• Building a Better Climber: Part Four
  • Building a Better Climber: Part 3
  • Building a Better Climber: Part 2
  • Building a Better Climber: Part 1
  • Catch of the Day
  • The Unnatural Way to Climb
  • Too Hard for a Caveman
  • Never Get Pumped Again
  • Should You Add Weight or Use Smaller Holds on a Hangboard
  • Injured? Train Your Core!
  • Cheap Tricks
  • How to Mentally Train
  • How to Power Train for Climbing
  • Boost Power With Eccentric Training
  • Tips for Better Onsighting
  • Should You Lose Weight or Get Stronger?
  • Does Running or Biking Improve Your Climbing?
  • Is Protein Important?
  • Getting Strong After a Layoff
  • Training While Hungry
  • HowTo Use Microcycles
  • Improving Slab Technique
  • How to Unlock a Crux
  • Best Ratio of Resting to Bouldering
  • Training During Pregnancy
  • Using Your Hangboard the Right Way
  • Maximizing a Small Home Wall
  • How to Stay Psyched
  • How to Prevent Bonking
  • Using a Weight Belt For Training
  • Regaining Confidence After a Fall
  • Dynamic vs. Static Stretching
  • Overcome Anxiety and Send!
  • The Importance of Finger Strength
  • Do Forearm Trainers Work?
  • Maximum Training in Minimum Time
  • Dialing in Crampon Technique
  • Ultimate Strength
  • Periodized Training For the Year-round Approach
  • The Secrets of Warming Up
  • Beat the Ice-Climbing Pump
  • Resting the Perfect Amount
  • How To Recover On Route
  • Does Creatine Work?
  • Can Old Guys Get Stronger?
  • Recovery Supplement Truths
  • Euro Training Secrets
  • How to Beat Fear
  • How Often Should You Rest?
  • Training With an Injury
  • Avoiding the Gear-Placement Pump
  • How to Develop Sloper Strength
  • Warming Up Without Warm-Ups
  • Beating the Lactic Acid Pump
  • Video Spotlight
    EMILY DUDLEY _ FAs in RED FEATHER, CO
    EMILY DUDLEY _ FAs in RED FEATHER, CO

    Euro Training Secrets

    04-Dec-2009
    By

    What do the Euros know that we don't? How did they get so good?

    —Jack Roads | St. George, UT

    We can't lump all Euros together, but in countries like France and Austria, an abundance of training information is being circulated from the National Academies that train the competition teams. This info trickles down to the average gym climber.

    That said, the top Euros don't necessarily possess any secret knowledge, they just actually do the things that so many of us simply sit around and talk about. They write down all the important exercises and routines, and tick every single box, including those that take a little discipline, on a regular basis. It is so easy to sell yourself a comfy version of the training picture that only includes the nice, easy, fun bits. Getting out of bed early on a cold morning to do a cardio and stretching routine doesn't always fit into that version! Neither do boring antagonist exercises that prevent injury, or gym circuits that build endurance. The routes are right in front of you, but setting and completing circuits requires effort and thought -- in a word, discipline.

    Another key component to the Euro approach, if I may generalize, is doing things in the right order to maximize productivity. An example would be starting with a rest phase, then doing general conditioning to develop the fitness to train, then moving on to building a base (mileage sessions on routes and circuits) and finally sharpening up by adding power endurance and power work, all followed by a taper -- reducing the intensity of training in order to peak for the start of a season or a climbing trip. For most climbers, training is a bit hit or miss and we're never really quite sure where we are in our fitness cycle. The penalty for this approach is that you plateau or, worse, get hurt.

    Finally, the Euros have a leg up because climbing is generally practiced at a higher level. In France, nobody would even take notice if you onsighted a 5.13, so higher grades aren't as intimidating as they are in other places. Those of us who start on trad are often taught to be fearful of harder routes, but to improve you need to get on hard sport climbs regularly and get your butt kicked. The Euros understand this and they don't waste time being psyched out by grades. In summary: Be disciplined and aim high -- that's the Euro way.

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