• Rock Climbing Training: How to Keep Your Job and Family and Still Climb at Your Limit
  • Rock Climbing Training: Map Out a Plan with the Radar System
  • Rock Climbing Training: How to Train for Compression
  • Rock Climbing Training: General Conditioning for Climbers
  • Rock Climbing Training: How to Dyno
  • Rock Climbing Training: Transitioning from the Gym to the Crag
  • Rock Climbing Training: Building a Better Climber: Part 8
  • Rock Climbing Training: Building a Better Climber: Part 7
  • Rock Climbing Training: Building a Better Climber: Part 6
  • Rock Climbing Training: Building a Better Climber: Part 5
  • Steve House Climbing Training: The Training Effect
  • Rock Climbing Training: Building a Better Climber: Part 4
  • Rock Climbing Training: Building a Better Climber: Part 3
  • Rock Climbing Training: Building a Better Climber: Part 2
  • Rock Climbing Training: Building a Better Climber: Part 1
  • Rock Climbing Nutrition: Eating Your Way to Better Climbing
  • Rock Climbing Training: Gain Confidence by Learning Not to Fear Falling
  • Rock Climbing Training: The Unnatural Way to Climb
  • Rock Climbing Training: Get Better When You Are Scared and Pumped
  • Rock Climbing Training: Never Get Pumped Again
  • Rock Climbing Nutrition: Power Your Climbing With Whole Foods
  • Rock Climbing Training: Should You Add Weight or Use Smaller Holds on a Hangboard
  • Training for Climbing: Injured? Train Your Core!
  • Rock Climbing Training: Pushing Past Your Training Plateau
  • Rock Climbing Nutrition: Anti-inflammatory Foods vs NSAIDS
  • Rock Climbing Training: How to Mentally Train
  • Rock Climbing Training: How to Power Train for Climbing
  • Rock Climbing Training: Boost Power With Eccentric Training
  • Rock Climbing Training: Tips for Better Onsighting
  • Rock Climbing Training: Should You Lose Weight or Get Stronger?
  • Rock Climbing Training: Does Running or Biking Improve Your Climbing?
  • Rock Climbing Training: Is Protein Important?
  • Rock Climbing Training: Getting Strong After a Layoff
  • Rock Climbing Training: Training While Hungry
  • Rock Climbing Training: HowTo Use Microcycles
  • Rock Climbing Training: Improving Slab Technique
  • Rock Climbing Training: How to Unlock a Crux
  • Rock Climbing Training: Best Ratio of Resting to Bouldering
  • Rock Climbing Training: Training During Pregnancy
  • Rock Climbing Training: Using Your Hangboard the Right Way
  • Rock Climbing Training: Maximizing a Small Home Wall
  • Rock Climbing Training: How to Stay Psyched
  • Rock Climbing Training: How to Prevent Bonking
  • Rock Climbing Training: Using a Weight Belt For Training
  • Rock Climbing Training: Regaining Confidence After a Fall
  • Rock Climbing Training: Dynamic vs. Static Stretching
  • Rock Climbing Training: Overcome Anxiety and Send!
  • Rock Climbing Training: The Importance of Finger Strength
  • Rock Climbing Training: Do Forearm Trainers Work?
  • Rock Climbing Training: Maximum Training in Minimum Time
  • Dialing in Crampon Technique
  • Rock Climbing Training: Ultimate Strength
  • Rock Climbing Training: Periodized Training For the Year-round Approach
  • Rock Climbing Training: The Secrets of Warming Up
  • Climbing Training: Beat the Ice-Climbing Pump
  • Rock Climbing Training: Resting the Perfect Amount
  • Rock Climbing Training: How To Recover On Route
  • Rock Climbing Training: Does Creatine Work?
  • Rock Climbing Training: Can Old Guys Get Stronger?
  • Rock Climbing Training: Recovery Supplement Truths
  • Rock Climbing Training: Euro Training Secrets
  • Rock Climbing Training: How to Beat Fear
  • Rock Climbing Training: How Often Should You Rest?
  • Rock Climbing Training: Training With an Injury
  • Rock Climbing Training: Avoiding the Gear-Placement Pump
  • Rock Climbing Training: How to Develop Sloper Strength
  • Rock Climbing Training: Warming Up Without Warm-Ups
  • Rock Climbing Training: Beating the Lactic Acid Pump
  • Video Spotlight
    Tsunami 5.12c (7b)
    Tsunami 5.12c (7b)

    Rock Climbing Training: Beating the Lactic Acid Pump

    20-Oct-2009
    By

    After lowering off a very pumpy climb, can I speed my recovery by running or doing pushups? I heard that light aerobic exercise immediately following a climb helps flush lactic acid out of the forearms by pumping blood through the body. I guess the lactic acid dilutes, and spreads to the larger muscle groups so that it is more easily broken down. If this is true, should I run after doing a hard enduro pitch, and if so, for how long?

    —Jack Rhodes, Somers, NY

    You are pretty much right about the theory here, but go easy. A strenuous bout of exercise is far from conducive to recovery, and two or three minutes of light jogging will more than suffice. Pushups seem too much like hard work and instead I would suggest shoulder circles and finger clenches. The best thing is a very easy route because it gently stimulates the target muscle groups and encourages local blood flow to flush lactate. It also stops you from stiffening up and losing recruitment during longer rest stints. An example of the right grade would be a 5.10 if you are climbing in the 5.12s or a 5.7 if you climb in the 5.10s. Forearm stretches are very worthwhile during rests (do both sides: flexors by bending your hand back and extensors by bending it forward or twisting it). A final tip is to take a forearm massage if there's one on offer -- but don't hold your breath!

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