The Djinn Axess Quickdraw (the D is silent) is Petzl's new "beginner's" quickdraw. But I'd argue that Petzl got it wrong. The Djinn Axess is not only great for beginners, but the draw fills the bill for seasoned sport climbers looking for an inexpensive quickdraw that works as well as the best. Performance-wise the Djinn is strikingly similar to Petzl's top-tier draw—the Spirit Express—which I consider the Cadillac of quickdraws. The Djinn carabiner gate openings are slightly larger than the Spirits, which I actually prefer. That said, the Djinns are slightly heavier than the Spirits—a 12-inch Djinn draw weighs 107 grams compared to the 93 grams of the same size Spirit. However, the Djinn trumps the Spirit in one very important category: cost. Spending $16.95 for a 12-inch Djinn compared to $21.95 for the comparable Spirit will hook me every time.
About the Rating:Though marketed as an introductory piece of gear, I was pleased to find that the Djinn is one of the best sport-climbing quickdraws. The only noticeable differences between the Djinn and the Spirit are 14 grams and five bucks.
Carabiner Strength: 4,950 lbs.
107 grams for 12-inch length / 113 grams for 17-inch length
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