: Everything You Need to Know About Finger Stress
  • Rock Climbing Injury: Fingers: Hyper-extended
  • Rock Climbing Injury: Fingers: Cysts and Pain
  • Rock Climbing Injury: Fingers: Cracked Fingertips
  • Rock Climbing Injury: Fingers: De Quervain's Tenosynovitis
  • Rock Climbing Injury: Fingers: NSAID Treatment
  • Rock Climbing Injury: Fingers: Torn A2 Pulley
  • Rock Climbing Injury: Fingers: Trigger Thumb Syndrome
  • Rock Climbing Injury: Fingers: Stiffness, Soreness
  • Rock Climbing Injury: Fingers: Grip Position and Injury
  • Rock Climbing Injury: Fingers: Pinky Finger Pain
  • Rock Climbing Injury: Fingers: Electrostimulation
  • Rock Climbing Injury:Fingers: Cortisone for Tendon Injuries
  • Rock Climbing Injury: Hands: Numbness and Carpal Tunnel Syndrome
  • Rock Climbing Injury: Fingers: Taping Truths
  • Rock Climbing Injury: Fingers: Flappers
  • Rock Climbing Injury: Fingers: Trigger-Finger Syndrome
  • Rock Climbing Injury: Fingers: Torn A3 and A4 Pulleys
  • Rock Climbing Injury: Fingers: Cysts
  • Rock Climbing Injury: Fingers: Arthritis
  • Rock Climbing Injury: Fingers: Numbness
  • Rock Climbing Injury: Fingers: Blown Tendons
  • Leg

  • Rock Climbing Injury: Leg: Achilles Tendonitis
  • Rock Climbing Injury: Leg and Knee: Broken Femur and Shattered Kneecap
  • Rock Climbing Injury: Leg: Pulled Hamstring
  • Rock Climbing Injury: Leg: Fracture
  • Knee

  • Rock Climbing Injury: Blown Knees
  • Rock Climbing Injury: MCL Injury
  • Rock Climbing Injury: Outside Knee Pain: Tibiofibular Joint
  • Rock Climbing Injury: Knee Tendonitis after Ankle Fusion
  • Rock Climbing Injury: Meniscal Tear on a Drop Knee
  • Rock Climbing Injury: Knee: Rockfall Causes Lump
  • Rock Climbing Injury: Knee: Chondral Injury of the Lateral Tibial Plateau
  • Rock Climbing Injury: Leg and Knee: Broken Femur and Shattered Kneecap
  • Rock Climbing Injury: Knee: Ruptured ACL
  • Rock Climbing Injury: Knee: Ruptured Ligament and Meniscus
  • Rock Climbing Injury: Knee: Synovial Cartilage Damage
  • Ankle

  • Rock Climbing Injury: Osteochondral Talus Fracture
  • Rock Climbing Injury: Knee Tendonitis after Ankle Fusion
  • Rock Climbing Injury: Snapped ankle tendon
  • Rock Climbing Injury: Possible Death of the Talus Bone
  • Rock Climbing Injury: Broken Talus Bone
  • America's Best Climbing Area: Red River Gorge
  • Rock Climbing Injury: Ankle: Loud Pop Ankle Roll
  • Feet

  • Rock Climbing Injury: Bunions
  • Ice Climbing Injury: Toenail Pressure
  • Rock Climbing Injury: Feet: Broken Foot
  • Rock Climbing Injury: Feet: Gout and Pseudogout
  • Rock Climbing Injury: Feet: Toe Fracture
  •  
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    Rock Climbing Injury: Elbow: Medial Epicondylosis and Taping

    12-Apr-2010
    By

    I've had elbow tendonosis for the last year and am finally back to climbing pain free. A physical therapist has told me that weakness in my wrists may be placing greater loads on the elbow tendon, and that taping the wrists before climbing might help. Any thoughts?

    RAY GIROUX, CAMBRIDGE, MASSACHUSETTS

    Hmm, not too sure where your therapist is heading with this one. Virtually all the muscles controlling the wrist arise from either side of your elbow, the flexors from the common flexor tendon on the medial side, and extensors from its alter ego on the lateral aspect. Assuming you have medial epicondylosis (see Medicine, No. 156), the muscle usually afflicted is a wrist flexor sporting the handle flexor carpi ulnaris (FCU). Your therapist's explanation, if not his/her understanding of tendonosis, leaves a lot to be desired. In this malady, the muscle is actually too strong and as a result, is damaging the common tendon at the origin of FCU. It is the tendon at the elbow that is too weak, not the muscle, or the tendon at the wrist as it inserts into one of the carpal bones.

    It is possible your PT is referring to laxity (flexibility) in your wrist, and translating this to read instability. The two, however, are by no means linked. Instability is dependent on weakness or loss of motor control, whereas laxity simply means you missed a career performing a triple overhead backbend, your gonads adorning your forehead, while at the same time juggling Oompa Loompahs. At this end of the flexibility spectrum you have a higher propensity for injury (see Ask Dr. J, No. 169), but I would recommend proprioceptive/strength-based exercises rather than prophylactic taping. If ulna carpal instability were the case, you would almost certainly have suffered recurrent pain on the little-finger side of your wrist long before a chronic-overload injury at your elbow.

    Taping for prevention is at best futile, and at worst detrimental. Many PT's love tape. More than a few missed their calling in the bondage industry.

    Taping to protect an existing injury, by restricting its range of motion, can be very helpful, though that, too, can cause problems.
    The wrist, of all articulations, is one of the more likely to suffer from pointless restrictive taping. The narrowest part of your wrist contains 23 tendons, half a dozen major blood vessels, three major nerves and several minor ones, eight bones and a whole bunch of other stuff that is highly dependent on what little space there is. Do you really think compressing all of this will enhance performance? At the very least you will get pumped faster

     

    RELATED ARTICLES

    Elbows and Wrists: Tendonitis and Tendonisis

    Elbow: Medial Epicondylosis and Taping

    Elbow Pain and Hangboarding

    Elbow Stress Fracture

    Elbow Tendonisis

    Elbow Tingling and Numbness

    Elbow: Minimizing Fingerboarding Injuries

    Wrist Instability and Carpal Tunnel

    Wrist Fracture

    Hands Dupuytren's Disease

    Hand Numbness

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