• Tom Ballard Establishes World’s Hardest Dry Tooling Route
  • Tim Emmett, Klemen Preml Establish 260-Foot WI 12 at Helmcken Falls
  • Jimmy Webb Sends The Big Island (V15), Toupie Carnivore assis (V14)
  • Kevin Lopata Sends Jour de Chasse (V15), Fontainebleau (with video)
  • Rocasolano Makes Second Ascent of Catalan Witness the Fitness (V15)
  • VIDEO: Jonathan Siegrist Sends Power Inverter (5.15a)
  • Black Diamond Recalls Carabiners, Quickdraws and Slings
  • Jimmy Webb Sends l’Alchemiste In Three Tries – Downgrades
  • Brette Harrington Free Solos Austríaca in Patagonia
  • Nathaniel Coleman, Megan Mascarenas Win 2016 Bouldering Nationals
  • Marianne van der Steen Flashes Kamasutra (D13+)
  • Alex Honnold and Colin Haley Repeat the Torre Traverse in a Day
  • Barefoot Climber First to Repeat Original l’Alchimiste (~V14)
  • Alban Levier Cranks Third Ascent of l’Alchimiste (V15)
  • New Big Wall Route Established on El Diente North Face in Mexico
  • Epic Ascent of Yosemite’s Ephemeral Widow’s Tears
  • Colin Haley on Patagonian Solo Streak
  • VIDEO: Tom Randall Takes Down the Kraken (V13)
  • Ryan Vachon Dominates 2016 Ouray Mixed Climbing Competition
  • Guillaume Glairon-Mondet Puts Up New V16 in Fontainebleau
  • Job Opening: Director of Digital Development
  • Two Experienced Climbers Killed in the Scottish Highlands
  • Jimmy Webb Sends The Game (V15)
  • Siegrist Sends Power Inverter (5.15a), Flashes Fish Eye (5.14b) in Spain
  • Jakob Schubert Sends La Planta de Shiva (5.15b) in Spain
  • VIDEO: Ueli Steck - Accepting Risk, Reward & Danger (Part 4)
  • Epic TV's Top Three Training Videos of 2015
  • Chris Sharma Sends Catalan Witness the Fitness (V-Hard) in Spain
  • Alex Megos Sends First Round, First Minute (5.15b) and More
  • A Tribute: Doug Walker, First AAC President Killed in Office
  • VIDEO: Barefoot French Climber Sends V12 Traverse
  • Two-time Mugs Stump Award Winner Ryan Jennings Dies on Ice Climb
  • Climbers We Lost in 2015
  • VIDEO: Tragedy Strikes Ueli Steck’s 82 Summit Project
  • Climbers Against Cancer Founder John Ellison Dies
  • VIDEO: Alexey Rubtsov Climbs Three Magic Wood V14s
  • Ashima Shiraishi Sends Phenomena (V14) in 30 Minutes
  • Kayah Gaydish Climbing Accident Update
  • Climb Safe: To Screamer Or Not To Screamer
  • VIDEO: Ueli Steck Runs Up 18 4,000 Meter Peaks In A Day
  • North Carolina Climber Dies in 50-foot Fall
  • Jimmy Webb Puts Up The Matriarch - The Southeast's First V15
  • The Classic Alpinist: Ueli Steck Climbs 82 Summits In 62 Days - Part 1
  • 2016 Mugs Stump Award Recipients
  • Access Fund Launches Second Batmobile
  • VIDEO: Road to the Top - World Cup Training with Alex Puccio
  • Lost in Mozambique – First Ascent on Mt. Namuli
  • The Top 7 Climbing Achievements of 2015
  • Sarah Hueniken First North American Woman to Send M14
  • Climb Safe: Full Strength Haul Loops
  • Will Gadd Sends The Mustang P-51 (M14-) Second Go - with Video
  • Walton, Grainger Claim Another Triple Crown Victory
  • Founder of The North Face, Doug Tompkins Dies in Patagonia
  • VIDEO: Highlights from La Sportiva Legends Only 2015
  • Top 10 Weekend Whippers of 2015
  • Kai Lightner Storms Bishop, Hikes The Mandala (V12)
  • Southern Rampage – Jimmy Webb Establishes Four V14s
  • Janja Garnbret Dominates La Sportiva Legends Only
  • Alex Megos Hikes Demencia Senil (5.15a)
  • Pirmin Bertle Sends Meiose (~5.15b) in Switzerland
  • VIDEO: Martin Stráník Climbs Story of Two Worlds (V15)
  • Q&A: Ueli Steck On Reclaiming the Eiger Speed Record
  • GEAR OF THE YEAR 2015
  • Edu Marin Redpoints Chilam Balam (5.15b)
  • Martin Stráník Sends Story of Two Worlds (V15)
  • Top 10 Climbing Videos of 2015
  • A Step Too Far - The Tragic First Ascent of Kuksar
  • VIDEO: Ondra and Markovič Crush in Kranj
  • Ueli Steck Reclaims Eiger Speed Record
  • Kai Lightner Reflects on Competitions, Bouldering and the Future
  • Jonathan Siegrist Crushes Papichulo (5.15a)
  • Dani Andrada Sends Chilam Balam (5.15b)
  • Ondra, Markovič Crowned 2015 Lead World Champions
  • Crack Fix – How to Build a Home Crack Training System
  • VIDEO: Alex Puccio Storms the Buttermilks—Bishop, California
  • The K2 Summit Controversy
  • VIDEO: Adam Ondra and Stefano Ghisolfi Send New 5.15b's
  • The Locomotive: Roy McMurtrey – 87 and Still Climbing
  • Whittaker, McManus Claim 2nd Ascent of The Secret Passage, El Cap
  • Sherpa Makes Solo First Ascent on Himalayan Peak
  • Banff Mountain Book Competition Announces Winners
  • VIDEO: Climbing the 9th Grade (5.14d)
  • Hound Ears Competition Postponed Again
  • Jorg Verhoeven Sends Wheel of Life (V15)
  • Adam Ondra Establishes France's Hardest Route
  • Stefano Ghisolfi Establishes Italy’s First 5.15b
  • No Expectations: Joe Kinder Sends 6 5.14c's in Spain
  • Solar, Rock and Landmines—Alex Honnold Explores Angola
  • Spotlight: Megan Mascarenas - The Logician
  • Big Wall Soloing on Bugs
  • Triple Crown Bouldering Series Kicks Off at Stone Fort
  • Niky Ceria Repeats Voyager Sit (V14)
  • Alpine Warriors - History of Alpinists in Yugoslavia
  • VIDEO: Joe Kinder and Patxi Usobiaga Explore Cala Gonone, Italy
  • Sonnie Trotter Fires Blue Jeans Direct (5.14a), Mount Yamnuska, Canada
  • Megos Cruises the Red River Gorge
  • Logan Barber Frees Honeycomb Dome (5.13d) in China
  • Ondra, Kim Sweep Lead World Cup in Wujiang, China
  • How to Build a Home Climbing Wall
  • Winners of the 8th Annual Rock and Ice / Mammut Photo Contest
  • Alex Megos Sweeps the New River Gorge
  • $10,000 Granted for Anchor Replacement Across U.S.
  • Three Sherpas Complete Three Himalayan First Ascents in Three Days
  • Ashima Shiraishi Sends Nuclear War (V14), New York
  • Dan Mirsky Sends The Crew (5.14c) – Rifle, Colorado
  • Marc-André Leclerc Free Solos Aguja Standhardt in Patagonia
  • David Lama Establishes Lebanon's Hardest Route
  • Dave Graham Sends Thor's Hammer
  • Q&A: The Willpower of Mar Álvarez
  • Q&A: Ethan Pringle on Thor's Hammer (5.15a)
  • Tufas in Paradise – Angy Eiter Puts Up New 5.14s in Greece
  • Yosemite Facelift - Finding Beauty Behind the Trash
  • Novice Climbers Could Be Banned from Everest to “Maintain the Glory”
  • Daniel Woods Smashes Thor's Hammer (5.15a)
  • Sport Climbing Makes Shortlist for 2020 Tokyo Olympics
  • Kim, Škofic Climb the Podium in Puurs
  • Trail Runner Now Hiring
  • Schaeli, Jasper, Gietl Establish Odyssee (5.13c) on the Eiger
  • VIDEO: Brette Harrington - Free Solo of Chiaro di Luna (5.11a)
  • Banff Mountain Book Competition Announces 2015 Finalists
  • A Youth Wasted Climbing
  • Toru Nakajima Sends Paint It Black (V15) in RMNP
  • Q&A: Jesse Grupper – Youth World Championships Silver Medalist
  • Everest ’96 – Unheard Voices of the 1996 Disaster
  • Paige Claassen Sends The Bleeding, Discusses First Female Ascents
  • Nalle Hukkataival Puts Up New V15 – The Stepping Stone
  • Sachi Amma Redpoints Jungle Boogie, 5.15a
  • Nina Caprez and Barbara Zangerl Redpoint 1,400-foot Rätikon 5.14
  • Bouldering Bub - Isaac Caldiero
  • REEL ROCK 10 - Interview with Filmmaker Peter Mortimer
  • Jonathan Siegrist Establishes New 5.14+ in the Fins
  • IMPORTANT SAFETY NOTICE: DMM Carabiner Recall
  • Climber Dies in Fall on Crestone Needle, CO
  • Alex Honnold Talks REEL ROCK 10
  • Marc-André Leclerc on Patagonian Climbing
  • The Dawn of Urban Big Wall Speed Climbing
  • She Goes! - Half Dome’s Regular Route Climbed After Rockfall
  • Spotlight: Alexander Ruchkin - Russian Locomotive
  • Climbing Beta: Rocktown, Georgia
  • Tex Bossier, Golden Age Climber, Dies in France
  • Ondra Pioneers Four FA's in Norway
  • Alpinists Killed Attempting New Route in Cordillera Blanca, Peru
  • Shiraishi, Garnbret Win Again at Arco Youth World Championships
  • Climbing Beta: El Potrero Chico, Mexico
  • Q&A: Sasha DiGiulian on Climbing the Eiger
  • Q&A: Carlo Traversi on Climbing the Eiger
  • Americans Claim Two Karakoram First Ascents
  • VIDEO: How To Climb 5.14d and Hold A Job
  • Scottish Team Climbs Paciencia on the Eiger North Face
  • USA Girls Rise Up in Arco's IFSC Bouldering Youth and Junior World Championships
  • Rocklands – How Far Are You
  • Seb Bouin Claims First Ascent in Verdon Gorge
  • Jakob Schubert Takes Third Ascent of Thor’s Hammer (5.15a)
  • Dave Graham Repeats Spray of Light (V15)
  • Sasha DiGiulian and Carlo Traversi Climb the Eiger North Face
  • VIDEO: Jonathan Siegrist Climbs La Rambla (5.15a)
  • Stormed Out – Sasha DiGiulian and Carlo Traversi Bail on Paciencia
  • Roskelleys Climb NE Buttress of Mount Slesse
  • Climb Safe: How to Extend a Rappel
  • Alex Megos Repeats Thor’s Hammer (5.15a), Flatanger Cave
  • Isabelle Faus Sends Amandla (V14)
  • Markovič, Supper Claim Gold in Stavanger
  • First Ascent of the Southwest Buttress of Mt. Waddington, B.C.
  • Andy Kirkpatrick Solos Sea of Dreams on El Cap
  • LIVE: IFSC Lead Climbing World Cup Stavanger 2015 - FINALS
  • How To Make Your Own Clip Stick - Tips from Jonathan Siegrist
  • Sasha DiGiulian, Carlo Traversi Go for Eiger Summit Push Tomorrow
  • Jonathan Hörst, 12, Sends Two 5.14’s
  • Best New Climbing Gear of 2016
  • Stanhope, Segal Free Bugaboos' Tom Egan Memorial Route at 5.14
  • Shauna Coxsey, Alexey Rubtsov Win Final Bouldering WC of the Year
  • Chon, Noguchi Crowned 2015 Bouldering World Cup Champions
  • Jon Krakauer: Climbing Everest was the Biggest Mistake I've Ever Made
  • LIVE: IFSC Bouldering World Cup Munich 2015
  • 82 and Done – Ueli Steck Completes Alps Mission in 61 Days
  • Lightning Halts Psicobloc, Jimmy Webb and Charlotte Durif Take Gold
  • Potrero Chico First Ascentionist “Magic” Ed Wright Dies
  • Staying Alive in the Death Sport Capital of the World
  • Mina Markovič, Romain Desgranges Win Lead World Cup, Imst, Austria
  • Jon Cardwell Snags Second Ascent of Shadowboxing (5.14d), Rifle
  • Eight Day Solo First Ascent of Bigwall Route on Mt. Huashan, China
  • Robert Pizem – Father First, Climber Second
  • Czech Up - Adam Ondra Climbs A Sparsely Bolted Sandstone Arête
  • British Team Makes First Ascent of The Mirror Wall, Greenland
  • Keep 'er Wild - Leave No Trace Tips for Rock Climbers
  • New Route and Deaths on Annapurna - World's Deadliest Mountain
  • Julianne Wurm and Jan Hojer On Sending Spree in Silvretta, Austria
  • Adam Ondra Claims Second Ascent of Sharma’s Three Degrees of Separation (5.14d), Céüse
  • Homestead: Access Fund Saves 360 Acres of Climbing Access in Arizona
  • MERU: Highly Anticipated Climbing Film Premieres August 14th
  • Alex Johnson - The Pro Life and Growing Up as a Climber
  • 32-Year-Old Dutch Mountaineer Dies in Fall on Mount Blanc Massif
  • Margo Hayes, 17, Sends Two Rifle 5.14s in One Day
  • Jesse Huey, Brette Harrington Claim Second and Third Free Ascents of Edge of Pan (5.13 R), Squamish
  • Vikki Weldon Makes Fourth Free Ascent of Adder Crack (5.13 R)
  • VIDEO: Stefano Ghisolfi Repeats Chris Sharma's Demencia Senil (5.15a)
  • Hukkataival, Woods Claim First and Second Ascents of Get Railed (V14)
  • REEL ROCK 10 Film Tour Lineup
  • Jain Kim, Gautier Supper Win Gold in Briançon, France
  • Karoline Sinnhuber Sends First V13, Charity Boulder, Silvretta
  • VIDEO: Sicilian Deep Water Soloing
  • Juliane Wurm Ditches Comp Climbing for Real Rocks
  • Rock Climbing Saved My Life: A Veteran’s Struggle with PTSD
  • Conrad Anker, David Lama Put Up New Route on Temple of Sinewava
  • Barbara Zangerl Sends Bellavista (5.14a, 500m)
  • Mina Markovič, Ramón Julián Puigblanque Win Lead World Cup, Chamonix, France
  • Daniel Woods V15 FA Spray of Light, Rocklands
  • ​The Edge of Extinction - First Ascent of Nanga Parbat's Mazeno Ridge
  • Seb Bouin Establishes 5.15a at Pic Saint-Loup
  • UK/US Expedition Summits Unclimbed Himalayan Peak
  • Ueli Steck Reaches Halfway Point on 82 Summits Project
  • Dave Graham Claims FA of Hatchet Prow (V14), Rocklands
  • MOVES - How Many Climbs Can You Identify From Just One Move?
  • Jimmy Webb Makes Second Ascent of Livin Large (V15), Rocklands
  • Belay Ledge Disappears on Half Dome’s Regular Route
  • Giorgia Tesio, 14, Makes First Female Ascent of Chay (5.13d)
  • Dimitri Vogt, 18, Sends Cabane au Canada (5.14d)
  • Time-Lapse: Lightning Triggers Multiple Wildfires in Zion
  • Anthony Johnson Onsights Jihad - Third Ascent of “Terrifying” Vedauwoo Offwidth
  • Only Two Seats Left at the John Long Writing Symposium
  • Nacho Sánchez Sends Monkey Wedding (V15)—Rocklands
  • Climbing Access Victory – Michigan’s AAA Walls Re-Opened
  • ​First World Cup Victory for Petra Klingler - Haiyang, China
  • Grampians: Best Bouldering in the World or Overrated?
  • Stefano Ghisolfi Sends Sharma’s Biographie/Realization (5.15a)
  • Sean McColl, Akiyo Noguchi Win Bouldering World Cup, Chongqing, China
  • Ueli Steck, Michi Wohlleben: Eighty-two Summits in 80 days
  • The Beatnik of the Alps: A tale of FA's, Rescues, Love, and Suicide
  • Untouched Rock: Angie Eiter, Bernie Ruech Develop New Crag in Greece
  • Massive Rockfall in Yosemite's Tenaya Canyon
  • Hazel Findlay on Positivity, Being Bold and Staying Focused
  • Cameron Hörst, 14, Sends First 5.14b, Raubritter
  • Josh Ibbertson, 11, Sends Raindogs (5.13b)
  • Jonathan Siegrist: 5.14 First Ascent in the Flatirons, Colorado
  • Sasha DiGiulian Makes First Female Ascent of La Coccinelle Trump L'oeil (5.14), Verdon Gorge
  • Chris Sharma Free-Climbs California’s Redwoods
  • Stefano Ghisolfi Sends Hell'Avaro (5.14c/d)
  • For Sale: 10 Acres at Donner Summit
  • Roland Hemetzberger Repeats Ondra’s Fugu (5.14d)
  • Iranian Team Climbs First Ascent on Karambony Tower, Madagascar
  • Megan Mascarenas, Nathaniel Coleman on the Podium in Vail
  • Inside the Mind of Ethan Pringle – Climbing Jumbo Love (5.15b)
  • Sachi Amma - Second and Last Ascent of Tinipi (5.15a), Borneo Earthquake
  • Adam Ondra Flashes Jade (V14), Don’t Get Too Greedy (V13) after Vail WC
  • LIVE: 2015 IFSC Bouldering World Cup, Vail
  • Emily Harrington Sends Golden Gate (5.13) on El Capitan
  • VIDEO: Hazel Findlay - Giving El Cap's Pre-Muir (5.13+) a Try
  • GoPro Mountain Games Hosts Bouldering World Cup
  • Austrian Alpinists Summit Unclimbed Mt. Reaper in Alaska.
  • Adam Ondra Sends White Noise (V14/15), Flashes Bear Toss (V13)
  • Mateusz Haladaj Sends Sharma’s Papichulo (9a+/5.15a)
  • Anna Stöhr and Alban Levier Take Gold in Toronto
  • LIVE: IFSC Bouldering World Cup Toronto 2015
  • Twenty-two Year Old Dies in Rappelling Accident on El Cap
  • Ramp Up Your Training with Fun
  • IFSC World Cup in Toronto May 30-31
  • Sébastian Bouin Claims Third Ascent of Chilam Balam (5.15b), Spain
  • Bouldering Competition to be Held in Memory of Tito Traversa
  • Only Two Spots Left in the John Long Writing Symposium!
  • VIDEO: Tommy Caldwell Cruises Ice-Covered Crack
  • Vasya Vorotnikov, Claire Bresnan Claim Bouldering Titles at Riverrock
  • Alex Puccio on Training, Bodyweight and Crowdfunding
  • Siegrist Sends Le Cadre Nouvelle (5.14d)–“Best climbing trip of my life”
  • Kev Shields – High Solace: Demons, Depression and Solo Climbing
  • VIDEO: Raw Power vs Flawless Technique
  • Germans Win Big at European Bouldering Championships
  • Ethan Pringle Sends Jumbo Love (5.15b) – Hardest Sport Climb in America
  • Dean Potter Killed in Wingsuit Accident in Yosemite
  • Solo Climber Found Dead on Denali
  • LIVE STREAM: European Bouldering Championships 2015 – Semi-finals
  • VIDEO: Gord McArthur - The Man Behind the Machine
  • Training Beta: How to Warm Up For Route Climbing
  • Logan Barber Frees The Firewall (5.13d)—Hardest Trad Line in China
  • Sherpa Future Fund and Account of the April 25 Everest Avalanche
  • A Second Earthquake and A Shorter Everest
  • Dai Koyamada Sends Three-Year “Super Project”
  • Chris Sharma Onsights Snuff Movies (8c/5.14b), Catalonia, Spain
  • Calling All Non-Sponsored Climbers
  • 2015 Ice Climbing Trip Report: Montana, Wyoming and Norway
  • Melloblocco 2015: World's Largest International Bouldering Festival
  • Dean Potter Sets New Half Dome FKT
  • Indian Creek, Cedar Mesa Under Threat by Utah Legislature
  • Nepal Disaster Relief: How You Can Help
  • Dani Arnold Breaks Ueli Steck’s Speed Record on the Matterhorn
  • Big Men: 5.15a First Ascent by Iker Pou, Spain
  • A Summitless Year for Everest? North Side Closed, Retreat from the South
  • Training Beta: How to Make Yourself Try Hard
  • Q&A: Angie Scarth-Johnson, 10, On Tijuanita (5.14a)
  • Mina Leslie-Wujastyk, Mecca Extension (5.14b) and What it Means to be a Climber
  • Climbing Accident: Earthquake, Avalanche, 21 Dead on Everest, Over 4,600 in Nepal
  • VIDEO: Chris Sharma Sends El Bon Combat (5.15b/c)
  • Angie Scarth-Johnson, 10, Climbs Her First 5.14b
  • VIDEO: Yvon Chouinard on the Today Show
  • VIDEO: Lynn Hill, Real Life Superhero
  • Sufferfest: Alex Honnold and Cedar Wright on Nat Geo Live
  • Angy Eiter Sends Era Vella (5.14d), Spain
  • VIDEO: Sasha DiGiulian on the Deep Bond Between Climbing Partners
  • Pamela Pack Establishes 5.13 Offwidth, American Horror Story
  • Geyikbayiri Saved: Climbers Stop Mining Operation at Turkey’s Largest Crag
  • Jacopo Larcher Gets Second Ascent of Helmutant (5.14d), Italy (With Video)
  • Carlo Traversi Bags Bad Girls Club (5.14d), Rifle, Colorado
  • Training Beta: Mark and Mike Anderson’s Guide to Hangboard Training
  • Puccio Sends V10, V11 and V12 in One Day
  • Daniel Woods, Jon Cardwell Send Kryptonite (5.14d)
  • Plane Crash Kills Climber Andy Tyson
  • Jakob Schubert Gets Second Ascent of Bügeleisen Sit, Austria’s First V15
  • 2015 Piolets d’Or Awards
  • Rub it Raw: Mike Anderson, Bryan Bird Free Five-Pitch 5.13 in Zion
  • Vikki Weldon Sends Los Humildes pa Casa (5.14a), Oliana, Spain
  • Q&A: Sonnie Trotter On Estado Critico (5.14d)
  • Alex Megos Downunder
  • Roads, Bridges Washed Out At Red River Gorge
  • Kai Lightner Sends His First 5.14d, Era Vella, Spain
  • Sonnie Trotter Sends Estado Critico (5.14d), Siurana, Spain
  • Ramón Julián Puigblanque: Two 5.14d's and Two 5.15a's in Four Days
  • Matt Segal Bags 2nd Ascent of Carbondale Short Bus (5.14-)
  • VIDEO: Dave MacLeod – Project Fear
  • VIDEO: Training with Adam Ondra
  • Rock Climbing Training: How to Lose Weight for Climbing
  • Dean Potter: When Dogs Fly
  • Climb Safe: Worn Belay Loops and Retiring a Harness
  • Climb Safe: Do Ropes Need to Rest Between Falls?
  • Q&A: Jesse Grupper, 2015 SCS National Championship Runner-Up
  • Kai Lightner, Delaney Miller Win 2015 SCS National Championships
  • LIVE: 2015 SCS National Championships
  • Annapurna Claims Two More Lives
  • ​Carlo Traversi Sends Kryptonite (5.14d)
  • Climb Safe: Re-Slinging Cams
  • Roland Wagner: A 21-Year Dream to Climb 5.14d (With Video)
  • Ashima Ticks Another Project in Spain
  • Jonathan Siegrist Sends La Rambla (5.15a)
  • Alex Megos: Japan Sendathon
  • VIDEO: Ontario Climbing
  • Climb Safe: Daisy Chain Dangers
  • Ethan Pringle Sends La Reina Mora (5.14d)
  • Ashima Shiraishi Climbs Possible 5.15a
  • Rock Climbing Accident: Climber Falls to Death, Apparent Bolt Failure
  • Golden Moment: Bill Ramsey Sends 5.14b at 54
  • Climb Safe: Can A Hot Belay Device Melt My Slings?
  • VIDEO: Alex Megos on Lucid Dreaming (V15)
  • Mason Earle Establishes New 5.14 Crack Climb
  • Wildfire Tears Through Cape Town Crags
  • Siberian Express: New 5.14c from Mark Anderson
  • PHOTO GALLERY: Canadian Ice: By John Price
  • Lead Singer of The Rebel Spell Dies in Climbing Accident
  • Ryan Vachon and Sarah Hueniken Crush Vail’s Hardest Mixed Lines
  • Caldwell, Honnold, Practice Your Speeches for the 2015 Piolets d’Or
  • LIVE STREAM: Climbing Works International Festival 2015
  • Chris Sharma Sends El Bon Combat (5.15b/c)
  • PHOTO GALLERY: Women of Rock 3 in HD
  • Magic Woods
  • Alex Johnson: FA of The Swoop (V10), with Video
  • VIDEO: Teton Gravity: The Himalayas from 20,000 ft.
  • First Free-Solo of Chiaro di Luna (5.11a), Fitz Roy Massif, Patagonia
  • 2015 Rock and Ice Photo Camp Enrollment Now Open
  • Q&A: Ondra Sends Necessary Evil, Says Failures Are Reasons to Train
  • Pakistan to Train High-Altitude Police Unit to Protect Climbers
  • Marc-André Leclerc Solos Corkscrew on Cerro Torre
  • New Winter Route on the Troll Wall, Romsdal, Norway
  • New Paltz Climbing Gym Burns Down
  • Hueco Tanks Public Use Plan Under Review
  • Kwon YoungHye Sends World's Hardest Mixed-Climbs In A Season
  • Everest: Reroute Through Khumbu Icefall for the 2015 Climbing Season
  • Sachi Amma Sends 5.15a on 4th Attempt, in Santa Linya, Spain
  • Royal Canadian Air Force Sgt. Missing After Ice Climbing Accident
  • Griffin Whiteside Sends The Big Island (V15) in Fontainebleau
  • Puccio and Woods Both Claim 9th ABS National Title
  • Colin Haley and Marc-André Leclerc Put Up New Routes in Patagonia
  • Sneak Peek: The Dawn Wall Issue Is On The Way!
  • Papert Claims Second Ascent of M12 Scarefest
  • Messner Capped the Hour at the AAC’s 2015 Annual Benefit Dinner
  • Sachi Amma Sends Sharma's Fight or Flight (5.15b) in Oliana, Spain
  • Climbing Guide Dies in Fall
  • VIDEO: Will Gadd Sends Niagara Falls
  • Will Gadd Climbs a Frozen Niagara Falls
  • SlabMaster: Klemen Bečan Onsights 5.14c in Spain (With Video)
  • The Quinfecta: Classic San Juan Colorado Ice Climb Link-up
  • Alex Megos Sends Lucid Dreaming (V15)
  • Nick Duttle Sends 5.14d Project in New Mexico
  • Nalle Hukkataival Cranks First Ascent of Kintsugi (V15)
  • Tommy Caldwell and Kevin Jorgeson Appear on The Ellen DeGeneres Show
  • The Grand Experience: Superbowl XLIX to Host Rock Climbing Wall
  • Oregon Climber Killed in Fall
  • Climbing Film "Meru" Makes it into the Sundance Film Festival
  • Q&A: Jason Kehl Proves that Hueco Tanks Is Far From Climbed Out
  • Daniel Woods Sends The Process - Possible V16
  • Acclaimed Cellist Ben Sollee Raises Money for Red River Gorge
  • Robert Craig, K2 Survivor, Author and Educator, Dies
  • The Film "Valley Uprising" is Now Available Here
  • The Dawn Wall Goes Down!
  • Guidebook Worth its Weight in Gold, Selling for $1,000
  • Dawn Wall Update: Jorgeson Catches Caldwell, Final Push Begins
  • Dawn Wall Update: Jorgeson Sends Dyno, Two Pitches Away from Wino Tower
  • Gadd Wins Ouray, Again
  • Dawn Wall Update: Jorgeson Sends Pitch 15!
  • Dawn Wall Update: Caldwell Sends Last 5.14 Pitch!
  • Sasha DiGiulian to Compete in Ouray Ice Fest
  • Sam Elias Reports on New Routes in Lebanon
  • Dawn Wall Update: Caldwell Sends Pitch 16!
  • Dawn Wall Update: Caldwell and Jorgeson Both Send Crux Pitch!
  • Climbers We Lost in 2014
  • Caldwell and Jorgeson are Charging Up The Dawn Wall
  • Ashima Shiraishi Climbs V12 in Bishop
  • Toni Lamprecht Establishes Black Flag (5.14c/d)
  • Video: Niky Ceria Bouldering in Albarracin, Spain Before the Chalk Ban
  • Desert Climbing Legend Eric Bjornstad Has Died
  • Adam Ondra Flashes Chromosome Y (5.14d)
  • TNB: The Story Behind the Craziest of Rescues
  • Broken Rules and Broken Problems in Red Rock, Nevada
  • Will Mayo Sends Jedi Mind Tricks (M13) and Establishes Mustang (M14)
  • Jeff Mercier Onsights D13
  • Climbing Saves At-Risk Youth in Mexico
  • Ascent, Now Accepting Stories
  • Jimmy Webb Takes Down Defying Gravity (V15)
  • Climber Dies From Fall in the Gunks
  • Tommy Caldwell Sends Last Hard Pitch on the Dawn Wall
  • Ondra Takes First in Lead World Cup
  • Honnold Frees El Cap's Muir Wall (5.13b/c) in 12 Hours with No Falls
  • Delaney Miller Jumps From V7 to V11
  • Clif Bar's Response: A Letter to the Climbing Community
  • Drew Ruana, 15, Sends an American Classic - Just Do It (5.14c)
  • Alex Megos Sends Mandala Sit Start (V13/14)
  • Dave Pegg, King of Rifle, Has Died
  • Jorg Verhoeven Free Climbs the Nose (5.14) on El Cap
  • Honnold, Potter, and Others Fired by Clif Bar for Soloing
  • New Outhouse in Indian Creek in Honor of Black Diamond Engineer
  • Jimmy Webb Makes First Ascent of Wyoming’s Multiverse (V14)
  • Jakob Schubert Wastes No Time in Magic Wood
  • Gear Review: Mammut Realization Shorts
  • Another New Speed Record on the Nose for Sauter and Smith-Gobat
  • Martin Stranik Repeats Practice of the Wild (V15)
  • Gabriele Moroni Finishes Three-Year Project—Goldrake (5.15a)
  • Libby Sauter and Mayan Smith-Gobat Break El Cap Speed Record
  • Ondra and Kim Back on Top at Inzai World Cup
  • Nina Caprez Sends 5.14b at a New Crag in Turkey
  • Marieta Akalski Cranks in Spain, Sends Florida (5.14b)
  • Vandalism Across National Parks
  • Sonnie Trotter Establishes His Hardest Trad Climb - Family Man (5.14b)
  • Pete Whittaker Flashes Freerider (5.12d) on El Cap
  • Climber Dies in Fall at Zion National Park
  • Déjà Vu for Women, Ghisolfi Gets First Gold
  • Mina Leslie-Wujastyk Sends Mecca Extension (5.14b)
  • J-Star is Livin' Astro (5.14c)
  • Alex Huber Establishes 10-Pitch Alpine 5.14b
  • Bouldering in Namibia
  • Hukkataival Puts Up "One of the Best Boulders" He's Ever Climbed
  • Surprise in Korea: Ondra Out of Finals, Nice Wins for Schubert and Markovic
  • Scott Cosgrove Gravely Injured
  • Updated! Back-to-Back Strong Sends for Angela Eiter
  • DiGiulian and Marin Send 1,000-Foot 5.14 in Sardinia
  • New Four-Pitch Mixed Testpiece in Utah
  • Fabian Buhl Expands Repertoire With Six-Pitch Silbergeier (5.14a)
  • VIDEO: Mark Heal Makes FA of Holy Rails Sit (V13) in Tuolumne
  • Two V14s in a Day for Dave Graham
  • Oakdale Climbers Festival Themed "A Woman's Reach"
  • Katharina Saurwein Becomes Third Woman to Send Nuthin' But Sunshine (V13)
  • Avalanche Kills Two On 8,000m Himalayan Peak
  • Fred Nicole Sends The Escapist (V14)
  • Canadian Crusher Marieta Akalski Storms Rifle, Sends Her First 5.14a
  • The Naked Edge Done in 26 Minutes, See Video Clip
  • Mountain Guide Latest IS Victim
  • Daniel Woods Bags First Ascent at 14,000 Feet
  • VIDEO: Jorg Verhoeven and Katharina Saurwein Rip It Up in RMNP
  • Lee Sheftel Climbs 5.13b at 68 Years Old
  • Alex Puccio Sends Her Second V14, Wheel of Chaos
  • Brette Harrington Makes Second Female Ascent of the Trad Route Shadow (5.13a)
  • Jon Cardwell Sends Wheel of Chaos (V14) In A Day
  • Cheyne Lempe and Ethan Pringle Climb New Route in Yosemite
  • VIDEO: The Psychology of Climbing Champion Ramón Julián
  • World Cup Climber Sean McColl Dominates American Ninja Warrior
  • Jonathan Siegrist Develops Hard Routes in Idaho
  • Climber Dies From Fall On Mount Garfield, Washington
  • Alex Megos Sends His Longest Project Yet—Geocache
  • VIDEO: Inside the Mind of a Free Soloist - Tom Randall Goes Ropeless
  • Q&A: Yuji Hirayama Wants More UK Trad
  • Nalle Hukkataival Sends V15 Project in Australia
  • James Pearson Flashes Something’s Burning (5.13d X) in Wales
  • Yuji Hirayama Sends 5.13+ R Trad Testpiece
  • Chris Bonington, 80, Sends Old Man of Hoy for his Birthday
  • Alex Puccio's Outdoor Climbing Pays Off At Arco
  • VIDEO: Jonathan Siegrist Climbing Speed Intégrale (5.14d)
  • Ondra Dominates Bouldering Championships, Puccio Takes Silver
  • Alex Honnold Talks About the Risk of Free Soloing
  • Climber Dies in Tuolumne Meadows
  • Alex Puccio Climbs The Automator (V13)
  • Urs Moosmuller Climbs Fathers Day (5.14a) on Gear
  • Q&A: Beat Kammerlander Still Runs It Out
  • Buhrfeind and McColl Win 2014 Psicobloc Masters
  • Famed Utah Tower Falls
  • Angie Payne Gets Freaky with Her Second V13
  • Alex Puccio Sends Jade (V14)
  • Nina Caprez Redpoints All Pitches on Orbayu (5.14b)
  • First All-Female Nepalese Team Summits K2
  • Interview: Alex Megos Climbs Slow, But Sends Fast
  • VIDEO: Coxsey Climbs New Base Line (V14)
  • VIDEO: Nalle Hukkataival on Bügeleisen Sit Start (V15+)
  • Hans Florine, 50, Sets Solo Speed Record for Triple Direct on El Cap
  • Sam Davis Climbs Jade (V14)
  • Q&A: Shauna Coxsey Third Woman to Climb V14
  • Q&A: Alex Megos Sends Biographie/Realization (5.15a) in Three Tries
  •  
    Video Spotlight
    Stormbringer, No Retreat - Ice Climbing in Norway
    Stormbringer, No Retreat - Ice Climbing in Norway

    How To Be a Xena of Rock Climbing

    11-Jun-2014
    By Allison Moon

    Author Allison Moon (right) and her crack climbing mentor, Loni Uchytil, at Royal Columns on the Tieton River, Washington.  Photograph by Stephanie Oster. I was once honored with the prestigious and highly sought-after Xena Warrior Princess award. It was almost the end of my seven months abroad in Costa Rica, when our small group of University of California undergrads, sensing that this period of adventure and intimate friendship was coming to a close, decided to have an award ceremony to commemorate each person’s contribution to the group dynamic and our collective experience. I earned my award—I’m pretty sure—based on two things: getting busted by the program director for galloping a horse through the mountains in a remote location far from any hospital (never mind that the tour guide condoned it … and it was his horse), and picking fights with guys yelling sleazy cat-calls (or piropos in Costa Rican slang) at the women in our group as we walked by.

    My first confession is that I have never watched a full episode of Xena: Warrior Princess. However, knowing a little about the show's protagonist Xena from the bits and pieces that I’d seen, I was honored by the award. I cannot think of a more accurate embodiment of who I aspire to be at the crag. Xena is a paradigm of the fully empowered woman. She is strong, smart, sexy as hell, and is a remorseless, unrepentant ass-kicker. She is completely unhindered by gender-role expectations and is in command of her identity and her destiny.

    While I like to think I might model her in some ways, my second confession is that I often fall short of the example she sets. As a woman, I tend to psychologically take the back seat while climbing. I climb mostly with men who are stronger, more experienced climbers than me, who do most or all of the route planning and preparation, and who rope-gun hard routes so I can toprope to my heart’s content and never have to take the sharp-end. As a woman in a predominantly male sport, it is easy to become complacent and let the guys do all the heavy lifting. But the cost of staying safely within your comfort zone is that you never take ownership of the sport, and you never get to experience the sense of accomplishment that comes with taking on a project that is all your own.

    Xena Warrior Princess Caitlin O'Brien tearing it up on Orange Sunshine (5.10b) at Royal Columns on the Tieton River, Washington.  Photograph by Stephanie Oster. Breaking out of this pattern is not easy. It creates its own inertia, and you might find yourself blaming external circumstances for the fact that you haven’t taken on a more active role. You might think, “But I don’t have any women climbing partners who climb hard … If I was a stronger climber then I could … I feel bad making the guys lead belay me on routes they would find boring.” Don’t fall into this trap! Ultimately, the only thing holding you back is you. If you want to be a Xena at the crag, you need to step up and own it. If you do find yourself feeling passive about your climbing, here are a few tips from my own experience that might help you make this psychological transition.

    Climb with people who are less experienced than you. For many women, being the alpha in a group of climbers is a foreign experience. Most of us are not accustomed to having people look to us for leadership. Men’s natural (and sometimes infuriating) endowment of upper body strength makes them the leaders of most co-ed sports. But if you climb with people less experienced than you, you will automatically find yourself the leader and the rope-gun by popular vote or default, and it will hurtle your mind into the driver’s seat. It does not matter if the hardest thing you’ve ever led is a 5.9 on bolts. You can still rope-gun those 5.9s for people who get nervous toproping 5.8s. I’ve heard some women complain that they’ll get bored if they’re not with someone who can put up hard routes for them, but I call BS. When you’re on the sharp-end and know that your friends are watching you from the ground with admiration at your skill and courage, trust me, you will be having fun.


    Don’t hold back. I hate to say it, but there are certain things I sometimes see women do that make it difficult for any of us to excel. While climbing, women tend to insist that we all climb in a group, at the same level. There is a subtle but real pressure that we assert on one another not to get too far ahead of the pack. Without even realizing it, we say things to our friends to discourage them. For example, a friend (who had climbed longer than me) once said to me after I successfully climbed a harder route than she could climb, “I don’t understand why some people have to be competitive about climbing harder than other people. It should just be for fun, for its own sake.” Instantly, my mind went off on a silent rant: By some people you mean me, right? Why can’t I climb something hard without it being competition? And what’s wrong with competition anyway? And who says it’s not fun to climb hard? I LOVE climbing hard!”

    Crack climbing Xena, Loni Uchytil, giving some pointers to Gwen Dinish at Royal Columns on the Tieton River, Washington.  Photograph by Stephanie Oster.Don’t do this to your friends, and don’t let your friends discourage you. If you are climbing with other women, and you want to climb something harder than they can climb, do it anyway. Think of yourself as setting an example of empowerment, rather than as a showoff. Conversely, if your female climbing partner asks you to belay her on something you know you can’t climb, tell her to get after it! If we insist on all climbing at the same level we become like the proverbial crabs in a bucket. To really own climbing, women need to feel good about being rock stars, and we need to be genuinely proud of our friends when it’s their turn in the spotlight.

    Go to the gym by yourself. If you fall into the mental habit of thinking you need a partner to climb, you’ll always be dependent on other people for your climbing, and you’ll pass up many valuable hours of practice. Although climbing with friends can be more fun, climbing alone lets you be completely selfish. You can work on one project for hours without worrying about boring your friends. Also, when I’m at the gym by myself, I inevitably meet someone working on the same problem, and it can turn into a really fun collaborative experience.

    If the guys offer to be your belay bitch, accept. I want to give kudos to my guy climbing partners for their encouragement and for helping me be a better climber. As I mentioned, most of my climbing partners happen to be dudes, and they happen to be really strong climbers. And those guys have never hesitated to belay me on something they could do without breaking a sweat. When you are climbing with stronger partners, whether guy or gal, watch how they climb, learn from them, and if they say they would be happy to belay you for an hour on your project, take their offer at face value and accept it! If you have a willing belay partner, pick a project and work it until you send it. Your friend will be totally stoked to watch you achieve your goal, and you’ll be a better climber for it.

    Look for other Xenas. I recently befriended an incredible crack climber named Loni. I’ve only known her for a few months, and already she has taught me more about jamming, foot camming, placing gear, building anchors, and swapping leads than I ever thought I’d know. Look for women climbers who inspire you and make them your climbing partners. Women mentors are invaluable. They remind us that we have a definite place in this sport—that Xenas like Lynn Hill, Steph Davis, Hazel Findlay, and Ashima Shiraishi are the rule, not the exception. They show us what is possible.

    Author Allison Moon on rappel at Royal Columns on the Tieton River, Washington.  Photograph by Stephanie Oster.

    I have long-strived to take ownership of my climbing, and these tips are things I have learned from personal experience on this quest. My final confession is that I don’t always follow my own advice. I still sometimes find myself sitting in the mental back seat, or declining to take the sharp end in favor of toproping something someone else has put up. But this advice does work. When I do follow these tips, I find that I am finally in command of my climbing experience, and my enjoyment in the sport increases exponentially. So, if you too want to be a badass-warrior-princess-rock-star-climber-chick, these suggestions will point you in the right direction. The rest is up to you.

    Reader's Commentary:

    Don't want to use Facebook, but still want to comment? We have you covered:

    Add Your Comments to this article:
    Hello