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Climb Safe: How to Belay, Part 1
No commitment—not even the one to your SO—is as binding as that of the belay. When you hold the rope, your partner’s life is in your hands. Screw up this marriage and you give new meaning to the vow “till death do us part.”
John Long: Guilty Pleasures
Lynn Hill and I spent the winter of 1981 in Las Vegas, climbing daily at Red Rocks and plowing through nights at dead-end jobs. After roughly 10 seasons of climbing 300 days a year, my learning curve had flattened and I found myself singing the same old song.
Flying Buttress (5.10)
Open wide: Big wall Pete Takeda dishes out his favorite 5.10 from Vedauwoo, Wyoming.
Correspondence with the controversial rock climbing soloist Michael Reardon, before his death when he was swept out to sea by a rouge wave in Ireland.
Bouldering in Hampi India
The luck of finding the perfect line leads to a fall from grace.
CAMP Stratos Harness
Nothing's more repulsive than back sweat, especially my own. Unfortunately, climbing in the summer inevitably means you will sweat like a pig in a monkey suit.
Fingers: Torn A3 and A4 Pulleys
I was pulling on a small side pull in an open-handed grip with marginal feet and heard a loud pop. After that my left ring finger felt unsupported and I couldn't weight it. There was a dull ache between the middle and last joint of my finger, which has since subsided to a slight pain.
Does Running or Biking Improve Your Climbing?
Specificity is the number-one training principle for climbing, and laps on routes will always produce more specific endurance gains for climbing than hitting the pavement.