I’m 26 and have been climbing for six years. The last three years
I’ve had medial tendonosis in both elbows. For several months I’ve tried
all the exercises in various rehab programs including [Dr. J’s] Dodgy
Elbows. I got a cortisone shot in March that lasted until July. It’s
frustrating because when I get into better climbing shape, I can’t push
my limits at all—it gets too painful. Now I’m in pain again. Typing on
the computer is very painful (and I just spent two months writing my
dissertation). I wake up every night with pain in my elbows,
particularly when I bend my arms. Should I keep getting cortisone shots
three times a year? Is surgery an option?
—Vlasof | Rock And Ice Forum
You take pain with the valor of a freedom fighter! (Or are
they peace keepers? Depends on which side you’re on, I suppose.) And I
like your persistence.
There are variations on medial epicondylosis. The same
muscles or biomechanics are not always involved. Hence the exercises and
angles can be quite different. Are you doing both the pronator teres
and flexor carpi ulnaris exercises? Have you tried changing the elbow
angle to better target the painful area?
Cortisone may temporarily placate the condition (or not) and
will certainly further feed the rapacious pharmaceutical industry.
Long-term use is not recommended for many reasons, including that it is
not a solution.
I have never actually referred someone for surgery for this
condition (assuming the diagnosis is correct). I only know two people
who have actually had surgery. Both regretted the decision—the first
because he subsequently saw me for his other elbow and my program
provided a safer and faster solution, and the second person because the
surgeon inadvertently (and irreparably) sliced through the ulna nerve,
causing more weakness than death itself. At least after dying you would
have the benefit of rigor mortis.