• Rock Climbing Training: How to Keep Your Job and Family and Still Climb at Your Limit
  • Rock Climbing Training: Map Out a Plan with the Radar System
  • Rock Climbing Training: How to Train for Compression
  • Rock Climbing Training: General Conditioning for Climbers
  • Rock Climbing Training: How to Dyno
  • Rock Climbing Training: Transitioning from the Gym to the Crag
  • Rock Climbing Training: Building a Better Climber: Part 8
  • Rock Climbing Training: Building a Better Climber: Part 7
  • Rock Climbing Training: Building a Better Climber: Part 6
  • Rock Climbing Training: Building a Better Climber: Part 5
  • Steve House Climbing Training: The Training Effect
  • Rock Climbing Training: Building a Better Climber: Part 4
  • Rock Climbing Training: Building a Better Climber: Part 3
  • Rock Climbing Training: Building a Better Climber: Part 2
  • Rock Climbing Training: Building a Better Climber: Part 1
  • Rock Climbing Nutrition: Eating Your Way to Better Climbing
  • Rock Climbing Training: Gain Confidence by Learning Not to Fear Falling
  • Rock Climbing Training: The Unnatural Way to Climb
  • Rock Climbing Training: Get Better When You Are Scared and Pumped
  • Rock Climbing Training: Never Get Pumped Again
  • Rock Climbing Nutrition: Power Your Climbing With Whole Foods
  • Rock Climbing Training: Should You Add Weight or Use Smaller Holds on a Hangboard
  • Training for Climbing: Injured? Train Your Core!
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  • Rock Climbing Nutrition: Anti-inflammatory Foods vs NSAIDS
  • Rock Climbing Training: How to Mentally Train
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  • Rock Climbing Training: Tips for Better Onsighting
  • Rock Climbing Training: Should You Lose Weight or Get Stronger?
  • Rock Climbing Training: Does Running or Biking Improve Your Climbing?
  • Rock Climbing Training: Is Protein Important?
  • Rock Climbing Training: Getting Strong After a Layoff
  • Rock Climbing Training: Training While Hungry
  • Rock Climbing Training: HowTo Use Microcycles
  • Rock Climbing Training: Improving Slab Technique
  • Rock Climbing Training: How to Unlock a Crux
  • Rock Climbing Training: Best Ratio of Resting to Bouldering
  • Rock Climbing Training: Training During Pregnancy
  • Rock Climbing Training: Using Your Hangboard the Right Way
  • Rock Climbing Training: Maximizing a Small Home Wall
  • Rock Climbing Training: How to Stay Psyched
  • Rock Climbing Training: How to Prevent Bonking
  • Rock Climbing Training: Using a Weight Belt For Training
  • Rock Climbing Training: Regaining Confidence After a Fall
  • Rock Climbing Training: Dynamic vs. Static Stretching
  • Rock Climbing Training: Overcome Anxiety and Send!
  • Rock Climbing Training: The Importance of Finger Strength
  • Rock Climbing Training: Do Forearm Trainers Work?
  • Rock Climbing Training: Maximum Training in Minimum Time
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  • Rock Climbing Training: Ultimate Strength
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  • Rock Climbing Training: The Secrets of Warming Up
  • Climbing Training: Beat the Ice-Climbing Pump
  • Rock Climbing Training: Resting the Perfect Amount
  • Rock Climbing Training: How To Recover On Route
  • Rock Climbing Training: Does Creatine Work?
  • Rock Climbing Training: Can Old Guys Get Stronger?
  • Rock Climbing Training: Recovery Supplement Truths
  • Rock Climbing Training: Euro Training Secrets
  • Rock Climbing Training: How to Beat Fear
  • Rock Climbing Training: How Often Should You Rest?
  • Rock Climbing Training: Training With an Injury
  • Rock Climbing Training: Avoiding the Gear-Placement Pump
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  • Video Spotlight
    Create or Else: Chongo
    Create or Else: Chongo

    Rock Climbing Training: How to Stay Psyched

    02-Feb-2010
    By

    How can I stay psyched? I bore easily and have been climbing in the same area for 10 years. Since I'm a new dad I can't road trip often.

    —Eric Patrick | Austin, TX

    Forgive me, but at first I threw this question out of court. Surely it is a coach's task to help people who are psyched. If you can't be bothered to get to the crag or the wall, then it's one less person taking up my parking space or greasing the holds. But as I clicked delete and moved onto the next question I found myself feeling guilty. I am permanently psyched for climbing, but it doesn't mean that others are as fortunate. Perhaps it is part of a coach's job to examine motivation and attempt to pass it on.

    So what drives me forward at times when my training is going backwards? It is blissfully simple, really. I can't think of anything better or more meaningful in life than climbing, I simply can't! If I surrender and hit the couch I feel like a loser, but worse, bored. To me, it is incomprehensible that you could feel bored while climbing, and if this is the case then you need to do as follows:

    Set some goals. Write them down. Training without goals is like coffee without caffeine—pointless. Your goals should be long term and crag-related, such as sending your first 5.12a next season, and also short and mid-term and training related, such as performing 10 laps on a 5.11c with 10 minutes rest. Or cranking four V5s in one session.

    Vary your sessions. A bit of training structure adds spice and direction. For example, for endurance, rather than doing single routes, try going up, down climb, then go back up. Or do double sets, where you lower off and then climb again straight away. Or, better still, try using the bouldering wall for circuits (long, easy boulder problems that are sustained with no rests or cruxes). Use an interval structure to guide you (e.g.: a 20 move problem x 10 repetitions with 8 minutes rest, or 30 moves x 8 with 10 minutes rest or 40 moves x 6 with 12 minutes rest). For power, try some system or finger boarding, and/or bar exercises and floor exercises for body tension. Don't forget to stretch on the mats while resting between attempts. This way you will always have something to focus on rather than staring around and thinking, What next?

    Vary your climbing. I appreciate that your local cliff won't change, but contrive some challenges for yourself. Can you redpoint all the routes in one sector in a day? How many pitches can you complete? How long can you stay on the rock? Eliminates can be useful as they effectively create new problems. Can you do the classic V3 at your home bouldering area without the biggest hold? Long term you need road trips. I realize also that this is tough if you have children or an all-consuming job, but even if you only have a week or two away a year, train for this break. For those less affected by outside pressures who still find it tough to get psyched, the key is to switch styles from sport, to trad, to bouldering and perhaps even ice. If you're stagnating, try something new.

    Neil Gresham is one of Britain's best-known all-round climbers. His website is: www.climbingmasterclass.com.

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