Table of Contents
  • Are Homemade Draws Reliable?
  • Avoiding Arthritis
  • Avoiding Injury
  • Basic Aid Technique
  • Climb Safe: Belaying Part 1
  • Climb Safe: Belaying Part 2
  • How to Belay for Climbing
  • How to Choose Climbing Equipment
  • How to Climb on Lead
  • How to Climb on Toprope
  • How to Rappel
  • How to Rig an Anchor for a Novice
  • How To Rig Trad Anchors/Belays
  • How to Toprope
  • How to Train for Rock climbing
  • Respecting the Climbing Environment
  • Rock Climbing Accident: Bolt Pulls Out in the New River Gorge
  • Rock Climbing Injury: Shoulder: SLAP Lesion and Cortisone
  • Rock Climbing Injury: Shoulder: Thoracic Outlet Syndrome
  • Rock Climbing Nutrition: Anti-inflammatory Foods vs NSAIDS
  • Rock Climbing Training: Avoiding the Gear-Placement Pump
  • Rock Climbing Training: Beating the Lactic Acid Pump
  • Rock Climbing Training: Best Ratio of Resting to Bouldering
  • Rock Climbing Training: Boost Power With Eccentric Training
  • Rock Climbing Training: Can Old Guys Get Stronger?
  • Rock Climbing Training: Do Forearm Trainers Work?
  • Rock Climbing Training: Does Creatine Work?
  • Rock Climbing Training: Does Running or Biking Improve Your Climbing?
  • Rock Climbing Training: Dynamic vs. Static Stretching
  • Rock Climbing Training: Euro Training Secrets
  • Rock Climbing Training: Gain Confidence by Learning Not to Fear Falling
  • Rock Climbing Training: Get Better When You Are Scared and Pumped
  • Rock Climbing Training: Getting Strong After a Layoff
  • Rock Climbing Training: How Often Should You Rest?
  • Rock Climbing Training: How to Beat Fear
  • Rock Climbing Training: How to Develop Sloper Strength
  • Rock Climbing Training: How to Mentally Train
  • Rock Climbing Training: How to Power Train for Climbing
  • Rock Climbing Training: How to Prevent Bonking
  • Rock Climbing Training: How To Recover On Route
  • Rock Climbing Training: How to Stay Psyched
  • Rock Climbing Training: How to Unlock a Crux
  • Rock Climbing Training: HowTo Use Microcycles
  • Rock Climbing Training: Improving Slab Technique
  • Rock Climbing Training: Is Protein Important?
  • Rock Climbing Training: Maximizing a Small Home Wall
  • Rock Climbing Training: Maximum Training in Minimum Time
  • Rock Climbing Training: Never Get Pumped Again
  • Rock Climbing Training: Overcome Anxiety and Send!
  • Rock Climbing Training: Periodized Training For the Year-round Approach
  • Rock Climbing Training: Pushing Past Your Training Plateau
  • Rock Climbing Training: Recovery Supplement Truths
  • Rock Climbing Training: Regaining Confidence After a Fall
  • Rock Climbing Training: Resting the Perfect Amount
  • Rock Climbing Training: Should You Add Weight or Use Smaller Holds on a Hangboard
  • Rock Climbing Training: Should You Lose Weight or Get Stronger?
  • Rock Climbing Training: The Importance of Finger Strength
  • Rock Climbing Training: The Secrets of Warming Up
  • Rock Climbing Training: The Unnatural Way to Climb
  • Rock Climbing Training: Tips for Better Onsighting
  • Rock Climbing Training: Training During Pregnancy
  • Rock Climbing Training: Training While Hungry
  • Rock Climbing Training: Training With an Injury
  • Rock Climbing Training: Ultimate Strength
  • Rock Climbing Training: Using a Weight Belt For Training
  • Rock Climbing Training: Warming Up Without Warm-Ups
  • The First Sport
  • The Intuitive Approach to Training
  • THE PERFECT 5-MINUTE WARM-UP FOR CLIMBERS
  • Training for Climbing: Injured? Train Your Core!
  • Understanding Climbing Ratings and Grades
  • Winter Workouts
  • Witness the Mental Fitness
  • Are Homemade Draws Reliable?
  • Climb Safe: Belaying Part 1
  • Climb Safe: Belaying Part 2
  • Climbing Anchor and Belay Stations
  • Climbing Photography How To
  • Climbing Protection
  • Free Climbing Tips: Why Get Stronger When You Can Get Better?
  • How to Belay for Climbing
  • How to Choose Climbing Equipment
  • How to Climb on Lead
  • How to Climb on Toprope
  • How to Rappel
  • How to Rig an Anchor for a Novice
  • How To Rig Trad Anchors/Belays
  • How to Toprope
  • How to Train for Rock climbing
  • Respecting the Climbing Environment
  • Rock Climbing Injury: Shoulder: SLAP Lesion and Cortisone
  • Rock Climbing Injury: Shoulder: Thoracic Outlet Syndrome
  • Rock Climbing Training: Beating the Lactic Acid Pump
  • Rock Climbing Training: Best Ratio of Resting to Bouldering
  • Rock Climbing Training: Boost Power With Eccentric Training
  • Rock Climbing Training: Can Old Guys Get Stronger?
  • Rock Climbing Training: Do Forearm Trainers Work?
  • Rock Climbing Training: Does Creatine Work?
  • Rock Climbing Training: Does Running or Biking Improve Your Climbing?
  • Rock Climbing Training: Dynamic vs. Static Stretching
  • Rock Climbing Training: Euro Training Secrets
  • Rock Climbing Training: Gain Confidence by Learning Not to Fear Falling
  • Rock Climbing Training: Get Better When You Are Scared and Pumped
  • Rock Climbing Training: Getting Strong After a Layoff
  • Rock Climbing Training: How Often Should You Rest?
  • Rock Climbing Training: How to Beat Fear
  • Rock Climbing Training: How to Develop Sloper Strength
  • Rock Climbing Training: How to Mentally Train
  • Rock Climbing Training: How to Power Train for Climbing
  • Rock Climbing Training: How to Prevent Bonking
  • Rock Climbing Training: How To Recover On Route
  • Rock Climbing Training: How to Stay Psyched
  • Rock Climbing Training: How to Unlock a Crux
  • Rock Climbing Training: HowTo Use Microcycles
  • Rock Climbing Training: Improving Slab Technique
  • Rock Climbing Training: Is Protein Important?
  • Rock Climbing Training: Maximizing a Small Home Wall
  • Rock Climbing Training: Maximum Training in Minimum Time
  • Rock Climbing Training: Overcome Anxiety and Send!
  • Rock Climbing Training: Periodized Training For the Year-round Approach
  • Rock Climbing Training: Pushing Past Your Training Plateau
  • Rock Climbing Training: Recovery Supplement Truths
  • Rock Climbing Training: Regaining Confidence After a Fall
  • Rock Climbing Training: Resting the Perfect Amount
  • Rock Climbing Training: Should You Add Weight or Use Smaller Holds on a Hangboard
  • Rock Climbing Training: Should You Lose Weight or Get Stronger?
  • Rock Climbing Training: The Importance of Finger Strength
  • Rock Climbing Training: The Secrets of Warming Up
  • Rock Climbing Training: The Unnatural Way to Climb
  • Rock Climbing Training: Tips for Better Onsighting
  • Rock Climbing Training: Training During Pregnancy
  • Rock Climbing Training: Training While Hungry
  • Rock Climbing Training: Training With an Injury
  • Rock Climbing Training: Ultimate Strength
  • Rock Climbing Training: Using a Weight Belt For Training
  • Rock Climbing Training: Warming Up Without Warm-Ups
  • The Climbing Dictionary
  • The First Sport
  • THE PERFECT 5-MINUTE WARM-UP FOR CLIMBERS
  • Training for Climbing: Injured? Train Your Core!
  • Understanding Climbing Ratings and Grades
  • Winter Workouts
  • Witness the Mental Fitness
  • Avoiding Arthritis
  • Avoiding Injury
  • Climb Safe: Spotting for Bouldering
  • Climbing Photography How To
  • Free Climbing Tips: Why Get Stronger When You Can Get Better?
  • Knee: ACL Reconstruction
  • Respecting the Climbing Environment
  • Rest ... or Else
  • Rock Climbing Injury: Ankle: Loud Pop Ankle Roll
  • Rock Climbing Injury: Leg: Fracture
  • Rock Climbing Injury: Shoulder: SLAP Lesion and Cortisone
  • Rock Climbing Injury: Shoulder: Thoracic Outlet Syndrome
  • Rock Climbing Nutrition: Anti-inflammatory Foods vs NSAIDS
  • Rock Climbing Nutrition: Eating Your Way to Better Climbing
  • Rock Climbing Training: Beating the Lactic Acid Pump
  • Rock Climbing Training: Best Ratio of Resting to Bouldering
  • Rock Climbing Training: Boost Power With Eccentric Training
  • Rock Climbing Training: Can Old Guys Get Stronger?
  • Rock Climbing Training: Do Forearm Trainers Work?
  • Rock Climbing Training: Does Creatine Work?
  • Rock Climbing Training: Does Running or Biking Improve Your Climbing?
  • Rock Climbing Training: Dynamic vs. Static Stretching
  • Rock Climbing Training: Euro Training Secrets
  • Rock Climbing Training: Get Better When You Are Scared and Pumped
  • Rock Climbing Training: Getting Strong After a Layoff
  • Rock Climbing Training: How Often Should You Rest?
  • Rock Climbing Training: How to Beat Fear
  • Rock Climbing Training: How to Develop Sloper Strength
  • Rock Climbing Training: How to Mentally Train
  • Rock Climbing Training: How to Power Train for Climbing
  • Rock Climbing Training: How to Prevent Bonking
  • Rock Climbing Training: How To Recover On Route
  • Rock Climbing Training: How to Stay Psyched
  • Rock Climbing Training: How to Unlock a Crux
  • Rock Climbing Training: HowTo Use Microcycles
  • Rock Climbing Training: Improving Slab Technique
  • Rock Climbing Training: Is Protein Important?
  • Rock Climbing Training: Maximizing a Small Home Wall
  • Rock Climbing Training: Maximum Training in Minimum Time
  • Rock Climbing Training: Overcome Anxiety and Send!
  • Rock Climbing Training: Periodized Training For the Year-round Approach
  • Rock Climbing Training: Pushing Past Your Training Plateau
  • Rock Climbing Training: Recovery Supplement Truths
  • Rock Climbing Training: Regaining Confidence After a Fall
  • Rock Climbing Training: Resting the Perfect Amount
  • Rock Climbing Training: Should You Add Weight or Use Smaller Holds on a Hangboard
  • Rock Climbing Training: Should You Lose Weight or Get Stronger?
  • Rock Climbing Training: The Importance of Finger Strength
  • Rock Climbing Training: The Secrets of Warming Up
  • Rock Climbing Training: The Unnatural Way to Climb
  • Rock Climbing Training: Training During Pregnancy
  • Rock Climbing Training: Training While Hungry
  • Rock Climbing Training: Training With an Injury
  • Rock Climbing Training: Ultimate Strength
  • Rock Climbing Training: Using a Weight Belt For Training
  • Rock Climbing Training: Warming Up Without Warm-Ups
  • The Climbing Dictionary
  • The First Sport
  • The Intuitive Approach to Training
  • THE PERFECT 5-MINUTE WARM-UP FOR CLIMBERS
  • Training for Climbing: Injured? Train Your Core!
  • Understanding Climbing Ratings and Grades
  • Winter Workouts
  • Witness the Mental Fitness
  • Are Homemade Draws Reliable?
  • Avoiding Arthritis
  • Avoiding Injury
  • Climb Safe: Belaying Part 1
  • Climb Safe: Belaying Part 2
  • Climbing Anchor and Belay Stations
  • Climbing Photography How To
  • Free Climbing Tips: Why Get Stronger When You Can Get Better?
  • How to Belay for Climbing
  • How to Choose Climbing Equipment
  • How to Climb on Lead
  • How to Climb on Toprope
  • How to Rappel
  • How to Rig an Anchor for a Novice
  • How to Toprope
  • How to Train for Rock climbing
  • Respecting the Climbing Environment
  • Rest ... or Else
  • Rock Climbing Accident: Bolt Pulls Out in the New River Gorge
  • Rock Climbing Injury: Shoulder: SLAP Lesion and Cortisone
  • Rock Climbing Injury: Shoulder: Thoracic Outlet Syndrome
  • Rock Climbing Nutrition: Anti-inflammatory Foods vs NSAIDS
  • Rock Climbing Nutrition: Eating Your Way to Better Climbing
  • Rock Climbing Training: Avoiding the Gear-Placement Pump
  • Rock Climbing Training: Beating the Lactic Acid Pump
  • Rock Climbing Training: Best Ratio of Resting to Bouldering
  • Rock Climbing Training: Boost Power With Eccentric Training
  • Rock Climbing Training: Can Old Guys Get Stronger?
  • Rock Climbing Training: Do Forearm Trainers Work?
  • Rock Climbing Training: Does Creatine Work?
  • Rock Climbing Training: Does Running or Biking Improve Your Climbing?
  • Rock Climbing Training: Dynamic vs. Static Stretching
  • Rock Climbing Training: Euro Training Secrets
  • Rock Climbing Training: Gain Confidence by Learning Not to Fear Falling
  • Rock Climbing Training: Get Better When You Are Scared and Pumped
  • Rock Climbing Training: Getting Strong After a Layoff
  • Rock Climbing Training: How Often Should You Rest?
  • Rock Climbing Training: How to Beat Fear
  • Rock Climbing Training: How to Develop Sloper Strength
  • Rock Climbing Training: How to Mentally Train
  • Rock Climbing Training: How to Power Train for Climbing
  • Rock Climbing Training: How to Prevent Bonking
  • Rock Climbing Training: How To Recover On Route
  • Rock Climbing Training: How to Stay Psyched
  • Rock Climbing Training: How to Unlock a Crux
  • Rock Climbing Training: HowTo Use Microcycles
  • Rock Climbing Training: Improving Slab Technique
  • Rock Climbing Training: Is Protein Important?
  • Rock Climbing Training: Maximizing a Small Home Wall
  • Rock Climbing Training: Maximum Training in Minimum Time
  • Rock Climbing Training: Never Get Pumped Again
  • Rock Climbing Training: Overcome Anxiety and Send!
  • Rock Climbing Training: Periodized Training For the Year-round Approach
  • Rock Climbing Training: Pushing Past Your Training Plateau
  • Rock Climbing Training: Recovery Supplement Truths
  • Rock Climbing Training: Regaining Confidence After a Fall
  • Rock Climbing Training: Resting the Perfect Amount
  • Rock Climbing Training: Should You Add Weight or Use Smaller Holds on a Hangboard
  • Rock Climbing Training: Should You Lose Weight or Get Stronger?
  • Rock Climbing Training: The Importance of Finger Strength
  • Rock Climbing Training: The Secrets of Warming Up
  • Rock Climbing Training: The Unnatural Way to Climb
  • Rock Climbing Training: Tips for Better Onsighting
  • Rock Climbing Training: Training During Pregnancy
  • Rock Climbing Training: Training While Hungry
  • Rock Climbing Training: Training With an Injury
  • Rock Climbing Training: Ultimate Strength
  • Rock Climbing Training: Using a Weight Belt For Training
  • Rock Climbing Training: Warming Up Without Warm-Ups
  • The Climbing Dictionary
  • The First Sport
  • The Intuitive Approach to Training
  • THE PERFECT 5-MINUTE WARM-UP FOR CLIMBERS
  • Training for Climbing: Injured? Train Your Core!
  • Understanding Climbing Ratings and Grades
  • Winter Workouts
  • Witness the Mental Fitness
  •  
    Video Spotlight
    Humboldt State Climbing Team
    Humboldt State Climbing Team

    Knee: ACL Reconstruction

    24-Feb-2010
    By

    I am 16 weeks out from an ACL reconstruction and meniscus repair. I hurt my knee in March 2009 and had surgery in August. While I have managed to be patient, there are times when I get discouraged. I am pretty certain my surgeon doesn’t understand bouldering. When will it be safe to boulder? I have been toproping without any problems.

    Robyn Tesauro | RI Forum

    Unless your surgeon has landed from 15 feet up and missed the crash pad, she doesn’t understand bouldering. But I would bet my last dollar she gets it enough to know it’s not cool for you to start again too soon.

    Toproping is fine, but avoid difficult high steps and deep drop knees. You can lead in another month or two. You could lead now on easy, gently overhanging cliffs, but only if you are very comfortable letting go if you even vaguely feel like your knee is being compromised.

    Bouldering is fine as long as it’s in your dreams. At 20 weeks, your knee will hopefully be strong enough to handle it, but don’t bet on it. If you have pain-free motion, no swelling, can run and hop in all directions, have a great tan, and it doesn’t bother you while you’re working, playing or shagging, then you are certainly in the starting blocks. Try a gym with salubrious padding and spotters the size of Vikings. Landing on harder surfaces, like your typical crash pad, is not in the cards until your knee has its 40th birthday.

    Relax. You are on the way to finding the Nirvana equivalent of patience. Well done, and hang in there. Damaging your ACL is not like splitting your tip—“Oh, gosh darn. Now I’ll have to take a rest day.”

    No. More like a rest year.

    Take your time, rehabilitate thoroughly, and follow the advice of your P.T. There are definitive milestones that will tell you how your knee is doing. Eventually you will forget which one was injured.

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