• Beat the Burnout: Only Ondra Should Train Like Ondra
  • Effective Gym Training Strategies (for Route Climbing)
  • Should You Add Weight or Use Smaller Holds on a Hangboard
  • Map Out a Plan with the Radar System
  • Managing the Fear of Falling
  • Projecting 101 – 6 Tips For Sending
  • Slowing the Pump Clock
  • Training on the Go
  • How to Train for Compression
  • Nutrition: Eating Your Way to Better Climbing
  • How to Dyno
  • General Conditioning for Climbers
  • Transitioning from Gym to Crag
  • How to Keep Your Job and Family and Still Climb at Your Limit
  • Staying Strong to Perform Your Best All Season
  • How to Lose Weight for Climbing
  • Building a Better Climber: Part 7
  • Building a Better Climber: Part 6
  • Building a Better Climber: Final Part
  • Building a Better Climber - The Rock and Ice Training Series
  • Building a Better Climber: Part 5
  • Building a Better Climber: Part 4
  • Building a Better Climber: Part 3
  • Building a Better Climber: Part 2
  • Building a Better Climber: Part 1
  • Gain Confidence by Learning Not to Fear Falling
  • The Unnatural Way to Climb
  • Get Better When You Are Scared and Pumped
  • Never Get Pumped Again
  • Pushing Past Your Training Plateau
  • How to Power Train for Climbing
  • How to Mentally Train
  • Boost Power With Eccentric Training
  • Tips for Better Onsighting
  • Should You Lose Weight or Get Stronger?
  • Is Protein Important?
  • Getting Strong After a Layoff
  • Does Running or Biking Improve Your Climbing?
  • Training While Hungry
  • How To Use Microcycles
  • Improving Slab Technique
  • How to Unlock a Crux
  • Using Your Hangboard the Right Way
  • Using a Weight Belt For Training
  • Training During Pregnancy
  • Maximizing a Small Home Wall
  • How to Stay Psyched
  • How to Prevent Bonking
  • Best Ratio of Resting to Bouldering
  • The Importance of Finger Strength
  • Regaining Confidence After a Fall
  • Overcome Anxiety and Send!
  • Maximum Training in Minimum Time
  • Dynamic vs. Static Stretching
  • Do Forearm Trainers Work?
  • Ultimate Strength
  • The Secrets of Warming Up
  • Periodized Training For the Year-round Approach
  • Resting the Perfect Amount
  • How To Recover On Route
  • Does Creatine Work?
  • Recovery Supplement Truths
  • Euro Training Secrets
  • Can Old Guys Get Stronger?
  • Training With an Injury
  • How to Beat Fear
  • How Often Should You Rest?
  • Warming Up Without Warm-Ups
  • How to Develop Sloper Strength
  • Beating the Lactic Acid Pump
  • Video Spotlight
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    Rock Climbing Training: Euro Training Secrets

    04-Dec-2009
    By

    What do the Euros know that we don't? How did they get so good?

    —Jack Roads | St. George, UT

    We can't lump all Euros together, but in countries like France and Austria, an abundance of training information is being circulated from the National Academies that train the competition teams. This info trickles down to the average gym climber.

    That said, the top Euros don't necessarily possess any secret knowledge, they just actually do the things that so many of us simply sit around and talk about. They write down all the important exercises and routines, and tick every single box, including those that take a little discipline, on a regular basis. It is so easy to sell yourself a comfy version of the training picture that only includes the nice, easy, fun bits. Getting out of bed early on a cold morning to do a cardio and stretching routine doesn't always fit into that version! Neither do boring antagonist exercises that prevent injury, or gym circuits that build endurance. The routes are right in front of you, but setting and completing circuits requires effort and thought -- in a word, discipline.

    Another key component to the Euro approach, if I may generalize, is doing things in the right order to maximize productivity. An example would be starting with a rest phase, then doing general conditioning to develop the fitness to train, then moving on to building a base (mileage sessions on routes and circuits) and finally sharpening up by adding power endurance and power work, all followed by a taper -- reducing the intensity of training in order to peak for the start of a season or a climbing trip. For most climbers, training is a bit hit or miss and we're never really quite sure where we are in our fitness cycle. The penalty for this approach is that you plateau or, worse, get hurt.

    Finally, the Euros have a leg up because climbing is generally practiced at a higher level. In France, nobody would even take notice if you onsighted a 5.13, so higher grades aren't as intimidating as they are in other places. Those of us who start on trad are often taught to be fearful of harder routes, but to improve you need to get on hard sport climbs regularly and get your butt kicked. The Euros understand this and they don't waste time being psyched out by grades. In summary: Be disciplined and aim high -- that's the Euro way.

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