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Climb Safe: Common Belay Screw-ups and What To Do About Them
In 1980 my college roommate, Mark Herndon, fell 100 feet on a two-pitch route. I was belaying from a stance at the end of the first pitch, cooling my feet, shoes off. Mark had just cruised the second-pitch crux, a near-holdless paddle up granite glass, and was nearing the end of a 50-foot runout above the route’s only lead bolt when he slipped.
John Long: The Only Rule That Counts
The greatest riches lie at the end of your dreams
What do sitting through an ice comp and a recital of Bach's Brandenburg concertos have in common? A: They seem brilliant after the fact, but during them you have to mainline espresso beans to stay propped upright.
Dave Waggoner 1955-2009
Dave Waggoner, a mountaineering warrior and the inventor of Alien cams, died of cancer on October 7, at age 53, in his home in Laramie, Wyoming.
TNB: American Dirtbag
Where are all the dirtbags? I'm not talking about these imposter dirtbags, the new-age lurkers taking up all the parking spots at Camp 4, Indian Creek and Miguel's Pizza with their pimped-out, Direct TV-receiving Sprinter vans that look like college dorm rooms on 26s.
Arc'teryx Aperture Chalk Bag Review
Field test review of the no-leak chalkbag, the Arc'teryx Aperture.
Biceps: Partial Dislocation
I have had a subluxation (partial dislocation) of the biceps tendon manually relocated, but it doesn't stay there. The original injury occurred when performing a mantel. It's been two months now, but no healing progress.
How to Mentally Train
I know that mental-preparation routines can be hugely beneficial for climbers, but the books never tell you how to fit these in when you're hanging out with your buddies. What routines do you recommend and how can you do these before a climb without looking like a geek?