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Climb Safe: Rethinking the Double-Loop Bowline
Pity the double-loop bowline—it’s getting worse press than Jacko. Two issues ago, we bagged on the knot because in 1989 Lynn Hill took a 70-foot groundfall when her partly tied bowline pulled free of her harness.
John Long: Nothing but Rubble
The never-ending pursuit of new routes, fame and glory.
America's Best Climbing Area: Red River Gorge
It took the spotlight of the Petzl Roctrip to show what the locals already knew: The Red River Gorge is America's Best Climbing Area.
It's fall, but the Red River Gorge is so humid we're all looking for a break from the heat. The lights are finally set for a portrait I'm taking of a big name, 5.14-sending sponsored athlete, when over walks Nelson Carayannis, a climber of considerably less talent and strength. Carayannis, casually gripping a Gatorade bottle, asks if I'm ready.
A tricky crux, a surprise pop, a very fast 15-foot descent. I was delighted to find myself dangling from my beloved little blue Metolius. But when doing a quick body inventory, I noted that my left foot was attempting an inward 180. Suddenly, explosively, it hurt like hell. My partner Peter quickly lowered me, winced, and suggested we call an ambulance.
Black Diamond Momentum Speed Harness
This season, Black Diamond has introduced swami belts with compression-molded foam to their new harnesses.The design provides incredible support and comfort from the sacrum to the lower lumbar.
Knee: Chondral Injury of the Lateral Tibial Plateau
I jumped down from a boulder problem in the gym and felt a sharp pain in the middle of my right knee.
Climbing Literacy - Get Better Instantly by Reading Routes
When it comes to route reading, many climbers don’t. Instead, they simply leap on the rock and see what happens. Yet route reading is a crucial skill that has a powerful and direct effect on performance. Here's how to do it.