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Climb Safe: Spectra versus Nylon
Britney or Christina, Frappuccino or half-caf vanilla latte, Maxim or FHM, trad or sport—our world is full of crucial, life-defining choices. Your sling choice, however, truly is life affecting. Read on to find out why.
John Long: The Royal Scam
Coming clean on the mysterious first ascent of a Yosemite classic.
Jah Man (5.10) Sister Superior
The mighty Jah Man checks in at a legit 5.10c. It’s not some super-hyper-sandbagged mid-range 5.11 masquerading as a 5.10+. Jah Man tackles Sister Superior’s sheer West Face via 250 steep feet of Wingate sweetness with exposed climbing, plus great gear and perfect belay ledges.
Paul A. Duval
Formerly of Watertown, Massachusetts, Paul Duval died on June 24 in a rappelling accident near Moonlight Ridge, Custer, South Dakota.
TNB: American Dirtbag
Where are all the dirtbags? I'm not talking about these imposter dirtbags, the new-age lurkers taking up all the parking spots at Camp 4, Indian Creek and Miguel's Pizza with their pimped-out, Direct TV-receiving Sprinter vans that look like college dorm rooms on 26s.
There are nearly 50 different belay devices on the market, and fewer than five qualify as “auto-locking.”
Over the last couple of weeks my left pinky finger has gone numb, and there's a spot on my left wrist (palm up, right side, where the hand begins and the bone sticks out a little) where even the softest tap provokes pain through the pinky and ring finger. I can move the pinky, but it's asleep 24/7.
Building a Better Climber: Phase 7 - Power Endurance Training
If you’ve stuck with the series so far, you ought to be feeling pretty fit by now, especially after the low-intensity endurance phase outlined last issue. If you’ve only just joined in, simply start with two weeks of low-intensity training, and then continue with the power-endurance training given below. As always, try to climb outside as much as possible and for best results, tie your crag sessions in with the program.