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Climb Safe: Rethinking the Double-Loop Bowline
Pity the double-loop bowline—it’s getting worse press than Jacko. Two issues ago, we bagged on the knot because in 1989 Lynn Hill took a 70-foot groundfall when her partly tied bowline pulled free of her harness.
TNB: The Only Blasphemy
John Bachar laces up his boots and cinches the sling on his chalk bag. “Ready?” Only then do I realize he means to climb all two thousand feet solo, without a rope. To save face, I agree, thinking: Well, if he suggests something too crazy, I’ll just draw the line. I was the first to start soloing out at Josh anyhow.
First hemisphere-wide access meeting to be held at the Squamish Mountain Festival.
Kai Lightner Reflects on Competitions, Bouldering and the Future
Kai Lightner of Fayetteville, North Carolina, is one of America's most promising sport climbers. Eight-time youth national champion, the sixteen-year-old competed in his first adult national championship this year in Watertown, Massachusetts. He took first place as the competition's youngest athlete.
A Sport for All Ages
At this the most lovely old man got up at the furthest and humblest end of the hall, as he had got up on all similar occasions for the past half-century.
Petzl Sum'Tec Ice Axe Review
Field test of the Petzl Sum'Tec mountaineering ice axe.
Shoulder: Pain and Virus
I woke up after a couple of days of hard climbing with severe pain in both shoulders. It's mostly in the rear deltoids but radiates down my arm into the triceps. Coincidentally(?), I had a bad virus during the night.
How To Use Microcycles
Last winter I followed a basic periodized program. Now I want to take things further. I'm clear on the idea of breaking your training up into microcycles and prioritizing them toward either strength or endurance.