• What I've Learned: Mark Udall
  • Reinhold Messner: What I've Learned
  • Listening for the Echo: The Klem Loskot Profile
  • Layton Kor Dies
  • Climbers We Lost In 2012
  • Life on Hold: The Ian Powell Story
  • Rope Jumping with Dan Osman
  • Mike Foley: Never Enough
  • Hayden Kennedy: Superballistic
  • Naomi Guy: What I've Learned
  • Dave Macleod: What I've Learned
  • Thomas Bubendorfer: Eiger Legend Back in the Game
  • Q&A: V15 Maestro Nacho Sanchez Unleashed
  • Francesca Metcalf: Meant to Compete
  • Maurice Herzog Dies
  • Kurt Albert: Free Wheel
  • Mason Earle: Crack Ropegun
  • Mayan Smith-Gobat: Climber for all Seasons
  • John Long: What I've Learned
  • Nik Berry: Obsessive Crusher
  • TNB: Tony Scott, Climber, Movie Maker, Lived and Died Large
  • Who's Next?
  • Todd Skinner: The Renegade
  • Tom Patey: The Tiger of Yesterday
  • Patxi Usobiaga: The Bionic Man
  • Michael Reardon
  • Max Turgeon and Louis-Philippe Ménard: Alpinists and Ice Climbers
  • Kurt Albert: The Climber Who Invented Redpointing
  • Josh Wharton: The Alpinist
  • John Rosholt: Climber and Gambler Disappears in Las Vegas
  • The Stonemasters Climb at Pirates Cove
  • John Bachar's Last Interview
  • John Bachar Remembers Michael Reardon
  • John Bachar by Henry Barber
  • John Bachar Remembered by Duane Raleigh
  • John Bachar by Doug Robinson
  • John Bachar and the Bachar-Yerian First Ascent
  • Colin Kirkus: Climbing's Greatest Unknown
  • Alex Puccio
  • John Long: A Man for All Seasons
  • Galen Rowell: The Vertical World
  • The Prophet
  • The Guy Whose Nuts Revolutionized Climbing: R.P.
  • Randy Leavitt
  • Brian Kim Spotlight
  • Rob Raker
  • Ueli Steck
  • Kemple and Lindner Almost Free El Nino
  • Crack Attack
  • Climbing World Mourns Todd Skinner
  • Ammon McKneely
  • A Tour of Magic and Mystery
  • Tanja Grmovsek
  • Rob Miller
  • Climber Hugh Herr Honored by Esquire Magazine
  • Climber Eric Brand Dies
  • Chuck Fryberger, Climber and Filmmaker
  • Chris Schulte Profile
  • Beth Rodden
  • Joe Kinder
  • Hazel Findlay
  • To the BASE Layer
  • Pete Ward
  • Mad Max
  • Chris Boskoff
  • Bradford Washburn
  • Revenge of the Nerd
  • Chris Lindner
  • Renan Ozturk
  • One-Track Mind
  • Tim Clifford: Escaping the Quantum Hole
  • Traveling Light
  • Colette McInerney
  • The Banner Years
  • Pakistan: The Big and Free
  • MAD DASH
  • Kris Hampton
  • KEEPING THE FAITH
  • Jules Cho
  • Extreme Eleven and Beyond
  • Bob Bates, 96, Takes His Final Journey
  • Jody Hansen
  • Home Girl
  • An Encounter with Fred
  • The Average Hero Sir Edmund Hillary, 88
  • More Than One Trick
  • Dave Graham
  • Red River Sugar Mama
  • Phillip Schaal
  • An Advanced Beginner
  • The Last Samurai:
  • THE BERMANATOR
  • Sonnie in Scotland
  • Offwidth Hombre
  • Moonlight Solo-Nata
  • Jasmin Caton
  • Crag Clown
  • Unlikely Candidate
  • Lone Star
  • The Calculator: Alex Kordick
  • Rise of the Machines
  • Dave Waggoner 1955-2009
  • Blood Spider
  • The Original Desert Rat: Kyle Copeland | 51
  • J-Star
  • Italian Legend: Lino lacedelli | 83
  • Cold Justice Paul Cormier
  • The Suffer King
  • The Need for Speed
  • Nick Martino Gives All
  • G-Money
  • Climbing Out of Academic Trouble
  • Charles Houston, 96
  • Bobby Model, 36
  • "Open Bivy" Willy
  • To the Rescue
  • The Genius
  • The Gamer
  • Shock Rock
  • Ryan Triplett | 31
  • John Bachar and the Cosmic Surfboard
  • Hand Crafted
  • Return of the Verm
  • Amped
  • Regime Change
  • Man vs. Snake
  • Living Legend
  • Layton Kor honored by AAC
  • Cold Justice
  • Cowboy Anguish
  • The Rock Jester
  • Mixed Rehab
  • Laura Fletcher
  • Bill Stall
  • Benjamin Strohmeier
  • Joe Six-Pack
  • Freedom Path
  • Manboy
  • Up and Down
  • The Duelist
  • A for Achiever
  • Paul A. Duval
  • Kelly S. Bell
  • Close But No Cigar
  •  
    Video Spotlight
    Create or Else: Chongo
    Create or Else: Chongo

    Mixed Rehab

    14-Dec-2009
    By

    Will Meinen took the dares and completed a ‘coming of age’ stunt at the Kicking Horse ski resort in Golden, B.C., that left his ankle in pieces. He returned home that weekend sporting a fashionable pink leg cast. Our big winter of hard ice routes was spoiled, or so we thought.

    A few weeks after Will’s failed stunt, I caught wind of some unclimbed mixed routes tucked up Evan Thomas Creek, just outside of Calgary, Alberta. I suggested to Will that we check them out. With his ankle still locked in a cast, Will figured that climbing and hiking would be the exact rehabilitation he needed to speed his recovery. He cut the cast off and we were gone.

    Evan Thomas Creek already housed great ice climbs such as Chantilly Falls (WI 2), Moonlight (WI 4) and Snowline (WI 4). The area has no avalanche danger, which is a treat here in the Rockies.

    After an hour and a half of hiking—post-holing through ice into the creek—we reached a picturesque wall, about 600 feet long and around 60 feet tall. We lit a fire to dry our socks, drank Whisk-tea (the whiskey/tea combo that warms the soul) and scoped the wall.

    Compared to such classic Rockies mixed crags as Hafner Creek, Bear Spirit and Stanley Headwall, this area was a pleasant change, offering unique horizontal bands of limestone that create perfect pick placements for tools.

    The next day we hiked back in and Will, favoring his busted foot, climbed Fun and Fitness, a thin WI 4 smear that widened near its top.  With a Hilti in tow, on lead, we established Yoga Monster and The Treatment, both rated M5 WI 4.

    The next day I climbed Acupuncture (M4 WI 4), a name birthed when the hot drill bit hanging on my harness burned through my jacket, fleece and baselayer, singeing my skin.

    All that remained was the plumb line of the crag. I threw “rock” and Will threw “paper,” and he took the sharp end for Physio-Therapy, a 150-foot pitch of excellent steep and juggy rock no harder than M8.

    I asked Will, now on the ground, “How you feeling?”  With a swollen foot and pumped forearms, Will replied, “Rehabilitated.” We therefore dubbed the crag: Rehab Wall.

    Only a 40-minute drive from Calgary, with easy access and nearly a dozen routes, including the ice climbs, the Rehab Wall offers great climbing on any given day.

    —Brandon Pullan

    ACCESS: Park at Evan Thomas Creek (signed) in Kananaskis Country off Hwy. 40, about 40 minutes west of Calgary, Alberta. Start hiking east up the trail and creek, and after about 40 minutes you’ll reach the Moonlight and Snowline ice routes. After 15 more minutes, the creek bottlenecks: take game trails up through the forest on the right side of the creek. Reach an open slope and regain the creek. Soon you’ll see the Rehab Wall.

    ROUTES: The Rehab Wall has eight climbs from M4 to M8, and WI 3 to WI 5. All the mixed routes are bolted.

    GEAR: A 60m rope; 14 quickdraws; 10 screws (at least one stubbie); rappel from fixed anchors or walk off.

    Reader's Commentary:

    Don't want to use Facebook, but still want to comment? We have you covered:

    Add Your Comments to this article:
    No items found.
    Hello