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  • IFSC World Cup in Toronto May 30-31
  • Ramp Up Your Training with Fun
  • Sébastian Bouin Claims Third Ascent of Chilam Balam (5.15b), Spain
  • Bouldering Competition to be Held in Memory of Tito Traversa
  • Time to Sign Up For the John Long Writing Symposium!
  • Alex Puccio on Training, Bodyweight and Crowdfunding
  • Vasya Vorotnikov, Claire Bresnan Claim Bouldering Titles at Riverrock
  • VIDEO: Tommy Caldwell Cruises Ice-Covered Crack
  • Kev Shields – High Solace: Demons, Depression and Solo Climbing
  • Siegrist Sends Le Cadre Nouvelle (5.14d)–“Best climbing trip of my life”
  • Germans Win Big at European Bouldering Championships
  • VIDEO: Raw Power Vs Flawless Technique
  • Ethan Pringle Sends Jumbo Love (5.15b) – Hardest Sport Climb in America
  • Dean Potter Killed in Wingsuit Accident in Yosemite
  • Solo Climber Found Dead on Denali
  • LIVE STREAM: European Bouldering Championships 2015 – Semi-finals
  • VIDEO: Gord McArthur - The Man Behind the Machine
  • Logan Barber Frees The Firewall (5.13d)—Hardest Trad Line in China
  • Training Beta: How to Warm Up For Route Climbing
  • A Second Earthquake and A Shorter Everest
  • Sherpa Future Fund and Account of the April 25 Everest Avalanche
  • Dai Koyamada Sends Three-Year “Super Project”
  • Chris Sharma Onsights Snuff Movies (8c/5.14b), Catalonia, Spain
  • 2015 Ice Climbing Trip Report: Montana, Wyoming and Norway
  • Calling All Non-Sponsored Climbers
  • Melloblocco 2015: World's Largest International Bouldering Festival
  • Dean Potter Sets New Half Dome FKT
  • Indian Creek, Cedar Mesa Under Threat by Utah Legislature
  • Nepal Disaster Relief: How You Can Help
  • Dani Arnold Breaks Ueli Steck’s Speed Record on the Matterhorn
  • Big Men: 5.15a First Ascent by Iker Pou, Spain
  • A Summitless Year for Everest? North Side Closed, Retreat from the South
  • Training Beta: How to Make Yourself Try Hard
  • Q&A: Angie Scarth-Johnson, 10, On Tijuanita (5.14a)
  • Mina Leslie-Wujastyk, Mecca Extension (5.14b) and What it Means to be a Climber
  • Climbing Accident: Earthquake, Avalanche, 21 Dead on Everest, Over 4,600 in Nepal
  • VIDEO: Chris Sharma Sends El Bon Combat (5.15b/c)
  • Angie Scarth-Johnson, 10, Climbs Her First 5.14b
  • VIDEO: Yvon Chouinard on the Today Show
  • VIDEO: Lynn Hill, Real Life Superhero
  • Angy Eiter Sends Era Vella (5.14d), Spain
  • Sufferfest: Alex Honnold and Cedar Wright on Nat Geo Live
  • VIDEO: Sasha DiGiulian on the Deep Bond Between Climbing Partners
  • Geyikbayiri Saved: Climbers Stop Mining Operation at Turkey’s Largest Crag
  • Pamela Pack Establishes 5.13 Offwidth, American Horror Story
  • Jacopo Larcher Gets Second Ascent of Helmutant (5.14d), Italy (With Video)
  • Carlo Traversi Bags Bad Girls Club (5.14d), Rifle, Colorado
  • Training Beta: Mark and Mike Anderson’s Guide to Hangboard Training
  • Daniel Woods, Jon Cardwell Send Kryptonite (5.14d)
  • Puccio Sends V10, V11 and V12 in One Day
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  • Jakob Schubert Gets Second Ascent of Bügeleisen Sit, Austria’s First V15
  • 2015 Piolets d’Or Awards
  • Rub it Raw: Mike Anderson, Bryan Bird Free Five-Pitch 5.13 in Zion
  • Alex Megos Downunder
  • Vikki Weldon Sends Los Humildes pa Casa (5.14a), Oliana, Spain
  • Q&A: Sonnie Trotter On Estado Critico (5.14d)
  • Roads, Bridges Washed Out At Red River Gorge
  • Kai Lightner Sends His First 5.14d, Era Vella, Spain
  • Sonnie Trotter Sends Estado Critico (5.14d), Siurana, Spain
  • Ramón Julián Puigblanque: Two 5.14d's and Two 5.15a's in Four Days
  • Matt Segal Bags 2nd Ascent of Carbondale Short Bus (5.14-)
  • VIDEO: Dave MacLeod – Project Fear
  • VIDEO: Training with Adam Ondra
  • Climb Safe: Do Ropes Need to Rest Between Falls?
  • Rock Climbing Training: How to Lose Weight for Climbing
  • Dean Potter: When Dogs Fly
  • Q&A: Jesse Grupper, 2015 SCS National Championship Runner-Up
  • Kai Lightner, Delaney Miller Win 2015 SCS National Championships
  • LIVE: 2015 SCS National Championships
  • Annapurna Claims Two More Lives
  • ​Carlo Traversi Sends Kryptonite (5.14d)
  • Roland Wagner: A 21-Year Dream to Climb 5.14d (With Video)
  • Ashima Ticks Another Project in Spain
  • Alex Megos: Japan Sendathon
  • Jonathan Siegrist Sends La Rambla (5.15a)
  • VIDEO: Ontario Climbing
  • Ethan Pringle Sends La Reina Mora (5.14d)
  • Ashima Shiraishi Climbs Possible 5.15a
  • Rock Climbing Accident: Climber Falls to Death, Apparent Bolt Failure
  • Climb Safe: Can A Hot Belay Device Melt My Slings?
  • Golden Moment: Bill Ramsey Sends 5.14b at 54
  • VIDEO: Alex Megos on Lucid Dreaming (V15)
  • Mason Earle Establishes New 5.14 Crack Climb
  • Wildfire Tears Through Cape Town Crags
  • Siberian Express: New 5.14c from Mark Anderson
  • PHOTO GALLERY: Canadian Ice: By John Price
  • Lead Singer of The Rebel Spell Dies in Climbing Accident
  • Ryan Vachon and Sarah Hueniken Crush Vail’s Hardest Mixed Lines
  • Caldwell, Honnold, Practice Your Speeches for the 2015 Piolets d’Or
  • Chris Sharma Sends El Bon Combat (5.15b/c)
  • LIVE STREAM: Climbing Works International Festival 2015
  • PHOTO GALLERY: Women of Rock 3 in HD
  • Magic Woods
  • Alex Johnson: FA of The Swoop (V10), with Video
  • VIDEO: Teton Gravity: The Himalayas from 20,000 ft.
  • 2015 Rock and Ice Photo Camp Enrollment Now Open
  • First Free-Solo of Chiaro di Luna (5.11a), Fitz Roy Massif, Patagonia
  • Q&A: Ondra Sends Necessary Evil, Says Failures Are Reasons to Train
  • Pakistan to Train High-Altitude Police Unit to Protect Climbers
  • Marc-André Leclerc Solos Corkscrew on Cerro Torre
  • New Winter Route on the Troll Wall, Romsdal, Norway
  • New Paltz Climbing Gym Burns Down
  • Hueco Tanks Public Use Plan Under Review
  • Kwon YoungHye Sends World's Hardest Mixed-Climbs In A Season
  • Everest: Reroute Through Khumbu Icefall for the 2015 Climbing Season
  • Sachi Amma Sends 5.15a on 4th Attempt, in Santa Linya, Spain
  • Griffin Whiteside Sends The Big Island (V15) in Fontainebleau
  • Royal Canadian Air Force Sgt. Missing After Ice Climbing Accident
  • Puccio and Woods Both Claim 9th ABS National Title
  • Colin Haley and Marc-André Leclerc Put Up New Routes in Patagonia
  • Papert Claims Second Ascent of M12 Scarefest
  • Sneak Peek: The Dawn Wall Issue Is On The Way!
  • Messner Capped the Hour at the AAC’s 2015 Annual Benefit Dinner
  • Sachi Amma Sends Sharma's Fight or Flight (5.15b) in Oliana, Spain
  • Climbing Guide Dies in Fall
  • VIDEO: Will Gadd Sends Niagara Falls
  • Will Gadd Climbs a Frozen Niagara Falls
  • SlabMaster: Klemen Bečan Onsights 5.14c in Spain (With Video)
  • The Quinfecta: Classic San Juan Colorado Ice Climb Link-up
  • Alex Megos Sends Lucid Dreaming (V15)
  • Nalle Hukkataival Cranks First Ascent of Kintsugi (V15)
  • Nick Duttle Sends 5.14d Project in New Mexico
  • The Grand Experience: Superbowl XLIX to Host Rock Climbing Wall
  • Tommy Caldwell and Kevin Jorgeson Appear on The Ellen DeGeneres Show
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  • Climbing Film "Meru" Makes it into the Sundance Film Festival
  • Acclaimed Cellist Ben Sollee Raises Money for Red River Gorge
  • Q&A: Jason Kehl Proves that Hueco Tanks Is Far From Climbed Out
  • Daniel Woods Sends The Process-Possible V16
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  • The Dawn Wall Goes Down!
  • The Film "Valley Uprising" is Now Available Here
  • Guidebook Worth its Weight in Gold, Selling for $1,000
  • Dawn Wall Update: Jorgeson Catches Caldwell, Final Push Begins
  • Dawn Wall Update: Jorgeson Sends Dyno, Two Pitches Away from Wino Tower
  • Gadd Wins Ouray, Again
  • Dawn Wall Update: Jorgeson Sends Pitch 15!
  • Dawn Wall Update: Caldwell Sends Last 5.14 Pitch!
  • Sasha DiGiulian to Compete in Ouray Ice Fest
  • Dawn Wall Update: Caldwell Sends Pitch 16!
  • Sam Elias Reports on New Routes in Lebanon
  • Dawn Wall Update: Caldwell and Jorgeson Both Send Crux Pitch!
  • Caldwell and Jorgeson are Charging Up The Dawn Wall
  • Ashima Shiraishi Climbs V12 in Bishop
  • Toni Lamprecht Establishes Black Flag (5.14c/d)
  • Video: Niky Ceria Bouldering in Albarracin, Spain Before the Chalk Ban
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  • Adam Ondra Flashes Chromosome Y (5.14d)
  • TNB: The Story Behind the Craziest of Rescues
  • Broken Rules and Broken Problems in Red Rock, Nevada
  • Will Mayo Sends Jedi Mind Tricks (M13) and Establishes Mustang (M14)
  • Jeff Mercier Onsights D13
  • Climbing Saves At-Risk Youth in Mexico
  • Ascent, Now Accepting Stories
  • Jimmy Webb Takes Down Defying Gravity (V15)
  • Climber Dies From Fall in the Gunks
  • Tommy Caldwell Sends Last Hard Pitch on the Dawn Wall
  • Ondra Takes First in Lead World Cup
  • Honnold Frees El Cap's Muir Wall (5.13b/c) in 12 Hours with No Falls
  • Clif Bar's Response: A Letter to the Climbing Community
  • Delaney Miller Jumps From V7 to V11
  • Drew Ruana, 15, Sends an American Classic - Just Do It (5.14c)
  • Alex Megos Sends Mandala Sit Start (V13/14)
  • Dave Pegg, King of Rifle, Has Died
  • Honnold, Potter, and Others Fired by Clif Bar for Soloing
  • Jorg Verhoeven Free Climbs the Nose (5.14) on El Cap
  • Jakob Schubert Wastes No Time in Magic Wood
  • Jimmy Webb Makes First Ascent of Wyoming’s Multiverse (V14)
  • New Outhouse in Indian Creek in Honor of Black Diamond Engineer
  • Gear Review: Mammut Realization Shorts
  • Another New Speed Record on the Nose for Sauter and Smith-Gobat
  • Gabriele Moroni Finishes Three-Year Project—Goldrake (5.15a)
  • Martin Stranik Repeats Practice of the Wild (V15)
  • Libby Sauter and Mayan Smith-Gobat Break El Cap Speed Record
  • Nina Caprez Sends 5.14b at a New Crag in Turkey
  • Ondra and Kim Back on Top at Inzai World Cup
  • Marieta Akalski Cranks in Spain, Sends Florida (5.14b)
  • Vandalism Across National Parks
  • Sonnie Trotter Establishes His Hardest Trad Climb - Family Man (5.14b)
  • Climber Dies in Fall at Zion National Park
  • Pete Whittaker Flashes Freerider (5.12d) on El Cap
  • Déjà Vu for Women, Ghisolfi Gets First Gold
  • Mina Leslie-Wujastyk Sends Mecca Extension (5.14b)
  • J-Star is Livin' Astro (5.14c)
  • Alex Huber Establishes 10-Pitch Alpine 5.14b
  • Bouldering in Namibia
  • Hukkataival Puts Up "One of the Best Boulders" He's Ever Climbed
  • Surprise in Korea: Ondra Out of Finals, Nice Wins for Schubert and Markovic
  • Scott Cosgrove Gravely Injured
  • Updated! Back-to-Back Strong Sends for Angela Eiter
  • DiGiulian and Marin Send 1,000-Foot 5.14 in Sardinia
  • Fabian Buhl Expands Repertoire With Six-Pitch Silbergeier (5.14a)
  • New Four-Pitch Mixed Testpiece in Utah
  • Katharina Saurwein Becomes Third Woman to Send Nuthin' But Sunshine (V13)
  • VIDEO: Mark Heal Makes FA of Holy Rails Sit (V13) in Tuolumne
  • Two V14s in a Day for Dave Graham
  • Oakdale Climbers Festival Themed "A Woman's Reach"
  • Avalanche Kills Two On 8,000m Himalayan Peak
  • Fred Nicole Sends The Escapist (V14)
  • Canadian Crusher Marieta Akalski Storms Rifle, Sends Her First 5.14a
  • The Naked Edge Done in 26 Minutes, See Video Clip
  • Mountain Guide Latest IS Victim
  • Daniel Woods Bags First Ascent at 14,000 Feet
  • VIDEO: Jorg Verhoeven and Katharina Saurwein Rip It Up in RMNP
  • Lee Sheftel Climbs 5.13b at 68 Years Old
  • Alex Puccio Sends Her Second V14, Wheel of Chaos
  • Brette Harrington Makes Second Female Ascent of the Trad Route Shadow (5.13a)
  • Cheyne Lempe and Ethan Pringle Climb New Route in Yosemite
  • Jon Cardwell Sends Wheel of Chaos (V14) In A Day
  • VIDEO: The Psychology of Climbing Champion Ramón Julián
  • World Cup Climber Sean McColl Dominates American Ninja Warrior
  • Jonathan Siegrist Develops Hard Routes in Idaho
  • Alex Megos Sends His Longest Project Yet—Geocache
  • Climber Dies From Fall On Mount Garfield, Washington
  • Q&A: Yuji Hirayama Wants More UK Trad
  • VIDEO: Inside the Mind of a Free Soloist - Tom Randall Goes Ropeless
  • Nalle Hukkataival Sends V15 Project in Australia
  • James Pearson Flashes Something’s Burning (5.13d X) in Wales
  • Yuji Hirayama Sends 5.13+ R Trad Testpiece
  • Chris Bonington, 80, Sends Old Man of Hoy for his Birthday
  • Alex Puccio's Outdoor Climbing Pays Off At Arco
  • VIDEO: Jonathan Siegrist Climbing Speed Intégrale (5.14d)
  • Ondra Dominates Bouldering Championships, Puccio Takes Silver
  • Alex Honnold Talks About the Risk of Free Soloing
  • Climber Dies in Tuolumne Meadows
  • Alex Puccio Climbs The Automator (V13)
  • Urs Moosmuller Climbs Fathers Day (5.14a) on Gear
  • Q&A: Beat Kammerlander Still Runs It Out
  • Buhrfeind and McColl Win 2014 Psicobloc Masters
  • Famed Utah Tower Falls
  • Angie Payne Gets Freaky with Her Second V13
  • Alex Puccio Sends Jade (V14)
  • Nina Caprez Redpoints All Pitches on Orbayu (5.14b)
  • First All-Female Nepalese Team Summits K2
  • Interview: Alex Megos Climbs Slow, But Sends Fast
  • VIDEO: Coxsey Climbs New Base Line (V14)
  • VIDEO: Nalle Hukkataival on Bügeleisen Sit Start (V15+)
  • Hans Florine, 50, Sets Solo Speed Record for Triple Direct on El Cap
  • Q&A: Shauna Coxsey Third Woman to Climb V14
  • Sam Davis Climbs Jade (V14)
  • Q&A: Alex Megos Sends Biographie/Realization (5.15a) in Three Tries
  • Q&A: Mirko Caballero Claims His 2nd V14
  • Rock Climbing Accident: Respected Climber Falls 50 Feet and Dies at Cathedral Ledge
  • Coxsey and Caballero Climb V14
  • Ashima Shiraishi, 13, Becomes Second Female to Climb V14
  • Mélissa Le Nevé Sends Baa Baa Black Sheep (5.14b/c)
  • Alex Puccio Sends Nuthin’ But Sunshine (V13)
  • Q&A: Joe Kinder Climbs Punks in the Gym (5.14a) in a Downpour
  • Q&A: Sam Elias and Mike Kerzhner Fire 3rd Ascent of El Cap's PreMuir (5.13+)
  • Austin Siadak Solos Evolution Traverse in a Day
  • Roland Hemetzberger Frees Multi-Pitch 5.14a in Zillertal, Austria
  • Q&A: Mirko Caballero flashes his first V11 in South Africa
  • Kyle Vassilopoulos Establishes 130-Foot 5.14 at Wolf Point
  • Hukkataival Climbs Alpine Sport Testpiece Sibergeier (5.14a)
  • Chattanooga's Take on Buildering
  • Alex Megos Frees 20-Pitch 5.14b in Switzerland
  • Trotter, Caldwell, Wharton Put Up Six-Pitch Route in Sicily
  • Jes Meiris Beats Female Solo Speed Record of the Nose by 4 Days
  • Eitan Green, 28, Remembered
  • Kilian Jornet Smashes Speed Record on Denali
  • 7-Up: Honnold and Allfrey Climb 7 El Cap Routes in 7 Days
  • How To Be a Xena of Rock Climbing
  • Vail World Cup Comp Report: Noguchi repeats from last weekend, Sharafutdinov from last time at Vail
  • Emily Harrington Runs It Out to Send Tom et Je Ris (5.14a)
  • David Mason Sends 20 Problems (V11-V13) in Vastervik, Sweden
  • Mark Anderson Establishes the Hardest Route at Independence Pass
  • Six Presumed Dead After 3,000-Foot Fall On Mount Rainier
  • Q&A: Jonathan Siegrist Sends Biographie/Realization (5.15a)
  • Nick Duttle Sends 10 New River Gorge 5.14s in One Month
  • Ryan Jennings and Kevin Cooper Climb Major New Route in Alaska
  • Dean Potter Responds to Criticism About Flying with His Dog
  • New Yosemite Classic: First Free Ascent of The Unemployment Line (5.12-)
  • Alex Luger Frees "Psycho" 5.14 Trad Route
  • Mélissa Le Nevé Makes First Female Ascent of Wallstreet (5.14b)
  • Jimmy Webb Sends Jour de Chasse (V15) in 15 minutes
  • Ondra Climbs Two 5.14ds and One 5.15a - Plus Amazing Send Footage
  • Interview: Megos Sends Another 5.14d in Two Hours
  • Q&A: Ethan Pringle Gives Some Love to Jumbo Love (5.15b)
  • Nalle Hukkataival Sends Emotional Landscapes (V15)
  • Ondra Onsights Il Domani (5.14d)
  • Interview: Hukkataival on Bügeleisen Sit: Hardest in the World?
  • Special Report: Enough Misinformation, The Truth of Everest
  • Adam Ondra Climbs Two 5.14d’s While Training for the World Cup
  • Wharton Frees Hallucinogen in A Day
  • A Tribute To Our Brother, Ankaji Sherpa
  • 14-Year-Old Kai Lightner Climbs Lucifer (5.14c)
  • Jimmy Webb Climbs Multiple V15s in Magic Wood, Switzerland
  • Fransico “Novato” Marín Is the Oldest Person in the World to Climb 5.14a
  • Rad Video: Mirko Caballero Climbing Meadowlark Lemon
  • Save Getu Climbing From Destruction
  • Jan Hojer Sends The Story of Two Worlds (V15) and Big Kat (V14)
  • Jonathan Siegrist Establishes 5.14 Testpiece at Quality Arizona Crag
  • Alpine Ascent of the Season: Lindic and Krajnc Free Rolling Stones
  • Shauna Coxsey Climbs Her Second V13 in Albarracín, Spain
  • Video: Rok Klancnik Makes Third Ascent of Bügeleisen (V14/15)
  • Hazel Findlay Becomes the First British Woman to Climb 5.14b
  • Sasha DiGiulian Climbs Red Bull Stadium
  • David Roetzel Solos 15 Pitches of Hard Ice in One Day
  • Ueli Steck's Solo, Slawinsky and Welsted's K6 Ascent Win Piolets d'Or
  • Is Bishop World Class? Niccolò Ceria Says Don’t Believe The Hype
  • Dani Arnold Free Solos 1,100-Foot WI 6 in 27 Minutes!
  • Jimmy Webb Sends The Story of Two Worlds (V15) in Switzerland
  • Mirko Caballero Becomes Youngest Person to Climb V14
  • Katy Whittaker Climbs China Crisis (5.14a)
  • Sean "Stanley" Leary Killed BASE Jumping
  • Red Flag! Help protect access to the Red River Gorge’s most popular crag.
  • American Climbers Crush in Switzerland
  • Stefan Glowacz and Chris Sharma Attempt Massive Oman Cave Route
  • Mark Anderson Makes Third Ascent of Mission Impossible (5.14c/d)
  • Crazy Video: Free-Solo Aerial Dancing
  • Isabelle Faus Climbs the World’s First V12 Trice
  • Barbara Zangerl Sends the Spicy Trad Pitch Prinzip Hoffnung (5.14a)
  • Five Ten Adds Mirko Caballero to their Elite Team
  • VIDEO: Woods and Webb Crush The Nest (V15)
  • The Secret Climb of Chris Sharma and Stefan Glowacz
  • Cool Vid: Dave Graham's Process and Send of Foundation's Edge (V15)
  • Dan Goodwin Sets New World Record for Longest Lead Climb
  • Avalanche Kills Two Climbers in the Caucasus Mountains
  • Nepalese Government To Penalize Everest Climbers Who Leave Trash
  • Final Update: UIAA Ice Climbing World Cup and Olympics
  • Sean O’Neill Becomes First Paraplegic to Climb Bridal Veil Falls
  • Climbing Borders: Non-Profit Uses Climbing to Help At-Risk Youth
  • Piolets d’Or 2014 Nominations Announced
  • Nepal Changes Fees to Climb Everest: But Are They Lower or Higher?
  • Puccio and Woods Each Win Eighth ABS National Titles
  • Charlie Porter Dies
  • Nalle Hukkataival Nabs Third Ascent of Gioia (V16)
  • Ian McNaught-Davis: 1929-2014
  • Will Gadd and Team Make First Ascent of Overhead Hazard (M13+)
  • Woods and Wurm Win 21st Annual Hueco Rock Rodeo
  • Paul Robinson Establishes New V14 in Hueco Tanks
  • Sharma to Chouinard in a Weekend
  • Honnold and Caldwell Complete First Ascent of Fitz Traverse
  • Chad Kellogg Killed in Patagonia
  • Help Protect Eagle Bluff in Clifton, Maine
  • Updated: Magnus Midtbø is STILL Working on Neanderthal (5.15b)
  • Film Review: The Last Great Climb
  • New Multi-Pitch M11 Mixed-Route Goes Up in Ouray, Colorado
  • Jay Renneberg Remembered
  • Update: UIAA Ice Climbing World Cup in Switzerland and France
  • Adam Ondra Nabs Second Ascent of First Round, First Minute (5.15b)
  • Record Conditions for Redstone Winterfest
  • Q&A: Daniel Woods Gets "Obsessed" to Send Lucid Dreaming (V15)
  • Mount Washington Valley Ice Fest Celebrates 21 Years
  • 70-Year-Old Legends Tick Bird Brain Boulevard (IV Wi 5)
  • Help Open Climbing in Hawaii
  • Daniel Woods Sends Lucid Dreaming (V15)
  • Update: Climber Found Unresponsive at Rock Gym and Declared Dead
  • Cardwell and Puccio Win Di'Namik Comp
  • VIDEO: David Lama and Dani Arnold on First Ascent of Moose's Tooth
  • Update: UIAA Ice Climbing World Cup
  • Greg Mortenson Grateful for Allegations
  • Q&A: Honnold Takes A "Step Forward" by Soloing El Sendero Luminoso
  • Honnold Free-Solos the 1,750-Foot El Sendero Luminoso (5.12d)
  • Climbing Friend Accused of Killing Geoff Farrar at Carderock
  • John Long Writing Symposium - 2015 Dates Announced
  • Best In Gear For 2014
  • French Stars Storm Ouray: Mercier and Maureau Win 2014 Mixed Comp
  • VIDEO: Bernd Zangerl's Hardest Problem Yet--V16?
  • Robert Jasper Sends Cutting Edge Mixed Climb: The Black Death
  • Two Killed on Aconcagua
  • VIDEO: Sasha DiGiulian and Edu Marin Send Bellavista (5.14b)
  • 2014 Spitzer Award Winners
  • Roskelley First American Awarded Piolet d’Or Career Award
  • Raw Send Footage of Adam Ondra on New 5.14d First Ascent
  • John Ewbank, 1948-Dec. 2, 2013
  • The Hardest Pitch in Yosemite Goes Down!
  • Mallorca Access Problems for Climbers
  • Paige Claassen Sends India's Hardest Route--Ganesh (5.14)
  • Will Gadd Edged Out at Bozeman UIAA Mixed Comp
  • David Lama Solos New Winter Route in the Alps
  • Webb and Woods Both Send/Downgrade Meadowlark Lemon (V15/14)
  • Jan Hojer Claims V15 First Ascent in Fontainebleau
  • Tommy Caldwell Is Back on the Dawn Wall!
  • Exclusive Dawn Wall Videos: Episodes 3 & 4
  • Interview with Ondra on New 5.15c
  • Ondra Climbs Third 5.15c
  • Watch the Exclusive Dawn Wall Project: Episodes 1 & 2
  • Interview with Ty Landman on the Smiling Buttress FA
  • New Psychological 5.13d Testpiece in the Alps
  • Jimmy Webb Wins La Sportiva Legends Only 2013 Comp
  • Andy Turner Gets Second Ascent Of Powerdab (M13)
  • Muriel Sarkany Becomes Fourth Woman to Redpoint 5.14d
  • Liberty Cap Gets Second FFA of the Year: Scarface (5.12)
  • Q&A: Daniel Woods Defies Gravity
  • How-To's for Gym-Outdoor Transition, Barry Blanchard Memoir and More!
  • Defying Gravity (V15) FA for Daniel Woods
  • Boswell and Bullock Go Big in Canada
  • First Ascent of Unclimbed Peak in the Everest Region, Nepal
  • Building Ethiopia's Potential: Rock Climbing Near Addis Ababa
  • Ryan Vachon Sends M12 Testpiece on Gear
  • Cheyne Lempe Sets New Solo Record on El Cap
  • Gear Guide Contest Winners
  • Jimmy Webb Sends Bridge of Ashes (V15/14) in a Session
  • Updated: Three New Ice Routes on Mt. Evans, Colorado
  • Kevin Jorgeson Is Still Gunning for the Dawn Wall
  • Interview: Daniel Woods on His Hardest Boulder Problem Yet
  • Tommy Caldwell Hurt on the Dawn Wall
  • Jimmy Webb Repeats The Penrose Step (V14)
  • Get power the German way: New training book, new guidebooks and MORE
  • Q&A: Paul Robinson Sends Jaws II (5.15a)
  • Interview: Hazel Findlay Climbs Freerider (5.12d) on El Cap
  • New Ice Route on the Diamond: Window Pain (WI 6+)
  • Ondra Sends Three 5.14d's in One Day
  • Send in your Accident Reports and Win $1000 in Gear
  • Update: Jimmy Webb Flashes Two V12s, One V13 at Leavenworth
  • Interview and Video: Pete Whittaker on the First Ascent of Baron Greenback (5.13d R)
  • Rumney Local Makes Fourth Ascent of Jaws II (5.15a)
  • Traversi Takes Down the Leavenworth Project to Establish The Penrose Step (V14)
  • Graham Makes FA of Foundation's Edge (V15) in Switzerland
  • Woman Paraplegic Climbs El Cap Despite Yosemite's Closure
  • In the Cloud (V12): Hardest Boulder Problem Established by a Woman?
  • Sisu Masters 2013: Finland's Unique Bouldering Competition
  • Megos Makes Easy Work of Kalymnos Climbing Festival
  • Update: New Info on Ueli Steck's 28-Hour Solo of Annapurna's South Face
  • Ueli Steck Summits Annapurna's South Face ... Solo!
  • Sharma to Try New Clark Mountain Project, Possible 5.15+
  • Nick Duttle Sends 5.13 at 14,000 Feet
  • Yosemite Climbers Keep Climbing Despite Shutdown
  • Ashima Shiraishi Makes First Female Ascent of 24 Karats (5.14c) in the Red
  • UPDATED: Rave Reviews and Sleepless Sending at 24 Hours of Horseshoe Hell
  • Chris Sharma to Try Dawn Wall Project on El Cap
  • Q&A: Paige Claassen on Sending One of the Word's Hardest Slabs--Art Attack (5.14b)
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  •  
    Video Spotlight
    GII The way up to the summit (part 2)
    GII The way up to the summit (part 2)

    Q&A: Ethan Pringle Gives Some Love to Jumbo Love (5.15b)

    07-May-2014
    By Ryan Gannaway

    Ethan Pringle. Photo by <a target="_blank" href="http://ladzinski.com/">Keith Ladzinski</a> and featured in the column What I&#39;ve Learned in <em>Rock and Ice</em> issue No. 208.Ethan Pringle spent the spring season in Las Vegas, and took the opportunity to head to Clark Mountain on the Nevada-California border and hop on Chris Sharma’s mega-line, Jumbo Love. At 5.15b, Jumbo Love is probably the hardest sport route in North America and in the past Pringle has linked big sections. In 2007, Pringle, Sharma and Chris Lindner avidly worked on the line. The following year, Sharma asked if he could try to send it and Pringle graciously complied. Sharma completed the first ascent in 2008. The route has yet to see a second ascent.

    Pringle, 27, who hails from San Francisco, has been climbing since childhood. He was the undefeated junior national and international champion from 1998 - 2001 and his rock climbing accomplishments include, in 2004, the first ascent of the landmark Red Rocks boulder problem, Clockwork Orange (V12), and the third ascent of The Wheel of Life—the 60-foot plus V15 in the Grampians, Australia, which Pringle gave a 5.14d route grade. Pringle also pushes the grades on both sport and trad with ascents such as the gear route China Doll (5.14a) in Boulder Canyon and Sonnie Trotter’s Cobra Crack (5.14) in Squamish.

    Pringle also has an affinity for attempting Chris Sharma lines and has repeated Sharma’s benchmark 5.15a Realization in Ceuse, France, and his testpiece, Era Vella (5.14d), in Margalef, Spain. Pringle returned to spend some more time on the route in May of 2012.

    Rock and Ice got in touch with Pringle to talk about Jumbo Love , training and modern sport climbing.

    Q&A:

    RI: You have attempted Jumbo Love in the past. This spring you returned to Clark Mountain to work on it?
    Yes! I’ve been up to Jumbo Love twice in the past couple weeks and hopped on it a few times each trip. My Honda Element doesn’t have the required clearance to make it up the 4WD dirt road to the parking lot. I need a real off-road vehicle!

    RI: What draws you to the route?
    It’s just a hard, long, badass line! It is certainly an impressive route. I know the route is very close to my physical limit, so it’s really inspiring to me. It’s huge and exposed and pretty much as long as you can find—you get to top out the wall!

    RI: Jumbo Love is 250-feet long. What kind of rope gets you to the top?
    I have a sweet 100-meter Maxim Airliner that I can use to get to the top. If I do go to the top though, I have to lower back down to the lip, go in direct to an anchor there, untie, pull the rope and re-tie to get back down to the ground. You'd need 130 or 140-meter rope to lower from the anchors all the way to the ground, I think.

    RI: What do you find mentally challenging about Jumbo Love?
    The route’s length and difficulty is intimidating, and if I’m not feeling in top form when I’m trying it, I feel even smaller and more intimidated next to it, but that’s part of the draw—having to overcome that intimidation.

    RI: What about physically challenging?
    I just need to be more fit and prepared than I am now to give good links on the route, and with a few more days up there, I could get back to my previous highpoint. I can already make decent links on the route, what I need is to be in better shape to put it all together.

    With Jumbo Love it is just as much pure-fitness, muscle-memory and mental-fortitude as it is a problem-solving issue—figuring out the beta. The process of modifying and refining beta is a never-ending one until I send a project.

    RI: What kind of training would it take to send the route?
    An optimal season of preparation for Clark Mountain would go as follows. First, build strength and bouldering power over the winter. Next, train endurance by running and going on long hikes at elevation. Then, train like crazy on plastic, focusing on power-endurance. Finally, get to the route early in the season and start preparing my calluses for the sharp pockets.

    RI: What will it take for the send?
    I think I just need to show up really physically prepared, psyched, with my head in the game … and with a high-clearance car of my own!

    RI: Why do you think Jumbo Love has not seen a second ascent?
    Mostly, because nobody’s even tried it! I’ve put a couple short seasons into it since Chris did it. Then Daniel Woods and Ben Spannuth went and tried it for maybe two weeks a year ago and that’s it! If it were in Europe it would probably get a little more attention.

    Let’s be honest, professional sport climbers are like wild buffalo here in America—we killed them all off by the early 1990s. I’m not saying there aren’t PLENTY of young bucks here in the States who wouldn’t have a good shot on Jumbo Love, but nobody has even bothered to try because it’s not in the Red River Gorge, Rifle, or Movement [climbing gym in Boulder]. It’s 30 minutes up a jacked-up dirt road an hour south of Vegas on I-15, and it takes a little work to get there.

    RI: Why do you think American sport climbers were "killed off?"
    There are still a few left. In the late 1980s and 90s, sport climbing was really popular and growing a ton, and the enthusiasm from professional climbers reflected that. Everyone was wearing lycra, clippin' bolts at Smith Rocks and Rifle and training like machines for all the competitions. I think the rise of bouldering's popularity is partly to blame for the fact that only a few guys in the U.S. put their time and energy mainly into sport climbing. Also, a lot of the talented young climbers in North America these days are trending towards alpine climbing. But in Europe, sport climbing is still widely popular, probably even more so than bouldering, and the community reflects that. Hence there are more “professional” sport climbers.

    RI: As for your other past projects, didn't you get close to repeating Sharma’s Es Pontas in Mallorca, Spain?
    Ethan Pringle on <em>Jumbo Love</em> (5.15b).I tried Es Pontas for a few days way back in September of 2007. There is some footage of me trying it in the movie, “Perfecto.” It is probably 8c+ (5.14c) or 9a (5.14d), maybe harder. I actually heard that somebody didn’t like the fact that I used some crimps to boulder through the dyno that Chris had done, so they lowered down on a rope and bashed them off with a sledge hammer … that was second hand information though, I don’t know if it's actually true. I hope it isn’t.

    RI: It seems like you have been off the map lately?
    I had some family/real-life/not-climbing-related type responsibilities arise in the last year that have required most of my energy and that's OK. It's been necessary and good in a lot of ways to devote my energy to other areas of my life recently. I'm planning my summer and the rest of my year and I'm REALLY PSYCHED on climbing A LOT! It'll be good. Horizons are broadening.

    RI: What does the future hold for you?
    Recently I made a bucket list of climbs and climbing-related goals I want to achieve—none I can share just yet, but a few of them are pretty lofty so, I want to get to WORK!

    Check out this video of Pringle attempting Jumbo Love and the send of his long-standing project at Mount Charleston.

    3 Days With Ethan Pringle from 3 Strings on Vimeo.


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