Body

  • Rock Climbing Injury: Broken Hand
  • Rock Climbing Injury: Hydrocele, Spermatocele and Strained Groin
  • Rock Climbing Injury: Hand: Arthritis
  • Rock Climbing Injury: NSAIDS: To Use or Not to Use
  • Rock Climbing Injury: Open-Heart Surgery
  • Rock Climbing Injury: Osteopenia and Increasing Bone Density
  • Rock Climbing Injury: Body: Pain Meds vs Sex
  • Rock Climbing Injury: Appendectomy and Climbing Training
  • Rock Climbing Injury: Body: Injury Truths
  • Rock Climbing Injury: Body: BPA and Waterbottles
  • Rock Climbing Injury: Body: Bouldering for Bone Density
  • Rock Climbing Injury: Body: Chronic Injury
  • Rock Climbing Injury: Body: Bouldering for the Bones
  • Rock Climbing Injury: Body: Antibiotics and Tendon Damage
  • Back

  • Rock Climbing Injury: Lumbar Bone Spurs
  • Rock Climbing Injury: Back: Spinal Fracture
  • Back: Preventing Hunchback
  • Back: Herniated Disc
  • Abdomen

  • Rock Climbing Injury: Abdomen: Muscle Tear/Hernia
  • Arm

    No items found.

    Shoulder

  • Rock climbing Injury: Shoulder Pain
  • Rock Climbing Injury: Thoracic Musculature Tightness
  • Rock Climbing Injury: Chronic Posterior Shoulder Pain
  • Rock Climbing Injury: Chronic Shoulder Pain
  • Rock Climbing Injury: Supraspinatus and Labral Tears
  • Rock Climbing Injury: Shoulder Pain
  • Rock Climbing Injury: Shoulder Replacement
  • Rock Climbing Injury: Exploding Shoulder
  • Rock Climbing Injury: Shoulder: Thoracic Outlet Syndrome
  • Rock Climbing Injury: Shoulder: SLAP Lesion and Cortisone
  • Rock Climbing Injury: Shoulder: Frozen Shoulder
  • Rock Climbing Injury: Shoulder: Torn Labrum, SLAP Lesion
  • Rock Climbing Injury: Shoulder: Separation
  • Rock Climbing Injury: Shoulder: Pain and Virus
  • Biceps

  • Rock Climbing Injury: Bursting Biceps
  • Elbow

  • Rock Climbing Injury: Golfer's Elbow
  • Rock Climbing Injury: Elbow: Brachioradialis Pain
  • Rock Climbing Injury: Tennis Elbow
  • Rock Climbing Injury: Medial Epicondylosis Tendonitis
  • Rock Climbing Injury: Dodgy Elbows Revisited
  • Rock Climbing Injury: Synovial Chips
  • Rock Climbing Injury: Quack Elbow Treatments to Avoid
  • Rock Climbing Injury: Do Compression Sleeves Work?
  • Rock Climbing Injury: Elbow: Tennis Elbow
  • Rock Climbing Injury: Elbow: Medial Tendonosis
  • Rock Climbing Injury: Elbow: Elbow Pain and Dodgy Elbows
  • Rock Climbing Injury: Elbow: Tendonosis
  • Rock Climbing Injury: Elbow: Medial Epicondylosis and Taping
  • Rock Climbing Injury: Elbow: Tingling and Numbness
  • Rock Climbing Injury: Elbows: Minimizing Fingerboard Injuries
  • Rock Climbing Injury: Elbow: Medial Epicondyle Tendonosis
  • Rock Climbing Injury: Elbow: Stress Fracture
  • Rock Climbing Injury: Elbow: Pain and Hangboarding
  • Wrist

  • Rock Climbing Injury: TFCC Tear
  • Rock Climbing Injury: Wrist: Klienbock's Disease
  • Rock Climbing Injury: Wrist: Ruptured Tendon
  • Rock Climbing Injury: Snap, Crackle, Wrist
  • Rock Climbing Injury: Wrist: Fractured Scaphoid
  • Rock Climbing Injury: Wrist: Instability
  • Hand

  • Rock Climbing Injury: Broken Hand
  • Rock Climbing Injury: Left Hand: Hook of the Hamate Fracture
  • Rock Climbing Injury: Fingers: Everything You Need to Know About Finger Stress
  • Rock Climbing Injury: Hands: Dupuytren's Disease (lump in palm)
  • Rock Climbing Injury: Hands: Numbness and Carpal Tunnel Syndrome
  • Fingers

  • Rock Climbing Injury: Avulsion Fracture
  • Rock Climbing Injury: Pinky Numbness
  • Rock Climbing Injury: Swollen Right Index Finger
  • Rock Climbing Injury: Finger Numbness
  • Rock Climbing Injury: Alternative to Pulley Taping
  • Rock Climbing Injury: Hand: Arthritis
  • Rock Climbing Injury: Fourth Metacarpal Break
  • Rock Climbing Injury: First Pulley Strain
  • Rock Climbing Injury: Freezing Fingers Today, Benefit Tomorrow?
  • Rock Climbing Injury: Cysts in Fingers
  • Rock Climbing Injury: Ruptured Finger Pulley
  • Rock Climbing Injury: Fingers: What To Do with a Ruptured Flexor Digitorum Superficialis
  • Rock Climbing Injury: Fingers: Everything You Need to Know About Finger Stress
  • Rock Climbing Injury: Fingers: Hyper-extended
  • Rock Climbing Injury: Fingers: Cysts and Pain
  • Rock Climbing Injury: Fingers: Cracked Fingertips
  • Rock Climbing Injury: Fingers: De Quervain's Tenosynovitis
  • Rock Climbing Injury: Fingers: NSAID Treatment
  • Rock Climbing Injury: Fingers: Torn A2 Pulley
  • Rock Climbing Injury: Fingers: Trigger Thumb Syndrome
  • Rock Climbing Injury: Fingers: Stiffness, Soreness
  • Rock Climbing Injury: Fingers: Grip Position and Injury
  • Rock Climbing Injury: Fingers: Pinky Finger Pain
  • Rock Climbing Injury: Fingers: Electrostimulation
  • Rock Climbing Injury:Fingers: Cortisone for Tendon Injuries
  • Rock Climbing Injury: Hands: Numbness and Carpal Tunnel Syndrome
  • Rock Climbing Injury: Fingers: Taping Truths
  • Rock Climbing Injury: Fingers: Flappers
  • Rock Climbing Injury: Fingers: Trigger-Finger Syndrome
  • Rock Climbing Injury: Fingers: Torn A3 and A4 Pulleys
  • Rock Climbing Injury: Fingers: Cysts
  • Rock Climbing Injury: Fingers: Arthritis
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  • Rock Climbing Injury: Fingers: Blown Tendons
  • Leg

  • Rock Climbing Injury: Leg: Achilles Tendonitis
  • Rock Climbing Injury: Leg and Knee: Broken Femur and Shattered Kneecap
  • Rock Climbing Injury: Leg: Pulled Hamstring
  • Rock Climbing Injury: Leg: Fracture
  • Knee

  • Rock Climbing Injury: Blown Knees
  • Rock Climbing Injury: MCL Injury
  • Rock Climbing Injury: Outside Knee Pain: Tibiofibular Joint
  • Rock Climbing Injury: Knee Tendonitis after Ankle Fusion
  • Rock Climbing Injury: Meniscal Tear on a Drop Knee
  • Rock Climbing Injury: Knee: Rockfall Causes Lump
  • Rock Climbing Injury: Knee: Chondral Injury of the Lateral Tibial Plateau
  • Rock Climbing Injury: Leg and Knee: Broken Femur and Shattered Kneecap
  • Rock Climbing Injury: Knee: Ruptured ACL
  • Rock Climbing Injury: Knee: Ruptured Ligament and Meniscus
  • Rock Climbing Injury: Knee: Synovial Cartilage Damage
  • Ankle

  • Rock Climbing Injury: Osteochondral Talus Fracture
  • Rock Climbing Injury: Knee Tendonitis after Ankle Fusion
  • Rock Climbing Injury: Snapped ankle tendon
  • Rock Climbing Injury: Possible Death of the Talus Bone
  • Rock Climbing Injury: Broken Talus Bone
  • America's Best Climbing Area: Red River Gorge
  • Rock Climbing Injury: Ankle: Loud Pop Ankle Roll
  • Feet

  • Rock Climbing Injury: Bunions
  • Ice Climbing Injury: Toenail Pressure
  • Rock Climbing Injury: Feet: Broken Foot
  • Rock Climbing Injury: Feet: Gout and Pseudogout
  • Rock Climbing Injury: Feet: Toe Fracture
  •  
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    Rock Climbing Injury: Fingers: Grip Position and Injury

    02-Feb-2010
    By

    Today when bouldering, I went up for a two-finger crimp with the middle and ring finger of my left hand. I'm pretty sure I heard the tiniest pop, then my ring finger went out and I felt pain in very specific spots: A) mild discomfort between the knuckle at the base of the ring finger, and the next knuckle up the finger, B) pain in the palm and C), for the first hour or so there was pain about midway down the forearm that I actually can't duplicate right now.

    Alex | rockandice.com Forum

    I have been documenting this injury for many years and really, I should get off my lazy ass and do some research into what exactly is torn.

    The mechanism is virtually always a training condition known as hyperzealopathy, whereby the climber is unable to recognize imminent injury. The two most common situations are carrying your over-laden shopping bags with one finger or pulling on a hold with one (or two) fingers with the little and/or ring finger tightly curled into the palm.

    SHIZZLE! Not only did it F#%* hurt, but now you can't get it to hurt again. Wassup with that? It won't hurt unless you replicate the tightly curled finger. Try the Dr J Test described in Ask Dr. J issue 172 (archived at www.drjuliansaunders.com.)

    I recently saw a research paper written by a less lazy practitioner who suggested the pain might be arising from a tear at the insertion of one of a group of small muscles in your palm called lumbricals. Unlike other muscles they attach to corresponding tendons that control flexion and extension of the fingers (rather than two bones). These are subject to severe elongation forces when adjacent fingers are loaded at opposing lengths.

    As you have noted, there is pain in several spots. Your presentation is the stock standard. Being in multiple sites, the pain pattern makes definitive diagnosis a nightmare. I have always assumed the tear to be in the forearm where the flexor tendons come together and attach to the primary flexor muscle, flexor digitorum profundis, and the palm pain was referral. Gosh damn! I am not the repository of all medical wisdom -- it could be the other way around or even involve both sites.

    Frivolous details like location need not impede management. You can pretty much climb as hard as you want if you follow one simple rule: don't split your fingers. Can't control your middle finger? Give them the relaxed bird. The half-crimp, where the middle two fingers are crimping and the corresponding fingers are technically open handing, can also be tetchy. This creates a minor shearing and, depending on the severity of injury, may be aggravating. If you are open-handing and your little finger is not long enough to be on the hold, then be sure not to curl it into your palm. Same with crimping if any fingers can't fit on the edge. Try and stack them under or on top of neighboring fingers. Though a little tricksome, it is better than laying off completely and focusing on your belay technique!

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  • Rock Climbing Injury: Alternative to Pulley Taping
  • Rock Climbing Injury: Hand: Arthritis
  • Rock Climbing Injury: Fourth Metacarpal Break
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  • Rock Climbing Injury: Fingers: Pinky Finger Pain
  • Rock Climbing Injury: Fingers: Electrostimulation
  • Rock Climbing Injury:Fingers: Cortisone for Tendon Injuries
  • Rock Climbing Injury: Hands: Numbness and Carpal Tunnel Syndrome
  • Rock Climbing Injury: Fingers: Taping Truths
  • Rock Climbing Injury: Fingers: Flappers
  • Rock Climbing Injury: Fingers: Trigger-Finger Syndrome
  • Rock Climbing Injury: Fingers: Torn A3 and A4 Pulleys
  • Rock Climbing Injury: Fingers: Cysts
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