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Climb Safe: Common Belay Screw-ups and What To Do About Them
In 1980 my college roommate, Mark Herndon, fell 100 feet on a two-pitch route. I was belaying from a stance at the end of the first pitch, cooling my feet, shoes off. Mark had just cruised the second-pitch crux, a near-holdless paddle up granite glass, and was nearing the end of a 50-foot runout above the route’s only lead bolt when he slipped.
John Long: Legend of Lord Gym
Sammy and I hunkered into the shade beneath the Weeping Wall, Suicide Rock, panting between pulls on a gallon jug of water. The sun had just crawled over Tahquitz Rock, a mile across the Sunshine Valley, and heat waves welled off the Suicide slabs. No big.
Rock Climbing and Bouldering in Mongolia
Mongolia was everything he wanted, until something went wrong. Nathan Smith journeys to Mongolia in seek of first ascents on the crags and boulders there.
More Than One Trick
The kid who soloed BOHICA.
A Short Walk With Whillans
The Legendary British Climber on the Eiger.
Black Diamond Torque Glove Review
Close fitting and contoured into a semi-closed fist, the Torque latches onto your hand, doesn’t creep off even when you are hanging full bore from tool handles, and isn’t pumpy to close. It’s also simple, with no cumbersome cuff to interfere with your jacket or tool leash, if you still use those things.
Fingers: Torn A3 and A4 Pulleys
I was pulling on a small side pull in an open-handed grip with marginal feet and heard a loud pop. After that my left ring finger felt unsupported and I couldn't weight it. There was a dull ache between the middle and last joint of my finger, which has since subsided to a slight pain.
Beat the Burnout: Only Ondra Should Train Like Ondra
It’s tempting when we hear about Ondra to think that we’re not training enough, and to jack up the volume. Fact is, few people can cope with his absurd workload, and resting can do more good than adding to your training—a tenet that can be particularly frustrating for climbers with limited spare time.