• Rock Climbing Training: How to Keep Your Job and Family and Still Climb at Your Limit
  • Rock Climbing Training: Map Out a Plan with the Radar System
  • Rock Climbing Training: How to Train for Compression
  • Rock Climbing Training: General Conditioning for Climbers
  • Rock Climbing Training: How to Dyno
  • Rock Climbing Training: Transitioning from the Gym to the Crag
  • Rock Climbing Training: Building a Better Climber: Part 8
  • Rock Climbing Training: Building a Better Climber: Part 7
  • Rock Climbing Training: Building a Better Climber: Part 6
  • Rock Climbing Training: Building a Better Climber: Part 5
  • Steve House Climbing Training: The Training Effect
  • Rock Climbing Training: Building a Better Climber: Part 4
  • Rock Climbing Training: Building a Better Climber: Part 3
  • Rock Climbing Training: Building a Better Climber: Part 2
  • Rock Climbing Training: Building a Better Climber: Part 1
  • Rock Climbing Nutrition: Eating Your Way to Better Climbing
  • Rock Climbing Training: Gain Confidence by Learning Not to Fear Falling
  • Rock Climbing Training: The Unnatural Way to Climb
  • Rock Climbing Training: Get Better When You Are Scared and Pumped
  • Rock Climbing Training: Never Get Pumped Again
  • Rock Climbing Nutrition: Power Your Climbing With Whole Foods
  • Rock Climbing Training: Should You Add Weight or Use Smaller Holds on a Hangboard
  • Training for Climbing: Injured? Train Your Core!
  • Rock Climbing Training: Pushing Past Your Training Plateau
  • Rock Climbing Nutrition: Anti-inflammatory Foods vs NSAIDS
  • Rock Climbing Training: How to Mentally Train
  • Rock Climbing Training: How to Power Train for Climbing
  • Rock Climbing Training: Boost Power With Eccentric Training
  • Rock Climbing Training: Tips for Better Onsighting
  • Rock Climbing Training: Should You Lose Weight or Get Stronger?
  • Rock Climbing Training: Does Running or Biking Improve Your Climbing?
  • Rock Climbing Training: Is Protein Important?
  • Rock Climbing Training: Getting Strong After a Layoff
  • Rock Climbing Training: Training While Hungry
  • Rock Climbing Training: HowTo Use Microcycles
  • Rock Climbing Training: Improving Slab Technique
  • Rock Climbing Training: How to Unlock a Crux
  • Rock Climbing Training: Best Ratio of Resting to Bouldering
  • Rock Climbing Training: Training During Pregnancy
  • Rock Climbing Training: Using Your Hangboard the Right Way
  • Rock Climbing Training: Maximizing a Small Home Wall
  • Rock Climbing Training: How to Stay Psyched
  • Rock Climbing Training: How to Prevent Bonking
  • Rock Climbing Training: Using a Weight Belt For Training
  • Rock Climbing Training: Regaining Confidence After a Fall
  • Rock Climbing Training: Dynamic vs. Static Stretching
  • Rock Climbing Training: Overcome Anxiety and Send!
  • Rock Climbing Training: The Importance of Finger Strength
  • Rock Climbing Training: Do Forearm Trainers Work?
  • Rock Climbing Training: Maximum Training in Minimum Time
  • Dialing in Crampon Technique
  • Rock Climbing Training: Ultimate Strength
  • Rock Climbing Training: Periodized Training For the Year-round Approach
  • Rock Climbing Training: The Secrets of Warming Up
  • Climbing Training: Beat the Ice-Climbing Pump
  • Rock Climbing Training: Resting the Perfect Amount
  • Rock Climbing Training: How To Recover On Route
  • Rock Climbing Training: Does Creatine Work?
  • Rock Climbing Training: Can Old Guys Get Stronger?
  • Rock Climbing Training: Recovery Supplement Truths
  • Rock Climbing Training: Euro Training Secrets
  • Rock Climbing Training: How to Beat Fear
  • Rock Climbing Training: How Often Should You Rest?
  • Rock Climbing Training: Training With an Injury
  • Rock Climbing Training: Avoiding the Gear-Placement Pump
  • Rock Climbing Training: How to Develop Sloper Strength
  • Rock Climbing Training: Warming Up Without Warm-Ups
  • Rock Climbing Training: Beating the Lactic Acid Pump
  • Video Spotlight
    Connecticut Bouldering
    Connecticut Bouldering

    Rock Climbing Training: Recovery Supplement Truths

    04-Dec-2009
    By

    What do you think about drinking recovery supplements, such as whey protein or glutamine, throughout a day of cragging? We're told it's best to drink those after exercise, but it seems to me that the slow drip is more suited to a sport with short, powerful 15- to 30-minute bursts (aka a pitch) every hour or so over the course of an eight-hour day. I've been experimenting with a climbers' cocktail my friend (who invented it) calls Whey-Gay, which is a mix of whey protein and Gatorade powder in a liter of water. I definitely feel more recovered between burns, but I'm wondering if that's just all in my head (it's hard to tell with so many shouting, angry voices in there).

    —Jim Jones, Salt Lake City, UT

    I'D BE WARY OF MAKING cocktails with sports nutritional products. Better and safer to get the stuff that's been properly blended and tested. The voices might go away, too!

    Sipping a carbohydrate-based drink during prolonged endurance-based activities will improve performance. During exercise, the body absorbs fluids better than solids and a carb-based sports drink will satisfy the priority of hydration as well as keeping levels of muscular glycogen as high as possible. An additional benefit to be obtained from carbohydrates, whether mid- or post-exercise, is the increase of insulin levels, which are vital for recovery, and also a reduction of the hormone cortisol, which can increase the effects of stress during exercise. Second, recovery drinks that contain a mix of carbohydrates and protein (usually a 2:1 or 3:1 ratio) are widely regarded as excellent for post-exercise recovery. The protein element evidently assists with muscle repair, and the carbohydrates provide the energy. You could wait until your next meal but you will seriously miss out on your full recovery potential if you wait longer than an hour. The studies all point to the notion that getting one of these drinks straight down the hatch right after training is very wise.

    Whether you need the protein component during exercise is not as well researched. However, one study on the subject was made by the Allied Health Sciences Center, Springfield College in 2001. Full details can be found online in the Journal of Exercise Physiology, Volume 4 No. 1, January edition. The study concluded that a carbohydrate-protein drink following glycogen-depleting exercise may facilitate a greater rate of muscle glycogen resynthesis than a carbohydrate-only beverage, hasten the recovery process, and improve exercise endurance during a second bout of exercise performed on the same day. The advice seems to be that energy/recovery drinks taken during exercise won't do you any harm and they may well do you some good.

    Neil Gresham is one of the world's premier climbing coaches. He has climbed 5.14a sport, E10 trad and M10 mixed. Log on to the forums at rockandice.com to ask Coach Gresham your training questions.

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