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Climb Safe: How to Belay, Part 1
No commitment—not even the one to your SO—is as binding as that of the belay. When you hold the rope, your partner’s life is in your hands. Screw up this marriage and you give new meaning to the vow “till death do us part.”
John Long: The Real Deal
The tao of Paul gleason, Stonemaster Emeritus.
TRAD-MIXED LIVES FREE
New England’s Meanest Winter Streak
Rope Jumping with Dan Osman
Three weeks ago, on February 11, Dan Osman would have turned 50. He died 15 years ago this year. A friend remembers adventures in bridge jumping with this climber and rope jumper who went bigger and bigger.
TNB: American Dirtbag
Where are all the dirtbags? I'm not talking about these imposter dirtbags, the new-age lurkers taking up all the parking spots at Camp 4, Indian Creek and Miguel's Pizza with their pimped-out, Direct TV-receiving Sprinter vans that look like college dorm rooms on 26s.
There are nearly 50 different belay devices on the market, and fewer than five qualify as “auto-locking.”
Biceps: Partial Dislocation
I have had a subluxation (partial dislocation) of the biceps tendon manually relocated, but it doesn't stay there. The original injury occurred when performing a mantel. It's been two months now, but no healing progress.
How To Use Microcycles
Last winter I followed a basic periodized program. Now I want to take things further. I'm clear on the idea of breaking your training up into microcycles and prioritizing them toward either strength or endurance.
How do I Make a Bomber Anchor?
I work at a camp center in the Alps in France and we teach beginner climbers on one of the building's concrete walls. Until now we've used the iron beams as anchors (using a redundant sling set-up) for toproping, which is safe and works well, but it takes 40 minutes to rig.