Body

  • Rock Climbing Injury: Body: Pain Meds vs Sex
  • Rock Climbing Injury: Appendectomy and Climbing Training
  • Rock Climbing Injury: Body: Injury Truths
  • Rock Climbing Injury: Body: BPA and Waterbottles
  • Rock Climbing Injury: Body: Bouldering for Bone Density
  • Rock Climbing Injury: Body: Chronic Injury
  • Rock Climbing Injury: Body: Bouldering for the Bones
  • Rock Climbing Injury: Body: Antibiotics and Tendon Damage
  • Back

  • Rock Climbing Injury: Lumbar Bone Spurs
  • Rock Climbing Injury: Back: Spinal Fracture
  • Back: Preventing Hunchback
  • Back: Herniated Disc
  • Abdomen

  • Rock Climbing Injury: Abdomen: Muscle Tear/Hernia
  • Arm

    No items found.

    Shoulder

  • Rock Climbing Injury: Exploding Shoulder
  • Rock Climbing Injury: Shoulder: Thoracic Outlet Syndrome
  • Rock Climbing Injury: Shoulder: SLAP Lesion and Cortisone
  • Rock Climbing Injury: Shoulder: Frozen Shoulder
  • Rock Climbing Injury: Shoulder: Torn Labrum, SLAP Lesion
  • Rock Climbing Injury: Shoulder: Separation
  • Rock Climbing Injury: Shoulder: Pain and Virus
  • Biceps

  • Rock Climbing Injury: Bursting Biceps
  • Elbow

  • Rock Climbing Injury: Do Compression Sleeves Work?
  • Rock Climbing Injury: Elbow: Tennis Elbow
  • Rock Climbing Injury: Elbow: Medial Tendonosis
  • Rock Climbing Injury: Elbow: Elbow Pain and Dodgy Elbows
  • Rock Climbing Injury: Elbow: Tendonosis
  • Rock Climbing Injury: Elbow: Medial Epicondylosis and Taping
  • Rock Climbing Injury: Elbow: Tingling and Numbness
  • Rock Climbing Injury: Elbows: Minimizing Fingerboard Injuries
  • Rock Climbing Injury: Elbow: Medial Epicondyle Tendonosis
  • Rock Climbing Injury: Elbow: Stress Fracture
  • Rock Climbing Injury: Elbow: Pain and Hangboarding
  • Wrist

  • Rock Climbing Injury: Wrist: Klienbock's Disease
  • Rock Climbing Injury: Wrist: Ruptured Tendon
  • Rock Climbing Injury: Snap, Crackle, Wrist
  • Rock Climbing Injury: Wrist: Fractured Scaphoid
  • Rock Climbing Injury: Wrist: Instability
  • Hand

  • Rock Climbing Injury: Fingers: Everything You Need to Know About Finger Stress
  • Rock Climbing Injury: Hands: Dupuytren's Disease (lump in palm)
  • Rock Climbing Injury: Hands: Numbness and Carpal Tunnel Syndrome
  • Fingers

  • Rock Climbing Injury: Freezing Fingers Today, Benefit Tomorrow?
  • Rock Climbing Injury: Cysts in Fingers
  • Rock Climbing Injury: Ruptured Finger Pulley
  • Rock Climbing Injury: Fingers: What To Do with a Ruptured Flexor Digitorum Superficialis
  • Rock Climbing Injury: Fingers: Everything You Need to Know About Finger Stress
  • Rock Climbing Injury: Fingers: Hyper-extended
  • Rock Climbing Injury: Fingers: Cysts and Pain
  • Rock Climbing Injury: Fingers: Cracked Fingertips
  • Rock Climbing Injury: Fingers: De Quervain's Tenosynovitis
  • Rock Climbing Injury: Fingers: NSAID Treatment
  • Rock Climbing Injury: Fingers: Torn A2 Pulley
  • Rock Climbing Injury: Fingers: Trigger Thumb Syndrome
  • Rock Climbing Injury: Fingers: Stiffness, Soreness
  • Rock Climbing Injury: Fingers: Grip Position and Injury
  • Rock Climbing Injury: Fingers: Pinky Finger Pain
  • Rock Climbing Injury: Fingers: Electrostimulation
  • Rock Climbing Injury:Fingers: Cortisone for Tendon Injuries
  • Rock Climbing Injury: Hands: Numbness and Carpal Tunnel Syndrome
  • Rock Climbing Injury: Fingers: Taping Truths
  • Rock Climbing Injury: Fingers: Flappers
  • Rock Climbing Injury: Fingers: Trigger-Finger Syndrome
  • Rock Climbing Injury: Fingers: Torn A3 and A4 Pulleys
  • Rock Climbing Injury: Fingers: Cysts
  • Rock Climbing Injury: Fingers: Arthritis
  • Rock Climbing Injury: Fingers: Numbness
  • Rock Climbing Injury: Fingers: Blown Tendons
  • Leg

  • Rock Climbing Injury: Leg: Achilles Tendonitis
  • Rock Climbing Injury: Leg and Knee: Broken Femur and Shattered Kneecap
  • Rock Climbing Injury: Leg: Pulled Hamstring
  • Rock Climbing Injury: Leg: Fracture
  • Knee

  • Rock Climbing Injury: Meniscal Tear on a Drop Knee
  • Rock Climbing Injury: Knee: Rockfall Causes Lump
  • Rock Climbing Injury: Knee: Chondral Injury of the Lateral Tibial Plateau
  • Rock Climbing Injury: Leg and Knee: Broken Femur and Shattered Kneecap
  • Rock Climbing Injury: Knee: Ruptured ACL
  • Rock Climbing Injury: Knee: Ruptured Ligament and Meniscus
  • Rock Climbing Injury: Knee: Synovial Cartilage Damage
  • Ankle

  • Rock Climbing Injury: Snapped ankle tendon
  • Rock Climbing Injury: Possible Death of the Talus Bone
  • Rock Climbing Injury: Broken Talus Bone
  • America's Best Climbing Area: Red River Gorge
  • Rock Climbing Injury: Ankle: Loud Pop Ankle Roll
  • Feet

  • Rock Climbing Injury: Bunions
  • Ice Climbing Injury: Toenail Pressure
  • Rock Climbing Injury: Feet: Broken Foot
  • Rock Climbing Injury: Feet: Gout and Pseudogout
  • Rock Climbing Injury: Feet: Toe Fracture
  •  
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    Rock Climbing Injury: Elbow: Tennis Elbow

    16-Jan-2013
    By

    I’ve had pain on the outside of my elbow for four or five years. I climb, rest, do tons of PT, fish, find a new PT, rest, climb, quit fishing forever, climb, quit climbing forever, climb, rest, and so on. Right now I’m talking with an orthopedic surgeon who’s experimenting with PRP therapy. I was obviously interested in magic-potion injections and made an appointment. He was not able to diagnose my injury. We did some x-rays and ruled out joint stuff, arthritis and some other stuff I think he was making up. Point is he does not think (based on the location of my pain) that it’s lateral epicondylitis. Now he wants to do an MRI. The pain has moved around a bit in recent years but the marked spot on the attached photos has been the most persistent. Should I have an MRI?
    —Anonymous | Rock and Ice Forum

    Clearly you are a guy of extreme responses, but quitting fishing is going a little far. 

     PRP therapy is a variation on autologus blood injections, whereby instead of blood being injected into the naughty tendon, it is refined into a solution that is higher in platelets. There are no studies to suggest one method is more effective than the other, or in fact that either is particularly effective by itself. Currently there are some fairly low-quality studies and a bunch of anecdotal evidence that suggest improvement rather than resolution of tendonosis. If you have a predilection for needle-stick medicine, I would try voodoo first.

    Keep in mind that you are attempting a lazy solution. Or someone doesn’t know their exercise rehab. Or both. I agree with said doctor that lateral epicondylosis in its more common incarnation is unlikely; i.e., tendonosis of extensor carpi radialis longus (ECRL)—the long muscle that extends your wrist on the thumb side—is not the culprit. The position you have marked on the image is over the supinator. Does it hurt to supinate your hand against resistance when the elbow is straight or slightly bent? Take someone’s hand as though you are going to shake it. Now try to twist the person’s hand such that it is on the top while he resists at about 80 percent (i.e. you will win against the resistance).  

    It is thought that an injury to the wrist, which can be as minor as a sprain, pinches or severs the blood supply, but in a significant portion of cases no injury event can be identified. Progression of the disease is virtually always treated with surgery unless you are an Oompa Loompa, in which case it is microsurgery. If the condition is a tendonosis you will get pain doing specific movements of your hand or forearm that tend to diminish as the tendon warms up, but return soon after you finish exercising. The trick is to isolate that movement and tailor an eccentric exercise program to strengthen the tendon. Everything else is a trick that will end in a trail of tears. You can read about more common versions of elbow tendonosis and how to cure them at www.drjuliansaunders.com/resources/.

    Without a definitive diagnosis (and your pain may not even be tendonosis, let alone the type I have suggested), moving forward is akin to revving your engine in neutral—not likely to end in disaster but, not going to get you anywhere, either.  

    If your guy can’t diagnose the issue, an MRI may be a convenient, albeit pricey, shortcut. Certainly, this doesn’t sound anything like what a practitioner would routinely see in practice.

    Julian Saunders is a registered D.O. His advice is to take anything he says with a lick of salt, followed by the best tequila you can find.

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